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View Full Version : Indmar 68-5001 Raw Water Pump - Pricing


rkmason
11-22-2007, 04:07 PM
FYI, I just ordered a replacement raw water pump from J. A. Chamberlain in Fla. The Indmar PN 68-5001 (Johnson F6-B9) pump was $129 vs. $232 for the same item at Discount Inboard Marine. SkiDim is a great place to do business with, but this price difference is WAY too much to ignore. I found this item at multiple places for less than what SkiDim is charging, but nobody was offering it for close to what Chamberlain is charging.

Patrick Hardy
11-22-2007, 05:04 PM
Sweet price, I might order one myself at that price. That beats all of the pricing that I have seen on water pumps. Sort of funny that I have to get a good price from the farthest corner of the country from me - Seattle ?

Jim@BAWS
11-22-2007, 07:06 PM
FYI, I just ordered a replacement raw water pump from J. A. Chamberlain in Fla. The Indmar PN 68-5001 (Johnson F6-B9) pump was $129 vs. $232 for the same item at Discount Inboard Marine. SkiDim is a great place to do business with, but this price difference is WAY too much to ignore. I found this item at multiple places for less than what SkiDim is charging, but nobody was offering it for close to what Chamberlain is charging.

Very Good Price...does it come with an impeller?

This is a good example of shopping price. Many times other members here are referred to SKIDIM....They are not the least expensive all the time. That pump comes in 2 different verisions. 1 with 6 holes and 1 with 3 for the LTR. They both average in price of approx $180.

Thanks for pointing out that SKIDIM IS not always the best choice

Jim@BAWS

rkmason
11-24-2007, 01:45 PM
I have gone back and confirmed with J A Chamberlain that the F6-B9 Johnson pump they sell for $129 is the version with more than 3 thru holes (my current pump has 7 thru holes) in the drive flange where it bolts up to the harmonic damper. They also include an impeller for this price, so it still appears to be a very good deal to me.

Jim, Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I don't like surprises when I open the box on an item like this.

FrankSchwab
11-24-2007, 04:06 PM
I don't like surprises when I open the box on an item like this.

Sounds like you're a prime candidate for purchasing from your local dealer then.

rkmason
11-24-2007, 04:25 PM
No, at my local dealer the big surprise usually comes at the cashier. I did find an area dealer (not my local) that has better MC parts pricing. For the common service parts I tend to use people like SkiDim that seem to be very knowledgeable about their parts. Just have to know the right questions to ask like Jim mentioned above.

Frank, I see you and I have the same boat. How is yours treating you? Mine has about 475hrs without any major problems. (At least nothing that I did not cause myself)

FrankSchwab
11-26-2007, 01:26 AM
Mine's treating me pretty well. Bought it used a couple years ago, and other than some titling hassles with the trailer, I haven't had any serious issues.

Let's see, the minor issues I've had aren't too bad:
1. The gauges suck. Trying to get the dash apart to get to the gauges sucks even worse. Let me know if you ever need to do it, and I'll send a six-pack of beer for you, and a six-pack of ear protectors for your wife, kids, and neighbors. They shouldn't have to listen to that kind of language.

2. Have some leakage from the deck/hull joint when dragging the kids at low speed (both tube and kneeboard). Does a good job of dumping a lot of water into the bilge. Tried to seal the joint, but I'm not sure it worked out well. One of my winter jobs this year is to mount an auxiliary bilge pump in the stern, because excess water in the bilge is bad for our transmissions.

Other than that, I'm pretty happy with it. I wish it had a better slalom wake, but my buddy has a '94 Prostar, so we take his if we're planning on doing the hard stuff. We take mine for the air chair and family rides.

/frank

p.s. Let me know if you have any significant mechanical, electronic, or embedded programming skills. My buddy and I have a winter project in process that could use some additional resources.

rkmason
11-26-2007, 04:32 AM
Interesting, I had left a post on this site weeks ago asking if anyone knew how to take the dash apart but nobody responded. My tach acts funny occasionally. I took a run at removing the dash last winter but did not get very far before I gave up. I had the alternator rebuilt thinking it was putting noise on the power wiring that might be affecting the tach. No effect on the tach problem, but the alternator does work better. They said that one brush was almost completely worn away.

FrankSchwab
11-27-2007, 12:23 AM
Sorry I didn't see it; I would have responded.

To remove the dash, I believe you have to remove the steering wheel assembly, and probably a couple of screws/rivets/latches that hold the entire fascia in place. I tried a "simple" approach, sticking my hand through the slot in the fiberglass and removing the wing nuts that hold the individual panels in place. I was eventually successful, but I would recommend a different approach.

Now that you mention it, I have a "weirdness" with my tach also - occasionally it reads way high or way low. I've always assumed a bad ground or power lead; if you'd seen how the wiring is done, you might assume the same. I've decided that I just don't care too much - I ignore the speedo and the tach, and just use a GPS on the dash for speed.

/frank