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BrianM
04-23-2008, 12:23 PM
This turned into a bigger project than I was expecting. I decided not to take the trailer to be sand blasted and painted due to cost and lead time. Overall the main frame rails on the trailer look good but the prop gaurd and cross members had rusty spots at all of the low point. Also the brackets that hold the bunk boards were getting rusty. Needed new bunk carpet too. So since I do not pull the trailer many miles I decided to go ahead and do the bad areas myself. Grind off the rust, sand, prime and paint with Rustoleum. When the prep is done right the finish actually holds up really well. So here is a couple of interim pics.

BrianM
04-23-2008, 12:25 PM
And the back which was in the worst shape.

loeweb
04-23-2008, 12:25 PM
Looks like a good start

east tx skier
04-23-2008, 12:26 PM
Good work.

By the way, watch that v-block. When that composite stuff goes, and only the carpet is holding it, it can make some nasty gougest in the gel coat.

BrianM
04-23-2008, 12:28 PM
Good work.

By the way, watch that v-block. When that composite stuff goes, and only the carpet is holding it, it can make some nasty gougest in the gel coat.

Haven't taken it apart yet but I am going to recarpet and check integrity when I do the bunk boards.

BrianM
04-23-2008, 12:29 PM
Does anyone know how to get the roller off? I can't figure it out. Just has what looks like two end caps on each end of the shaft.

Sodar
04-23-2008, 12:33 PM
The roller is put on by push nuts. My push nuts were corroded on , so after messing with the for a long while, I just to a grinder took it and ended its misery. On the re-install, I got a peice of threaded stainless rod cut to length and used that with 2-stainless cap nuts... ended up looking very clean!

Good Luck!

flipper
04-23-2008, 12:33 PM
Looks like you're well on your way.....looks good

aremsing
04-23-2008, 12:36 PM
looks like a nice start. Anyone know where you can get replacement MC logo stickers for the rear?

bbeach
04-23-2008, 12:41 PM
I had a guy at my office make me new stickers. I can get you in touch with him you'd like.
http://greyststudio.com/7.jpg

east tx skier
04-23-2008, 01:10 PM
Does anyone know how to get the roller off? I can't figure it out. Just has what looks like two end caps on each end of the shaft.

Hang on to the axle for that roller. Whatever I was sent with my replacement was too short.

aremsing
04-23-2008, 01:30 PM
Those are nice. I'd like those and I'm looking for the step side stickers too. The grippy type?

mbtka
04-24-2008, 01:20 AM
Have you tried the dealer?

BrianM
04-28-2008, 12:36 PM
Here is mid way photo.

BrianM
04-28-2008, 12:38 PM
And the final product. New carpet on the bunks and I also used some of the Rustoleum silver hammerd finished paint in the areas that are most prone to rust. That paint brushes on thick and is some seriously tough stuff. I had used it on my prop guard on my '88 trailer. It was super durable.

BrianM
04-28-2008, 12:41 PM
And one more from the rear. I used Rustoleum primer and then two coats of their white Industrial Enamel. I was not happy with the color match of the white so I did a final two topcoats of Benjamin Moore Metal Enamel (spray cans) in Linen White. The color match was nearly perfect.

beatle78
04-28-2008, 01:57 PM
Brian, that looks GREAT!!!

I have to do the same to my '01 205V trailer.

Did you take the trailer down to the metal? How did you remove the rust spots? I have some HEAVY raised rust coming through all over mine.

BrianM
04-28-2008, 02:14 PM
Brian, that looks GREAT!!!

I have to do the same to my '01 205V trailer.

Did you take the trailer down to the metal? How did you remove the rust spots? I have some HEAVY raised rust coming through all over mine.
I had some very heavy rust spots as well. Everything that was rusty I took down to bare metal with a 40 grit sand paper on my orbital. I then feathered the sanding a bit with finer paper and just roughed up the paint that was still in good shape. Again this is not completely perfect. If you get up close you can see where some of the bad spots were. But I removed all of the rust and have everything coated and protected as good as possible to prevent further rusting as much as possible,

One of the problems I have is that my trailer gets wet and then stays wet. I pull it out of the water and 50 ft to the garage. I don't get to blow dry the bunks and frame on the highway. So during the summer the carpet stays wet constantly. I wipe down all of the rails but it still stays a bit damp.

shepherd
04-29-2008, 12:24 PM
Looks great Brian. Good job.

kjohnson
04-29-2008, 05:52 PM
I just finished doing the same thing to my trailer. A tech guy told me that regular rustoleum will not stay on the trailer. He said you have to use underwater paint. Let me know how your paint job holds up. So far mine is ok.

MMCCAR12
04-29-2008, 06:30 PM
Brian,
Where is the boat? Is it in the water or did you remove it at home?
If you did remove it at home how did you do it?

Have paint and ready to do the same.

TMCNo1
04-29-2008, 06:39 PM
I just finished doing the same thing to my trailer. A tech guy told me that regular rustoleum will not stay on the trailer. He said you have to use underwater paint. Let me know how your paint job holds up. So far mine is ok.

Yea right!:rolleyes: Why am I still laughing?

kjohnson
04-29-2008, 07:22 PM
I am serious. I talked to a technician at Rustoleum. This was after I had already painted my trailer with Rustoleum. He said the paint will not stay on because it is not designed for that type of use.

WTRSK1R
04-29-2008, 07:38 PM
Those are nice. I'd like those and I'm looking for the step side stickers too. The grippy type?
I do not know if they are still available, but the MC part number for the 9" x 21" Non Skid MC Trailer pad is 75-8557 and it was $21.95 back in 1997 when some moron clipped my trailer while at the launch. I had to replace the fender and get the lights and non skid pads for it.
Maybe MYMC, ERK, or BAWS can check if that part number is still around.

For what its worth, they made a smaller one for the top of the fender bump on a single axel trailer. It was 75-8556 and ran $15.95. My trailer was plain like Brian's, but I added these to both sides and they looked great.

Good Luck.

Steve

Monte
04-29-2008, 07:52 PM
I am serious. I talked to a technician at Rustoleum. This was after I had already painted my trailer with Rustoleum. He said the paint will not stay on because it is not designed for that type of use.

As long as he didn't tell you to paint it underwater, I'll bite.. What do I need to use? Trailer refurb coming as soon as the boat is in the water for the summer and CSM is over...

kjohnson
04-29-2008, 08:23 PM
Rustoleum sells underwater paint. So do other companies. You are supposed to use a paint that is formulated for submerged conditions even though your trailer does not stay submerged. This is what I was told. Personally, had I known beforehand, I would have used a submersible type paint, but it is too late for me. I have already painted mine.

Slinkyredfoot
04-29-2008, 08:27 PM
Yea right!:rolleyes: Why am I still laughing?


Maybe you are still laughing because most everything is happy and fun in your life and you enjoy humor.....

mayo93prostar
04-29-2008, 08:43 PM
Brian, regarding removing the roller, you need to pry (or grind and someone said) the end caps off. I was getting black marks on the bottom of the boat from the roller so I replaced the roller with a yellow one from a boat supply store with a new 12 inch rod and new end caps. it rolls great and no marks. I had to use a chisel and hammer to get the end caps off, fairly corroded. then use hammer to put new caps on. paint job looks good.

kjohnson
04-29-2008, 09:05 PM
I don't care whether you think this paint issue is funny or not. I am just passing on info from Rustoleum, which is the same brand of paint that I used to paint my trailer. So if you think it is funny, laugh your a__ off.

BrianM
04-30-2008, 12:05 AM
Brian,
Where is the boat? Is it in the water or did you remove it at home?
If you did remove it at home how did you do it?

Have paint and ready to do the same.
I borrowed a trailer from Bruce here on TMC. He keeps his boat on a lift so I just set my boat on his trailer for the week. The trailer was for a big old Maristar but with a little careful placement and taking it real slow I got the boat to sit fine for a few days.

BrianM
04-30-2008, 12:06 AM
I am serious. I talked to a technician at Rustoleum. This was after I had already painted my trailer with Rustoleum. He said the paint will not stay on because it is not designed for that type of use.

I have used Rustoleum for other small trailer touch up jobs and had my entire prop guard on my '88 painted with the silver hammered finish. I never had any issues with any of the paint on the touched up areas.

Monte
04-30-2008, 12:19 AM
Brian... Good thread BTW.. I have nothing to add.. Still in the learning phase

47Driver
04-30-2008, 08:45 AM
Any peculiarities to recarpeting the V-block? Mine needs to be done asap.

BrianM
04-30-2008, 09:32 AM
Any peculiarities to recarpeting the V-block? Mine needs to be done asap.

V block on this trailer was a composite material. You need an air stapler to get staples in it. I just used some galvanized roofong nails to hold the carpet. Nailing into the composite took some doing but was possible. My '88 trailer just had wood for the V block so I used the regular stainless staples like I did on the rest of the bunks.

BriEOD
06-18-2008, 01:48 PM
And one more from the rear. I used Rustoleum primer and then two coats of their white Industrial Enamel. I was not happy with the color match of the white so I did a final two topcoats of Benjamin Moore Metal Enamel (spray cans) in Linen White. The color match was nearly perfect.

Brian,

I'm looking to do the same. Albeit, probably not as big an undertaking as yours. My bunks and carpet are fine as well as the roller. Although I have some rust, need a new boat buddy and need to hide some wires. My ski buddy has a 99' 205 trailer and their boat is on a lift, so I can probably borrow it. I just came from Home Depot, but didn't find any Benjamin Moore linen white. Where did you purchase that paint? Moreover, the hammered finish wasn't available in white. Did you use an alternative color?

Thx ahead of time.

bmeth11
06-18-2008, 02:16 PM
Brian... Trailer looks great! Something I will needing to be looking into over this summer!

BrianM
06-18-2008, 03:07 PM
Brian,

I'm looking to do the same. Albeit, probably not as big an undertaking as yours. My bunks and carpet are fine as well as the roller. Although I have some rust, need a new boat buddy and need to hide some wires. My ski buddy has a 99' 205 trailer and their boat is on a lift, so I can probably borrow it. I just came from Home Depot, but didn't find any Benjamin Moore linen white. Where did you purchase that paint? Moreover, the hammered finish wasn't available in white. Did you use an alternative color? You can see the silver finish on the cross rails in this picture.

Thx ahead of time.

The Benjamin Moore linen white in the spray cans came from my local Benjamin Moore paint store. If you don't have one you may be able to get it on the net. I used the silver hammer finished paint on the areas that are more prone to wear and rust. It is not at all noticeable with the boat on the trailer. I actually like the little bit of contrast too.

By the way after two months and lots of dunkings in the lake the paint is holding up great so far. Now if Farmer Ted would just get me my new decals for the rear I'll finally be finished.

BriEOD
06-20-2008, 03:51 PM
Alright, I found Rustoleum primer spray paint and brush on silver hammered paint at my local Home Depot. However, after an internet search and subsequent phone calls, I was unable to find the Benjamin Moore linen white locally. With that said, I did find an internet vendor and placed an order. Here is a link if anyone is in need: http://www.myperfectcolor.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MPC49070

Tomorrow, I put my boat on my buddies trailer and will do some de-rusting, examine my breaks, etc.

BrianM
06-20-2008, 04:23 PM
With that said, I did find an internet vendor and placed an order. Here is a link if anyone is in need: http://www.myperfectcolor.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MPC49070

.

That is the stuff. It is a nearly perfect match. My only gripe is that it takes a bit more paint to cover well especially for the kind of high price.

BriEOD
06-20-2008, 04:26 PM
Fortunately, my trailer isn't to bad. The previous owner kept the boat on a lift and the trailer under a tarp. However, we are moving soon and while I have the availability of another 205 trailer I figured I would just get it done.

trickskier
06-20-2008, 04:35 PM
Looks Great Brian!!!

east tx skier
06-20-2008, 04:43 PM
Any peculiarities to recarpeting the V-block? Mine needs to be done asap.

I'd suggest replacing the composite with either treated plywood or plywood coated with marine epoxy. That composite stuff tends to crumble over time and can really make a mess of the gel coat on your keel if you don't notice that it has gone bad right away.

BriEOD
06-21-2008, 06:37 PM
Alright, I got up this morning early and took my boat across the road to my buddies course. We got 2 sets a piece and the thunderstorms rolled in. Subsequently, I put my boat on his trailer (his boat is on a lift) and brought mine home.

I took off the bunks, "v," spare tire, fenders, boat buddy, winch (not to be confused with a wench) and had to disconnect the wiring. Next, I used my pressure washer (in the rain no less). I wiped everything down and used a wire wheel on my drill and sand paper to take off the rust. Then I taped off my pin stripe, decals, lights and reflectors. I hit the bad spots with Rustoleum Primer (spray can) and hit most of the hidden spots, underneath, and inside the tongue and underneath it with Rustoleum Silver Hammer (brush on).

I am going to replace my boat buddy, winch, all the carpet and buff out my fenders (while they are off). My Benjamin Moore paint should be here this week and I'll do a top coat and reassemble everything. Also, let me add that this trailer is WAY easier to break down than my old 87 PS 190 trailer.

On another note, I was thinking of having my brakes inspected. Any suggestions on where to take it?

Thx for the inspiration and tips BrianM. With that said, curse you for doing this and subsequently causing me to do mine! :) It took me about 5-6 hrs to get to this point!

BrianM
06-22-2008, 12:05 AM
Wow! I thought you said it was going to be less of a project than mine? That looks like a lot bigger job to me. One tip for you that I actually got from Sodar. Drill a hole in the top of each of the cross rails (there is already a hole in the bottom). This allows the water to drain through instead of pooling up in the bends of the rails and causing rust and general dirt spots. I did that to mine and it works great. I then did the hammered finish in that area too since that paint is very durable.

BriEOD
06-22-2008, 12:09 AM
Well, it was supposed to be smaller. I didn't pull the roller off...

Good idea on drilling and I will do that, good call.

BrianM
06-22-2008, 12:31 AM
I didn't pull the roller off...



I never ended up taking mine off either. I just taped it up and painted around it. I also never touched my fenders. I did do a lot more grinding than you did though but it looks like you are going to do a lot more painting. How many cans of BM did you get? I used 5 for the areas I painted on mine.

BriEOD
06-22-2008, 08:50 AM
I ordered 4 cans. It sounds like I might need more. I didn't think I had that much to do. But, I hit every little spot. I figured since I was doing it, I may as well do it right.

What all did you use the hammered silver on?

Did you get that black carpet at Lowes?

BrianM
06-22-2008, 12:37 PM
I ordered 4 cans. It sounds like I might need more. I didn't think I had that much to do. But, I hit every little spot. I figured since I was doing it, I may as well do it right.

What all did you use the hammered silver on?

Did you get that black carpet at Lowes?

You are going to need more paint than that for sure.

I used the hammered finish on the tabs where the bunks attach and the indented area at the tops of the cross rails. I didn't take my fenders off or I would have used it on all of that as well like you did. Black carpet came from Lowes.

jimmyj
06-22-2008, 01:05 PM
Well I know I have deviated from the norm, but I had to let my rusty 1984 Mastercraft trailer go! Living on the Gulf Coast and dealing with the salt water, it seamed to me the aluminum trailer was the better option. I hate to say it, but it pulls better.

BriEOD
06-26-2008, 08:05 PM
Alright, I got everything done today (except I need some double sided tape to put a reflector back on). I did it over a 6 day period in my garage. My initial goal was to get all of the rust off the trailer. We are moving to Maryland in about 6 weeks and our new body of water (Severn River) is somewhat brackish in the upper portion (yeah, yeah--its better than no boat and skiing). So, I took everything off except for the roller and light bar. The light bar is riveted on (didn't feel like drilling and making a mess) and the roller has those crazy caps.

Next, I wire wheeled and sanded the bad spots. Subsequently, I primed with Rustoleum spray paint. In addition, at BrianM's suggestion, I used the Rustoleum Silver Hammer paint. In fact, I liked it so much I did the concave portions of the cross beams and the entire axle. The axle had the most chips and rust. I also painted the majority of the underside and inside the tongue with the hammered paint. BrianM also suggested (although he gave credit to Sodar) to drill a hole in the concave areas to allow the water to drain. I noticed it pools there frequently and is always dirty. There is another hole directly underneath to let the water go straight through.

I purchased carpet from Lowes and recarpeted the bunks and V. I had no problem using a regular stapler on the heavy duty plastic used on "V". Actually, the "V" is two independent pieces of plastic that when bolted into the trailer form a "V". Additionally, I put carpet on the new Boat Buddy II I purchased. The old one had a dent in the pin (wasn't bent, just seriously dented??).

I took a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to the fenders and waxed them.

Also, I was missing some nuts and lock washers on the bunks so I repalced them.

I bought 7 cans (two orders--duh on my part) of Linen White paint via internet. It matches well. However, if I had it to do again I would have pulled off my MasterCraft decal and the pinstriping. I elected to tape it. If you really look you can see a color change. But, I'm nit picking.

All in all it took me between 10-15 hours and about $200. The rust is gone, the black carpet matches my boat and it looks great.

TMCNo1
06-26-2008, 08:56 PM
Turned out great!

BriEOD
06-26-2008, 08:57 PM
Thx No1...it isn't perfect, but far better than it was!

TX.X-30 fan
06-26-2008, 09:09 PM
Very detailed post BriEod I am taking notes here. What a dramatic improvement, looks great.

BrianM
06-26-2008, 11:58 PM
Looks great Bri!

BriEOD
06-27-2008, 08:19 AM
Thx guys. :cool:

Kevin 89MC
07-07-2008, 01:11 PM
Wow, great job both of you! Those trailers look really good! Geez, now you're making me feel bad for my poor neglected trailer. Maybe in a year or two I'll get to it, hopefully the rust won't kill it first!
Kevin

BriEOD
07-07-2008, 06:27 PM
Thx, the trailer is pretty important. It is the means to the ends.

wsrobert
07-07-2008, 06:38 PM
Brian M...I noticed you were from Mandeville. Where do you normally ski. I'm from Zachary and we normally end up on the Tickfaw River.

flipper
07-07-2008, 06:45 PM
Man, that thing looks like new BriEOD....great job

jixxxer
07-23-2008, 12:12 PM
Wow looks great, I really need to do that to mine, the rust is bad!!!!! I just gotta find a place for the boat.

jixxxer
07-24-2008, 01:19 PM
So what did u use to take off the heavy rust? Wire brush on a grinder or???

east tx skier
07-24-2008, 01:45 PM
So what did u use to take off the heavy rust? Wire brush on a grinder or???

Grinder for the heavy stuff.

BriEOD
07-24-2008, 01:45 PM
Wire wheel on a drill and then some sand paper.

BriEOD
01-05-2009, 07:34 PM
Glad I don't have to tackle this again!

brucemac
01-05-2009, 07:56 PM
hey nice work!

hey how did those magic erasers work on the glass fenders?

i've got some pretty heavy scratches on my black fenders. have some 160 grit wet or dry per no.1's advice, but haven't gotten out there yet to do it. wondered how bad yours were to begin with. would like to get mine spruced up. little nervous to wetsand, but those magic erasers are essentially the same thing.

brucemac
01-05-2009, 07:59 PM
hey one more question while i'm at it. for whatever reason, the metal piece that wraps my tounge, the sides below the actual hitch/actuator are rusted. the piece was either aluminum that wasn't finished properly, or it was steel that never got painted. whatever the reason, it's rusted a bit on the sides. how do i clean that up? it would be quite a pain to paint it i think because it doesn't match the trailer anyway and it's got so much stuff on it. any tips on that?

TMCNo1
01-05-2009, 08:20 PM
hey nice work!

hey how did those magic erasers work on the glass fenders?

i've got some pretty heavy scratches on my black fenders. have some 160 grit wet or dry per no.1's advice, but haven't gotten out there yet to do it. wondered how bad yours were to begin with. would like to get mine spruced up. little nervous to wetsand, but those magic erasers are essentially the same thing.

I wouldn't wet sand it with any thing less than 600, but the finer the better, even with 2000 and it takes a whole lot less to polish out!

TMCNo1
01-05-2009, 08:21 PM
hey one more question while i'm at it. for whatever reason, the metal piece that wraps my tounge, the sides below the actual hitch/actuator are rusted. the piece was either aluminum that wasn't finished properly, or it was steel that never got painted. whatever the reason, it's rusted a bit on the sides. how do i clean that up? it would be quite a pain to paint it i think because it doesn't match the trailer anyway and it's got so much stuff on it. any tips on that?

Use a wire brush on a drill, remove all paint, etc. down to the raw metal, prep, prime and repaint.
A lot of times, a leak in the master cylinder or line or overfilling the master cylinder will allow brake fluid to seep or run down into the actuator tube and it will eat up the paint, then rust sets in. Prior to repairing the paint, wash out the actuator tube with mineral spirits and it will dissolve the brake fluid and clean it up.

brucemac
01-05-2009, 10:15 PM
harold, two quick things. i was wrong it's 1500 that i bought. not 200. lol. sorry, i was at work and rushed. lastly, the piece on my trailer i'm talking about was never painted to begin with. i'll snap a pic when i get a chance.

Sodar
01-05-2009, 10:27 PM
I would not grind the actuator. It is a galvanized piece that slides in and out of the actuator tube and therefore it will tear the paint right off causing a bigger and uglier problem than the litte rust you have now. If it really bothers you, I would look for a replacement. I installed a new one on my older trailer and as long as you keep the new actuator waxed and clean from brake fluid, it should not rust like yours has. Here is a pic of my replacement (Older version of yours).

TMCNo1
01-05-2009, 11:36 PM
harold, two quick things. i was wrong it's 1500 that i bought. not 200. lol. sorry, i was at work and rushed. lastly, the piece on my trailer i'm talking about was never painted to begin with. i'll snap a pic when i get a chance.

OK, it's the actuator itself and not the painted actuator tube. It is galvanized and I use metal polish on it to keep it cleaned up and shiny. But, if it gets real wet, it will develop black spots, so you'll have to re polish it occasionally.
43423

43424

Sodar
01-05-2009, 11:54 PM
I believe that the 2003 trailers had an actuator and actuator tube unlike ours, Harold... my mistake. Not sure what I would suggest...

The 2003 trailers have ones that look like these:

http://media.channelblade.com/boat_graphics/dealers/2502/digi35913715.jpg

brucemac
01-06-2009, 12:14 AM
yeah, sodars got it, that's exactly what mine looks like. it looks almost like galvy. it's the sides, right where the warning sticker is on that one.

TMCNo1
01-06-2009, 07:37 AM
yeah, sodars got it, that's exactly what mine looks like. it looks almost like galvy. it's the sides, right where the warning sticker is on that one.

IIRC, it still looks like it's galvanized and should clean up with some with metal polish. Worth a try????

brucemac
01-06-2009, 01:56 PM
so should i just take a wire brush to the rust first then harold and then give it a go with some blue magic?

TMCNo1
01-06-2009, 03:32 PM
so should i just take a wire brush to the rust first then harold and then give it a go with some blue magic?

I'd try the metal polish first, just to see what happens and use a buffing/polishing pad to speed up the process. Be sure to tape off any painted parts nearby. I've previously bought some galvanized paint from Ace Hardware that I used on some galvanized sheet metal and chain that has held up for years. If the rust won't come off with polish, wire brushing the rust down to the clean steel and using the galvanized paint may be a option to consider to keep it in check.

BrianM
01-06-2009, 06:19 PM
Since this thread popped back up I figured that I would report back that after a season of use all of my touch ups still look like the day I finished them. Here is a picture from late in the year after I added the new wheels to finish it off.

BriEOD
01-06-2009, 06:23 PM
Looks good B. Mine held up very well and made a 800 mile road trip. Although, I did blow a friggin' tire along the way.:mad: Eastie jinxed me!!

brucemac
01-06-2009, 06:23 PM
looks great brian and those wheels look terrific. really spruces up the trailer.

Wesser
01-16-2009, 08:17 PM
love the wheels,how much those set you back?

BriEOD
03-19-2009, 10:29 PM
So--no trailer refurbs this off season?

CantRepeat
03-20-2009, 08:58 AM
I'm kicking it around. I know my bunks need some love. The fenders have issues too. We'll, see what happens once I get the rub rail and platform done.

Time time time... where is it?

BriEOD
03-20-2009, 04:54 PM
Don't forget a trailer is an important means to the ends.;)

CantRepeat
03-21-2009, 08:05 AM
I went ahead and got some new rims.

http://www.mikesell.net/images/boat/wheel.jpg

I'm sure that is a start on a few larger fixes for my trailer. I might pull the frenders off today while the wife is cleaning up inside of the boat.

BrianM
03-21-2009, 01:01 PM
I went ahead and got some new rims.

http://www.mikesell.net/images/boat/wheel.jpg

I'm sure that is a start on a few larger fixes for my trailer. I might pull the frenders off today while the wife is cleaning up inside of the boat.

Those look very familiar.

Footin
03-21-2009, 01:44 PM
Hey Brain, you mentioed that Ben Moore Linen white is a close match, did you mean to the stock MC white on the trailer?

Would you use it to touch up other spots on the trailer?

I know rustolum white is to "bright" of a white to match for touch up.

CantRepeat
03-21-2009, 02:12 PM
Those look very familiar.

Yeah, I'm hoping the backspacing is to far off from what I have on there now.

justinglow
03-21-2009, 02:29 PM
Those look very familiar.

Yeah it does look familiar.

BriEOD
03-21-2009, 03:31 PM
Hey Brain, you mentioed that Ben Moore Linen white is a close match, did you mean to the stock MC white on the trailer?

Would you use it to touch up other spots on the trailer?

I know rustolum white is to "bright" of a white to match for touch up.

Not sure you were asking me or the other Brian, however it is about an exact match to the OEM paint on the trailer. You won't be able to "eyeball" the difference. Yes, you can use it for touch ups.

Footin
03-21-2009, 03:42 PM
Thanks, I have a few small spots to touch up on my trailer.

Does Home Depot or Lowes sell Ben Moore?

BriEOD
03-21-2009, 04:03 PM
No...

Only a Benjamin Moore paint store. See if you have one locally or you can do an internet purchase. Check a few pages back in this thread for a link to an online vendor.

BrianM
03-21-2009, 06:24 PM
BriEOD has it right about the paint.

BrianM
03-21-2009, 06:25 PM
Yeah, I'm hoping the backspacing is to far off from what I have on there now.

Backspace should be exactly the same. Should be a 0 backspace. Oh and you will need a new set of lug nuts if you are coming from the standard steel wheels as the ones for the aluminum's have a longer taper..

CantRepeat
03-21-2009, 08:04 PM
Backspace should be exactly the same. Should be a 0 backspace. Oh and you will need a new set of lug nuts if you are coming from the standard steel wheels as the ones for the aluminum's have a longer taper..

Yeah, I'm gonna wait until they get here and see what I need. I know what I have wont work, they are a conical type.

CantRepeat
03-28-2009, 07:59 AM
Yeah it does look familiar.

Did you get these installed yet? Got any pictures up close and at a distance?

What year do these normally come on? I might have to order the center caps for mine.

BrianM
03-28-2009, 11:47 AM
Did you get these installed yet? Got any pictures up close and at a distance?

What year do these normally come on? I might have to order the center caps for mine.
The wheels are the upgrade chromed aluminum wheels from 03-05 tandem axle trailers. The tandems use the same 14" 5 on 4.5 as the older singles did.

MCkid
03-28-2009, 06:45 PM
lookin good

wcr
03-29-2009, 04:40 PM
hey all.. first post here but i grew up with my 81. does anybody kno where i could get replacment fenders for the factory trailer? i belive it would it ge alot less work to replace them than to repair them. thanks all!

TMCNo1
03-29-2009, 05:27 PM
hey all.. first post here but i grew up with my 81. does anybody kno where i could get replacment fenders for the factory trailer? i belive it would it ge alot less work to replace them than to repair them. thanks all!

Welcome and unless you can find some for sale in the Marketplace, Craigslist, Ebay or from a dealer who may have a set laying around, make them from steel, you may be out of luck.
Unless you just have pieces left, any good fiberglass shop should be able to repair, but you'll probably have to pain them rather than have a gelcoat finish.

CantRepeat
03-30-2009, 07:12 PM
The bling has arrived!! All 4 of them brand new and without flaw.

http://www.mikesell.net/images/boat/bling.jpg

thatsmrmastercraft
03-30-2009, 08:13 PM
Those will look fantastic.

CantRepeat
03-30-2009, 08:32 PM
Those will look fantastic.

And at 80 bucks a wheel I couldn't help myself!

thatsmrmastercraft
03-30-2009, 10:59 PM
And at 80 bucks a wheel I couldn't help myself!

Get em on and lets see the pictures!

CantRepeat
04-02-2009, 06:04 PM
I will, but I'm so back logged on boat projects right now. The swim step is not done. The rub rail and bumper still needs to go back on. The decals are finally here and need to go back on. The fuel sending unit needs to be replace. The bunks need to be redone. The fenders need either buffing or painting, not sure which way to go yet. And then there's the other life stuff too. There's beer in the fridge. I really enjoy sitting on the sofa with the wife. I'm working on a patent for an invention. The grass needs cut. I so darn tired right now.

But soon, I promise to post them up. I loves my boat to much not to show it off.

CantRepeat
04-15-2009, 06:17 PM
I finally got the new wheels put on. Still to do something with the fenders.

jixxxer
04-15-2009, 06:33 PM
Looks great; where did u get your wheeles?

CantRepeat
04-15-2009, 06:39 PM
Looks great; where did u get your wheeles?

A dealer in TXs had them on ebay for 100 obo. I offered 80 a wheel and he sold them. At the time I think he had 3 sets but I don't believe he has anymore of them.

brucemac
04-15-2009, 06:46 PM
I finally got the new wheels put on. Still to do something with the fenders.

jealous! looks great!

thatsmrmastercraft
04-15-2009, 07:47 PM
Those really do look great!

CantRepeat
04-15-2009, 08:23 PM
Thanks guys. Anyone know what year these wheels are off of? I'd like to order the center caps for them

TMCNo1
04-15-2009, 08:41 PM
Thanks guys. Anyone know what year these wheels are off of? I'd like to order the center caps for them

Since you have this picture,
46206
you can take a copy to your dealer or you can send the pic to any dealer and they can get the center caps from MasterCraft if they don't have them in stock at a dealership. MC has bins with the various caps in stock.

BrianM
04-16-2009, 08:13 PM
The wheels are the MC by Design '03-'05.

Did you get the correct lugs for them? They do NOT use the same lugs as the steel wheels.

CantRepeat
04-16-2009, 08:38 PM
The wheels are the MC by Design '03-'05.

Did you get the correct lugs for them? They do NOT use the same lugs as the steel wheels.

I pick up some standard acorn lug nuts since the wheel has a conical seat. What is special about the ones that MC sells?

I also found the caps at Rambo Marine.

BrianM
04-17-2009, 09:58 AM
I pick up some standard acorn lug nuts since the wheel has a conical seat. What is special about the ones that MC sells?

I also found the caps at Rambo Marine.

The standard Acorns do not quite tighten up all the way. The taper is not quite long enough on them so the squared off portion starts to bottom out on the conical seat before they are completely tight. The other lugs are bulge style with a smaller diameter square section.

You want the McGard 64010

BrianM
04-17-2009, 10:01 AM
Here is a pic of the standard style lug for comparison

CantRepeat
04-17-2009, 10:07 AM
Thanks very much Brian. This could have turned out poorly for me.

BrianM
04-17-2009, 10:10 AM
No problem. I originally had the standard acorns on mine but they just didn't seem like they tightened up quite right. I see an air gun in your picture so you may not have noticed. The more I looked I noticed the issue with the recessed conical seat and the square section of the lug. Never trailered with them on more than a block or so so it wasn't an issue. Took me a little while to find the correct ones. I assure you it makes a difference. When tightening by hand you can feel that the bulge style tighten correctly.

CantRepeat
04-17-2009, 10:37 AM
I think I may have gotten lucky. The lugs I bought are pretty close to the ones you say will work.

I took one off and it looks like it is seating on the entire wheel seat. What do you think?

CantRepeat
04-17-2009, 10:54 AM
I think the part number you are refering to is 64010 not 064010. I can't find the later on Mcgard's website.

thatsmrmastercraft
04-17-2009, 11:03 AM
Take all the lugs off one wheel, color the seating surface with a black or blue Sharpie and install them snug but not overly tight using the proper star pattern tightening sequence (assuming you are but you know what happens when you assume things). Just enough so they seat. Then remove them and look at all the lugs and evaluate from there. If all looks ok, do it again torquing to full torque specified by the wheel manufacturer. Remember that unless you have steel lug inserts the proper torque will be less than that of a steel wheel. You should be somewhere around 90 - 100 ft./lbs.

BrianM
04-17-2009, 12:06 PM
I think the part number you are refering to is 64010 not 064010. I can't find the later on Mcgard's website.

Yeah you have the part number right (edited my post). The lugs that you posted on top look correct to me.

CantRepeat
04-21-2009, 03:40 PM
I finally got the new wheels put on. Still to do something with the fenders.

The look better with the caps.

Grover777
04-21-2009, 05:02 PM
I got a quote to have my trailer sandblasted for $150....is that a good price? I will need to remove the fenders, bunks, lights, boat buddy (i assume).

They said they would paint it as well for another 200-250.....

All told for under $500...

Any thoughts?? Is that reasonable??

BrianM
04-21-2009, 05:26 PM
Sounds dirt cheap. I would jump all over that.

Sodar
04-21-2009, 05:26 PM
That is a steal. Check and see what they are going to be using as primer and paint. There are definitely products that will only look so good, for so long and you might be back the following year to have it redone.

Grover777
04-21-2009, 05:49 PM
That is a steal. Check and see what they are going to be using as primer and paint. There are definitely products that will only look so good, for so long and you might be back the following year to have it redone.


Cameron:

What brands/types should I look for in primer/paint. I for sure dont want to have to redo the trailer in a few years...

Thanks!

Sodar
04-21-2009, 05:54 PM
I will have to look at my notes from when I had my 1996 done a few years back. From what I remember though, you need a good self-etching primer followed by a high-filler primer (to give you the smooth finish) and finally a high quality paint. I want to say that the actually color coat was done with a 2 part paint with a hardner.

Basically, just talk to the guy doing this and make sure that it is going to be a job well done. I have seen one $500 job and after one trip the rock chips were ridiculous because the paint chipped so easily.

Grover777
04-21-2009, 06:12 PM
Thanks Cam!
Shoot me a PM here or on the other place if you run across your notes...

TMCNo1
04-21-2009, 09:54 PM
Before you do anything, check around your area about having it powdercoated. Most places with the ability to powdercoat a trailer can also media blast and do the coating and the media blasting will also leave the metal clean as well and it won't be pitted from the sand and metal won't be eaten away, just removes the old paint and rust.

Grover777
04-22-2009, 09:22 AM
I looked into powercoating and it seems they are limited to the size of trailer they can get into the oven. I will check a to see if there are other places around here that can do it...

TMCNo1
04-22-2009, 09:31 AM
I looked into powercoating and it seems they are limited to the size of trailer they can get into the oven. I will check a to see if there are other places around here that can do it...

These days, there is a huge amount of manufacturing companies that use/require powdercoating and most any of the larger metro areas have someone that does big ticket items, like utility trailers, tractor parts, large truck parts, race car/street rod frames and roll cages, etc.

Sodar
04-22-2009, 11:35 AM
Powdercoating is cool, but you cannot use any filler to get rid of the horrible welds and seams that MC leaves. I have heard of a few guys who went the powder coating route, who used JB Weld to fill all the welds for a smooth look. I have also heard rumors that PC is not a UV stable as automotive paint...

TX.X-30 fan
04-22-2009, 11:49 AM
It tends to chip worse too, at least on a harley frame. Looks better though.

TMCNo1
04-22-2009, 01:27 PM
Powdercoating is cool, but you cannot use any filler to get rid of the horrible welds and seams that MC leaves. I have heard of a few guys who went the powder coating route, who used JB Weld to fill all the welds for a smooth look. I have also heard rumors that PC is not a UV stable as automotive paint...

According to one of my body shop customers, http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/labmetal.html, can be used on metal as a filler prior to powdercoating. They use it on motorcycle and street rod frames.

CantRepeat
04-29-2009, 06:43 AM
This is probably the scariest thing I've ever down with a boat.

I'll probably just spot prime and paint the big stuff and worry about a full restore sometime later. I took a look at all the threads of getting your boat off the trailer and figured I could do the same. It wasn't until I got the trailer out from under the boat that I wished I had just drove over to Lake Martin and had the boat lifted and stored at one of the big marinas there.

I welded up some 4x4x1/4 onto 18x18x1/4 plates with 6x10x3/8 plates on top and then put towels over them. I feel good about that part. The front is sitting on two 12ton jack stands and I just left the floor jack under it as well. I welded up a nice little V shaped thing and then welded that to a 3/8 flat plate that got a 1 1/4 inch sold piece of round stock so it would stay on the floor jack. I'll have to get a photo of that once the boat is back on the trailer.

With a tandem axle trailer I had to move the jack and jack stands 4 or 5 times to get the trailer completely out from under the boat. What a PIA that was.

Before anyone asks, the tires are just under the boat for my piece-of-mind. I know it won’t do much but it makes me feel a little better.

CantRepeat
05-03-2009, 09:01 AM
I'm done except for the decals that go on the sides of the fenders. They should be here sometime next week.

http://www.mikesell.net/images/boat/210Maristar.jpg

russlars
05-03-2009, 10:00 PM
I'm done except for the decals that go on the sides of the fenders. They should be here sometime next week.

http://www.mikesell.net/images/boat/210Maristar.jpg
Lookin good! Now lets get that spare tire cover on straight and you will have it made.;) One of my pet peeves.

CantRepeat
05-04-2009, 05:53 AM
Lookin good! Now lets get that spare tire cover on straight and you will have it made.;) One of my pet peeves.

I'm going up hill so it just looks that way. :D