View Full Version : 1990 Maristar 210 Restoration
04-22-2008, 06:51 PM
Well I started the big overhaul this February. Got the boat back from the upholstery shop on 4/18. We are definitely pleased with the work. Some of you may not like the color scheme, it is definitely different!
Here is the teak swim platform and cooler cover refinishing process started. It was in pretty sorry shape! We start the wood lightening process this evening. We are using the Starbrite three step system.
04-22-2008, 06:55 PM
Couple of the After shots of the interior. These were taken with my cell phone so the quality is not so hot!:
04-22-2008, 06:57 PM
Some interior shots of the boat before it was redone:
those before shots make me want to cry:cry:
04-23-2008, 10:58 AM
Here is the teak going through the brightening process. First pics are of them after the rinse off, second are 18 hours later after fully drying. Gonna try to oil them later today if it gets sunny enough outside. I'll also try to post pics of the interior now that it is complete.
I don't think I've done a project lately that has been quite as rewarding as this one. Nothing like seeing the wood come so clean from 18 years of neglect and filth and have it turn out so nice. Thanks to everyone who has posted pics and tutorials. I didn't do all the sanding process that Harold suggests (only two rounds instead of six) but I think it is gonna look great after the oil.
After Brightener applied, wood still wet:
04-23-2008, 11:00 AM
Here it is dried out this morning:
04-23-2008, 11:14 AM
Looks like a fun project. It just sucks that it got that bad. Did you pick it up like that?
04-23-2008, 12:11 PM
Yep. It has 230 hours on it (100+ from leaving the key in the on position) and sat on a lift virtually uncovered for 7-8 years.
04-23-2008, 02:36 PM
I agree...those before shots were awful. Mine doesn't look that bad, but I am looking to re-work my upholstery soon. Where did you get the new upholstery and did you do it all yourself?
I re-did my swim platform and cover this past winter. That first layer of sanding is the worst.
04-23-2008, 04:39 PM
I took mine to a place here in Raleigh called AFC Upolstery. They did the carpet and all recovering of the seats plus new foam and a little bit of wood for $2800. Took about 4 weeks because we had some bad weather and the boat was actually outside. They kept getting delayed on the carpet install.
04-30-2008, 10:50 PM
So, you got some pics of the after???
04-30-2008, 11:15 PM
I do, it has just been raining like the dickens here the past 5 out of 6 days and now I am on the road traveling for work. I will probably be able to get out on Friday and take some pictures. Thanks for being patient, sorry I have taken so long to post them!!
05-02-2008, 11:10 PM
Okay, here are some pics. 1st two are of the teak done. Then starts the re-done interior.
05-02-2008, 11:11 PM
05-02-2008, 11:12 PM
05-02-2008, 11:28 PM
Here is where I need some help. My lift ring in is broken. THe bracket rusted through. I know how it works and what it would take to do so, the problem is I don't know how to access it. In the attached pictures, the circled cushions are not removable. Where the lines are drawn running along the bow, there is a hollow access area. The problem is that I can't reach that far up there by removing the seat cushions. Any ideas on how to remedy the situation. The only thing I can think to do is to remove the front most triangular cushion that your back would rest against and cut a hole in the fiberglass big enough to reach through with a wrench. Any other ideas?
05-02-2008, 11:58 PM
I would think that there would have to be a way in there. My '87 lift ring tied into the bow eye if I remember correctly. How does the triangle base attach to the fiberglass?
A small hole behind the front seat back shoudn't be a big deal IMO.
05-03-2008, 02:39 AM
The cushion attaches with the little plastic christmas trees. My concern is that if I break them, how do you re-insert new ones? The lift ring does attach to the bow eye. I have been able to discern that much. I just hate the idea of cutting fiberglass.
05-03-2008, 11:08 AM
Agreed on the cutting fiberglass, always tough. Interesting restore. I have a 91 210, how did you sand between the slats on the platform?
05-03-2008, 12:00 PM
Interesting color combo on the interior. What color is the exterior of the boat?
05-03-2008, 02:07 PM
The exterior is eggshell white with a black stripe. It currently has yellow Maristar stickers on it. I am going to peel those off and go with a silver and almost gold pinstripe. The interior is silver and the a pearlescant (is that spelled right?) tan. It isn't gold, but almost. I picked the color samples originally and was psyched. The interior was removed and i saw the seats coming together one piece at a time and thought, "Oh crap, what have I done for a color choice?" I was worried. But it definitely worked out once it was installed. I agree that most people will see it and ask themselves what in the world was I thinking. There is a weave, almost carbon fiber like, to the vinyl.
Today has been sanding, polishing, repainting the steering wheel, front chrome air vents by the bow, the rear black plastic blower vents, and trying to figure out if I want to try to re-inforce and fix the dog house cup holder/blank controls for water heater or custom make something. If I wasn't so far behind on getting this thing ready for the summer, I would be down at CSM 08. Ah well.
05-06-2008, 02:09 AM
I tackled the motorbox/doghouse cup holder (cupholder). The vinyl wasn't so bad as much as the issue was with the plastic channel that is u shaped that runs around it was cracked anywhere a screw was and lifting from the heat. I forgot to take pictures while I was actually doing the fiberglass or even some before pictures of the underside, but you know what it can look like and feel like if you have this old cupholder. The plastic cup holders are gone, buying some new black ones next time I go to Overton's. I checked out KSMARISTAR's custom job and figured I would do a cheap alternative. Went to the local Autozone and bought their long hair fiberglass repair kit. Looks like a small paint can with a white plastic lid. It is a long hair fiberglass with the resin mixed in, you just have to add the cream hardener (included). It cost about $14 for the kit and I have around 2/3 of the can left. I really concentrated on where there were cracks and stuffing as much of the fiberglass into the channels that were destroyed. The two center most screws were overtightened long ago and the channel area was completely destroyed. I actually had to rebuild it by cutting a crayola type marker in half and using that as my form. I was going to remove them after the fiberglass dried, but I figured I'ld leave them for the support. It isn't the prettiest job (my first time with fiberglass), and it will never win a boat show, but it is fixed and rock solid. I can drop the sucker on the ground and it will chip the concrete. I then painted the vinyl after a serious cleaning with a simple green knock-off (actually an alkaline based product) and the pics you see are after about four coats. The vinyl spray praint was about $6 at Autozone.
SO $20 later, I have a fixed and rock solid cup holder (need to add in cost for replacement cup inserts) but I would say a much more economical alternative to the $200 they sell the replacement piece for.
05-06-2008, 02:11 AM
Painted. The two pictures that look same are actually one after 3 coats and then one after 4 coats. This stuff dries REALLY REALLY fast!! You can see the two rises in the outer channel, this is where the halves of the marker are.
05-06-2008, 04:43 PM
Justinlkgb, just read slowly and saw the question about sanding the slots. I used regular sandpaper and also a foam block that had sand paper around it. It worked very well. THe only part that is taking a lot of oil is the end pieces of the small slats. THey seem to soak up oil like crazy.
07-26-2008, 06:59 PM
Well, after coming into my possession Last September, the old girl is finally 99% Done! Took her out for her maiden restoration voyage. Seemed to run pretty well other than a little surge in the rpm around 35mph and a tach that bounced a little after hard runs. I'll be replacing the coil, plugs, wires, cap and rotor next. I have just avoided it because the plugs are such a PITA to get to. Other than that, all it needs is the rub rail caulking to be redone. Then it is on to the trailer to convert it fully to work for the boat. That shouldn't take too long, but it is killing me not having guides on the trailer. Took three pulls out of the water to get her centered. Ah well. Here are the before and after pics.
07-26-2008, 07:00 PM
07-26-2008, 07:04 PM
07-26-2008, 07:06 PM
07-26-2008, 07:09 PM
07-26-2008, 07:16 PM
Looks like everything turned out great! I am sure youhave gotten a ton of satisfaction in doing the work. Your before/after shots show what some sweat equity and a little bit of $$$ can do!
07-27-2008, 02:13 AM
Really nice work
07-27-2008, 02:28 AM
WOW, what a great job on the refurbish, you should be proud!
07-27-2008, 08:36 AM
Looks great. Don't forget about the New Dimension Tower for it.
New Dimension Towers (http://www.newdimensiontowers.com/home.html)
07-27-2008, 10:47 AM
Looking Good Congrats! Now, get out there and enjoy it!
07-27-2008, 12:02 PM
wow! Good work!
07-27-2008, 03:21 PM
You have built a beautiful boat. Be very proud. Now take Sodar's advice and get it wet!!