View Full Version : Loading and Unloading Problems
mrcrowson
04-04-2005, 11:51 AM
:confused:
I am having too much trouble loading and unloading my 2005 X7.
What is happening when I go to back it off the trailer it seems to be sticky, (Very Sticky) I have tried backing it deep into the water to get the bunks wet and then pull back to unloading position this is not really helping much. Also when I went to load it back onto the trailer I must get a runny go to make it all the way up to the boat buddy and it still seems to get stuck. I am on a pretty steep ramp and have it backed in to just so the water level is just about the top of the tires of the trailer. When I first got the boat and unloaded it at this ramp I had no trouble loading it or unloading it. This has just started doing this I am afraid of damaging something. I was thinking of applying some type of slick solution to the bunks but not sure what will hurt (discolor) the boat or if it will even work. Any suggestions on this would be greatly appreciated.
:confused:
here is a link so that you can see the boat ramp this might help.
http://www.pinellascounty.org/virtual_tours/chesnut_boatramp.htm
east tx skier
04-04-2005, 12:00 PM
Be careful applying anything to the bunks. If you're on a steep ramp, you don't want it coming off too quickly. Leave your winch strap engaged until the trailer is in the water if you do it. I've heard of people using PAM cooking spray, but I'd think a marine spray wax would be better (and would serve two purposes).
Have you tried backing in a little deeper. The top of the fenders is a good mark, but the proper depth really depends on the grade of the ramp.
AirJunky
04-04-2005, 12:01 PM
Are you sure the bow ring isn't getting hung up on the trailer? I've had this happen a number of times. Appears to only happen on certain ramps that are shallow at first then drop off quickly.
Mag_Red
04-04-2005, 12:03 PM
I have a 209 and I need to go deep with the truck to get the boat off the trailer. The trailer fender is complete submerged and the water is about 6" on the trucks rear tires. My suggestion is keep backing up till she wants to float. :twocents:
mrcrowson
04-04-2005, 12:13 PM
No Bow ring is not sticking up. It makes this loud screeching noise when being backed off and loading?
NatesGr8
04-04-2005, 12:14 PM
I agree with mag, just back in until its easy. There's no guidelines on how far to back in, just go with what works.
AirJunky
04-04-2005, 12:21 PM
Thats weird Mrcrowson. I get the loud screeching when backing the trailer in & out. Somehow my tires are rubbing against the inside of the trailer fenders. Only happens when the boat is on it & when the front & rear tires are at different angles, like on the ramp.
So do you notice the bunks are particularly tacky? I take it the bunks are covered with carpet, right? Sounds like backing in till the boat is actually floating might be the trick.
east tx skier
04-04-2005, 12:27 PM
If it actually turns out that there is no carpet on the bunks, I think we may have the answer. ;)
mrcrowson
04-04-2005, 12:28 PM
Just worried about backing in too deep might make the boat buddy gethung up under the front of the boat.
mrcrowson
04-04-2005, 12:30 PM
Nope Brand new Trailer with brand new carpet on the bunks.
sfitzgerald351
04-04-2005, 12:31 PM
I also have a VERY steep ramp. I find that I have to go in deep to get the boat to mostly float and then I still have to power off the trailer in reverse. To get the boat back on I dunk the trailer or splash water on the bunks. I can't go deep with the trailer to load or I'll put the nose of the boat UNDER the v-bunk at the front of the trailer (it's a really steep ramp). So I pull out till the top of the fenders are at the water level, east the boat up to the bunks and get it sitting there straightened out nicely. Then I have to run it up to about 3500-4000 rpms to power it up the trailer. Quite scary but it's the only thing that seems to work well. I have a much older boat so I'm sure it loads onto the trailer differently than yours, but you might get some ideas from what I do.
G-man
04-04-2005, 12:35 PM
A friend of mine applys wax to his bunks, says it makes it very easy to load. I back in a little deep and pick up on the nose while pushing back. this way nothing rubs. Putting it back on you don't want to have the trailer to deep or the angle of the nose isn't correct. We move the trailer just a bit after the boat is 9/10's of the way on.
George's wax idea is good. West Marine also sells a product called Liquid Rollers. Sprays on to your carpet bunks and makes them slicker. I put it on my bunks once a year. Be carefull!! Do not take your bow strap off until you are at the water because your boat will slide right off.
Actually when I apply the Liquid Rollers, I start with less than the instructions say and then just hit it each subsequent trip until I get the right slickness. The first time I put it on was way too much :eek: Took a couple of months to lose the "slick as ice" action. :twocents:
AirJunky
04-04-2005, 12:45 PM
I just hit the brakes & the boat floats right off. When we're prepping the boat back up on high ground I'll make sure it cranks over, engine is all closed up & the drain plug is in. Then one of us will stab the trailer in & stop. The boat floats right off, starts & drives off. Truck pulls right out. The boat has always been very reliable so we've never bothered to just push it off.
MarkP
04-04-2005, 01:00 PM
I would say mag has the right Idea. OR just bring it over to my house for the summer. I’ll get the bugs worked out.:steering:
Granite_33
04-04-2005, 01:48 PM
Keep Backing it up.
Water almost to the top of the tires sounds a little shallow even with a steep ramp. After looking at the web picture of the ramp, it doesn't look real bad.
I am in the same boat (no pun) with the steep ramps. I go back until the boat begins to float to keep the friction to a minimum and keep the power backing / loading to a minimum. The tires are well below the waterline. (thankfully I have a lift and only do this a handful of times a season)
As to why the bunks now stick may also be a matter of the carpet itself. Weathering, aging, sitting in the sun, getting dirty or all of the above. Especially sitting in the FLA sun. All of these can have an adverse effect on the carpet and its ability to allow the boat to freely slide........
Someone correct me If I am wrong, but I have always viewed the bunk carpet as more of a protective measure for the hull while trailering on and off, as opposed to acting like ramps to be driven on to. :eek:
:twocents:
rodltg2
04-04-2005, 01:55 PM
you need to put more boat in the water. you want the water to cover about half the fender well. when you load take at look at the water line when the bunks are about half way covered .
bcampbe7
04-04-2005, 02:33 PM
I have a different boat, trailer and ramp so this post probably does nothing more than bring my count up. But, I back the trailer until the water level is at the top, or an inch or so from the top, of the fenders on the trailer. From your picture it looks like you are not deep enough.
peason
04-04-2005, 03:42 PM
I've put soap on my bunks to make them slippery. One solution I can think of is to lend your boat to a couple of us on the board and we'll each try it out for couple of weeks and by the end of this summer we should have a conclusion!
I can't help on this one. My Swedish maid(Inga)puts the boat in and warms it up for me. She also makes sure my perfect pass is running right and that there is sufficant drinks in the cooler. It's hard being me.
bcampbe7
04-04-2005, 03:49 PM
I've put soap on my bunks to make them slippery. One solution I can think of is to lend your boat to a couple of us on the board and we'll each try it out for couple of weeks and by the end of this summer we should have a conclusion!
No need to work so fast peason! It may take more than one Summer! :cool: :steering:
didnt you say it wasn't an mc trailer?
It may be that the bunks are "catching" on a chine or feature of the hull causing more friction or pinching the boat.
I'm probably not using the right terms but fwiw my 05197 goes on and off the trailer fairly easily compared to the 03 197 trailer but I usually backup til the water is near the top of the trailer fender (vary that a bit either way depending on ramp angle).
east tx skier
04-04-2005, 04:40 PM
I just have to post to say hahaha to Tex's post. Also, looking at the picture, I'd say just back it in further. I don't have much of a steep ramp at all and I'm further in than that to launch/retrieve. Every ramp/boat combo is different, but about 2" of fender sticking up works for me.
Good luck.
lakes Rick
04-04-2005, 04:44 PM
Except for the dreaded "bow ring" hook, I find that water level to the trailer, is not really important in unloading as it is to loading..
Back it up, within reason, until the boat starts to or actually floats off the trailer..
Judging from your pic you need to go in alot further even if you were on a shallower ramp.. Entire fender submerged for unloading, out of the water a couple of inches for loading.... My 02 cents....
Mag_Red
04-04-2005, 05:45 PM
:purplaugh I kept wondering what picture every one was talking about, till I revisited your first post. You just need to back in further. :uglyhamme My bumper is almost in the water when I launch! :wavey:
Bongo
04-04-2005, 05:58 PM
mrcrowson, I agree with the previous two posts. If the picture is about where you think the boat should come off, you are not backing it in far enough.
When backing in, I also let mine simply float away. Therefore, the back and front of the boat both need to be deep enough on the trailer to float. As a general rule, the back wheels for the vehicle are at waters edge. (Of course, ramp incline varies this some.)
As to loading the boat, I get the back fenders at about surface height. Throw water on the bunks. Pull the boat forward. Again, angle of the ramp varies this some.
Bongo
aprgriggs
04-04-2005, 06:03 PM
I have a 209 and I need to go deep with the truck to get the boat off the trailer. The trailer fender is complete submerged and the water is about 6" on the trucks rear tires. My suggestion is keep backing up till she wants to float. :twocents:
had to do the same with my X9....X10 was so different. Is this difference because of the hulls?
Also, Can you hit the tracking fins on the trailer while docking or unloading?
AirJunky
04-04-2005, 06:15 PM
Also, Can you hit the tracking fins on the trailer while docking or unloading?
Probably not while docking, April :uglyhamme
Seriously, you would have to be pulling the boat onto the trailer at such a screwed up angle to hit the bunks with the fins. And because of the bunk height, you can't hit the cross supports underneath.
The late 80s trailers on the other hand....... it's VERY easy to overshoot the trailer if it's in too deep & then hit the prop on the bunks or cross supports. We had our bow support redesigned with a boat buddy & it worked a TON better.
:confused:
I am having too much trouble loading and unloading my 2005 X7.
What is happening when I go to back it off the trailer it seems to be sticky, (Very Sticky) I have tried backing it deep into the water to get the bunks wet and then pull back to unloading position this is not really helping much. Also when I went to load it back onto the trailer I must get a runny go to make it all the way up to the boat buddy and it still seems to get stuck. I am on a pretty steep ramp and have it backed in to just so the water level is just about the top of the tires of the trailer. When I first got the boat and unloaded it at this ramp I had no trouble loading it or unloading it. This has just started doing this I am afraid of damaging something. I was thinking of applying some type of slick solution to the bunks but not sure what will hurt (discolor) the boat or if it will even work. Any suggestions on this would be greatly appreciated.
:confused:
here is a link so that you can see the boat ramp this might help.
http://www.pinellascounty.org/virtual_tours/chesnut_boatramp.htm
Definately sounds like your not taking the trailer deep enough. Float it off and float it on to your trailer buddy. SLOWLY pull it out. If you do it right, the boat should self align to the bunks.
After looking at the ramp, does'nt look like a job for the Grand AM. Sorry guys, I just had to kick that in.
jimmer2880
04-06-2005, 06:33 AM
When un-loading, I back it only deep enough for the water pickup to be under-water (usually, the bow of the boat is at the water's edge). I then jump in & fire her up. Once it's running smooth, I drop it in reverse (nothing more than just "in gear" though), waive to my driver. The driver slowly starts to backup until the boat pulls away. This works very well as long as the driver is watching me & stops once I start moving away.
captkidd
04-06-2005, 11:05 AM
George's wax idea is good. West Marine also sells a product called Liquid Rollers. Sprays on to your carpet bunks and makes them slicker. I put it on my bunks once a year. Be carefull!! Do not take your bow strap off until you are at the water because your boat will slide right off.
Actually when I apply the Liquid Rollers, I start with less than the instructions say and then just hit it each subsequent trip until I get the right slickness. The first time I put it on was way too much :eek: Took a couple of months to lose the "slick as ice" action. :twocents:
I'll echo the "be careful" with the wax. I read somewhere to apply wax to the carpet on your bunks in order to make the boat slide on and off easier, and also to apply wax to those areas that you can't reach with the boat on the trailer. I used a whole can of cheap paste wax on my bunks, and now I can't keep the boat on the trailer. My wife was backing down the ramp once and got crooked; I told her to pull up and try again. She accelerated a little too hard and the boat started sliding backward off the trailer (I had unhooked the strap and boat buddy). Fortunately only the prop hit the ramp (destroying the prop). That was several years ago, but even now when we load the boat, it won't stay on the bunks unless I get the bow strap hooked right away.
Mag_Red
04-06-2005, 11:10 AM
:eek: All these horror stories about waxing the bunks. I've never heard of this and can't imagine why any one would even do this. :confused: I've been to all kinds of ramps, all over this country and never had a problem getting the boat off the trailer ....... or on. You guys have some BIG BALLS! :worthy: Please tell me you haven't thought about paste waxing the tires on your tow rigs :eek3:
captkidd
04-06-2005, 11:35 AM
Not yet, but it works great on windshields. Just like Rain-X. Tastes like chicken.
Granite_33
04-06-2005, 11:35 AM
:eek: ...............Please tell me you haven't thought about psate waxing the tires on your tow rigs :eek3:
But that would increase gas mileage right?? :uglyhamme
Mag, it took me a while to figure out the right method for the combination of my 209 and MC trailer. All of the ramps at the Delta are STEEP. My main ramp does not allow power on or off because it undermines the dirt at the end of the cement ramp (under water). I still power on and off but do it gently and when no one is looking :eek:
First to launch.
If I put the trailer in so deep that the boat floats off, my bow eye catches on top of the bow vee pad. (new MC trailers now have a different bow vee pad with a notch) No way can I lift it over. So I have to back the trailer in with about 2" of fender showing and than power it off. When the bunks were brand new they were very sticky. When I tried to back the boat off it required so much power that the prop torque would pull the boat crooked. With just a little bit of lube on the bunks the boat now backs off with gentle power.
Recovery
Basically the same thing in reverse. If I back the trailer in too far (fenders under water) the bow eye hooks under the bow vee pad. So I back the trailer in to 2" of fender showing. Now the bow eye will clear the bow vee pad. But I must power on. With the sticky bunks (yes I make sure the carpet is wet for lube) it required too much power. With the Liquid Rollers, but boat comes right up the trailer with little effort. Or if club members are watching, I can winch the boat up the trailer without feeling like I am going to rip the bow eye out of the boat.
If I had the bow vee pad that the 2004+ MC trailers have I would be :banana:
But that would increase gas mileage right?? :uglyhamme
Gas milage goes to crap but your tires will last a lot longer :uglyhamme
jimmer2880
04-06-2005, 12:33 PM
:eek: All these horror stories about waxing the bunks. I've never heard of this and can't imagine why any one would even do this. :confused: I've been to all kinds of ramps, all over this country and never had a problem getting the boat off the trailer ....... or on. You guys have some BIG BALLS! :worthy: Please tell me you haven't thought about psate waxing the tires on your tow rigs :eek3:
If I EVER see anyone backing a boat down the ramp with it completely unhooked, they get an earful from me. That is beyond stupid. Someone can seriously get hurt/killed unless you're the only people on the ramp.
That being said - I wax my bunks since I always wait to unhook the boat till it's in the water (takes an extra 10 seconds you know).
When I load, the boat buddy latches & keeps me in place till I can hook up the strap.
NSXBill
04-06-2005, 12:44 PM
Mag, it took me a while to figure out the right method for the combination of my 209 and MC trailer. All of the ramps at the Delta are STEEP. My main ramp does not allow power on or off because it undermines the dirt at the end of the cement ramp (under water). I still power on and off but do it gently and when no one is looking :eek:
First to launch.
If I put the trailer in so deep that the boat floats off, my bow eye catches on top of the bow vee pad. (new MC trailers now have a different bow vee pad with a notch) No way can I lift it over. So I have to back the trailer in with about 2" of fender showing and than power it off. When the bunks were brand new they were very sticky. When I tried to back the boat off it required so much power that the prop torque would pull the boat crooked. With just a little bit of lube on the bunks the boat now backs off with gentle power.
Recovery
Basically the same thing in reverse. If I back the trailer in too far (fenders under water) the bow eye hooks under the bow vee pad. So I back the trailer in to 2" of fender showing. Now the bow eye will clear the bow vee pad. But I must power on. With the sticky bunks (yes I make sure the carpet is wet for lube) it required too much power. With the Liquid Rollers, but boat comes right up the trailer with little effort. Or if club members are watching, I can winch the boat up the trailer without feeling like I am going to rip the bow eye out of the boat.
If I had the bow vee pad that the 2004+ MC trailers have I would be :banana:
I agree with Dan. I use Liquid Rollers and it works. I keep the winch hooked up while backing down and when pulling up the ramp (the wench is driving the truck). I also agree that the newer V would alleviate much of these problems because you could simply put the trailer in deeper.
How far above the water the fenders are probably depends on single or tandem (as well as other factors like ramp angle). My single axle is 1/2 +/- inch out when I launch/recover. This is AFTER the bunks have been submerged.
Mag_Red
04-06-2005, 01:15 PM
:woohoo: I also agree that the newer V would alleviate much of these problems because you could simply put the trailer in deeper.
How far above the water the fenders are probably depends on single or tandem (as well as other factors like ramp angle). My single axle is 1/2 +/- inch out when I launch/recover. This is AFTER the bunks have been submerged.
I'm sure glad I have the newer style trailer :dance: :banana:
NSXBill
04-06-2005, 01:24 PM
:woohoo:
I'm sure glad I have the newer style trailer :dance: :banana:
I thought that the lower V was only on the 2005 trailers...Your profile says 2004...?
I thought that the lower V was only on the 2005 trailers...Your profile says 2004...?
I first saw a notched Vee (didn't lower the V just put a notch in the mount between the two pads) on a 2004 MC trailer
Mag_Red
04-06-2005, 01:51 PM
I thought that the lower V was only on the 2005 trailers...Your profile says 2004...?Looks like, once again, Mag Red lucks out! :D
rodltg2
04-06-2005, 02:17 PM
i unhook the boat and never have had any problems on any ramp. i do however back down almost to the water then unhook it and jump in the boat.
AirJunky
04-06-2005, 02:22 PM
i unhook the boat and never have had any problems on any ramp. i do however back down almost to the water then unhook it and jump in the boat.
Yea, the only time I have NOT unhooked the boat is when we're on an unusually steep ramp. The boat has never even creeped an inch.
Actually, that not totally true..... some of you might remember a story I told about skiing in the winter when the bunks were iced up. :uglyhamme
NSXBill
04-06-2005, 02:30 PM
I think a lot of the problems we're discussing here are experienced on newer boats/trailers that have the 4-bunk design.
Also, the 209/X9 is particularly worse because it is lifted up above the fenders for its 8 ft-wide clearance, thus compromising ease of use. Once you back it in far enough for it to start to float, the bow eye will catch on the v.
If I launched my 209 like I wanted, the bow eye would catch on that v every time. I don't think any of the other MC's have THAT problem.
east tx skier
04-06-2005, 02:38 PM
Yea, the only time I have NOT unhooked the boat is when we're on an unusually steep ramp. The boat has never even creeped an inch.
Actually, that not totally true..... some of you might remember a story I told about skiing in the winter when the bunks were iced up. :uglyhamme
Ever since the first time I heard Capt's story, I started leaving things hooked up until the rear end of the boat was just above the water. I don't wax my bunks, but I do need to wax the boat in that spot.
mrcrowson
04-06-2005, 04:14 PM
Thanks everyone
I will just have to get out at the ramp and try to dunk it deeper. I may also try something that might be temporary like soap or something to see how it works. I never unhook anything until I am in the water on this ramp, just too scary and steep. I am still new at this but am starting to get the hang of it. It was just so funny the last time this old man said you’re scratching the bottom of the boat young man, just rolled my eyes at him and kept working on it.
NSXBill
04-06-2005, 04:20 PM
I'm tellin' ya dude, the Liquid Rollers really helps :rant:
east tx skier
04-06-2005, 04:29 PM
By the way, it's not uncommon for rocks and debris to get caught in the carpet fibers on the bunks. If you have the opportunity to inspect the bunks periodically while the boat's not on there, look for this sort of thing and pull it out. If you've gotten some debris in your bunk carpet, the old man might have been, but hopefully wasn't, onto something.
mrcrowson
04-06-2005, 05:19 PM
I hear ya, Probably nothing on the bunks but would not hurt to check them out, Lake Tarpon is nuttin but a muck lake only mud at the ramp.
:)
jj209
04-06-2005, 10:45 PM
Have an 01' 209 that has already had the bunk carpet replaced by MC due to this problem. I launch at a very steep ramp and encounter similar problems as already stated (catching the bow eye on the V-bunk). I have never tried Liquid Rollers but may give it a try. Since getting the new carpet last yr, I have just taken my time and help my wife get it off the trailer (an add'l 1-2 minutes). If your problem persists KEEP an eye on the bunks, mine wore throught causing gel coat damage.
Mag_Red
04-06-2005, 10:50 PM
I think if I had one of the dreaded V-bunks I'd have it modified. :twocents:
Mag is a lucky dog.
My dealer said "oh ya, you should consider having someone do some welding on yours"
rodltg2
04-07-2005, 03:55 PM
this is the set up i like the best, easy trailering . you can throttle into the nose bunks and keep power on the boat while you pull the boat out of the water.
mcprostar197
04-07-2005, 05:01 PM
When we bought our boat, the dealer gave us a free tutorial as it was our first time owning an inboard. When unloading, he said that we wanted to back up until the boat just starts to float. If your boat is still sitting on the things when your trying to back out, it make sense that it wouldnt be as easy as if the boat was floating just an inch above them.
erkoehler
04-23-2005, 12:50 AM
When we bought our boat, the dealer gave us a free tutorial as it was our first time owning an inboard. When unloading, he said that we wanted to back up until the boat just starts to float. If your boat is still sitting on the things when your trying to back out, it make sense that it wouldnt be as easy as if the boat was floating just an inch above them.
Were you out at the jump clinic on lake minocqua last summer in August?
MarkP
04-23-2005, 07:15 AM
this is the set up i like the best, easy trailering . you can throttle into the nose bunks and keep power on the boat while you pull the boat out of the water.
I had that setup on my Nautique. Talk about, ease of use.. But, I have gotten used to the MC setup quickly and think it may be a little more secure.