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cbryan70
02-04-2008, 11:22 PM
Found a teak i can pick up its from a older cc but a barefoot version which has a wider hull. How hard will it be to make the teak smaller?

H20skeefreek
02-04-2008, 11:42 PM
You could have my mom wash and dry it, she was always able to shrink all of my clothes when I was growing up.

Monte
02-04-2008, 11:50 PM
Found a teak i can pick up its from a older cc but a barefoot version which has a wider hull. How hard will it be to make the teak smaller?

I'd use a jigsaw and a lot of sand paper:)

cbryan70
02-05-2008, 12:10 AM
yeah yeah but getting it back together to look decent it my concern

h2oskifreak
02-05-2008, 12:31 AM
I resized one from a larger transon and it isn't that hard. Cut a cardboard template and see how it lines up with the existing screws that support the structure. Mine was ideal, so all I needed was a fine jig saw and a belt sander. If you start getting into dowells and biscuits it will be another story. Template is the key to evaluate what you have going. The template will also let you know how it will align to your transom in addition to how much alteration will be needed.

cbryan70
02-05-2008, 12:49 AM
I resized one from a larger transon and it isn't that hard. Cut a cardboard template and see how it lines up with the existing screws that support the structure. Mine was ideal, so all I needed was a fine jig saw and a belt sander. If you start getting into dowells and biscuits it will be another story. Template is the key to evaluate what you have going. The template will also let you know how it will align to your transom in addition to how much alteration will be needed.

I would be making brackets for the teak as i havea fiberglass platform on my boat now. What do you mean getting into dowells and biscuits? Did you just cut the teak in half and resize accordingly? Im pretty sure the width is going to be a bit long for my boat

h2oskifreak
02-05-2008, 09:32 AM
If you are just cutting a little the structure should stay in tact. My platform wasn't that big to begin with. If you get severe in mods., then you may have issues with support dowells or "biscuits" (a way to join smaller pieces into one larger one". I also made my brackets. I had again a template out of cardboard. I used alum., not as good as stainless, but a whole lot lighter. P.M. me your e-mail and I think I have some photos of the brackets and maybe some of the platform. I also "built up" the inside of my transom w/ glass to make it stronger. My boat is a 75 S & S.

cbryan70
02-05-2008, 10:14 AM
i am going to make the cardboard template the guy who has it also has a 77 mc with a teak which im going to go off to see what mods i would have to make. he has a 454 bored out to a 502 in his 77! If it wont work im still going to recondition it and either sell it or make it into a bar for my uncle

stuartmcnair
02-05-2008, 11:43 AM
when you do the cuts with the jigsaw...leave about 1/8th of an inch of material outside the cutting line...get the rest of the material off with a belt sander or a drum sander if you have access to one...takes longer but less chance of a mistake

JohnE
02-05-2008, 12:35 PM
when you do the cuts with the jigsaw...leave about 1/8th of an inch of material outside the cutting line...get the rest of the material off with a belt sander or a drum sander if you have access to one...takes longer but less chance of a mistake

Good advice.

Sodar
02-05-2008, 12:46 PM
when you do the cuts with the jigsaw...leave about 1/8th of an inch of material outside the cutting line...get the rest of the material off with a belt sander or a drum sander if you have access to one...takes longer but less chance of a mistake

If it were me doing it, I would do it the same way I used to make my skateboards. I would make a template out of 1/4" MDF. Cut the platform just as stuart said (about 1/8-1/4" larger than the template). Then clamp the template onto the platform. Go and find a big router with a 1/2" shank and a top bearing flush trim bit (like the diagram 1 below). Run the baby around the platform followed by a bearing round over bit and you will have a perfectly square and true platform. The reason I would worry about the belt sander is that you are going to have a tough time getting a true 90 degree angle edge.

Diagram #1
http://www.freudtools.com/images/product/large/177.jpg

Diagram #2
http://www.freudtools.com/images/product/large/144.jpg

stuartmcnair
02-05-2008, 01:25 PM
yeah, the edge would be the problem with a belt...that's why I suggested a drum if he had access...the router would work well too, assuming your pattern was good.

h2oskifreak
02-05-2008, 02:35 PM
One other item, I heald mine about 1/2 inch away from the transom. It is a fairly tight platform and this gives a little more room for h2o pressure to not build in rocking waters. Good luck. That big block has got to be scary in such a little boat, scary=fun!

cbryan70
02-05-2008, 03:10 PM
Well i went and DUG the teak out of the snow with plants all around it. looks to be about 8 inches to wide and about one teak slot to long. My dad knows a guy that does wood work on the side. Let me tell you if i can bring this thing back to life it may be the biggest restore on tmc! The good thing it looks like the 8 inches may not be to bad as there are two spacer teak blocks in between the 8 inches so i would just have to cut the 8 inches out get it to a true fit then put a board under it for support. and remove one of the horizontal peices of teak and fit it again it may work...if not there is always a need for a teak bar. The teak it is off of is a old ski natique barefoot.


If anyone wants a serious restor......no engine would need all new seating im sure you can get this thing for.....dang close to free. it also would need a new windshild and.....maybe a prop if it will fit my boat as a spare! :-)