View Full Version : Prop Guard replacement.

03-20-2005, 10:14 PM
Here are the picts of the prop guard we buildt to replace the missing one on my SMP trailer.

I used 2x2 steel tubing for the drop tubes, 3" C channel for the bottom cross member, and 1" angle iron for the braces.

I have to add castor wheels yet but am not sure how I want to do them.

The folding hitch will be done in a couple of weeks, I am waiting for brake parts. Will post picts when that gets done.

03-20-2005, 10:16 PM
Some more.

03-20-2005, 10:18 PM
next step welding on the guard.

03-20-2005, 10:19 PM
Then the braces.

03-20-2005, 10:24 PM
Finished prop guard. This left me with about 6" clearence when the trailer is level on level ground. I have 2" clearence between the prop and cross member on guard. 7" on sides of prop. :) Trailer painting, light wiring and brakes are also going to be done this summer.

03-20-2005, 10:34 PM
White-Pooch... That is a nice looking custom build. Me being the selfish me that I am ( :D ), may I suggest that you draw up a bill of materials, with specs on each item, i.e material, length, and size of material and any angle preps, and welding process. Did you TIG it or SMAW? It looks like stick welds with about 3/16 " - 3/8" fillets.

I'll be saving the pics for future reference. I may very well try to get the local fab shop here to build me one with the goodness of your time and effort with a BOM. :toast:

Looks great!!! :steering:

03-20-2005, 10:50 PM
For those that want to know. Two 4" pieces of 1" x 1" angle iron1/4" thickness, one piece 3" C channel 3/8" thickness 22 1/2" long, two pieces 2"x2" square tubing 3/8" wall thickness 11 3/4" long.

The angles are going to vary by trailer. This was put on a 1988 SMP tandom trailer and the angle on the drop tubes is 65 degree when measured on the cross member.

This trailer frame is made from 3" and 4" C channel. The drop tubes required two mitered cuts where they attach to the trailer and a single mitered cut on the cross member end. The braces have compound mitered cuts on both ends because of the angle of the trailer frame.

I used a MIG welder. It is a little sloppy as I do not do much welding. The welds are to be ground off when I prep the trailer for painting.

Estimated cost for materials should be under $25.00 from a steel supplier or machine shop.

Labor was about 1 3/4 hours with most of it trying to figure out angles. I did have access to a metal cutting band saw that saved quite a bit of time.

My actual cost was a afternoon working on the boat in my companies shop and digging through the scrap pile to find the steel I needed.:D

Feel free to PM or email me if you want closer measurments.