PDA

View Full Version : No Electricity To Fuel Pump Please Help


SPLIFF
03-11-2008, 01:56 PM
1995 Mastercraft Prostar 350 With Red And Blue Stripes. Before I Got It It Was Sitting In A Yard For 4 Yrs. I Just Put A New Starter And Selnoid In It , But Before That When I Turned The Key I Think I Heard The Fuel Pump . Now My Problem Is There Is No Electricity Comming To The Fuel Pump From The Gray And Black Wires. I Checked The 3 Fuses (i Was Not Sure Which One Was The Fuel Pump Fuse They Were Labeled Ped 1 ,ped 13, & Ped 14)located On The Front Top Of The Engine Like I Read In The Faq They Seemed Ok, I Also Sprayed Wd 40 On The Kill Swithch And Pluged And Unpluged It Four Times Like I Read That Did Not Work .i Did Not Try To Bypass Kill Switch Because I Was Not Sure How To Do That. Also My Manuel Says There Are Fuses Behind The Dash But They Are Not There The Only Fuses I Could Find Where The 3 I Mentioned Earlier. Please Help It Is Already In The High 70's Here In Central Louisiana.

Thanks Spliff

SinnerDC2
03-11-2008, 02:20 PM
I'm also helping with the boat; its a family project.

Cliff Notes:

We are not getting voltage at the fuel pump when the key is in the On position. We guess its a fuel relay or fuse. I'm not very failure with v8's but I have rebuilt a few import motors in my time. We do have a good charge on the battery. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks
Nick

JDK
03-11-2008, 06:01 PM
before taking anything apart .........Jiggle the gearshift/throttle lever into and out of gear.....then try the key.

dmayer84
03-11-2008, 06:04 PM
have you tried just letting the kill switch pop out and in a few times?

SPLIFF
03-11-2008, 06:31 PM
i will try that when i get home thanks

SPLIFF
03-11-2008, 06:32 PM
yes i have, but i will do it again just to make sure thanks

André
03-11-2008, 08:41 PM
FWIW
The fuel pump relay is hanging near the rear of the engine on the driver side with another similar relay.You also have an ignition breaker on the dask,don't know if it's cutting power to the fuel pump too or only ignition...

JimN
03-11-2008, 09:56 PM
If the motor isn't running, the only time the pump relay gets voltage is for the couple of seconds after turning the key ON, for the priming cycle. Then, the ECM ends the signal because it doesn't have RPM input. You need to check the voltage to the pump while cranking or when it's running. You can use a digital multi-meter for this, or a test light.

SPLIFF
03-12-2008, 11:46 AM
After Work Yesterday I Got Home Sprayed Engine Start In It,it Cranked For 5 Seconds Then It Died, Then I Used A Test Light Like You Mentioned And It Showed Power. Then Right After That Nothing But A Click Few Times It Never Tried To Crank Again Thanks For The Previous Post The Battery Was Fully Charged

SPLIFF
03-12-2008, 12:02 PM
Andre Could You Plesae Tell Me What The Ignition Breaker Looks Like I Have No Idea. The Boat Cranked Yesterday Once After Spraying Engine Spray Then Nothing But A Click Noise The Other Times A Test Light Showed Power To Fuel Pump I Was Wrong On Previous Post ,but Still Never Heard The Pump Prime. Thanks Spliff

JimN
03-12-2008, 12:20 PM
Once again, we need to define cranking- that's when the starter turns the motor so it can run. Run is when the motor gets fuel, air and spark and can maintain that without having to turn the key to Crank. It ran on the starting fluid but you need to understand the system in order to troubleshoot it. Look at the relays on the motor- are the terminals corroded? Is voltage present on any red wire? If you don't have access to a digital multi-meter, it's not going to be easy and it'll cost a lot of money in replacing good parts. Since you didn't mention anything about Corvette on the motor, I'll assume it's a throttle body motor.

With a minimum of noise where you're checking it and the motor box open, turn the key ON- do you hear a click and a 3 second buzz? If yes, make sure the relay is good. It's a very common part- any auto parts store should have them. Tabs 85 and 86 are for the coil- connect one to battery + and the other to battery - and if it's good, it'll click. Without energizing the coil, you should have continuity from tab 30 to the middle tab (87a) and after the coil is energized, you should have continuity from tab 3- to the top one (87). Don't worry about the first test, worry about the last one. If you don't have continuity when the coil is energized, get a new relay. On the relay socket that has the gray wire, you should be able to connect tab 30 to the top one- if the wiring, plug and pump are good, you'll hear it buzzing. If it squeals, you probably need a new pump.

Click on the link for a diagram of a Bosch relay.

http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/relay.htm

André
03-12-2008, 08:42 PM
Andre Could You Plesae Tell Me What The Ignition Breaker Looks Like I Have No Idea. The Boat Cranked Yesterday Once After Spraying Engine Spray Then Nothing But A Click Noise The Other Times A Test Light Showed Power To Fuel Pump I Was Wrong On Previous Post ,but Still Never Heard The Pump Prime. Thanks Spliff
My ignition breaker is on the dash near the switches,mine is a 94,but if it doesn't even crank now, i doubt that it would be your problem.
If your listening for priming of the pump,the key need to be at the off position for at least 10 seconds before priming again.
Did the engine started with the fluid or just cranked?
listen to JimN.he's the man...

mikefiem
03-13-2008, 12:18 AM
If the motor isn't running, the only time the pump relay gets voltage is for the couple of seconds after turning the key ON, for the priming cycle. Then, the ECM ends the signal because it doesn't have RPM input. You need to check the voltage to the pump while cranking or when it's running. You can use a digital multi-meter for this, or a test light.
I seem to be having a problem and based off your threads you seem like you probably know how to help. I just bought a 2001 x 30 with a 330 in it and rebuild the engine. The boat was already gutted so I didn't see all the wiring dressing out the motor. I have two wiring harness with nothing to connect to coming off the same wire pack as the port side injectors. Also I have an open harness on the coil pack. The engine cranks but no spark. My mechaic (sort of ) said it had power to the coil pack but not coming out. I hear the fuel injectors getting primed and when I press the relief on the fuel rail fuel comes out. I know engines but need help on the wiring because I have no diagram. I need help. If you have anything please let me know via mikefiem@hotmail.com as I can view it through my PDA. Thank you.

erkoehler
03-13-2008, 12:51 AM
Jim, you should setup a pay by the minute diagnostics phone line :)

SPLIFF
03-13-2008, 04:53 PM
thanks for all your usefull information spliffOnce again, we need to define cranking- that's when the starter turns the motor so it can run. Run is when the motor gets fuel, air and spark and can maintain that without having to turn the key to Crank. It ran on the starting fluid but you need to understand the system in order to troubleshoot it. Look at the relays on the motor- are the terminals corroded? Is voltage present on any red wire? If you don't have access to a digital multi-meter, it's not going to be easy and it'll cost a lot of money in replacing good parts. Since you didn't mention anything about Corvette on the motor, I'll assume it's a throttle body motor.

With a minimum of noise where you're checking it and the motor box open, turn the key ON- do you hear a click and a 3 second buzz? If yes, make sure the relay is good. It's a very common part- any auto parts store should have them. Tabs 85 and 86 are for the coil- connect one to battery + and the other to battery - and if it's good, it'll click. Without energizing the coil, you should have continuity from tab 30 to the middle tab (87a) and after the coil is energized, you should have continuity from tab 3- to the top one (87). Don't worry about the first test, worry about the last one. If you don't have continuity when the coil is energized, get a new relay. On the relay socket that has the gray wire, you should be able to connect tab 30 to the top one- if the wiring, plug and pump are good, you'll hear it buzzing. If it squeals, you probably need a new pump.

Click on the link for a diagram of a Bosch relay.

http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/relay.htm

SPLIFF
03-13-2008, 04:56 PM
Andr'e the switch was right were you said it would be thanks

JimN
03-13-2008, 05:09 PM
You got it working? If you did, Outstanding!

JimN
03-13-2008, 05:10 PM
mikefiem- photos? They would make it easier to tell if something is off.

JimN
03-13-2008, 05:13 PM
Erk- talk to the owner, send me to training for the new models (I miss the baked goods at class) and send one of each model up here, so I can see what I'm working with. That way, the rest of you can deal with the ones in the shop.

OTOH, I suspect the shop's volume might drop off if you had someone telling people how to fix their boats.

SPLIFF
03-14-2008, 12:49 PM
You got it working? If you did, Outstanding!
Jim N thanks i did every thing you told me to and it the fuel pump made a screeching noise like you said it would. i am going to take it to engine rebuild shop to a friend that works there before i buy a new one. but if you are ever in alexandria louisiana you have a seat in my boat thanks spliff