View Full Version : Heater Install on 2005 X-2

10-27-2007, 01:15 AM
I managed to get 2 out of the 3 things I wanted to accomplish with the boat done this summer: install a depth finder, upgrade the ballast. The last on my list was a heater. I managed to get myself a week off from work. So, I decided to give it a shot. I am glad that I had the entire week to devote to this project; I needed it.

First of all, I used P-hat in Cincy's write up as a guide. His write up is located here; http://www.wakesiderides.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17249
For all practical purposes the same boat.

I wanted to keep the system as stock as possible. But, I did decide to go with the three vent system since it does pump out more heat. The stock system would be a two vent system. And I have failed to mention, the brand of heater is Heatercraft. I am 99% positive that this is what the boat would of come with from the factory or installed by the dealer.

Basically, you mount the core behind the drivers side kick panel, route the hoses to the engine and hook them up, install the vent tubes, and wire it. MC has placed a mounting plate behind the kick panel. But, to get to it you have to remove the kick panel. This is a royal PITA. You remove the two screws on the lower left hand side. Easy enough. But, the wiring bundles under the dash put a lot of pressure down on to the panel. I used a large screw driver and a crow bad to gingerly raise the panel then scoot it out. I have the factory sub and later I found that If I removed it that made the panel easier to get past the drivers seat (which I left in). Removing the drivers seat would definitely help, but I decided to leave it in place. Needless to say, I unhooked all of the wiring harnesses from the components that are attached to the panel.

Okay, so the panel is out. Now you will see the mounting plate. It is basically a 1/2" thick piece of very dense plastic (you'll find it all over the boat where they mount stuff). Here is a pic.


And here is a closeup view.


Now, if you have read P-hat's write up, you will know that to install the 3 vent core, you will have to build an additional mounting plate since the 3 vent core extends past the stock mounting plate. I did the exact same plate as P-hat. Measure the piece to coincide with the size of the core and don't forget to account for the mounting side plates. The only difference between mine and P-hat's is that I mounted my plate with 6 screws (me anal). I then inserted two of these triangular-like nuts that iinbed themselves on the left side of the plate and used screws to hold that side in place. I cannot recall the names of these nuts, but i found them at West Marine. I drilled 2 holes completely through the right side of the plate and just used screws and nuts. This way my core is separate from my plate. Now, one problem that I had with the stock mounting plate. The fiberglass was poorly done and there were high spots where my mounting plate needed to go. Here is a pic:


I had to sand these down to make the surface flush.

10-27-2007, 01:33 AM
So, I get the home made plate mounted with 6 screws. I then mount the core. Here is a pic:


Now, one thing you will notice that I did differently from P-hat. I installed the core with the supply/exhaust openings towards the bottom. I felt that this would aid in draining the core and I planned on routing the supply/exhaust hoses through the floor (the downward direction would make them run straight for the hole that already exists). But, it would make installing the heat tubes a challenge. Unfortunately, my digital camera was having battery issues. So, I did not get a pic of the core installed with the hoses hooked up.

Okay. Now for the heater hose. The kit comes with I think 25'. You will need an additional 20'. It is standard 5/8" heater hose found at any auto parts store. From my ballast installation I became familiar with the underfloor channels. I ran both hoses through the hole in the floor where the stringer vent hose and other hoses go. It was still plenty large enough despite the additional ballast hose I ran through it. It just take a little patience and fanagling to fish it through. Fact is, it was quite simple. I coiled up a few feet of hose as extra should I decide that I might need to turn the core around and put the supply/exhaust hoses on the top. Here is a pic:


The connections were easy to find. The supply already has a 45 degree angled connector. The purpose for the 45 is to angle away from the TBW (throttle by wire) system. A barbed hose adapter that fits this 45 is included in the kit. Guess what? Another pic:


I also purchased the Y adapter for improved heating at idle rpm's. I connected it as instructed to the hose that supplies the raw water pump. The small part of the Y goes towards the front of the boat.


10-27-2007, 01:36 AM
I also wanted to install shutoff valves on both lines. While at Lowes one day I found these.


The 3/4" fit the 5/8" heater hose to a tee. I installed one on each side.


I ziptied them to hold them into place.

10-27-2007, 02:08 AM
Now for the tough part; installing the heat tubes. As you see from the pics of the kit on P-hats writeup, the tubes have a nice hard plastic shell that will extend almost a foot behind the panel. Well, needless to say, there ain't a whole lot of room back there. I had to adjust my initial core placement once to account for the sub. So, I spent quite a few hours placing these tubes in pseudo locations till I found the best spot (keeping in mind that I wanted to keep the supply/exhaust hoses on the bottom if at all possible). Believe it or not, there was less room on the right side of the kick panel due to the curvature of the boat. I also wanted to mount all 3 tubes to the kick panel. That way, worse case, if i screwed up I would have to get a new kick panel. Well, I finally had a plan. So, I mapped out the locations of the 2 additional holes on the panel and it was time to drill. MC has already drilled out one location with a hole that is actually too big for a heat tube. But, be careful of the way you cut the carpet and it will look fine. If you do not have a 4" hole saw, buy one ($30). The holes that I cut were just right. Mounting the tubes to the core was a challenge. Be patient and try to remember where everything will go when it is all back together.

Here is the final locations.


How's the wiring look? I took some time to reroute wires for a cleaner look.

Since I mentioned wiring. The wiring is a no-brainer. The ACC2 switch is there for a heater. The wires under the dash are labeled "heater." There are only enough wires to support 2 speeds through the factory switch, so I opted to connect the low and high speeds of the heater (medium would be unconnected). My wires were not labeled as far as the speeds, but P-hats wiring description is correct (colors were the same). The icing on the cake was the MC heater rocker switch plate.


My first test was an outstanding success. The heater works perfectly and the tubes reach anywhere in the boat. Something that I failed to mention. You can disassemble the hard plastic parts of the heater tubes. I actually was able to extend the amount that will go into the cabin of the boat and this also decreased the amount of "extra" tube to stuff behind the kick panel.

But, as it life has it, I have already had to winterize the boat. I am a pilot in the Air Guard. I did not go anywhere during the summer which cost me pay. So, I finally had to start traveling again to get the finances back in shape. But, knowing that we have heat now, we will definitely be getting out sooner in the season next year.

Speaking of winterizing. I bought a plastic pump at West Marine. I pumped (actually, pushed) out all of the water in the heater system. I then pumped 2 gallons of RV antifreeze through the heater system and continued till the system was dry again. I think that should do it. The one thing that kept going through my mind when reading about core failures was the thought that water is left standing in the core. I think that pumping antifreeze through the system will at least leave pockets (if any) of antifreeze as opposed to water.

Well, my fingers hurt now. Got all 3 projects done. I am feeling good. Well, to an extent. Is it Spring yet?

10-27-2007, 10:09 AM
Great Job Boofer.

Thinking of a shower next?

10-27-2007, 11:51 AM
Man, I took a long shower after this project. All that fiberglass dust and my sore elbows. Oh, you meant a shower for the boat. I really don't think that I will install a shower. I am hoping that my finances might get pumped up enough this winter to consider tower speakers. Nothing too involved; just one additional amp and a set of speakers.

KnoxX2, I need to call you sometime. We are wanting to research the Norris house thing.