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View Full Version : What is, and where does thuis wire go!!!!!!


Matt L.
02-28-2008, 10:40 PM
90 240sc w/ HO454

Located this wire just hanging out behind the circuit breaker box on the back of the engine. See Pic.

I've had ongoing ignitions problem starting with grenade going off in my 17 year old distributer spring 07.

Sent off the perTronix Ignitor II today to be tested, new dist already an pulled starter to deal with resistance from corrosion on connections.

Thanks!

Matt

Monte
02-28-2008, 11:00 PM
90 240sc w/ HO454

Located this wire just hanging out behind the circuit breaker box on the back of the engine. See Pic.

I've had ongoing ignitions problem starting with grenade going off in my 17 year old distributer spring 07.

Sent off the perTronix Ignitor II today to be tested, new dist already an pulled starter to deal with resistance from corrosion on connections.

Thanks!

Matt

There has to be a blue wire somewhere else. It is running to something.. The best advice I can give you is to trace it/ Look under the dash for a blue wire/ Look under the engine cover for a blue wire.

In my experience it was the light accessory on the gauges..

Somebody else who knows more will be along shortly..

MCPS205
02-28-2008, 11:25 PM
might be the trim sensor sending wire... which would not be used on your boat.

rholmes
02-29-2008, 12:48 AM
I don't have a a 240sc 454, but i do have a 210 with the 351. I'll see if I can't take a peak at it tomorrow or Saturday and see if I have the same thing (sorry, it's in storage).

H20skeefreek
02-29-2008, 07:22 AM
According to boat builder standards it is:

Starting Switch to Solenoid

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/wiring/wiring.htm

Matt L.
02-29-2008, 09:49 PM
So what color wire would be on the other side of the circuit breaker box where the yellow and red one goes?

I could still start like this, but had low voltage running from the starter to the coil (<9volts). I think the low voltage led to my pertronix acting up.

Thanks,

Matt

Matt L.
02-29-2008, 09:53 PM
According to boat builder standards it is:

Starting Switch to Solenoid


So does that mean the yellow and red wire should only be energized when cranking? Or is it hot all the time, or just with the ignition in the on position?

Easter at the lake this year! If the boat runs!!!

Thanks,

Matt

H20skeefreek
02-29-2008, 11:40 PM
I think......but I don't know.....where is JimN when you need him?

JimN
03-06-2008, 09:05 AM
Yellow/red is usually the crank lead from the ignition switch. I see the solenoid at the bottom of the photo and it looks like it'll reach- Look in the bilge for a nut and washer that would fit the post on the solenoid, and test the wire for voltage- use a test light or multi-meter and it should be energized while cranking ONLY. If that's the case connect it to the solenoid post and crank- it should turn over.

JimN
03-06-2008, 09:06 AM
Monte- what blue wire are you referring to? The one that's disconnected is yellow/red.

Monte
03-06-2008, 09:09 AM
Monte- what blue wire are you referring to? The one that's disconnected is yellow/red.

I saw that after I posted. I was having flashbacks to my own problem.. My wiring issue was a blue wire that gave me a fit... Sorry:(

Monte
03-06-2008, 09:14 AM
BTW Jimn is correct on the yellow/ red wire mine goes to the ignition switch...

Matt L.
03-08-2008, 05:07 PM
BTW Jimn is correct on the yellow/ red wire mine goes to the ignition switch...

Monte,

Thanks for the help! So are you saying that the yellow/red wire runs from the ignition switch straight to the starter solenoid. Or does it pass through the circuit breaker block and then to the solenoid?

I really don't think it came off the solenoid based on where it is. Its position suggests that it came off at the circuit breaker block.

I was in that area monkeying around to get that Accell coil fitted up. Made a pretty sweet bracket from the old bracket fro a round coil in the vain attempt to save a lake trip. Didn't solve a dang thing.

Fires right up seems to run perfect without a load. Put it in the water and hit the throttle and it bogs down so bad it can't even get out of the hole. thought it was a bad coil. Nope. I was getting a low (7.5V) voltage to the coil which could produce that result according to pertronics with an Igniter II. I sent the Igniter II in for testing JIC.

Thanks,

Matt

thijs
03-08-2008, 07:29 PM
Well if you have the jet drive it is the wire going to the flux capacitor.

TMCNo1
03-08-2008, 07:29 PM
Question,
Have you installed electronic ignition in the distributor?
Are you using the Accel coil instead of an round 12V cvonventional coil?
Have you bypassed the ballast resistor to get 12V to the coil?

Just curious!

Matt L.
03-11-2008, 12:01 AM
Question,
Have you installed electronic ignition in the distributor?
Are you using the Accel coil instead of an round 12V cvonventional coil?
Have you bypassed the ballast resistor to get 12V to the coil?

Just curious!

Yes, I converted several years ago to a PerTronix Igniter II.

I swapped out the old round Accell coil for the new square one. Thought I had a bad coil so I started throwing parts at it in a vain attempt to save a lake trip.

Bypassed the ballast resistor when the PerTronics Igniter II was installed per their instructions.

Any suggestions are welcome!

Later,

Matt

Hunterb
03-11-2008, 04:27 PM
The yellow/red wire should be coming from your ignition switch and be 'hot' when the key is in the cranking position. It should go to the wiring block and then to the starter solenoid. I'm not sure how your boat starts without it connected. What's hooked up to your solenoid now?

Looking at your original problem, which appears to be a 'stumbling out of the hole' issue I would be inclined to look for a fuel problem.

Bruce

Matt L.
03-11-2008, 11:19 PM
The yellow/red wire should be coming from your ignition switch and be 'hot' when the key is in the cranking position. It should go to the wiring block and then to the starter solenoid. I'm not sure how your boat starts without it connected. What's hooked up to your solenoid now?

Looking at your original problem, which appears to be a 'stumbling out of the hole' issue I would be inclined to look for a fuel problem.

Bruce

It all started when the distributer blew-up. I was running WOT and perfectly when the distributor ate its self. Since then I've been having the problems.

Fuel pressure and flow will be tested as soon as it goes back together.

Thanks!

Matt

Matt L.
03-13-2008, 12:33 AM
PerTronix Ignitor back and tested good at the factory!

All connections at the Solenoid and relay were really corroded. Prior owner had doused the connections in red liquid electrical tape looking stuff. Appears to have held the moisture on the parts.

Everywhere that crap was put on was severely corroded. Untouched parts were much less corroded.

Leaning toward resistance reducing the feed voltage to the coil. PerTronics said the low input voltage will produce the effect I've been having.

Skidim has the relay but doesn't show the solenoid, I'll have to call them.

Later,

Matt

pkreusch
03-13-2008, 12:57 PM
In your picture at the bottom is what appears to be your starter solenoid. It routes the high amperage current to the starter via a small current that pulls an electromagnetic contact together.

One large stud on that solenoid (approx. 3/8") is connected to the battery cable positive lead, the other large stud is connected to the starter. This leaves either 1 or 2 small studs left (approx. #10 stud) depending on the solenoid model. If there's only one, that's the one it would connect to. If there's 2 small studs, look for the one marked "I".

All this assumes that the wire comes from the back of your key switch.

Hope this helps.

pkreusch
03-13-2008, 01:02 PM
Just read some of the other posts and thought I would clarify. hunterb is probably on the right track, it should connect to the terminal block. Look for the terminal block screw that has the other end connected to the solenoid as described in my last post.

P......

Upper Michigan Prostar190
03-13-2008, 01:06 PM
90 240sc w/ HO454

Located this wire just hanging out behind the circuit breaker box on the back of the engine. See Pic.

I've had ongoing ignitions problem starting with grenade going off in my 17 year old distributer spring 07.

Sent off the perTronix Ignitor II today to be tested, new dist already an pulled starter to deal with resistance from corrosion on connections.

Thanks!

Matt


Has to do with where choo-choo go.

Hunterb
03-13-2008, 04:27 PM
I'm still curious as to how the engine starts with that wire not connected. How is power getting from the key to the solenoid? Matt, have you checked to see if you have an orange wire running from the solenoid to your distributor. I think your original system would have had one and it was there to provide a full 12 volts to the distributor during cranking only. Once the engine was running the distributor received something less than 12 volts thanks to the ballast resistor. The idea was to prolong the life of the points. You don't need it once you switch to electronic ignition so it should have been removed. But, on my boat, the PO had left that wire in place and it may have been the cause of some strange things with my ignition. If it's there still I would remove it. It shouldn't cause your symptoms, but it would be better it it wasn't there.

Good luck. Make sure to post when you figure it out.

Bruce

Hunterb
03-13-2008, 04:36 PM
I could still start like this, but had low voltage running from the starter to the coil (<9volts). I think the low voltage led to my pertronix acting up.

Hmmmm. See my earlier post about an orange wire. I assume you mean from your solenoid to the coil, not the starter to the coil. You have removed your ballast resistor haven't you?

Bruce

Matt L.
03-14-2008, 12:11 AM
yep, I was only getting 7.5 volts up to the coil. PerTronics needs at least 9 volts to function properly.

New solenoid, relay, wires and connectors should fix that problem. I'm going to run all new batt wiring too.

Later,

Matt

Hunterb
03-26-2008, 04:39 PM
Matt,

I'm not sure if you figured this out or not yet but I looked at mine last night to see exactly where my wires go. The yellow/red stripe wire comes from the ignition to the terminal block as I thought. The wire on the opposite side of the terminal block however is solid white and it goes to the neutral safety switch and then to the solenoid. I don't know if that is factory wiring or not. If you connect the yellow/red stripe wire directly to the solenoid you should get proper ignition, but you will be bypassing the neutral safety switch.

Not sure if that helps. I'm afraid I may have confused you earlier. Sorry about that.

Bruce

Matt L.
03-29-2008, 02:40 AM
Matt,

I'm not sure if you figured this out or not yet but I looked at mine last night to see exactly where my wires go. The yellow/red stripe wire comes from the ignition to the terminal block as I thought. The wire on the opposite side of the terminal block however is solid white and it goes to the neutral safety switch and then to the solenoid. I don't know if that is factory wiring or not. If you connect the yellow/red stripe wire directly to the solenoid you should get proper ignition, but you will be bypassing the neutral safety switch.

Not sure if that helps. I'm afraid I may have confused you earlier. Sorry about that.

Bruce


Thanks Bruce!

That sure makes sense as an effective Neutral Safety switch setup. I've only got 1 pic showing any of the other side of the breaker block. I think I can see a bit of white. So that may be where it goes

I just finished rewiring the new starter relay and solenoid with all marine grade tinned copper wire and marine grade connectors crimped and soldered and shrink tubed with self sealing shrink tubing. and DeOXit Gold coating on all connections to prevent corrosion and decrease resistance. I also bumped up the wire gauge one level. All 10 went to 8 gauge, and the coil power wire up to 12 gauge.

Next weekend will see it running again!

Thanks!

Matt

wsrobert
04-04-2008, 07:15 AM
I also have a '90 Maristar 240sc with a 454. I looked at mine this morning and the yellow/red wire does indeed attach to the terminal block. On the other is a white wire that goes to the starter solenoid. I'll get some pics and post later this morning. I actually have a project today to draw up an electrical schematic for my entire boat, b/c I have a short somewhere and haven't been able to find it.

BTW...H20skeefreek, that website is awesome. Thanks!!!

JimN
04-04-2008, 10:09 AM
What is your boat doing? The cause could be an open in the circuit instead of a short.

amber 6
05-17-2008, 07:04 PM
could someone post a picture of the solenoid and the wires going to it so that I can check mine is the same I have two red cables at the top with one red cable at the bottom going to the starter. left post is a white wire and right post is orange?

Cloaked
05-17-2008, 09:39 PM
could someone post a picture of the solenoid and the wires going to it so that I can check mine is the same I have two red cables at the top with one red cable at the bottom going to the starter. left post is a white wire and right post is orange?
...........

.

maristar 240 dave
07-12-2009, 03:12 PM
What a helpful schematic!! Does anyone know where I could get one of these for a 92 chevy indmar 454? This kind of stuff isnt in my owners manual.

JimN
07-12-2009, 03:50 PM
What a helpful schematic!! Does anyone know where I could get one of these for a 92 chevy indmar 454? This kind of stuff isnt in my owners manual.

There's not much reason for yours to be very different from this.