View Full Version : Two Throttle Issues

east tx skier
03-15-2005, 10:45 AM
I figured rather than hijack my own thread elsewhere, I'd start a new one here.

Throttle Return Spring Revisited
When the boys at SWCC took the slop out of my throttle cable, they shortened my return spring as well. So I'm back to having to keep my hand on the throttle. My wife hates this because she likes to use her right hand to swat at her hair when it blows in her face. This is not good while I'm skiing.

I kept trying to stretch the spring, but the result would be that my boat would hang at about 1,200 rpm when going from higher rpms to neutral. I picked up a less tense spring yesterday at NAPA and on their advice, put a little lithium grease on the throttle plate where it connects to the carb, which I was mulling doing anyway as it never stuck before, even without any return spring (on a brief test).

Perfect Pass Servo Doesn't always tighten upon Startup after Pumping the Throttle

So at startup, it usually helps to give it a full pump on the throttle before cranking. Ever since I got the new carb, I've noticed that my throttle response has been a little weird when I first startup. Well, I think I got it figured out. When I pump to full throttle, it completely unwinds my perfect pass servo. When I turn the key on, it winds up, but not all the way. I may have had a kink in the line under the knob, which I got out last night. Worst case scenario, I'll just reach back and make sure its wound tight after I give it a pump before startup. Once I'm on the water, this is a non issue. But has anybody else with a carb experienced this. Would it be different if I turned the key on (not started, just on) before I gave the throttle a pump?

Yes, Andre, I know you fuel injected guys don't have such issues. ;)

03-15-2005, 10:49 AM
I would just buy a new boat :rant: !

03-15-2005, 10:52 AM
I would just buy a new boat :rant: !

I can picture Doug in a brand new RED 197.... :steering:

east tx skier
03-15-2005, 11:01 AM
It'd be red, that's for sure. Man, to be honest, I had such a great time skiing behind my boat this past weekend, I'd have to win one of those new boats to replace mine. The pull was great; the wakes were short and soft; and the beers, afterward, were de-licious.

03-15-2005, 11:04 AM
Those wakes are probably nice for that toobin' you and the Toolman were doing.

east tx skier
03-15-2005, 11:09 AM
I thought about calling the toolman, er uh, you to see if you guys wanted to come over for a pull, but we were doing so much work around the place that I didn't want to put you guys to work.

I'm planning a little retreat down there for a week in June. Perhaps a good time for a meet and greet. I've always wanted to see how much smoother that river is on a Wednesday. :)

03-15-2005, 11:13 AM
Doug call the folks at Perfect Pass. They may have an idea for you. On the old boat I was a two pumper but I didn't have a problem with the servo pulling the cable back in. I wonder if there is some small difference in the linkage from cable to carb that is different between the two carbs you have used?

03-15-2005, 11:40 AM

I cant give input about the perfect pass, but maybe this will help some.
I adjusted mine like the CC shop did yours.
It works fine now, and no slop.
I dont have a return spring on mine at all. I dont have to hold the throttle while driveing. I can let it go, and it stays. When I return to neutral, it idles down to 800-900 rpms.
I would say the lithium might do the trick.maybe some carb cleaner first.

east tx skier
03-15-2005, 11:48 AM
Thanks for the replies. I'll give Ppass a call on the servo question. Rem, on the carb cleaner, are you suggesting I just give it a shot around the plate where it links to the throttle cable. I applied a little grease last night to where it was pivoting and to that little curly-q spring (sorry for the hyper technical terms) that is on the carb site of the plate where it connects to the carb. Where are you suggesting I hit it with the carb cleaner?

03-15-2005, 12:12 PM
I thought about calling the toolman, er uh, you to see if you guys wanted to come over for a pull, but we were doing so much work around the place that I didn't want to put you guys to work.

I'm planning a little retreat down there for a week in June. Perhaps a good time for a meet and greet. I've always wanted to see how much smoother that river is on a Wednesday. :)
So, you still think I'm the Toolman :confused: ?? Not me, but I could see myself testing out that wake on a Wednesday :D !!

east tx skier
03-15-2005, 12:14 PM
I'll keep you posted. It's looking like the week before father's day. Bear in mind that the boat house is nicer than the people house, as it should be.

03-15-2005, 12:58 PM
I had some gunk built up around the outside of my carb. I sprayed the outside, and the inside with the carb cleaner.
If you have already applied the grease, then wait and see what happens. if it is fixed, then dont bother.
If not then carb cleaner cant hurt. it just dries everything out. I also spray it in when the engine is idleing, just for good measures.
Do you put anything in the tank.
I usually put a can of sea foam in mine every few refills,

03-15-2005, 01:00 PM
I know exactly what you are talking about, Doug. The problem also becomes that when you pump the throttle before starting up (possibly to activate the electric choke, is what my manual says), the linkage to your carb isn't actually moving, so your butterfly valves aren't actually openeing. So theortically, you aren't even actually priming the motor.

This is due to the fact that instead of the throttle pulling the linkage on the carb, it's just pulling the cable connected to the servo motor -- the weakest link. When you get power to the PP system and the servo, (like you were thinking) it performs it's auto tighten, and then it locks the armature. At that point, when you give the boat manual throttle with the ignition on, the PP servo is locked so the control cable can't pull out, and it then opens and closes the carb, as opposed to pulling out the servo cable.

If it's not too tough, open the engine cover first and make sure the slack is out (which it should be), hold the black control knob on the servo, and then do your throttle pump. You'll keep the cable in place, and the carb will then react. Turning the key on before the throttle pump should do ther same thing. Hope that helps! Let me know what else you can figure out as opposed to this strategy.

east tx skier
03-15-2005, 02:28 PM
Thanks Rem and Pete. On the perfect pass thing, it'll be a few weeks before I'm out in my boat again, but I'll do a little experimenting then.

I usually do sea foam once per season (half in the carb, half in the tank, let it sit for 20, then drive it like I stole it and watch the carbon smoke). Haven't done it yet this season. Next time out is probably a good time.

03-15-2005, 02:34 PM

I would think about keeping the wife away from the fumes from the sea foam. (the smoky exhaust) Just to be on the safe side.

east tx skier
03-15-2005, 05:45 PM
That won't be a problem. She's not cut out for waiting 20 minutes to go. She would just assume relax inside until we're ready to go for real (assuming we're on the lake with the lakehouse).

03-17-2005, 10:43 AM
Hey All,

One solution to having to keep your hand on the throttle to maintain speed is to get one of those clamps that adds a little resistance to the cable - when I installed my new throttle/shifter last year I had this problem until I installed the cable clamp...works great now...

I had played around with the return spring as well but it didn't work out...I could only imagine having the thing stick at 4000 rpm when one of my daughters is bring the boat alongside....


east tx skier
03-17-2005, 10:49 AM
Thanks for the info, Wes.

03-29-2005, 08:23 AM
Oops! Sorry...

Those cable clamps can be purchased at skiDIM and you can probably make one or use some sort of electrical ground strap clamp...I just went for the "real deal" from skiDIM and it solved the problem...I liked that....


east tx skier
03-29-2005, 11:10 AM
Thanks for the info, Wes. I'll see if I've got it solved on my next outing. I'd probably go for the real deal, too.

03-29-2005, 11:20 AM
Hey Doug ,was the intake manifold worth the time and money?Can you tell a difference? Thought I would ask before you got started playing with the props.

03-29-2005, 12:25 PM
I thought the PP would fix the throttle drift in all cases. It made mine rock solid and used to drift. Remember when I put it on many others like this.

east tx skier
03-29-2005, 12:28 PM
Although getting the work done has caused me to have to readdress things like the throttle return spring and address clearance issues that I knew might creep up on the way in, I've got to say that the added mid-range torque was quite noticeable. The boat feels really beefy out of the hole. My wife even noticed without much prompting. So yes, for me, it was worth it. In fact, with my results, I don't feel the need to tinker with it any more.

east tx skier
03-29-2005, 12:33 PM
I thought the PP would fix the throttle drift in all cases. It made mine rock solid and used to drift. Remember when I put it on many others like this.

Yeah, but all it takes to cause the perfect pass to disengage is to move the throttle lever back. If the spring is pulling the throttle back, then past a certain point, perfect pass doesn't help.

I threw a less tense spring on there before I went on vacation and made sure it was the exact same length as what I had. Stretching it caused it not to pull when just above idle (it was longer from stretching, so there was no tension at that point). The grease ought to keep things from sticking, too. If not, I'll throw some carb cleaner in there and see if that helps and tinker with the spring some more.

My bet is that I'll run it and the throttle return issues will be solved the next time out. I may have to just manually adjust the PP servo knob after priming next time, but we shall see.

02-20-2018, 06:20 PM
Hello folks, this is my first post, so please excuse my inexperience. East TX Skier - you mentioned picking up a throttle linkage spring at NAPA. I broke this spring (I'm replacing the carb), and am trying to figure out if there's a model number, or just what to buy at NAPA, to replace it. Thanks for any advice you can offer.

02-20-2018, 06:26 PM
You you should PM Mr Mastercraft.He's the man to go for carbs problems.