View Full Version : Prop Removal

03-20-2005, 10:30 PM
I bought the Acme prop removal kit (weekender kit) and was trying to use the Harmonic puller to get the OJ legend off. No such luck, it is really on there!! Any recommendations to get that prop off there?

03-20-2005, 11:03 PM
Use the prop puller, tighten the puller then heat the prop where it goes on the shaft with a torch. If you do not have a big tourch go buy a small one. Get MAP GAS, Yellow bottle, it is much hotter than propane. Get it good and hot then rap it with a hammer. Usually does the trick.

03-21-2005, 03:11 PM
I changed mine about two weeks ago.
I didnt have a prop puller.
I used a propane cylinder( used to solder plumbing pipes)
It didnt take long heating it, and then lightly tapping with a hammer.
It jumped right off.

( dont forget the prop is HOT!!!!! ) :noface:

03-21-2005, 08:38 PM

I have the same boat and replacing the prop as well, did you use a torque wench to tighten the prop? If so what did you torque it to?

03-21-2005, 10:24 PM

03-22-2005, 10:35 AM
Thanks Sporty

03-22-2005, 10:52 AM
Mine had a brass nut with the plastic inside. After multiple removals. It is kind of loose. I will be purchaseing a new one. All Brass with notches.
I did not torque too tight. But I did add a cotter pin.

03-26-2005, 09:22 PM

Still can't get the prop off!! Put a propane torch to it and still wont budge, hit it with a hammer and beat the snot out of the harmonic dampener. Nothing!! Help!!

03-26-2005, 10:06 PM
i had same problem getting prop off. purchased a $10 propane portable tourch and heated. beat on rear of prop with a hammer and block of wood. nothing!!! sound familiar? repeated and still nothing. again, same result. finally, decided all those having success with this method cannot be wrong, so heated the squat out of prop being sure to heat not only the end but the entire length of prop shaft also in between blades. hit twice and popped off. so, moral of story is that you really need to get the prop hot to the extent that the ends of the blades are too hot to touch. i was figuring originally should take 5-10 minutes or so, but wound up taking 1 hr+. the key seems to be getting the prop shaft really hot which will take time. was 25F when i did it. like others have suggested, prop will pop off so i used a coat hanger inserted into cotter pin hole on drive shaft and be sure to grab prop with good set of pot holders since that puppy is really hot. good luck!

03-26-2005, 10:08 PM
So should I be heating the shaft to? I was just heating the prop

03-26-2005, 10:17 PM
not the drive shaft, but the prop shaft. by that, i mean the outside of the prop where the blades attach which is what i am calling the prop shaft. no need to heat blades since heat will be transferred from prop shaft to blades and drive shaft. it will take time to heat it up, so stay with it and be patient because it will work. remember that it will be really hot and not warm. let me know (pm if you wish) when it works. when i put my prop back on, will probably put something on drive shaft so wont be such an adventure next time.

03-26-2005, 10:23 PM
I heated mine where the arrows are. I did not heat the shaft.

The drawing is not much, but you should be able to figure it out.
It took mine about 10 minutes to get hot enough the first time I removed it.

03-26-2005, 11:08 PM
Cool, thanks everybody! I will give it another whirl soon!

03-26-2005, 11:17 PM
I've never used the ACME harmonic puller, but I've heard others having this same issue. If it won't come off after heating agian, you'll probably have to use a real puller to get it off. I have an OJ puller that works great.

03-27-2005, 01:20 AM
I had the same problem last year. I banged it, torched it, and then finally begged it to come off with the harmonic puller...Never did. Spend the money on the regular puller. It will save you lots of time and energy.

How is something that you bang on a puller anyway?

03-27-2005, 11:26 PM
Well I was at Lowes today and saw a C clamp with split forks on one end. Bought it and tightened the bejeezes out of it on the prop. Sprayed some WD-40 up in the shaft area. Let it sit a while, then heated the prop up to the point the blade tips were very hot. Tightened the C clamp a little more, you could hear it popping ever some lightly like it was loosening. Still no luck so I rapped the crap out of the clamp on the back of the prop, still nothing!!! I tell you I am ready to get the torch out and cut this damn prop off!! :rant:

03-27-2005, 11:35 PM
You need to get that prop so hot it glows. Let it cool and repeat. put tension on it with your puller. Use a block of wood and a hammer, place the wood block on the prop at the shaft and hit wood block with hammer. Drive the prop twords the end of the shaft. Do not be afraid to hit it hard, just try not to hit the blades.

03-28-2005, 12:04 AM
I've never done this with a prop, but will soon. I have removed many flywheels, pullies, etc. Many taps on the part of the prop near the shaft through a piece of wood should help break it loose. Rotate 90 degrees after each hit. Can you hit from the back side?

Farmer Ted
03-28-2005, 08:59 AM

Get some break free and spray it on the fwd portion of the prop so it will work it's way down.

Tighten the harmonic puller until it barely makes contact with your prop

Knock the snot out of the puller and it will break free eventually

If your prop has been on for awhile it will take some work, spary and repeat the knocking

It will come off

I wouldn't heat it to glowing hot, who knows what you're doing to the integrity of the metal

03-28-2005, 09:47 AM
jrandol - thought you would be sitting in the evening sun enjoying a cool one by now and patting yourself on the back for a job well done. having felt your pain with this seemingly no brainer job, i got real fustrated also (worked on pulling prop over 2 weekends!!). all i can say is stay with it and it will come off!!!!!!!! heat is the key. if you got it hot enough so you could not touch the blades (all blades) then you are doing it correctly. i also used a block of wood (6" 2x4) to pound the living squat out of the forward section of the prop (not blade shaft). in fact, i pounded so hard that the 2x4 started splintering. the 2x4 helps discipate the blow more evenly across the forward base of the prop and protects the prop from damage. as someone also relayed, i also rototed the blades being sure to use pot holders or the like since blades are HOT. if it did not break free after 4-5 hard blows, i put the heat to it again. i got my prop so hot that the brass started darkening (note farmer's point about integrity of metal). this was when it finally broke free. one additional piece of advice, stay focused and dont loose your cool or next thing you know a human soft tissue body part will somehow find its way too close to the business end of the hammer and get your attention real quick. this is main reason it took me 2 weekends to remove prop. lastly, i found to get full leverage for delivering accurate blows (and keep from hitting hand)
i needed to be completely under boat lying on back in same plane as boat keel. good luck. when prop goes back on, will put some anti-seizing compound on prop and shaft and perhaps polish shaft and inside of prop with 4x0 emory cloth.

03-28-2005, 10:14 AM
It really shouldn't be that hard:

1) Loosen the nut, but don't remove it completely
2) Tighten the puller
3) Heat the Collar of the prop rotating back and forth from side to side...not the tips.
4) POP...it will shot off and you will be glad you left the nut on. Wait for it to cool.

03-28-2005, 09:13 PM
Got it!! Torqued the crap out of with a c clamp, sprayed some WD-40 in there then torqued it some more. Let it sit for about 10 minutes and then torched it up good. Sure glad I took ya'lls advice on leaving the nut on! Bing that thing came off there good!!

What kind of grease does everyone recommend to put on there to not let the next prop be so tight? Would some marine grease from the grease gun work?

04-02-2005, 12:15 AM
What kind of grease does everyone recommend to put on there to not let the next prop be so tight? Would some marine grease from the grease gun work?

Figured I'd bump this thread to see if anyone could answer this question. My manual calls for putting waterproof multipurpose marine grease on the taper shaft. I was actually thinking of using plumbers grease with is waterproof.

04-02-2005, 06:51 AM

04-02-2005, 06:56 AM
Marine wheel bearring grease, blue in color, plumbers grease or never seize will work. I have used all three in the past. One other thing to keep the prop from sticking is to pull it off at least once a year to keep it loose.

05-21-2006, 08:02 PM
Thought I might add my .02 in on the subject. After launching my boat this weekend and picking up the wife at the dock, I looked down to see how deep it was and looked ok then i looked up and put it in reverse and BANG! The prop hit a rock. Like it had a mind of it's own :confused: So sure enough after idling out a bit i went under to feel the prop and one of the blades was bent. :mad:

Stupid me for not paying more attention. Anyway I came back home and looked up what to do and sure enough I found my answers right here on the forum. This is a great forum. What I found was how to pull off a stuburn prop without the proper tools and no torch.

So I didn't have a prop puller and wanted to get it off today as I am very impatient. So I went over to a buddies house and he had a "bearing puller" not sure what the technical name is but he used it to pull off his bearing on his trailer.

I hooked it up and cranked and cranked and cranked and POW it popped off.

So hopefully that will save someone lots of cash. I think they are only like $35-$40 bucks to buy instead of the $135.

Now to put the spare on. Expensive weekend and didnt even get to go out on it. :(