PDA

View Full Version : My 205V Custom Ballast Project... need suggestions


beatle78
03-05-2008, 05:03 PM
Hi guys,

OK, we've pretty much gotten through the 1st 4 months of baby #2. :)

Well, the weather is about to break and I will be able to pull my boat out to start the custom ballast install.

Here are links I've used from 2 other members to help get me jumpstarted.

http://tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=16832&highlight=205v+ballast

http://tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=7798&highlight=205v+ballast

Here's a pic of what I think the general plumbing needs to be.

I bought a BUNCH of Tsunami pumps so I plan on making a supply manifold with 4 pumps in it to supply each of the 4 bags.

Each bag will have it's own drain pump as well.

Plumbing Supply's I still need to get:

8 - 1-1/8" thru hulls for vent/drain lines
1 - 1.5" cupper thru-hull
1 - lots of hose... 1" ?????
1- 1-1/2" Brass Ball Valve [EDIT]

Electrical supply's I still need to get:

4 - MC ballast switches
1 - lots of wire (what gauge do I need?)


Thanks in advance for the help!

Naste Craft
03-05-2008, 05:54 PM
14-16 awg wire......

Naste Craft
03-05-2008, 05:54 PM
14-16 awg wire......

beatle78
03-05-2008, 09:02 PM
14-16 awg wire......

OK, Thanks!

beatle78
03-06-2008, 03:34 PM
What size scoop thru hull should I use if I have 4 Attwood 1200 GPH Tsunami Ballast Pumps pulling from the same hole?

Is a 1.5" scoopy thru hull big enough?

Or should I add two 1.5" scoops to the bottom of the boat?

Rich_G
03-06-2008, 08:09 PM
start with the 1.5" TH, that's pretty big and can supply a lot of water to the manifold.

Beatle, are you planning a separate side TH for the drain & vent lines coming off each bag? You can use the same TH outlet by "T"ing the vent line into the drain line, and placing a check valve on the vent to keep water from coming back to the bag.

I couldn't tell from the diagram.

P-hat_in_Cincy
03-06-2008, 08:27 PM
You can use the same TH outlet by "T"ing the vent line into the drain line, and placing a check valve on the vent to keep water from coming back to the bag.
I was going to say that you'd probably want to check valve the vent AND drain line hoses so if you overflowed you weren't just going back into the bag, but the water will try to follow the path of least resistance...which would be out the TH, so maybe you are correct. :confused:

beatle78
03-06-2008, 09:33 PM
start with the 1.5" TH, that's pretty big and can supply a lot of water to the manifold.

Beatle, are you planning a separate side TH for the drain & vent lines coming off each bag? You can use the same TH outlet by "T"ing the vent line into the drain line, and placing a check valve on the vent to keep water from coming back to the bag.

I couldn't tell from the diagram.

Actually, I was going to run TH for the Vent and Drain, But I like the TEE idea. The least amount of holes I drill the better :)

beatle78
03-06-2008, 09:34 PM
I was going to say that you'd probably want to check valve the vent AND drain line hoses so if you overflowed you weren't just going back into the bag, but the water will try to follow the path of least resistance...which would be out the TH, so maybe you are correct. :confused:

good point. I'll put check valves on both the vent and drain lines and run that into a TEE and out to the TH for each bag.

Speaking of check valves, Are these just PVC check valves that I can pickup at Home Depot?

beatle78
03-06-2008, 09:36 PM
Also, is 1" hose the size I want? I think the Tsunami pumps have a 1-1/8" opening.

Rich_G
03-06-2008, 09:55 PM
hopefully this picture attaches; this is a top down view of the setup I described. It works. When the bag is full water is forced out the drain line and spits out the side. When I turn on the Empty pump the check valve keeps it from flowing back thru the vent line.

This is 1" hose, flexible pvc Spa hose; you can get it at the home center. I got my swing check (not spring check) valves at plumbingsupply.com

Rich_G
03-06-2008, 09:58 PM
Oh, and you can get the 1" hose to fit over a 1 1/8 fitting by using a heat gun, or putting the end of the hose in boiling water for a few seconds. I think Eric has a kitchen picture on his thread. Once it cools off, you will have to cut it off to remove the fitting.

etakk7
03-06-2008, 11:21 PM
[QUOTE=beatle78]good point. I'll put check valves on both the vent and drain lines and run that into a TEE and out to the TH for each bag.
QUOTE]

That's what I did.

beatle78
03-07-2008, 10:02 AM
Thanks guys!!..... nice pic Rich!!!

What type of pieces do I need to thread directly into the FlyHigh sacs?

Is that a HomeDepot piece or a FlyHigh Piece?

Rich_G
03-07-2008, 10:21 AM
I used nylon fittings from Home Depot. They are 1" male NPT threaded (not standard garden hose thread); it's a finer thread pattern and will fit the Fly High opening. I put plumbers tape and a garden hose gasket for good measure. It doesn't leak. the other end of the fitting is barbed, either 3/4" or 1" (the pic is the 3/4 vent hose. BTW, the 3/4 " flexible bilge hose (from Wal-Mart) is great for this application.

I don't like the Fly High QD connection. I have had them come apart and flood the bilge.

beatle78
03-07-2008, 02:43 PM
Nice, thanks Rich. I'm hopefully gonna start to gather the remaining parts over the next couple of weeks.

beatle78
03-19-2008, 04:46 PM
Hi guys,

Is this the 1.5" scoop thru hull I want to use?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=006&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=160194011897&rd=1

Thanks

Rich_G
03-19-2008, 05:22 PM
here is the one I got, and with lower shipping charges it comes out to the same price as that one:

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=54468F

the one you linked to looks really low profile. One thing I did is to drill 3 holes on the back side of the scoop to relieve some of the pressure build up at high speed. I read about this possibly damaging the pump impellers on a saltwater fishing website. The guy that helped invent Rule pumps recommended doing this.

Another thing is you have to match the thread patterns to your other hardware; elbow and brass shutoff valve. The marine products don't have tapered threads and standard plumbing does. The one I bought worked with a standard brass elbow (I used plumbing tape)

wakeX2wake
03-19-2008, 05:27 PM
rich g

do you have any problems w/ the bag sucking down on itself when emptying the bag?.... and should i worry if the opening on my bag is not as large as the hose coming off the pump? ie it could cause undue drag on the pump

Rich_G
03-19-2008, 05:48 PM
rich g

do you have any problems w/ the bag sucking down on itself when emptying the bag?.... and should i worry if the opening on my bag is not as large as the hose coming off the pump? ie it could cause undue drag on the pump

No problems with creating a vacuum. The bag is vented, and although there is a check valve, the cv will allow air to seep back into the bag from the side vent. A swing cv just has a rubber flap letting water flow one direction. It will let air seep thru slowly in the other direction.

your 2nd question - the whole system is limited by the smallest opening in terms of flow rate, but it doesn't hurt the pump at all.

JoshBuzz
03-19-2008, 06:41 PM
Rich, I keep hearing you are a whiz with all these ballast installs, Davis wasn't lyin!! Did you ever see the pics I posted from a couple weeks ago of Davis, Chris, and I??

beatle78
03-19-2008, 06:52 PM
here is the one I got, and with lower shipping charges it comes out to the same price as that one:

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=54468F

the one you linked to looks really low profile. One thing I did is to drill 3 holes on the back side of the scoop to relieve some of the pressure build up at high speed. I read about this possibly damaging the pump impellers on a saltwater fishing website. The guy that helped invent Rule pumps recommended doing this.

Another thing is you have to match the thread patterns to your other hardware; elbow and brass shutoff valve. The marine products don't have tapered threads and standard plumbing does. The one I bought worked with a standard brass elbow (I used plumbing tape)

Sweet, thanks Rich.

So you're saying that the threads on this thru-hull will not match a standard 1.5" plumbing elbow and 1.5" ball valve?

M-Funf
03-19-2008, 07:08 PM
If you decide to run the drain lines together with a "T", are you concerned about getting enough flow through the "common" tube? Should you use a larger common tube for max flow?

beatle78
03-19-2008, 08:17 PM
If you decide to run the drain lines together with a "T", are you concerned about getting enough flow through the "common" tube? Should you use a larger common tube for max flow?

I think you misread the post. I'm TEEing the vent with the drainline together per bag. aka, there will still be 1 drain for each bag. This is just reducing the number of holes I have to cut in the side of the boat from 8 to 4.

etakk7
03-20-2008, 12:08 AM
beatle, I got my thru-hull from go2marine also. I am not a plumber, so right or wrong I used plumbing fittings to connect to the thru-hull. I used thread sealer and was able to get it threaded on far enough to be secure and water tight.

beatle78
03-20-2008, 01:39 PM
beatle, I got my thru-hull from go2marine also. I am not a plumber, so right or wrong I used plumbing fittings to connect to the thru-hull. I used thread sealer and was able to get it threaded on far enough to be secure and water tight.

ok thanks. That's good to know b/c I was planning on using 1.5" plumbing fittings to do the elbow and ball valve.

for thread sealer did you use some sort of putty or did you use white tape?

Rich_G
03-20-2008, 02:48 PM
there is a thread on WW talking about this same issue; here is a quote from a guy doing a ballast install:

Do not buy brass shut-off valves and elbows at hardware stores. Buy bronze shut-off valves and elbows at boating stores at 2.5 times the price. Yes, you read that right. Thereís actually two types of thread. NPT for National Pipe Thread and ST for Straight Thread. Most threaded things we have come in contact with are Straight Threaded meaning we can screw it in until the screw head or something else seats and canít go any further. NPT thread is different. The thread is tapered.

The thru-hull is ST and you donít want to mix it with NPT because you canít get enough turns to make a strong connection. The shut-off valves and elbows at boating stores are mostly ST so be careful when you are choosing. I did some Google reading and found that bronze is a harder metal than brass and is also more corrosion resistant. A ĺĒ shut-off valve at Home Depot costs approximately $8 versus $25 at boating stores.

In theory I think what he is saying is true. However, I bought my "Marine" TH and got my 90 degree elbow and shut-off valve from a local plumbing suppy house. I think they are bronze. I used plumbers tape, but putty would do the same thing, and I ended up with the same thing a male walrus is looking for..., a tight seal (rim shot)

Here is a pic:

beatle78
03-20-2008, 04:40 PM
hehehe, every walrus' dream!

ok, so you didn't have a problem getting the NPT tapered elbow screwed onto the ST thru hull?

From that pic it looks like you used putty on the elbow to ball valve connection. So you just used the plumber's tape on the thru-hull to elbow connection?

M-Funf
03-20-2008, 05:18 PM
I think you misread the post. I'm TEEing the vent with the drainline together per bag. aka, there will still be 1 drain for each bag. This is just reducing the number of holes I have to cut in the side of the boat from 8 to 4.

Got it. I thought you were draining all bags through one TH.

Rich_G
03-20-2008, 05:36 PM
hehehe, every walrus' dream!

ok, so you didn't have a problem getting the NPT tapered elbow screwed onto the ST thru hull?

Correct, when you do the final assembly, it helps to have someone under the boat, holding the TH in place. The grills on the TH have to be pointing forward. My son used a big screwdrive stuck thru the grills for leverage as I tightened the elbow and got it pointed like I wanted.

Note: I had to remove the handle on the ball valve to be able to twist it on to the nipple.

From that pic it looks like you used putty on the elbow to ball valve connection. So you just used the plumber's tape on the thru-hull to elbow connection?

I think. Tape or Putty, they are just a lubricant to help tighten the fitting. They are not a sealant. I was able to get plenty of threaded contact. The ball valve is quite heavy. You will also want to use 3M 5200 sealant where the TH comes thru the hull; on the outside and inside of the hole. Outside is obvious, but inside is recommended to keep water in the bilge from getting inside the hole and soaking into the raw fiberglass you just cut through.

beatle78
03-20-2008, 07:01 PM
ok, gotcha. Thanks!!

Is that a rubber gasket I see underneath the nut on the thru-hull?

Rich_G
03-21-2008, 12:14 AM
ok, gotcha. Thanks!!

Is that a rubber gasket I see underneath the nut on the thru-hull?

No, that must be a little bit of plumbers putty that squeezed out. I think you want the locking nut pretty snug up against the inside of the hull. The 3M sealant also bonds the TH to outside of the hull; I read the specs on that stuff and it has a high PSI adhesion strength; you can put it in water right away but it takes 7 days to fully cure. Here is what it looks like from under the hull

beatle78
03-21-2008, 12:49 PM
OK, just to be clear, did you use 5200 on the inside of the hull as well?(Between the hull and nut)

Or do I just use the 5200 between the scoop and the outside of the hull?

The I use putty/plumbers tape on the nut and any other plumbing connection after that?

thanks!

beatle78
03-24-2008, 12:36 PM
ok, the TH came in from go2marine this weekend. :) Thanks!

Do I want to use 1.5" or 1" spa hose?

I was thinking 1.5" spa hose from the shutoff to the manifold would yield the best results. Then if I just buy a 50' roll I could use the rest of the 1.5" from the manifold to the bags.

Thoughts?

http://www.hottubessentials.com/spa_parts_flex_hose.asp

etakk7
03-24-2008, 01:38 PM
can you post a pic or description of your manifold? I'm thinking about re-tooling mine in the next couple weeks, I'm not happy with how secure it is.

beatle78
03-24-2008, 03:46 PM
I haven't worked out the exact design, but my thought was to do something like this in order to get my 4 ports needed for the 4 pumps.

What don't you like about your manifold?

etakk7
03-24-2008, 05:04 PM
getting that contraption to fit might be a struggle, have you tried placing it in the boat? I like the shape of my manifold but I struggled with the connections between the plumbing (like you have pictured above) and the pump. It lasted about half the summer then they started loosen up and leak a little. The root of the problem was where I "jammed" the plastic nut into the pipe. I used some thru-hull bond but it didn't hold. I was able to reinforce them with duct tape of all things and get them watertight and secure but I'd like to come up with something a little more secure. I love how easy it is to disassemble my system in case of a problem but getting that nut more secure is a priority.

Rich_G
03-24-2008, 06:04 PM
OK, just to be clear, did you use 5200 on the inside of the hull as well?(Between the hull and nut)

Or do I just use the 5200 between the scoop and the outside of the hull?

The I use putty/plumbers tape on the nut and any other plumbing connection after that?

thanks!

Yes, in addition to the outside, it is recommended that you use the 5200 on the inside where the TH comes thru the hole. Apparently, this is the what a mfg does when they cut a hole in a boat. This keeps water in the bilge from getting into the hole and going into the fiberglass; possibly causing blisters.

I think 1.5" ID flexible pvc after the manifold would be overkill. The output on each pump is 1 1/8" and the opening on the bag is 1". So I don't know if there would be any benefit.

My system is all 1.5" supplying the manifold, but is 1" after it splits and comes out of each pump. After my bronze shut-off valve, I have a 1.5" manual gate valve. To connect the manifold to the gate valve, I used a 1.5" rubber coupler. It's just one of those black rubber hoses with steel clamps on each end; you can get them from any hardware store.

beatle78
03-24-2008, 11:04 PM
Yes, in addition to the outside, it is recommended that you use the 5200 on the inside where the TH comes thru the hole. Apparently, this is the what a mfg does when they cut a hole in a boat. This keeps water in the bilge from getting into the hole and going into the fiberglass; possibly causing blisters.

I think 1.5" ID flexible pvc after the manifold would be overkill. The output on each pump is 1 1/8" and the opening on the bag is 1". So I don't know if there would be any benefit.

My system is all 1.5" supplying the manifold, but is 1" after it splits and comes out of each pump. After my bronze shut-off valve, I have a 1.5" manual gate valve. To connect the manifold to the gate valve, I used a 1.5" rubber coupler. It's just one of those black rubber hoses with steel clamps on each end; you can get them from any hardware store.

OK, 1" hose it is. Saves me some $$ too :)

What is a 1.5" manual gate valve?

beatle78
03-24-2008, 11:07 PM
getting that contraption to fit might be a struggle, have you tried placing it in the boat? I like the shape of my manifold but I struggled with the connections between the plumbing (like you have pictured above) and the pump. It lasted about half the summer then they started loosen up and leak a little. The root of the problem was where I "jammed" the plastic nut into the pipe. I used some thru-hull bond but it didn't hold. I was able to reinforce them with duct tape of all things and get them watertight and secure but I'd like to come up with something a little more secure. I love how easy it is to disassemble my system in case of a problem but getting that nut more secure is a priority.

No I didn't lay it out yet, but I was thinking of running the manifold vertically instead of horizontally like you showed in your pics on wakesiderides.

As I get farther along, I'll take some pics with some ideas I come up with and we can brainstorm a new design for both of our systems :)

etakk7
03-24-2008, 11:18 PM
i take it by mounting it vertically you would need to be moving to fill?

beatle78
03-25-2008, 10:21 AM
i take it by mounting it vertically you would need to be moving to fill?

I thought that the pumps would create enough suction to prime. Am I wrong?

In the next couple of weeks, I plan on doing some bathtub experiments with different setups to see what does work and what doesn't.

etakk7
03-25-2008, 11:07 AM
maybe i'm mistaken on what you mean when you say vertical. I was questioning whether this takes the pump above the water line, in which case the only way the pumps will work is if the boat is moving and water is being forced above the water line by the scupper.

Rich_G
03-25-2008, 11:40 AM
I thought that the pumps would create enough suction to prime. Am I wrong?

Aerator pumps are not self-priming; meaning they will "push" the water that is supplied to them, but they won't "pull" water up. An aerator style ballast system needs to have the manifold below the water line.

Here is a write-up on WW a year ago when I did my system. It shows how I placed my manifold.

http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/441538.html?1178123510

About the gate valve. It is described in the writeup. I put it in there so I didn't have to raise the hatch to shut off the system. It is a second valve, right after the bronze shut-off. It is just a "convenience" shut-off, not a full safety shut-off. It's just plastic.

beatle78
03-25-2008, 01:46 PM
ok, yah you guys are right. What I was thinking was going to be above the waterline..... grrr....

I like the manifold you put together Rich! It looks pretty rugged. I would just need to add a 3rd wye adapter for the 4th bag......

Eric, do you think that manifold would work better for you?

hopefully I can get that to fit.

Rich, I see 3 pumps in your design. Do you have a bow sac and a center sac? If so where did you put the 4th pump?

I was thinking about putting the 4th pump in the center drain hole, but I like the idea of having all 4 pumps together in one location.

beatle78
03-25-2008, 01:48 PM
Rich, are those WYE's in your manifold 1.5"?

etakk7
03-25-2008, 02:08 PM
ok, yah you guys are right. What I was thinking was going to be above the waterline..... grrr....

I like the manifold you put together Rich! It looks pretty rugged. I would just need to add a 3rd wye adapter for the 4th bag......

Eric, do you think that manifold would work better for you?

hopefully I can get that to fit.

Rich, I see 3 pumps in your design. Do you have a bow sac and a center sac? If so where did you put the 4th pump?

I was thinking about putting the 4th pump in the center drain hole, but I like the idea of having all 4 pumps together in one location.


I'll have to take a look at Rich's in detail. I have a fourth pump in the center drain hole but I'm thinking about removing it. It is extremely difficult to get all the water drained out the back hole, it requires being on a very steep incline, more than the boat launches that I use. As a result, it always takes me forever to find a place to drain, and it never gets totally dry. I'm thinking of sharing the pump that feeds the integrated bow sac with the center sac. I think the time between filling the front two together will be similar to how long it takes to fill the back sacs anyway. The root of the problem is that the bilge pump only pumps water if there is enough to prime it, which doesn't get the bottom as dry as I would like, especially considering the issues with the tranny and steering cables due to bilge water in this hull.

etakk7
03-25-2008, 02:17 PM
Rich, how are your pumps attached to the manifold openings?

Rich_G
03-25-2008, 02:48 PM
I only have 3 bags; 2 rear & 1 in the floor locker; so only 3 pumps. I think you could add a 4th to the manifold..., I would try to "Y" of of one of the "Y"s.

All of the manifold is 1.5" pvc. You can't see it in the pics, but leading from the shut-off valve to the manifold is a couple of 22 1/2 degree pvc angle pieces custom fitted so that the manifold lays flat on the floor. The last connection is a 1.5" black rubber coupling.

The Rule pumps have a standard 1" threaded male input. I glued a threaded bushing into each of the "Y" openings, then I just screw the pump into the bushing.

beatle78
03-25-2008, 03:14 PM
ohhhhhhh.... the Tsunami pumps that I bought have 1-1/8" thread. Am I gonna have a problem finding a fitting for the "Y" that has 1-1/8" threads?

Could I just drill and tap the 1" threaded bushing and make it a 1-1/8" bushing?

beatle78
03-25-2008, 03:16 PM
The root of the problem is that the bilge pump only pumps water if there is enough to prime it, which doesn't get the bottom as dry as I would like, especially considering the issues with the tranny and steering cables due to bilge water in this hull.

Yah, I just boat a boat lift this year so when I dock the boat I was planning on pulling the drain plug to get all the bilge water out. That's another reason why I didn't want to put a pump in that hole.

etakk7
03-25-2008, 03:21 PM
The Rule pumps have a standard 1" threaded male input. I glued a threaded bushing into each of the "Y" openings, then I just screw the pump into the bushing.



That's exactly what I did but it ended up coming loose. Maybe I'll glue a little more aggressively this time.

etakk7
03-25-2008, 03:27 PM
ohhhhhhh.... the Tsunami pumps that I bought have 1-1/8" thread. Am I gonna have a problem finding a fitting for the "Y" that has 1-1/8" threads?

Could I just drill and tap the 1" threaded bushing and make it a 1-1/8" bushing?

I'm pretty sure Rich has done the same thing as I have - but the pumps come with a threaded bushing - in the case of the Tsunami 1200's have a 1 1/8 thread. We glued the bushing into the "Y" pipe so that the pump can thread into the "Y." Good luck finding anything in the 1 1/8" size.

beatle78
03-25-2008, 03:36 PM
Erik, are the threads in your "Y" manifold 1-1/8" inch?

How did you get the tsunami pump threaded into the "Y"?

etakk7
03-25-2008, 03:39 PM
Erik, are the threads in your "Y" manifold 1-1/8" inch?

How did you get the tsunami pump threaded into the "Y"?

Hey, I recognize that rug!

See the post above, those are the nuts (or bushings - not sure what they are called) that came with the Tsunami 1200's. As you can see in my write-up, I whitled them down a bit on the edges to fit inside the pipe.

beatle78
03-25-2008, 03:42 PM
Erik,

I think a solution to the 1-1/8" fitting on the Tsunami's would be to drill out a standard 1" bushing and retap the thread to 1-1/8". I think we will get a much better fit with no leaks.

See the "Slip Threaded Bushings - Spigot x Fips - #438" the 1-1/2" with 1" threads(See Link)

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvc.html#bush

Thoughts?

etakk7
03-25-2008, 03:58 PM
I think that would be ideal but how would you retap plastic to 1 1/8?


I'm not convinced it would be worth the trouble for me now. If I could have it back I would probably have used a hole saw to get a perfect trim of the outside of the nut instead of whittling it with a knife. But now that I'm where I'm at, I think I'll use 5200 and glue the heck out of that nut into place. Then I'll glue the unthreaded bushing (used as a spacer basically) into place as well. Lastly, I'll probably use some black duct tape (so it doesn't look like duck tape :)) and go around everything so it doesn't get jolted around.

If you have an easy answer for #1 above I may go that direction though.

beatle78
03-25-2008, 04:25 PM
Couldn't we just use a 1-1/8" tap and create our own threads?

Like this guy did here. http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/EVS/reservoirs.htm

etakk7
03-25-2008, 05:14 PM
do you envision using a boring bit to drill the old threads out? This is beyond my expertise, I've never used a tap before.

Rich_G
03-25-2008, 07:35 PM
I knew there was an old thread on WW with this exact same topic. The guy that started the thread, Trace, is a ballast expert, and wrote one of the first how-to articles on DIY ballast installs. Here is how he tackled the 1 1/8 fittings. I can't answer any questions about his system, I am just passing this info along:

http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/341405.html

M-Funf
03-25-2008, 07:39 PM
Didn't wesgardner used to be a regular on this site?

Iman
03-25-2008, 09:29 PM
Not that I'm an expert, but that looks extremely complex and prone to failures to me. I take it that you're using 8 pumps, most systems that I see use 1 or 2 self-priming Simer? type pumps.

I only use two sacs, but I use one 2400 gph Rule pump to the sacs and one 1000?gph Walmart special in each sac for pump out. I don't use any vents and used my existing bilge TH for my outgoing water. I often have problems with my outgoing pumps picking up prime.

Remember that these type pumps will allow water and air to pass thru them when not running so you'll have to use alot of directional valves. I got the fewer leaks by just pushing (with pipe sealer or teflon tape) my pipe or pump into the sac and clamping than I did using the screw ons. Wakeworld had a good diagram in it's old articles at one point. Good luck!!

beatle78
03-26-2008, 09:29 AM
Hi Iman,

Welcome to TT.

I think the PVC manifold will work fine once we figure out the best way to tackle this 1-1/8" thread issue.

If I were to do this again I would have ordered the pumps that Rich ordered since they have a 1" thread. His manifold looks rock solid to me.

If you're talking about these pumps, I would still need 4 of them at a cost of $1,000... OUCH!

http://www.wakeside.com/product/boat/ballast/ballast_pumps/jabsco+wakeboard+ballast+puppy+reversible+pump.do

I bought all 8 pumps for ~$300.

beatle78
03-26-2008, 09:30 AM
I knew there was an old thread on WW with this exact same topic. The guy that started the thread, Trace, is a ballast expert, and wrote one of the first how-to articles on DIY ballast installs. Here is how he tackled the 1 1/8 fittings. I can't answer any questions about his system, I am just passing this info along:

http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/341405.html

sweet, thanks Rich. I went to Home Depot last night, but they had a horrible selection of PVC parts. I'm going to have to go to a plumbing supply house.

beatle78
04-22-2008, 07:45 PM
Update: I'm bailing on using the Tsunami 1200's for the fill manifold. I'm going to order 4 Rule 1100's for the manifold. I'll keep 4 Tsunami's for the drain pumps.

I'm going to copy Rich's manifold design. The only difference is my manifold will have 4 pumps, not 3.

beatle78
04-28-2008, 01:12 PM
Are all 1-1/2" Brass ball valves the same? Will the ones I have posted below work?

In some ads I see "full port", but I didn't see it say that on these.

Stockham 600CWP / 150SWP Brass Ball Valves - Threaded End
Size 1-1/2 Weight 2.47KGS

Thanks,
beatle

beatle78
04-28-2008, 03:41 PM
These are the switches I'm going to order: the SPDT non-momentary switches.

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=113221F

Chas
04-28-2008, 03:58 PM
Wow, that looks like the perfect switch!! Waterproof, shockproof, thermal shock proof, ignition sealed, lighted -

If it just had one more feature -

"self installing"
http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structure/1/1/3/2/113221F-p.jpg


it would be a dream come true....

beatle78
05-05-2008, 04:02 PM
Wow, that looks like the perfect switch!! Waterproof, shockproof, thermal shock proof, ignition sealed, lighted -

If it just had one more feature -

"self installing"

it would be a dream come true....

hehe yah that would be great!

Based on another post, the factory MC switch covers should fit on these switches if I want a complete factory look.

beatle78
05-26-2008, 06:52 PM
Hi guys,

Looking at etakk's pic

http://www.wakesiderides.com/rides/index.php?page=out&id=2282

and Rich's pic

http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/441538.html?1178123510

It looks like they drilled the thru hull hole right below the starter in the flat square area.

I noticed on my setup the transducer for the depth finder is in the flat square section under the starter. It's loose anyway so I don't mind moving it.

Should I move the transducer and put the thru hull there? Is that where the stock thru hull went for boats that were ordered with a ballast system?

thanks!

etakk7
06-05-2008, 02:11 PM
beatle, do those switches have the on/off/on setup or are you mounting 8 switches (ie. seperate one for each fill and empty)?

beatle78
06-07-2008, 11:06 AM
beatle, do those switches have the on/off/on setup or are you mounting 8 switches (ie. seperate one for each fill and empty)?

etakk7,

they have ON-OFF-ON, so I am going to mount 4 of them right where the factory ballast switches would go.

Where did you cut the hole in the bottom of your boat for the ballast intake?

etakk7
06-09-2008, 10:41 AM
where the indentation is in the hull - port side

beatle78
06-10-2008, 09:02 AM
where the indentation is in the hull - port side

ok, you mean the indentation on the inside of the hull right? I'll have to move the puck for the depth finder.

The reason I ask is there is also an indentation on the bottom of the hull on the port side, but I didn't check to see where that lined up yet.

thanks!

beatle78
07-08-2008, 10:50 PM
OK, so I FINALLY got to start the ballast install. It would have gotten farther along except I didn't plan on the 90 elbow hitting the bell housing on the tranny:mad:

I have to grind down the top of the 90 in order to clear the bell housing. I started grinding but I got too ambitious and ground through to the other side....

If you are installing your own ballast on this hull MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE THRU HULL TOWARDS THE STERN!

I centered the hole in the middle of the square indentation under the starter.

some pics of the process....

beatle78
07-08-2008, 10:50 PM
another .......................

beatle78
07-08-2008, 10:55 PM
the 90 grinded!

beatle78
07-09-2008, 10:42 PM
I said heck with it, the plumbing supply store was out of 90's so I put some pipe dope and teflon tape on the threads and it doesn't seem to be leaking.

redraider08
08-17-2012, 06:37 PM
Hey guys, came across this thread when searching for information to do a ballast install on my 2000 X-Star. How did the project turn out?