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View Full Version : "How to " trailer carpet repair


RK@UST
04-23-2008, 10:40 AM
Here is the deal.
I have to fix a carpet repair on my trailer.
It is in the very back ( rear) of one of my runners.
It's only about an 8" section that needs it, and I believe only needs carpet.
I am going to launch the boat and pull the trailer out, which means it will still be wet.
What do I need to do from this point.

wakeX2wake
04-23-2008, 10:44 AM
have your carpet pre-cut... rip off and staple... i'm not too sure about using adhesive... most of it will probably work on wet wood anyways... we just used a lot of staples in the repair on the mari-star trailer

flipper
04-23-2008, 10:46 AM
Use stainless staples though.

east tx skier
04-23-2008, 10:55 AM
Skip the adhesive IMO. Will just make it more difficult to get the carpet off next time.

bbeach
04-23-2008, 11:00 AM
Stainless Staples is a must!

RK@UST
04-23-2008, 11:01 AM
Just got to thinking , it's on the end, which seems like it will need some folding, I am not good at wrapping presents.
I think I will drive the boat and have my buddies perform the work.

loeweb
04-23-2008, 11:18 AM
No adhesive please. If you adhesive the tops of the bunks and the carpet goes bad again, you have just possibly created a mess the the bottom of the boat where the boat meets the bunks. Adhesive heats up a little causing it to stick to the boat. Not a good idea IMHO.

wsrobert
04-23-2008, 01:40 PM
I re-did my boards last year and I used a light layer of gorilla glue to keep it down. The only bad thing is that if you get it too thick, it will bleed through. I don't mind using the glue b/c when I go to replace next time, I'll probably replace the boards too. It's only like $40 in lumber. I will suggest however that you double layer the carpet, especially on the larger boats. I have a 240SC and I didn't double layer the carpet and I'm regretting it.

thijs
05-21-2008, 12:38 PM
Where would be the best place to get new carpet. Roughly what is the cost and what kind of carpet should we use??????

'94 PS 205

johny_Utah
05-21-2008, 10:49 PM
I just did mine and got the black carpet from Home Depot. I think it was around 4 dollars per foot.

JKTX21
05-21-2008, 11:54 PM
Where would be the best place to get new carpet. Roughly what is the cost and what kind of carpet should we use??????

'94 PS 205

I believe it's Olefin outdoor carpet and it comes in grey and black at Lowes and / or Home Depot.

Grover777
05-27-2008, 10:53 AM
Where can I find SS staples? We can not find any boxes that specifiy they are stainless. Also, what size of staple?
Thanks

BrianM
05-27-2008, 11:02 AM
Should be able to get stainless staples most anywhere. Your local Ace Hardware should have them. Monel is another option. Size depends on what size your staple gun takes. Looks like Sears carries them too http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00973839000P?vName=Tools&cName=HandTools,Carpentry&sName=Staplers%20&%20Accessories&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00973839000P?vName=Tools&cName=HandTools,Carpentry&sName=Staplers%20&%20Accessories&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a)

Grover777
05-27-2008, 11:09 AM
Thank!

I got my black Olefin carpet at lowes on clearance a few weeks ago. It was 23 cents a linear foot.

wsrobert
05-30-2008, 01:32 PM
You can get trailer bunk carpet at just about any marine store (west marine, bass pro shops, etc...).

Be careful getting the cheap stuff though or you'll be doing this again next year.

vogelm1
05-30-2008, 01:47 PM
I used 1/2" monel staples for my re-carpet project - they worked great. An electric stapler is also a nice time saver if you want to spend a little extra cash for one.

cdstukey
06-07-2008, 11:05 PM
My trailer has carpet on the inner edge of the fenders, it looks like the carpet is held on with a clear adhesive, any ideas as what would be best for that?

vogelm1
06-08-2008, 10:47 AM
Contact cement would certainly do the trick, and is probably what is used at the factory. Spread a little on each surface, let it set up, and stick it down.

3M "Hi-tack" 76 would achieve the same result and comes in a convenient spray can. The Home Depot's and Hardware stores usually carry it - have not seen at Wal-mart. I used 76 to stick down the insulation in my motor box (the 3M 77 wasn't strong enough) and it hasn't budged yet.

thijs
06-08-2008, 11:35 AM
My trailer has carpet on the inner edge of the fenders, it looks like the carpet is held on with a clear adhesive, any ideas as what would be best for that?

Some contact cements can harm plastics. Make sure that there is no plastic in the carpet you get, and/or make sure that the contact cement you use is not too caustic.

I think........

vogelm1
06-08-2008, 08:32 PM
Some contact cements can harm plastics. Make sure that there is no plastic in the carpet you get, and/or make sure that the contact cement you use is not too caustic.

I think........


That's probably a good idea - test it on a scrap piece just to make sure. However, I used the 3M Hi-tack on foam insulation and it didn't harm it one bit. Would think that'd be fine on carpet backing.

Jonathan94
08-29-2008, 03:26 PM
I used 1/2" monel staples for my re-carpet project - they worked great. An electric stapler is also a nice time saver if you want to spend a little extra cash for one.

Staples are also available in 3/8". Which length should be used? Would I get by with the 3/8 or do I need to buck up the extra $ for 1/2"?

flipper
08-29-2008, 03:34 PM
Spend the $.03 more

vogelm1
08-29-2008, 05:15 PM
Spend the $.03 more


x2...the extra length will hold the carpet down better. When stripping the old carpet off my bunks it was amazing how easily even the 1/2" staples came out in places. Good luck and post pictures when you're finished to show it off!!

Jonathan94
08-30-2008, 10:13 PM
I found some of the original staples in the carpet I pulled off and saw they were 1/2" - will stick with that. Thanks for the replies.

The refurb has been a whole summer project so far ("what's the rush - lots of time!") but it is starting to feel like fall (forcast lows of 1C and 2C over the next couple of nights) so I have to get moving!

I have been taking pictures and will post them with stories when done. Here is what I started with - pretty rough shape.

91ps190
08-31-2008, 01:23 PM
So do you have to remove the bunk boards to re-carpet them?

TMCNo1
08-31-2008, 02:14 PM
So do you have to remove the bunk boards to re-carpet them?



I would hope so!:rolleyes:

vogelm1
08-31-2008, 08:59 PM
So do you have to remove the bunk boards to re-carpet them?


I guess you wouldn't have to...but it'd be WAY easier to unbolt them and work on the bunks where it's more comfortable on a bench.

Jonathan94
09-01-2008, 12:58 AM
I wasn't going to replace the carpet but I did want to get the bunks off for a thorough refurbish of the brackets as well. However, a few of the carriage bolts holding the 2x6 to the brackets were spinning and not letting me loosen the nuts. It was a good thing I could get the carpet off while the bunks were still on because that allowed me access to the top of the bolts.

So, 91PS190, yes, if I did not want to remove the 2x6's, the carpet could have been replaced with them still bolted to the trailer. And, because of the way the carpet fit up to and around the bracket originally, I will probably reinstall the boards and put the new carpet on last. It likely would be easier and more comfortable to do them on the bench and then bolt them on but I;
1. don't want to run into any possible problems at the brackets with the carpet, (as shown in the picture) and primarily
2. don't want the carriage bolts to spin and not allow me to tighten them up enough.

Anyone have any tips for snugging up the bolts so they don't slip? The boards are still in good shape (except for 4 holes) and I don't want to replace them.

DEFINATELY would have been easier to take the carpet off on a bench if the bolts would have let me! Laying on my back with pliers overhead - not fun.

BriEOD
09-01-2008, 09:27 AM
When re-installing take a chisel and use moderate force to push through the wood and top edge of the carriage bolt. Subsequently, you can tighten it down without spinning.

Kell
09-01-2008, 10:34 AM
Anyone have any tips for snugging up the bolts so they don't slip? The boards are still in good shape (except for 4 holes) and I don't want to replace them.

How about using a size or two larger for the carrage bolt, provided the bolt can still fit through the bracket hole. I had to to that on the front v-bunk and used one size larger and worked well.

TMCNo1
09-01-2008, 01:45 PM
Countersink the holes for the bolts and use regular s/s hex head bolts with s/s star washers or lock washers and s/s flat washers instead of carriage bolts. Cover the top and sides of the bunks with a layer of carpet, glued and stapled ,then totally cover the bunk boards with a second layer of carpet, glued and stapled before bolting on the bracket to allow them to capture the carpet underneath the brackets.:twocents:

Jonathan94
09-02-2008, 11:20 AM
Great suggestions - thanks!