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454Prostar190
05-01-2008, 02:25 PM
I am going to replace the propeller shaft on my '82 S & S due to a slight bump last trip out. I found a new shaft at Skidim and need to give them an actual length to place the order. So, this weekend I will be removing the old shaft. Is there anything that I need to know or any little tricks that anyone can share with me as to this task? I have never done this before but, know that I am capable. The old shaft runs true to the strut and then I have a total of 1/4" to 1/2" wobble behind the strut at the propeller end of the shaft that is visible. I get a vibration at about 3000 rpm. Can a shaft be straightened or should I just buy a new shaft and be done? Any upgrades that can be done? Thanks, Rick

CPlane Pilot
05-01-2008, 03:03 PM
Easy enough to remove. 1. Remove prop. 2. Unbolt shaft coupling from transmission flange. 3. Remove coupling from shaft. 4. Slide shaft from the outside of the boat through the strut. A good machine shop should be able to straighten the shaft, saving you some money over a new shaft.

454Prostar190
05-01-2008, 04:16 PM
Easy enough to remove. 1. Remove prop. 2. Unbolt shaft coupling from transmission flange. 3. Remove coupling from shaft. 4. Slide shaft from the outside of the boat through the strut. A good machine shop should be able to straighten the shaft, saving you some money over a new shaft.

Thanks CPlane, do I need to buy a prop puller? Rick

CPlane Pilot
05-01-2008, 05:02 PM
Rick, sometimes you can get away without one. It all depends on how stuck it is. Penetrating oil (PB Blaster and the like) and/or heat may due the trick. If you do need one, I have used the harmonic prop knocker type (I know that skidim.com has them) and was amazed at how well it worked. Cheaper the the other type too.

jrhollow
05-01-2008, 06:52 PM
I pulled the shaft out of my boat (V-Drive) and had to use a shaft puller. No way could I have gotten it out without it....

88 PS190
05-01-2008, 07:32 PM
Some tricks.

1. when pulling off a prop loosen the nut, but leave it on the shaft. This is a keyed taper shaft, so the prop is essentially squeezing on that taper. If you can, place a block of wood against the hub of the prop and give it a wang with a rubber mallet. It will hopefully pop.

2. remove prop set aside, loosen packing nut and remove, you'll want to repack that, if you wish to have a dripless packing nut (OJ or PSS) this is the time to purchase it as well.

3. Coupling unbolted, you will see inside the coupling there is a nut, this must be unscrewed which can be tricky, its fairly easy to build a tool to help consisting of a peice of bar with holes drilled in it spaced to pick up the spacing of the shaft coupler, bolt the coupler to this tool. put penetrant on shaft nut, allow to soak (this step out of order I guess) then remove that bolt. To get the coupler off can be tricky, there are tools for it. Find a socket that fit between the transmission and shaft coupler and was smaller in diameter than the shaft, placed it in place and drew the flanges together with 4 bolts till there was some tension on the socket pushing out on the shaft. Give the coupling a hit on the side with a mallet and hope it releases from the shaft. Its a good idea to keep the shaft from squirting out and causing miscellanious damage a buddy holding it would do this, you just don't want that heavy lever messing around with anything, the strut should hold it pretty well though. Slide it out.

Good time to inspect the bushings in the strut.

Be careful not to warp those couplings by overdoing it on the bolt tension, application of heat/penetrating fluid should ease the amount of effort to get a release..

CPlane Pilot
05-01-2008, 08:53 PM
88 PS190, Your a good guy for providing a full explaination. I need to remember to be less terse and more helpful in my responses.

To expand on removing the coupling from the shaft once the nut has been removed. I had one once that seemed welded on. Tried all the tricks I could think of without using special tools. No go. I thought out of curiosity if the little harmonic prop knocker would pop the prop, would the vibration or harmonics have any effect on the coupling. Screwed the knocker on the prop end of the shaft after the prop was removed, held the shaft by hand to keep it from moving, and gave the knocker a rap. Once I did I heard the coupling pop loose. Not sure if this was a freak happen stance or not, as I have not had to remove another one. But I would certainly try it again if I had a similar situation.

454Prostar190
05-02-2008, 12:07 PM
Thanks to EVERYONE! :) I'm going to print this "Instruction Manual" and will let you know how it goes! Rick

88 PS190
05-02-2008, 06:13 PM
88 PS190, Your a good guy for providing a full explaination.

The quality of my responses vary directly with how busy I am,

In this case I was busy all day studying, and so provided many helpful responses.

flipper
05-02-2008, 06:23 PM
PM at ya.....

454Prostar190
05-06-2008, 02:06 PM
Well, I got everything ready, have attempted to remove the shaft and have run into a bit of a problem. Because the boat has a big block Chevy with a slot, it is longer than the 351 Ford assembly. The coupler is tight to the packing nut assembly (1/16" or less) and there is absolutely no prop shaft exposed to slide aft to access the inside of the coupler. My conclusion so far, is that the engine has to come up or out to access the inside of the coupler. Rick

Sodar
05-06-2008, 02:31 PM
By the looks of it, your conclusion seems about right. With that set up, seems like the chore of changing the shaft packing would be a lot tougher! Might want to throw on a dripless shaft seal when all this is done.

flipper
05-06-2008, 02:38 PM
That is a tight fit. Is there room to undo the motor mounts, and slide the engine foward enough?

454Prostar190
05-06-2008, 03:56 PM
That is a tight fit. Is there room to undo the motor mounts, and slide the engine foward enough?

It doesn't look like the engine will go forward enough. I think that what needs to happen is the engine needs to go straight up. I still have a question about the length of the shaft and if it is an oddball length. I won't know until I get it out.. or have someone else get it out:(. I wonder if they'll polish my chrome oil pan while it's up?:rolleyes: :D

Sodar
05-06-2008, 04:02 PM
Yank the motor, clean up the bilge and gelcoat it white, do chrome accessories on the motor and polish the b*tchin' aluminum exhaust logs up and put it back together! It will keep you busy while they straighten your prop shaft out.

flipper
05-06-2008, 04:04 PM
It doesn't look like the engine will go forward enough. I think that what needs to happen is the engine needs to go straight up. I still have a question about the length of the shaft and if it is an oddball length. I won't know until I get it out.. or have someone else get it out:(. I wonder if they'll polish my chrome oil pan while it's up?:rolleyes: :D

I have the stuff to lift it if you want to come down....infact I can use the overhead hoist here at work in Santa Clara. You have to do the polishing though:D

454Prostar190
05-06-2008, 04:19 PM
That's a great plan, Cameron! I'll make it happen! Thanks! Rick

454Prostar190
05-06-2008, 04:47 PM
I have the stuff to lift it if you want to come down....infact I can use the overhead hoist here at work in Santa Clara. You have to do the polishing though:D

Flipper, That's a great idea! I'll be in touch! I'm going to call Nor Cal MasterCraft in Pleasanton and see what I can get there and will get back to you! Thanks! Rick

flipper
05-06-2008, 04:51 PM
Flipper, That's a great idea! I'll be in touch! I'm going to call Nor Cal MasterCraft in Pleasanton and see what I can get there and will get back to you! Thanks! Rick
Sounds good, give me a call when you're ready.

454Prostar190
05-08-2008, 03:13 PM
Ok, here's the deal. If I want to get the boat ready by Memorial Day weekend, I'll have to take time off from work as I've been working every Saturday for months. So, I had a weak moment and called Nor Cal MasterCraft in Pleasanton and explained the situation that I have. They told me that the prop shaft is a different length with the 454/slot than the standard S & S 351 and they can get it. I'll have the strut bushing and a dripless shaft seal installed and be done. The other thing that I want to do is have my prop trued as it is also an oddball OJ 15 20CUP and cannot find a listing for this. I'll let you know how things go! Thanks everyone and Flipper you're offer was above and beyond! Rick

454Prostar190
05-27-2008, 02:35 PM
I picked my boat up at Nor Cal MasterCraft on Friday on the way to our annual camping trip at the Sacramento River Delta. They replaced the prop shaft, strut with a new strut bushing and had to lift the engine to get it all apart. They charged me $375.00 for labor and had it ready for my trip. The boat runs as good as it has ever run and I feel that that was a well spent $375.00 plus parts of course!

peason
05-27-2008, 02:40 PM
That sounds like a good deal to me, considering all of the circumstances. Glad to hear in your other post that you had a great weekend despite the weather. Our weather in Minnesota is not cooperating at all. Too cool and too much wind.