View Full Version : Trailer Paint Match
04-03-2005, 02:02 PM
I have a pale grey M/C trailer '94 205. I have tried to match the paint with off the shelf stuff but I cannot seem to get the correct shade. Can you get original colour match paint? Spray can for touch up is preferred.
I am not sure if it is enamel or lacquer either?
Anybody know anything about the above?
i got lucky. the wife tore up a prop on my trailer last year. i grinded the rust spots and hit it with good krylon and it matched perfect. you can't tell a difference.
04-04-2005, 09:54 AM
I don't know about a spray can, but any auto paint shop can match the paint for you no matter what the color. You can take the trailer or a decent size peice for them to match.
Good luck with off the shelf paint. Because your trailer has seen the elements the oods of matching paint will not be good. The paint will need to be tinted to match your current color. My suggestion to you is to prep the whole trailer and repaint. It is not all that much work and it will freshen up your whole trailer. Besied to get a perfect match will cost more $$$ then repainting the whole thing.
Even a brand new car/trailer what ever will have slightly different variants on paint color and formula. Some variants in paint might be more blue, red ect. Unless you will be happy with a slight miss match do the whole thing.
Note remember even tinted paint to match is not a perfect match. The secret to a good paint job is knowing how to blend the old and new paint and where to blend.
04-06-2005, 06:05 PM
Thanks Mika, I suspect you are right. Do you know what kinda paint is on these trailers? Enamel, Lacquer?
I used some Dupli-Color auto paint which was a close match but it did slightly lift the old paint at the edges.
04-06-2005, 06:47 PM
If your old paint wrinkled, chances are you have a lacquer based paint. The duplicolor out of a can that you are using is lacquer.
04-06-2005, 09:20 PM
How do I prevent the wrinkling?
Per your orginal thread the trailer is a 94. I would be willing to guess that it is either enamel or Polyurthane (sp). Lacquer is prone to cracking. As the paint ages it gets very brittle and I am sure there are some chemical aspects to the cracking also. But simply put lacquer does crack with time. My question is where is the cracking of the paint. Is it on the metal frame or the fiberglass fenders? The fenders being fiberglass is prone to flexing and movement that will crack any paint. I can not speak for MC but I know my trailer a 98 is painted with polyurthane paint. Ployurthane paint is very good paint. Long life and good durability however the chemicals involved can be dangerous if not used in the correct way. The fumes are toxic and the absorbtion throug the skin can casue other problems. If you are going to be using urthane paint take time to protect your self. Not that Lacquer or Enamel are much better they all contain chemicals that are very dangerous when not used with caution. IMO urthane paint is the way to go. Very easy to spray and it provides great results. Just remember any paint job is only as good as the hours and hours of pre-work under the paint. The materials are costly so take your time so that you can get the most life out of the finished job.
04-13-2005, 10:23 PM
Sounds like I have been spraying lacquer over enamel or poly. I will try to find a better match.
Thanks for the cautionary note about using the paint safely.
You can spray paints on top of eachother but you must first put a primer/sealer on. The sealers do what they say the reduce or eliminate chemical reactions betweent the two different paints and help with paint addheasion. I have seen many great paint jobs that have lacquer based primers for the undercoat and they have a urthane top (or final) coat for the actually paint. But in all cases a good quality sealer was used to join the two different chemicals together.
Think about painting like how pavement goes down. For an example Ashphalt. When they pave a driveway or road they put down the base coat of ashphalt and the they put a liquid on between the base coast and top coat. In the world of ashphalt that liquid is called prime (or at least that is what I have heard it called) and that allows the base coat and top coat to become one instead of two seprate parts. That union makes for a very strong and long lasting finaly product.
I hope that helps
04-14-2005, 09:43 AM
Actually "sealer" is a bad name. I had a two week class on sealers.
1. SEALER is for a uniform color match and an extra layer of material that is it. They do not seal anything down. They are just tinted primer/basecoat mix.
2.PRIMER is for the filling of small scratches and pits. Like the scratches that come from your sandpaper. That is all primer is good for is a smooth surface. Hince the name "primer surfacer"
Mechanical scratches (microscopic) like the ones you put in with sandpaper or a scuff pad are the only way to get adhesion.
3. EPOXY PRIMER Great for direct to metal aplications. Sticks to bare metal as long as it is cleaned and preped. Also will work for a sealer, If allowed to dry overnight.
4. LACQUER PRIMER Junk dont use it. Lacquer shrinks, thanks to the sun. Lacquer is very old technology. Dont use it.
I could keep going but I feel like I have been a jacka