PDA

View Full Version : Sodar's Trailer Refurb


Sodar
01-19-2006, 11:49 AM
It's time to get the trailer some help! I was fortunate enough to borrow a 21' Schiada V-drive trailer to put it on. The only problem now is that I am juggling two trailers to find parking for them! So far though, I have gotten a new prop guard w/ rollers, I got the disc brakes brackets installed, I got the fenders color-sanded and re-gelled white, I got a quote to get the trailer sandblasted for $200 and a quote from Macco and Earl Shieb for ~$300... does anyone have a preference between the two painters??

Just thought I would add a pic of a PS190 on a triple axle trailer... I am sure there are not many rigs like this floating around!

Sodar
01-22-2006, 12:57 PM
I worked on the trailer yesterday. I cut off the winch post and mounted the new winch directly to the upright, I cut off the bottom peice of the prop guard because it was ground down from my driveway and I got the whole thing stripped down and ready to go to the welder. When it is at the welder, he is going to install a new bottom peice on the prop guard w/ 2 rollers and a new swing away tongue. Here are a few pictures.

34274

34275

34276

34277

Sodar
01-22-2006, 01:00 PM
Here is a pic of the swing away toungue I just went and picked up from Extreme Trailers...

34279

1984StarsandStripes
01-26-2006, 09:19 AM
On my Last Trailer project I went to the nearby TSC (Tractor Supply Company) and bought a gallon of Tractor/Implement Paint, this stuff is tough!!! We used this on the frame of our old race and this stuff takes a licking and keeps on ticking!! :D I would recommend this stuff to anyone as long as you can fine a suitable color. It is oil based and is very smooth when it flows out. I applied it using a brush.

jake
01-26-2006, 09:59 AM
I cut off the winch post and mounted the new winch directly to the upright.

SodarSki...just curious. Why did you decide to mount it directly to the upright rather than the existing winch post?

Sodar
01-28-2006, 05:00 PM
SodarSki...just curious. Why did you decide to mount it directly to the upright rather than the existing winch post?

Just for looks... I have been noticing that all the custom trailer builders try to shave anything that is not neccessary, so I decided to start with the winch post. I just got the swing away toungue, prop guard and tounge jack bracket welded onto the trailer. I will get some pics when I get it back from the sand blaster. It is really starting to come together... can't wait for summmer!

Sodar
02-20-2006, 11:54 PM
I got my trailer back from the sandblasted finally, so i worked on it a little by filling the welds and a few other rough spots. I was suprised though, the metal is still in great shape!

Sodar
02-20-2006, 11:57 PM
Here is a picture of my new prop guard and rollers...

34281

34282

Sodar
02-20-2006, 11:59 PM
And my new swing-away tongue by Pivit-Hitch

34283

34284

east tx skier
02-21-2006, 10:20 AM
Looks great, Cameron! I like the rollers, too!

planoboy
02-23-2006, 03:43 PM
Ski73, Looking very good. I like. The pix are appreciated.
Noticed the new actuator assy. Do you have a flexible connection for the brake line to accomodate the swing-away?
Great price on atwood 10" brakes at boatfix.com if you need'm.
~$100 / axle. can not beat that. I paid 1/2 that for just the wheel cylinders.
http://www.boatfix.com/bykeywordnew2.asp?textfield=atw85735&texttype=2
R/Plano

Sodar
02-23-2006, 03:47 PM
Ski73, Looking very good. I like. The pix are appreciated.
Noticed the new actuator assy. Do you have a flexible connection for the brake line to accomodate the swing-away?
Great price on atwood 10" brakes at boatfix.com if you need'm.
~$100 / axle. can not beat that. I paid 1/2 that for just the wheel cylinders.
http://www.boatfix.com/bykeywordnew2.asp?textfield=atw85735&texttype=2
R/Plano

Thanks Plano! For my brakes I went strictly with UFP. They are located about an hour south of me and hooked me up with their latest disc brake creation. It was about 5 times as much as yours, but I did not need to change my actuator tube or my hard lines to accomodate the new set up. UFP is the manufacturer of my OEM drums, so it was an easy conversion.

Edit: Yes, you do use a flexible line from the actuator to the hardline of the trailer

Sodar
03-06-2006, 01:45 PM
Ok, So I finally finished the trailer this weekend. Here are a few pics of what I have done. Unfortunately it is drizzling outside, so I had to take them while the boat was in the garage, so they are a little tight. No need to worry though, the boat leaves on Wednesday for Spring Break, so I will have plenty of pictures of the boat and other "stuff" on the river!! HA HA!!!

Sodar
03-06-2006, 01:46 PM
Here is a picture of the rear with the LED's and new prop guard rollers as wll as retractable tiedowns

Sodar
03-06-2006, 01:48 PM
Here is a picture of my repaired, wetsanded, painted and rewetsanded fenders! I cursed at MC the whole time for these things... they accounted for 1/3 of my ENTIRE budget!! My next trailer will be an Extreme with Stainless Fenders!

34286

34287

Sodar
03-06-2006, 01:50 PM
Here is the pic of my new swing away tongue, jack, winch w/o winch post, and Jet Connex cord (this things is cool!).

Sodar
03-06-2006, 01:51 PM
And my final picture of my Pivit Hitch swung open...

jeverett
03-06-2006, 03:08 PM
Ski73:

Where did you get the swing away tongue or did you have someone make it for you?

Sodar
03-06-2006, 03:12 PM
I got it from Extreme Custom Trailers/Pivit Hitch. The whole kit is $349. There is a bolt-on kit and a weld on, which is what I have. Their website is pivithitch.com. If you get one, ask for Dave Rogan and he will set you up with everything needed.

jeverett
03-06-2006, 03:14 PM
I got it from Extreme Custom Trailers/Pivit Hitch. The whole kit is $349. There is a bolt-on kit and a weld on, which is what I have. Their website is pivithitch.com. If you get one, ask for Dave Rogan and he will set you up with everything needed.


Thanks man I think that I am going to do that. Did you put your boat in the water while you did your referb or did you put it on a dolly?

Sodar
03-06-2006, 03:20 PM
Thanks man I think that I am going to do that. Did you put your boat in the water while you did your referb or did you put it on a dolly?
I put it on my buddy's old Schiada trailer for 6 weeks while I took care of redoing my trailer.

redmike
03-06-2006, 04:34 PM
really nice job on the trailer! gives me some good Ideas when I have to do mine.....sorry if I missed reading it, but did you powder coat, or paint the trailer?

Sodar
03-06-2006, 07:22 PM
I am not exactly sure what type of paint it is, but I do know that it is a two-part with a hardner. The painter used filler primer twice, so the paint is nice and smooth.

atlfootr
03-18-2006, 10:27 PM
Thx Man.
have not counted up how much time/money, but appx $500 and 50 hrs ?
worth it, tho.Where do I sign up?
Just tell me your address and I'm on my way!
I'll even give you FREE BAREFOOT PULLS :D

Sodar
03-18-2006, 10:55 PM
$500!!!!!!!!!!! That is one he!! of a deal!!!

atlfootr
03-18-2006, 11:00 PM
$500!!!!!!!!!!! That is one he!! of a deal!!!No kidd'n ... why do you think I wantta sign up. :uglyhamme

Sodar
03-18-2006, 11:04 PM
I have more than that wrapped up in my stupid fenders!!!

atlfootr
03-18-2006, 11:12 PM
More than that wrapped up in stupid fenders!!!
How so?

Sodar
03-18-2006, 11:17 PM
Some a$$hole hit my fender in the launch ramp parking lot. Of course he did not leave a note or anything. So it cost me about $500 to get the fender repaired and both painted. I don't know if anyone else has had problems with spidercracks in their fenders, but mine had TONS. Needless to say since I had them fixed there is now a nice decal stating "Not a Step!"

atlfootr
03-18-2006, 11:26 PM
how many axles is your trailer?

Sodar
03-18-2006, 11:41 PM
Its a Tandem Axle. The pics are above on this thread.

planoboy
03-21-2006, 11:25 PM
WoW, ski73. that's bad a$$. Looks fantastic and ready for action. Looks better'n new. Outstanding!

Regarding my est of $500, Was'nt countin, but since yall bring it up...all figures appx... 150 wheel/tire, 100 bunks (carpet and 2Xs), 100 brake wheel cylinders (4X), 100 rollers and pins, 150 brake acutator, dam that's 6 hunkski there, plus another hunski on paint, plus misc, looks more like $750 plus all the time/effort/lovin put in.

Pride in ownership = Priceless. Again, congrats on finishing the project. Park out a ways to avoid the fender bangers!

Sodar
03-21-2006, 11:35 PM
Hey, thanks for the nice words! I am so glad to have this project done, it was such a pain in the butt. It took me twice the time I wanted it to and I was in a mad scramble to get the boat back on the trailer so I could use it for Spring Break. I have just started a new project of making removable mudflaps attached to my trailer hitch, to avoid rock chips. I have only towed the trailer about 600 miles since it was finished and i have already found 3 chips! :(

SKI*MC
03-21-2006, 11:36 PM
I know how you feel, i recently redid my trailer too. Every little chip you notice now!

Farmer Ted
05-27-2006, 01:39 PM
.................................................. ...........

jakethebt
05-27-2012, 12:03 PM
Any idea where I get prop guard rollers like this?

MikeyOrange88
09-28-2012, 10:59 PM
Here is the pic of my new swing away tongue, jack, winch w/o winch post, and Jet Connex cord (this things is cool!).

Big Bump to this thread.....
Sodar - Just had one question regarding the mounting of the winch. Is the winch bolted all the way through the 3x2 tube? I was reading the box on a new one and it seems to mention counter sunk bolts and a plate. I'm still sporting the "bar", but we're getting pretty tired of it so will probably be converting to the Boat Buddy over the winter and will have to fabricate a winch post. I don't even have a winch on the trailer now as it was useless before ('88 Tristar w/ channel frame trailer) and had to remove it when I modified the trailer some five or six years ago for the pivot hitch. I have the same photo of my trailer/boat just clearing the garage door. I had to take off the lower horiz. brace on the door. I have about a 1/2" clearance with the boat/trailer touching the wall.

Thanks for any help. Read alot of the threads on the trailer refurb.

Sodar
09-29-2012, 08:34 AM
The winch post is boxed, so I drilled all the way through the box. I tapped the side with the winch and and drilled out the back side to allow for nuts, washers and a socket wrench to fit inside the box. Once everything was installed, I put plugs (http://www.mcmaster.com/#snap-in-plugs/=ji2s9k) in the holes for a clean look.

Sodar
09-29-2012, 08:38 AM
Sorry for the delay!

http://www.etrailer.com/Motorhome-Accessories/Ultra-Fab-Products/UF48-979021.html

MikeyOrange88
09-29-2012, 10:47 AM
The winch post is boxed, so I drilled all the way through the box. I tapped the side with the winch and and drilled out the back side to allow for nuts, washers and a socket wrench to fit inside the box. Once everything was installed, I put plugs (http://www.mcmaster.com/#snap-in-plugs/=ji2s9k) in the holes for a clean look.

Perfect, Thanks for the quick response. I thought about drilling and tapping just the mounting face side of the steel tube, just not sure if that would provide enough threads long term. Like your idea though, it's either that or thru-bolt and maybe some stainless cap nuts. I need to mount the winch like yours probably just so it doesn't interfere with the garage door clearance as it cannot project any farther forward than the bow of the boat. Thanks.

Grover777
10-09-2012, 10:55 AM
Cameron:

Getting my trailer blasted and painted this weekend. I need to take bunks, boat guides, lights, fenders off before I take it to the shop. Any words of wisdom when taking this stuff off?

How do you get the reflectors off? Drill out the rivets? Do did you fill the rivet holes or can they be re-used?

Thanks!

D.

Sodar
10-09-2012, 11:13 AM
Bunks are always a fun one. The carriage bolts are sometimes tough to get out. I ended up having to grind mine.

Reflectors were drilled. I then replaced with adhesive circle reflectors to cover the holes. Send me your address... I have like 30 extra. Tell me how many you need of red and amber.

Pony up and do LED's, too. Make this thing as pimpin' as the cart! :) Good luck and let me know if you need anything!

Ski-me
10-09-2012, 12:43 PM
Cameron:

Getting my trailer blasted and painted this weekend. I need to take bunks, boat guides, lights, fenders off before I take it to the shop. Any words of wisdom when taking this stuff off?

How do you get the reflectors off? Drill out the rivets? Do did you fill the rivet holes or can they be re-used?

Thanks!

D.

Are you powdercoating or just painting? I had to remove the trailer brake lines, wires and also the actuator in the tongue. That will keep your cost down so the blaster doesn't charge you extra labor to remove that stuff.

What is your expected cost to sandblast and paint (powerdercoat??)?

Grover777
10-09-2012, 04:06 PM
Cam:

Thanks! Will let you know about the reflectors. Where did you get new MC decals for the trailer? I will do LED etc...should be fun.

Jeff:

No powdercoating, just paint.

prostar205er
08-21-2013, 10:30 AM
Hey, I need to replace my jack on a '94 MC trailer. It has a mount welded on the trailer like yours so I was curious which jack you found that fits it. My original Atwood jack is no longer made so I need to find a replacement. Thanks

Ski-me
08-21-2013, 10:42 AM
Hey, I need to replace my jack on a '94 MC trailer. It has a mount welded on the trailer like yours so I was curious which jack you found that fits it. My original Atwood jack is no longer made so I need to find a replacement. Thanks

Crazy, I'm just going through the process today!

I picked up the Fulton single wheel jack with a weld on plate. Once I got the plate and compared it with my 94' jack bolt holes, there just isn't enough metal to tap for the trailer and then mount the new jack. I am bringing the trailer over in a few hours to a welding shop and have him cut off the old bracket and weld on the new one. It just won't "bolt up" to the existing one. I've heard about $40 to get it welded so we'll see what my welder says.....

NWMike
08-22-2013, 01:54 AM
I just did my '93 trailer and drilled 4 half inch holes in a metal plate that sit right over the oem mounting tabs on the trailer and plug welded it. No need to lose the tabs or cut anything off. The original tabs actually look like factory stand offs when it's all done and it provides great clearance to swing the wheel up

gotjag941
08-22-2013, 08:29 AM
Hey, I need to replace my jack on a '94 MC trailer. It has a mount welded on the trailer like yours so I was curious which jack you found that fits it. My original Atwood jack is no longer made so I need to find a replacement. Thanks

Boatmate sells an adaptor plate to make the f2 work on the original welded on mounting location

http://www.boatmateparts.com/products.php?catId=9&PHPSESSID=b23e79c0a364573e171d00af2c45c7bb

prostar205er
08-22-2013, 11:15 AM
Boatmate sells an adaptor plate to make the f2 work on the original welded on mounting location

http://www.boatmateparts.com/products.php?catId=9&PHPSESSID=b23e79c0a364573e171d00af2c45c7bb
Thanks for the tip. Would be great to get a new plate welded on there but realistically, this might be the answer.

CantRepeat
08-22-2013, 11:59 AM
I just did my '93 trailer and drilled 4 half inch holes in a metal plate that sit right over the oem mounting tabs on the trailer and plug welded it. No need to lose the tabs or cut anything off. The original tabs actually look like factory stand offs when it's all done and it provides great clearance to swing the wheel up

I'm not trying to be a butthead here, but those plug welds don't look too good. I would think if you were going to plug weld like this you weld up the entire plug and make sure you get good penetration on both parts. The lap weld on the back seems to be sitting on top of the metal with very little penetration as well. Was this done with flux core wire or shielded gas?

rjracin240
08-22-2013, 12:00 PM
I got my trailer back from the sandblasted finally, so i worked on it a little by filling the welds and a few other rough spots. I was suprised though, the metal is still in great shape!

With a first aid kit that large over your left shoulder would think your set for open heart surgery!

Just kidding nice job so far

CantRepeat
08-22-2013, 12:10 PM
With a first aid kit that large over your left shoulder would think your set for open heart surgery!

Just kidding nice job so far


I'm pretty sure this was completed before Sodar purchased his 07 so it's been done for a long time now.

prostar205er
08-22-2013, 12:11 PM
I just did my '93 trailer and drilled 4 half inch holes in a metal plate that sit right over the oem mounting tabs on the trailer and plug welded it. No need to lose the tabs or cut anything off. The original tabs actually look like factory stand offs when it's all done and it provides great clearance to swing the wheel up
Just curious...which Fulton model is that? How have you liked it? I've read mixed reviews on the F2 (two-wheel version) but yours looks like it would do the trick.

Sodar
08-22-2013, 01:22 PM
Over 7 years ago... time flies!!

JohnE
08-22-2013, 02:30 PM
And I thought the "no step" policy was much newer than it is. I can't believe how long it's been since you bought the 197. Feels like yesterday.

Ski-me
08-22-2013, 04:00 PM
Just got the trailer back with the plate now welded. Because the "weld on" plate was cast, the guy pre-heated the plate before welding to the frame. He also staggered it just a bit so he would be welding on top of an old weld. Looks pretty good!:cool:

Sodar
08-22-2013, 04:10 PM
And I thought the "no step" policy was much newer than it is. I can't believe how long it's been since you bought the 197. Feels like yesterday.

LOL! :)

NWMike
08-27-2013, 05:48 PM
I'm not trying to be a butthead here, but those plug welds don't look too good. I would think if you were going to plug weld like this you weld up the entire plug and make sure you get good penetration on both parts. The lap weld on the back seems to be sitting on top of the metal with very little penetration as well. Was this done with flux core wire or shielded gas?

Yea, I should have gone hotter but there is so little stress on this joint considering the # of weld points. It's not going anywhere. If it was structural whole different deal.

I just picked up a $40 jack on eBay. I think it is a 1000# rating. The original one I think was 750#?