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ncsone
03-12-2008, 10:01 PM
Looking for some feedback on this one. I have a MC trailer that is about 2-3 years old (some question around the age) that came with the boat I boat a month ago.
Does anyone's trailer slam or 'pop' backwards against the tow vehicle when starting from a stop? I just picked it up from the dealer and on the way home, it slammed everytime I started moving. Sometimes just as I accelerated from a slower speed.

My experience with previous trailers was that stopping and starting was a smooth experience. I think I even remember some springs to push the plunger forward once you stopped to prevent this from happening.

I am very concerned that if this keeps happening, something will eventually break, causing lots of problems.

Let me know what everyone's experience is, please.

erkoehler
03-12-2008, 10:03 PM
You may want to bleed your trailer brakes, check the fluid level too.

Doug G
03-12-2008, 10:03 PM
Many times that can be from low fluid.

flipper
03-12-2008, 10:11 PM
J agree with the rest. Mine did the same thing when I get it. I topped off the fluid, bled the brakes, and all was well.

ncsone
03-12-2008, 10:16 PM
Just wanted to be clear on my concern here. My concern is that this is going on as I drove the trailer home from the dealership service today. I spent $500 today to have a new mastercylinder and reverse solenoid installed as well as have the brakes bled by the dealership.

jraben8
03-12-2008, 10:19 PM
Sounds like someone forgot to add fluid... Did they tell you that they tested them?

erkoehler
03-12-2008, 10:20 PM
Just wanted to be clear on my concern here. My concern is that this is going on as I drove the trailer home from the dealership service today. I spent $500 today to have a new mastercylinder and reverse solenoid installed as well as have the brakes bled by the dealership.


Well, that should fix it :)

Doug G
03-12-2008, 10:28 PM
Yup that's the right repair.:o

ncsone
03-12-2008, 10:51 PM
It is still doing this after the repair. So, I am not feeling like I got my money's worth or that the dealer did not do a great job on their work. Am I right about this or wrong? I just spent $500 and yes, the brakes now work, but the trailer still pops the truck severely when I move forward from a stop.
No trailer that I have ever had before ever did this. Even the crappy Uhaul trailer I rented two weeks ago.
Very frustrating...

ncsone
03-13-2008, 07:43 AM
Bump. Still looking to see if I can get some opinions from others.

emnesto
03-13-2008, 07:48 AM
Check the wiring on the reverse solenoid. Maybe it's hooked to the tail light lead instead of the reverse light.

Ric
03-13-2008, 07:57 AM
Just wanted to be clear on my concern here. My concern is that this is going on as I drove the trailer home from the dealership service today. I spent $500 today to have a new mastercylinder and reverse solenoid installed as well as have the brakes bled by the dealership. sounds like your trailer might be right at the year model where they had some issues with the master cylinder and some part that allowed too much fluid.

Ask your dealer all these details but there was an additional little part which was basically a valve or step down orifice that fixed the hiccup of those trailers as well as some of the other brake issues.

I had hell with mine in 05 til they replaced the calipers, master cylinder and that little valve altogether. It worked fine ever since they did that.
I know there is always a bit of a thump or pop when I take off now, with the new trailer, but it's not loud or abrupt, so I think it's normal. That surge brake mechanism is going to slide some when you take off after a stop, so it will bump some.

ncsone
03-13-2008, 08:04 AM
Ric - Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like you may be on to something. I think I am getting a little more than just a small bump or pop - when it happens, it is shaking my Tahoe and the boat significantly.

Ric
03-13-2008, 08:08 AM
I'd bleed the brakes first to be sure, but you might have some of those issues I experienced.. Mine was a combination of bad parts from some of MC's suppliers.. I wasn't the only victim. My issues with the bump and the hiccups was immediate, so your issues may be different.

You might as well be sure that the calipers aren't sticking or dragging the disks too much while you're at it. I think since trailers aren't driven daily, they are more prone to little corrosion issues that mess with the brake system and hassle a boater.

Doug G
03-13-2008, 08:09 AM
that level of bump does not sound correct. I still get a little because it has to "extend" after being stopped. Did you check your fluid since you have it home? If it is full then I would take the dealer tech out for a ride and get their feedback since they worked on it I am sure they will want to work with you.

I have also found that after stopping while waiting for the light to turn I get the tongue "extended" and then when the light turns ... no bump.

SteveO
03-13-2008, 08:11 AM
Jeff will do you right. Just give them a shout.

Ric
03-13-2008, 08:27 AM
I have also found that after stopping while waiting for the light to turn I get the tongue "extended" and then when the light turns ... no bump.


This does work well and in my little mind I think I'm being less severe on the trailer parts when I remember to do it.

Upper Michigan Prostar190
03-13-2008, 08:31 AM
sounds like your trailer might be right at the year model where they had some issues with the master cylinder and some part that allowed too much fluid.

Ask your dealer all these details but there was an additional little part which was basically a valve or step down orifice that fixed the hiccup of those trailers as well as some of the other brake issues.

I had hell with mine in 05 til they replaced the calipers, master cylinder and that little valve altogether. It worked fine ever since they did that.
I know there is always a bit of a thump or pop when I take off now, with the new trailer, but it's not loud or abrupt, so I think it's normal. That surge brake mechanism is going to slide some when you take off after a stop, so it will bump some.


Did you just make a legitimately helpful post?

ncsone
03-13-2008, 08:31 AM
Thanks all. I am going to talk to Jeff as soon as they open this AM. Thanks!
NCS

ttu
03-13-2008, 08:50 AM
wow, i posted a similar post after i bought my first mc. i came from a boatmate trailer that was smooth as could be.

mine turned out to that the bleeding screw was missing from a brand new trailer:mad:

dealer and mc replaced the whole brake lines and so far it is much better.

TMCNo1
03-13-2008, 10:26 AM
Most of the enclosed master cylinders/actuator assemblies have a small shock absorber in the mechanism and it helps take some if not most of the sudden shock/slam out of the master cylinder movement. Your shock may have failed or is weak. Might be worth investigating.

06197ttlq9-footer
03-14-2008, 01:34 PM
You definately have air in the break lines. Just got my boat back today with a new master cylander because i let it go to long. Dont wait to bleed, do it now.

ncsone
03-14-2008, 01:39 PM
I think I have a handle on this now. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
I think my problem was/is coming from my drawbar. I have to run about 6" of drop on my drawbar to make the trailer level. That means that I am not pulling in a straight line from the receiver, which I think is causing the 'pop' that I am feeling. Basically, as I start my pull the trailer is pulling the ball back and UP at the same time due to the large amount of drop. Plus, I was using a Alumistinger drawbar and it does not go very deep into the receiver. I switched to an old school steel drawbar that does deeper into the receiver and the problem seem to have diminished. So, I think that the loose drawbar with the large amount of drop was causing the problem. There is still some to be felt, but I am assuming that is due to the 6" drop.

flipper
03-14-2008, 01:58 PM
I think I have a handle on this now. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
I think my problem was/is coming from my drawbar. I have to run about 6" of drop on my drawbar to make the trailer level. That means that I am not pulling in a straight line from the receiver, which I think is causing the 'pop' that I am feeling. Basically, as I start my pull the trailer is pulling the ball back and UP at the same time due to the large amount of drop. Plus, I was using a Alumistinger drawbar and it does not go very deep into the receiver. I switched to an old school steel drawbar that does deeper into the receiver and the problem seem to have diminished. So, I think that the loose drawbar with the large amount of drop was causing the problem. There is still some to be felt, but I am assuming that is due to the 6" drop.

I don't think so, unless it doesn't fit your receiver right. I have a 8" drop, and don't get any banging or popping from it. On my old truck, had more of a drop, with no problem.

BrandonKTM
03-14-2008, 04:13 PM
This may be obvious, but did you check the ball size? Using a too small ball will get you that exact noise and maybe eventually a boat & trailer runnin' on down the highway!

Diesel
03-14-2008, 04:25 PM
You definately have air in the break lines. Just got my boat back today with a new master cylander because i let it go to long. Dont wait to bleed, do it now.

Yep, bleed, bleed, bleed...it takes a lot of effort to get all the air out. I had to bleed my brand new trailer as soon as I got it home from the dealer because it still had air in the system.

UFP site has the bleeding instructions.

ncsone
03-14-2008, 04:36 PM
Yep, they have been bled. I talked to the mechanic and verified that he bled them when he replaced the M/C. I then vacuum bled them 2x at the house yesterday.

Sodar
03-14-2008, 04:41 PM
I have not yet bled a Reliable system. I did my old UFP system, so I have a Mighty Vac, etc. Is there a reference on how to cycle the actuator? With my UFP, I just placed some blocks infront of and behind the tires and just went back and forth with the truck... is there any easier way?

flipper
03-14-2008, 04:49 PM
On mine, don't know what a UFP is, I was able to get a pry bar in there to cycle the actuator.

ncsone
03-14-2008, 04:53 PM
Its going on a check ride with the dealers top mechanic tomorrow AM just to be sure. If they sign off on it, then I will be more comfortable about the whole situation. Just wish I had thought to have the mech do a check ride while I was there...

Sodar
03-14-2008, 05:05 PM
On mine, don't know what a UFP is, I was able to get a pry bar in there to cycle the actuator.

You have a Unique Functional Products actuator (UFP). www.ufpnet.com (http://www.ufpnet.com)

flipper
03-14-2008, 05:14 PM
no, mine is different than that one... with that style, with out seeing it in person, you could put the ball of the truck or something like that right up to it, and pry against that to cycle it. I don't know if there's anything to pry against under it, but doesn't look like there would be.

On mine, I found a hole to stick a pry bar in, and move it back and forth. On a my buddy's trailer, we used a crescent wrench.

flipper
03-14-2008, 05:20 PM
check out page 25 here, hope it helps.....and works

http://www.ufpnet.com/PDF/A-60,%2075%20_%2084%20Actuator%20Maintenance.pdf

TMCNo1
03-14-2008, 08:09 PM
check out page 25 here, hope it helps.....and works

http://www.ufpnet.com/PDF/A-60,%2075%20_%2084%20Actuator%20Maintenance.pdf (http://www.ufpnet.com/PDF/A-60,%2075%20_%2084%20Actuator%20Maintenance.pdf)



A moderator needs to place that PDF in the FAQ section for owners to copy and view!

mark8fan
03-17-2008, 09:50 PM
It could be a problem with your actuator. If the master cyl is full of fluid and it was bled properly it should work correctly. Does the actuator slam while backing up? Depending on the year of the trailer and if you have disc brakes or not unplug your trailer harness and back your trailer up. You will find out if your brakes are working or not. These trailers aren't too complicated if you need further help contact a different dealer for help