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View Full Version : How to increase shower temp -MCX 197


JerryS
11-06-2007, 09:14 PM
197 with the MCX (2 knock sensors.) Factory shower installation. Cold water feed is taken from between raw water pump and tranny cooler. Hot water tap is in the closed loop hose with pickups off the exhaust jackets (the one with garden hose fitting)

Shower temp control full hot, cold valve off, the water is not warm enough to make it worth having.

Any ideas to increase water temp? I was thinking of relocating the hot pickup to the heater core feed line - just downstream (on the heater side) of the heater shut-off valve. Will the water be hotter there?

Thanks,

Jerry

Jim@BAWS
11-06-2007, 09:23 PM
Older boats when a HEATER was FACTORY installed came with a 160 thermostat vs a 142. A 142 will show engine temp of approx 160 and a 160 Thermstat will show 180. You might want to change the Thermostat to a 160. This would help your shower be a little hotter.

It seems very strange that the shower still seems COLD with the COLD water side closed

Also take the hot water from a different source.

Jim@BAWS

JerryS
11-06-2007, 10:13 PM
Thanks Jim.

This is an 06' Tournament Team with a factory shower. She runs at 160 when up to temp.

The shower isn't COLD with the COLD side closed - it just isn't "HOT" or even really WARM. Its just kinda luke warm. Put it this way - if you spray your vest with it and immediately put the vest on - its still not too inviting. If you spray your bindings and immediately put your feet in - you don't get that mmm mmm feeling.

I will look to see if DIM has a 160 T-stat for the MCX. You mention 'take the hot water from a different source' - where do you suggest?

Thanks

Jerry

Sodar
11-06-2007, 10:47 PM
Great Stuff!! I was just looking at my boat last night, to find where the dealer tapped the motor, for the shower. And was wondering what to do, since the two temp sensors were on either side of the motor.

Any pictures of a factory installed shower on a 197 would be a VERY welcomed site! Hint. Hint. Would you mind snapping a couple pics of the truck area with the mixer valves, where the hot taps the motor, etc. I installed one on my 190, but want to make it look as close to stock on my 197.

Thanks In Advance!

Jim@BAWS
11-06-2007, 10:58 PM
Jerry,

Are you operating the shower with the motor running? Is the motor to temp?

Jim@BAWS


Thanks Jim.

This is an 06' Tournament Team with a factory shower. She runs at 160 when up to temp.

The shower isn't COLD with the COLD side closed - it just isn't "HOT" or even really WARM. Its just kinda luke warm. Put it this way - if you spray your vest with it and immediately put the vest on - its still not too inviting. If you spray your bindings and immediately put your feet in - you don't get that mmm mmm feeling.

I will look to see if DIM has a 160 T-stat for the MCX. You mention 'take the hot water from a different source' - where do you suggest?

Thanks

Jerry

JerryS
11-06-2007, 11:40 PM
Yes. Motor is running. Engine is to temp and stable at 160. It's been luke-warm from the beginning back in July.

Jerry

swatguy
11-06-2007, 11:48 PM
Ok so forgive me if newer boats run the shower a little different as I am not too familiar.

I added a shower to mine this summer. it it pulls directly from the engine block. Just replaced the petcock vlave with the shower hot line adapter and that thing is steamy :)

JerryS
11-06-2007, 11:54 PM
I've heard of folks tapping the block for the shower pickup, but the MCX has dual knock sensors in those ports, so I'm pretty sure that's not an option for us.

Jerry

JerryS
11-06-2007, 11:58 PM
For you Sodar...

http://members.aol.com/ctseaplane/shower1.jpg

The pump is mounted immediately behind the mixing valve, bolted to the transom. Lines run from engine through bilge, under fuel tank, into back of mixing valve. One line connects mixing valve to pump. Pump has a screen mounted in a clear chamber. Line out of pump to shower quick disconnect - on port side panel, as below.

http://members.aol.com/ctseaplane/shower2.jpg

http://members.aol.com/ctseaplane/shower3.jpg

Red line is the hot line. It is tapped off the loop between exhaust jackets via a T.

http://members.aol.com/ctseaplane/shower4.jpg

JerryS
11-07-2007, 12:00 AM
http://members.aol.com/ctseaplane/shower5.jpg

The cold water is tapped from a T between tranny cooler and raw water pump. (blue)

Here's another pic of the hot water T.

http://members.aol.com/ctseaplane/shower6.jpg

http://members.aol.com/ctseaplane/shower7.jpg

swatguy
11-07-2007, 12:13 AM
DOH yup forgot that. Sorry!

I had a freind a while back who had a similar problem with is shower. Have you tried feeling the hose to see how actually warm it feels? What had actually happened to him was the cold water dial was mis cut in a sense. Even when the cold dial was in the off position it still allowed some to flow through somehow. Drove him nuts for about a month then the just replaced the dials/mainframe control(warrantied BTW) and Viola...Problem solved. What tipped him off kind of was that the hot water line was always so hot to the touch but by the time it came out it lost half of the temp it seemed. Wasn't an MC though but just thought it may help

JerryS
11-07-2007, 12:23 AM
I have the cold knob in the off detent. I thought the same thing - that maybe the mixing valve was letting cold water through. With the cold valve 'off' i turned the hot valve 'off' as well. Water stopped flowing. That told me that the hot and cold are shutting off correctly. I was hoping it was gonna be as simple as that. I've grabbed onto the loop that the Hot is T'eed off of while the boat is running. It's not that hot.....and the red line running to the valve certainly doesnt get that hot downstream of there. This occurs with lake temps of 82 as well as the current 60.

Jerry

swatguy
11-07-2007, 12:38 AM
AHHHHH!



Sounds like a problem for sure. In his case though he too shut the cold off and the hot. No water, but what the found after it being sent back was that when you added hot water to the line it created a vaccum of sort and was able to get the cold to flow from the main. Don't ask me how but just what he was told.

But agin no hot in the line is gonna be no hot out....wish you luck

JerryS
11-07-2007, 12:58 AM
Good info swat...i'll look into that further. Thanks. I'll disconnect the blue line or pinch it off before the mixing valve and see if the temp goes up.

Jerry

Jim@BAWS
11-07-2007, 08:03 AM
Good info swat...i'll look into that further. Thanks. I'll disconnect the blue line or pinch it off before the mixing valve and see if the temp goes up.

Jerry


Jerry...I see what your problem is. You have a RED motor not a BLUE motor. HA HA HA

PS Check the lines for pinching

Jim@BAWS

Sodar
11-07-2007, 10:12 AM
For you Sodar....

Thanks So Much! I just saved them all to my HD! I guess I have ANOTHER winter project now....

Thanks Again!

Sodar
11-07-2007, 10:42 AM
One more question... where is the switch located, to turn the pump on?

bstrom-tt
11-07-2007, 02:42 PM
I had this same problem on my 06 TT boat. The location that Mastercraft chose just doesn't generate the heat needed. I tapped into the heater hose coming from the intake manifold, there is also a heater shut-off valve at this location (Looks like a water shut off valve)
On my 07 TT boat, Mastercraft moved the location of the shower connection to the heater hose, they placed the T so it was located down in the bildge area as shown.

VTJC
11-08-2007, 07:50 AM
Did you check the screens at the entrance into the control box? Remove a line, from the control box and you will see them. They could be clogged, particularly on the hot side and limiting flow.

Jamie

Jayc
11-08-2007, 08:26 AM
I'd remove the T on the manifold hoses and take a feed from either the side of the block or better still the inlet manifold.

That is assuming you have raw water cooling. (cant see any header tank)

My guess is the hot (warm) water is being drawn from the water that runs through the exhausts and this is only warm due to it being mixed with the raw (cold) water in the thermostat manifold.
What is happening is that when the thermostat is shut all the water bypasses the engine and is diverted to the exhausts via the thermostat housing manifold. When the thermostat opens at best your getting a mix of 50/50 hot 160 degree water and cool lake water.

JerryS
11-08-2007, 09:28 AM
Thanks guys. I checked the screen in the pump, but didn't get into the mixing valve itself. I was thinking of moving the pickup, and now that I know they moved it in 07' that is exactly what I am going to do.

My project for the next 2 weeks is to install the heater "Y" and move the hot water pickup for the shower. If this all works out, I should be able to ski through January......

Well maybe not.....

Where do you guys get the T fittings and straight barbed fittings that I will need to 1.) Plug the location where the old hot water shower pickup was and 2.) Tap into the heater line.


Jerry

Andyg
11-08-2007, 09:31 AM
You can find them at any good hardware store, such as ACE or True Value. They are just gray plastic fittings from the plumbing section.

baedriver
11-08-2007, 09:33 AM
I have an 06 197 and had the same problem. The dealer explained that they routed the hot water through the exhaust manifold which is really not all that warm at idol. They re-routed mine to match up with the heater and now it is scalding if I want it to be.

Hope this helps

JerryS
11-08-2007, 09:34 AM
Yes, this time of year I would enjoy the scalding option.

Jayc
11-08-2007, 09:45 AM
You already have a T fitting that you can use for the heater line. As for the coupler to join the exhaust hose you should be able to get this at home depot or any hardware store.

JerryS
11-13-2007, 11:28 PM
Project complete. Package arrived today from Erkoehler at Chicago Mastercraft. I installed the Y fitting in the heater plumbing. I also moved the hot water pickup T to the heater feed line.

Huge difference in temp. I can have scalding hot water now if so desired. Working much better and as expected.

Thanks for the help everyone!

Jerry

Hollywood
01-17-2008, 04:59 PM
If you install the Y-fitting for the heater core, any problems when you shut off the heater core line? The pulling pressure from the Y isn't able to grab any water. The core is not pressurized, and are you sucking air now?