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captain planet
10-26-2007, 09:28 AM
I have a 2000 Suburban that is giving me starting issues. A little more than 2 weeks ago it started starting hard. Starter working fine, but didn't seem like it was getting enough gas because when it starts hard if you hit the gas a little it starts up and runs fine. When starting the lights REALLY were dimming. It was ready for a new battery before this winter anyway so I got a new battery. I have run into where the battery will have enough juice to turn over the car, but not enough to run the fuel pump at the same time, replace battery, fix problem. Well not in this case. I also put in a new fuel filter at the same time as the battery.

It still has the same problem and seems to be getting a little worse. To me it seems like this happens when the truck is already warm. Cold starts don't seem to have this problem, although my wife says it is all the time now. Anyone have this problem?

P-hat_in_Cincy
10-26-2007, 10:10 AM
I'm trying to jog my memory banks, but we had something similar. I think it ended up being an EGR wire harness. I can't recall if we had starting issues and/or stalling after driving (warm) at low RPM.
Did you have your fuel pump replaced? Was it under warranty?

captain planet
10-26-2007, 10:20 AM
Yea, there was a wiring issue on the sending unit that was recalled so to repair it they had to replace the whole fuel pump/sending unit assembly. That was with approx 60K miles. There are now 85K on the truck.

Once the truck is running there is no issue. It is only when starting.

Jerseydave
10-26-2007, 11:05 AM
Yea, there was a wiring issue on the sending unit that was recalled so to repair it they had to replace the whole fuel pump/sending unit assembly. That was with approx 60K miles. There are now 85K on the truck.

Once the truck is running there is no issue. It is only when starting.

I also have a 2000 suburban, do you have a copy or info on the recall? My truck has not seen a dealer in over 4 years, maybe I should inform them of the recall so I can get my fuel pump replaced. I do have a fuel guage problem once in a great while, where it goes to E and then back up to normal again.

Have you checked for trouble codes on yours? A new battery should have plenty of power to crank the engine and run fuel pump too. Maybe a bad battery cable or connection to ground? Just guessing.

P-hat_in_Cincy
10-26-2007, 11:17 AM
I do have a fuel guage problem once in a great while, where it goes to E and then back up to normal again.
That is one of the symptoms.

Hopefully this link will get you to the text of the recall. Read the last line of the 'consequences' for your listed item. (http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsummary.cfm?rcl_campaign_id=05V155000&prod_id=94217&moduletype=VEHICLE&make=GMC&model=YUKON XL&veh_model_year=2000&searchtype=DrillDown)

CP...see if you have codes. A improperly functioning EGR can cause issues with starting/running conditions. I think they are about $80 and very simple to change. However, like I said, one dealer diagnosed as EGR but another (correctly) diagnosed and fixed as an EGR wire harness.

captain planet
10-26-2007, 11:23 AM
I'm not getting any check engine messages. If the computer was getting some reading it didn't like, wouldn't it let me know about it via 'Check Engine'?

P-hat_in_Cincy
10-26-2007, 11:48 AM
I'm not getting any check engine messages. If the computer was getting some reading it didn't like, wouldn't it let me know about it via 'Check Engine'?

Make sure the indicator light lights up upon 'Key On'. If you are by an Auto Zone, or the likes, they typically will scan for free. At least you'd know.

Do a search in this forum and/or join and post.

Automotive Forums...YUKON. (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=184)

bcampbe7
10-26-2007, 01:04 PM
Is it like the starter is dragging?

My in-laws had a Suburban (pre-2002) and when warm the starter would drag. The dealer told them it was because the starter was too close to the header/exhaust and was getting too hot.

Could be your starter going bad...

captain planet
10-26-2007, 01:13 PM
Naw, the starter is strong. It sounds like P-hat may have the answer. Hey P-hat, was the wiring harness a pricey fix?

dog paw
10-26-2007, 01:18 PM
I have the campaign with the vin breakpoints I'll paste it. More than likely you would be getting notices out the wazoo if yours was involved. If its close to 100k better be thinking about replacing the pump anyway. The fuel gauge thing is caused by the wipers on the level sensor in the tank wearing off. Very common on a lot of GM vehic's

A couple other things that cause that problem are the fuel pressure reg on the ingectors failing and letting fuel bleed off into the intake while the engine is off. Another easy thing to check and clean is the throttle bore. They get "coaked" up with goo and it throws off the minimum air rate causeing hard starts without having to press on the accell Take the snorkle off and spray it down, open the throttle and wipe out the bore. We have seen that fix a few vehicles with that problem. (my luck is never that good though :) )

Bob



Oh, EGR's will not cause a hard start without other driveability issues....... Dont make your problems any worse!



Subject: Product Safety - Fuel Module Reservoir Assembly #05027A - (03/10/2006)



Models: 2000-2001 CHEVROLET 1500 SERIES SUBURBAN

2000-2001 GMC 1500 SERIES YUKON XL




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

THE SERVICE PROCEDURE IN THIS BULLETIN HAS BEEN REVISED TO INCLUDE THE USE OF TOOL J 41413-300, EVAP CAP/PLUG KIT. PLEASE REVIEW THE SERVICE PROCEDURE IMMEDIATELY. DISCARD ALL COPIES OF BULLETIN 05027 ISSUED OCTOBER 2005.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition
General Motors has decided that a defect, which relates to motor vehicle safety, exists in certain 2000-2001 Chevrolet 1500 Series Suburban and GMC 1500 Series Yukon XL vehicles. Some of these vehicles were built with fuel module reservoir assemblies that contain fuel pump wires and/or connectors that may overheat under certain operating conditions. Fuel pump wires that overheat may become exposed and result in one or more of the following conditions: 1) if the ignition circuit wire is exposed and shorts to ground, the fuel pump fuse will blow, disabling the fuel pump and causing an engine stall or no-start condition; 2) if the ignition circuit or ground wire is exposed and shorts to the fuel level sender card wires, inaccurate fuel level readings may result; 3) if sufficient heat is conducted to the pass-through connector, a hole in the connector may result, which may cause a Service Engine Soon light to be illuminated during the emission system diagnostics routine. Fuel vapor, and in some cases liquid fuel, may leak out of the fuel tank through the hole in the connector body. If a sufficient amount of fuel were to leak out and if an ignition source were present, a vehicle fire could occur.

Correction
Dealers are to remove the fuel tank, remove the fuel module reservoir assembly, and install a new service kit. The service kit includes a new pass-through connector, wiring harness for the fuel pump and fuel sender card.

Vehicles Involved
Involved are certain 2000-2001 Chevrolet 1500 Series Suburban and GMC 1500 Series Yukon XL vehicles built within these VIN breakpoints:

Year
Division
Model
From
Through

2000
Chevrolet
Suburban
YG100002
YG229688

YJ100001
YJ211728

2001
Chevrolet
Suburban
1G100015
1G289620

1J100003
1J318221

2000
GMC
Yukon XL
YG100003
YG229685

YJ100017
YJ211810

2001
GMC
Yukon XL
1G100013
1G289614

1J100013
1J318207


Important: Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) prior to beginning recall repairs. [Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.]

For US and Canada

P-hat_in_Cincy
10-26-2007, 01:18 PM
It sounds like P-hat may have the answer. Hey P-hat, was the wiring harness a pricey fix?

I don't recall and I probably don't have the paperwork anymore. I was just relieved to have it fixed after a couple months of another dealer not being able to fix it.

I'm not stating with certainty that what I mentioned is your issue, I'm just stating my experience and some of the similarities. I KNOW our SES light was on b/c the 'emissions' people wouldn't renew our registration without it being fixed.

As you are doing on this forum, go to a Suburban/Yukon forum and do some searching/questioning and you may narrow it down.

captain planet
10-26-2007, 01:29 PM
I don't recall and I probably don't have the paperwork anymore. I was just relieved to have it fixed after a couple months of another dealer not being able to fix it.

I'm not stating with certainty that what I mentioned is your issue, I'm just stating my experience and some of the similarities. I KNOW our SES light was on b/c the 'emissions' people wouldn't renew our registration without it being fixed.

As you are doing on this forum, go to a Suburban/Yukon forum and do some searching/questioning and you may narrow it down.
I'm actually on that forum now getting ready to post my problem to see if anyone there can help. Thanks for your direction.

MIMC
10-26-2007, 01:50 PM
CP -

Against my better judgement I will fess up. I work for GM, I am in Service Engineering, and I was one of the individuals that approved the wiring repair procedure for the recall on your Burbie.

1.) The recall should have nothing to do with your hard starting unless the dealer "fubar-ed" the wiring splice.

2.) Erratic gauge reading is the fuel level sensor. All vehicles have this issue to some extent - not just GM. The chemistry of today's fuels attack the metal content on the fuel level sensor and cause it to provide inaccurate readings. GM has made several improvements to their fuel level sensors in order to combat the stronger fuels.

3.) I do not believe an EGR is the cause of your concern. EGR will set a check engine light, code, or cause driveability concerns while driving.

4.) Do you have access to a TECH 2 scan tool? Does the vehicle run fine once started? Is the check engine light on? I believe you have a fuel delivery problem. 2000 burbies are fuel injected, no need to pump the pedal to start. I'm thinking injectors, fuel pressure regulator, etc. Heat around the starter is a bunch of crap. All starters are in a "heated" environment - they are designed for that.


Try to give me more specifics and I can dig into our databases and see what I can find. Diagnosing over the internet is tough though!

Feel free to IM me -thanks!
MIMC

dog paw
10-26-2007, 01:59 PM
CP -

Against my better judgement I will fess up. I work for GM, I am in Service Engineering, and I was one of the individuals that approved the wiring repair procedure for the recall on your Burbie.



Feel free to IM me -thanks!
MIMC


Your in for a thrashing now :D

Bob. (bout 30 years in GM service also)

rcnjson
10-26-2007, 02:06 PM
Let me start by saying Chevy's suck. Believe me, I know, especially after "marrying" into one (my wife's truck, she had it before we were married) and it is my job to maintain it. Why the general didn't go to the parts bin for fuel injection parts is beyond me. What you have here is GM's stoopid sequential fuel injection system that needs 60 PSI to start and the general, in their infinite wisdom, used a pump that can supply maybe 65 PSI on a good day. However, when the pump gets old, or you run it lower than a 1/4 tank of gas, or you run it out of gas it starts to wear out. You see, the pump needs fuel around it to cool it, especially when you are running it at basically full capacity all the time, so when you run it low the pump gets hot and starts to wear out and eventually, maybe you can run it out of gas twice, the pump will not be able to supply the 60 PSI required to start the truck. Then instead of putting an access hole in the truck, why not put it under the carpet, you have to drop the tank to get to the pump out. Let me tell you, after replacing 2 pumps (wife is not good at watching the gas gauge, she is really hot though so I let it slide) it would be only slightly more difficult to pull the body off the frame than it would be to drop the tank. There are so many vents and cheap plastic fittings coming in and out of that thing, it is nearly impossible to do without breaking one off, especially the first time. So my rant is over, but if the general had used a bosch style injector which will start great at 20 PSI less than their "outhouse engineered" crap you wouldn't have any problems for as long as you have the truck. Instead, unless you keep it full, you will be replacing pumps every other year. Don't believe me? Then why did the general switch to a bosch style injector for '02?
Camaro's suck too, they are really slow.
Corvette's... I like those.
$.02
k

captain planet
10-26-2007, 02:50 PM
Well here is what I have come up with from the other forum.

I was told that it was probably a fuel pressure regulator. I was told it is a common problem for them to leak and flood the engine which causes a hard start when the engine is warm. It usually isn't a problem when the engine is cold since the fuel will have evaporated and thus not flood the engine. I'm hoping/thinking this is it since I have been getting a gasoline smell coming from the engine lately. I thought it was my fuel filter leaking that I just replaced, but every time I check it, it isn't leaking.

If it is what rcnjson suggested I am going to go through the roof.:rant: I have told my wife time and time again not to let the truck get below 1/4 tank at least 50 times, and I'll get in the truck and the "low fuel" light will be on. :mad: :mad: :mad:

Pressure regulator is around $50 or so and I can do myself. If it is the fuel pump.....I can do it myself, but I will be less than pleased about it.

MIMC, does this sound reasonable as to the problem?

dog paw
10-26-2007, 03:39 PM
Good god! best thing you could do is forget what you read there. Not bustin his chops, (he barefoots and his wife is cute as a button so he's doing something right)

If you are going to spend hard money blind advice from a forum you better stick with the likes of MIMC. Even if that man has ZERO in field wrenching experience the info he has to offer is beyond your wildest dreams I am surprised he chimed in. The field engineer's I know would not

If you are game for the progect pull the upper plenum to get a look at the ingectors If there is ANY wet fuel in the area replace the reg, the fuel will more than likely be coming out of what looks like a vacuum fitting on the regulator.

rcnjson
10-26-2007, 03:44 PM
Ok, I might have had my years screwed up here, but our truck is a 97, 5.7 liter, and has that stoopid spyder setup that I don't like. Yours is a 2000, and I guess that the 2000's had a 5.3L? I guess I thought they switched in 2002 I've been wrong before, I know what it looks like. If you have a 5.7, it is probably (I'd lay the lumber on it) the pump, if it is the 5.3, it might not be. I was told the same thing, fuel pressure regulator leaking, but I diagnosed that to be functional. I just hooked up my fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve and clicked the key. I wasn't looking for a specific number here, but if it held pressure, the regulator would not be leaking. So I was sure that the regulator was good. I was pretty happy about that because that regulator (on our truck) is part of the stoopid spyder assembly which has to be replaced as a unit at a bargain basement price of $400, probably closer to a "G" at the dealer. I did all the same stuff you did, new battery, new fuel filter, and I chased and cleaned all the grounds it wasn't until I came across the specs for fuel pressure that I realized what the problem was. Then I did the same check and sure enough like 58-59 PSI at the schrader valve which is not going to start the truck (again our truck). It made sense after I sat down and thought about it, little lady ran out of gas, I remember going to fill it up with a can as it sat on the highway. Hard starts after that and then wouldn't start at all.

I'm not trying to be a Jerk about GM, I just added commentary for color, so appologies if I offended anyone who is employed by or a fan of GM. I like the 'burban, it is very useful I just don't like some things about it.

Good luck on getting to the bottom of this.

Jason

Lennyp04
10-26-2007, 04:07 PM
We have a 2000 Suburban with 93,000 miles i think. Everything works fine...knock on wood...

dog paw
10-26-2007, 04:27 PM
I also have a Yukon of the same vintage

Jason, when I have real work to do I get the old school 7.3 super duty out of the garage :)

In all fairness though if it had to be replaced it would be a Dmax HD They have "Harry homeownerized" trucks to the point where they are all toys. You need something with a GVWR above 10000lb to get the job done anymore.

jlf
10-26-2007, 05:49 PM
2nd the fuel pressure regulator. I probably replace one every other day at the dealership. If you would like to be sure
its easy to check. Drivers side of the engine there is a round gold piece mounted on the fuel rail that has a vacuum line coming off of it. Just pull the vacuum line off of it and check to see if there is fuel in it. If there is fuel in it the regulator is bleeding fuel directly into the intake. I can almost guarantee this is your problem. Simple to replace also. Approx $100 bucks at the dealer.

captain planet
10-29-2007, 10:44 AM
2nd the fuel pressure regulator. I probably replace one every other day at the dealership. If you would like to be sure
its easy to check. Drivers side of the engine there is a round gold piece mounted on the fuel rail that has a vacuum line coming off of it. Just pull the vacuum line off of it and check to see if there is fuel in it. If there is fuel in it the regulator is bleeding fuel directly into the intake. I can almost guarantee this is your problem. Simple to replace also. Approx $100 bucks at the dealer.
Thanks, I will check it tonight. We didn't drive the truck all weekend. Oops, took it on Saturday but was raining. Not poping the hood when it is raining.

MIMC
10-29-2007, 11:18 AM
Captain -

First of all the 1500 Burbans (GMT800 platform) were all new in 2000, so you have the 5.3 liter engine. I hesitate stating that the pressure regulator is for sure your problem, but it is the most probable place to start. Have you done any pressure checks? If there is doubt in regards to my "qualifications" - well, I am technical. I graduated from Southern Illinois Universtity with an Auto Tech degree, wrenched at a dealer prior to hiring on with GM, so yes I know a "little bit" about GM products.:) As I mentioned before it is hard to diagnose a car over the internet, phone, etc. Please see what I posted below, if you can get a gage on the fuel system it will help save you some $$$.

Circuit Description
When you turn ON the ignition switch, the powertrain control module (PCM) turns ON the in-tank fuel pump. The in-tank fuel pump remains ON as long as the engine is cranking or running and the PCM receives reference pulses. If there are no reference pulses, the PCM turns the in-tank fuel pump OFF 2 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON or 2 seconds after the engine stops running.

The electric fuel pump attaches to the fuel sender assembly inside the fuel tank . The in-tank fuel pump supplies fuel through an in-pipe fuel filter to the fuel rail assembly. The fuel pump provides fuel at a pressure above the pressure needed by the fuel injectors. A fuel pressure regulator, attached to the fuel rail, keeps the fuel available to the fuel injectors at a regulated pressure. Unused fuel returns to the fuel tank by a separate fuel return pipe.

Test Description
When the ignition switch is ON and the fuel pump is running, the fuel pressure indicated by the fuel pressure gauge should read 379-427 kPa (55-62 psi). The spring pressure inside the fuel pressure regulator controls the fuel pressure.

A fuel system that drops more than 34 kPa (5 psi) in 10 minutes has a leak in one or more of the following areas:
- The fuel pump check valve
- The fuel pump flex pipe
- The valve or valve seat within the fuel pressure regulator
- The fuel injectors

A fuel system that drops more than 14 kPa (2 psi) in 10 minutes after being relieved to 69 kPa (10 psi) indicates a leaking fuel pump check valve.

Fuel pressure that drops-off during acceleration, cruise, or hard cornering may cause a lean condition. A lean condition can cause a loss of power, surging, or misfire. You can diagnose a lean condition using a scan tool. If an extremely lean condition occurs, the heated oxygen sensorss will stop toggling. The heated oxygen sensor output voltages will drop below 300 mV. The fuel injector pulse width will increase.

Hope this helps!
Thanks - MIMC

milkmania
10-29-2007, 04:58 PM
I'm not trying to be a Jerk about GM, I just added commentary for color, so appologies if I offended anyone who is employed by or a fan of GM. I like the 'burban, it is very useful I just don't like some things about it.

Good luck on getting to the bottom of this.

Jason
no offence taken because I know the durability of the 3 suburbans sitting in my driveway!

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a112/milkmania/usa1.gif
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a112/milkmania/white_sub.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a112/milkmania/k2500.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a112/milkmania/green_sub.jpg

milkmania
10-29-2007, 05:14 PM
and they all do what's important.......8p

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a112/milkmania/DSCF6239.jpg

captain planet
10-30-2007, 09:12 AM
2nd the fuel pressure regulator. I probably replace one every other day at the dealership. If you would like to be sure
its easy to check. Drivers side of the engine there is a round gold piece mounted on the fuel rail that has a vacuum line coming off of it. Just pull the vacuum line off of it and check to see if there is fuel in it. If there is fuel in it the regulator is bleeding fuel directly into the intake. I can almost guarantee this is your problem. Simple to replace also. Approx $100 bucks at the dealer.
Yup, that was it. I pulled the vacuum line off of it and fuel ran out. It is a little thing, I was expecting something bigger. Any tips to replacing it? Looks like one metal clip and a vacuum line. Anything else I need to know?

Thanks,

captain planet
11-27-2007, 01:38 PM
After finally getting time to fix this, I put a new regulator on this last weekend. The truck is still starting a little hard at times. The first two times it started real hard, but I thought it was because there was air in the line since I had pulled off the old regulator. It seemed to start Ok for me after I installed the new regulator, but the wife says it still starts hard at times. I'll have to be sure that I reattached that little vacuum line to the new regulator.:o :o

TX.X-30 fan
11-27-2007, 07:37 PM
CP------------- Gas guzzling Suburban????? :noface: :noface: :noface: :D

captain planet
11-28-2007, 10:45 AM
CP------------- Gas guzzling Suburban?????
Trust me, if it wasn't for my wife I would get rid of it (I hate that vehicle!!!!!:mad: :mad:). Bought it 3.5 years ago when the kids were born, now probably would take a hit if I tried to sell the darn thing. Who wants a 2000 Suburban with 84K with gas at $3.00+. Pure economics are keeping that thing at our house for a few years.

captain planet
12-19-2008, 03:00 PM
Well here we go again. :mad:

Driver side high beam doesn't work. Went to store, bought new bulb...still doesn't work. Tested with meter, no voltage at plug. In previous wranglings with this truck I had to remove the windshiled washer fluid res. to replace leaky pump (which I need to do again, no big deal), figured that since the high beam wire runs in that area, maybe I pinched it or something reinstalling the res. Well not the case. I can't figure out why I have no power to that plug. Fuses are fine. I have read on other forums about some wiring harness that is near the steering column that goes bad in these trucks. Ugh, I'm not good with electrical issues.

I thought somebody might be able to shed some....uh....light on this issue. :rolleyes:

jkski
12-19-2008, 03:44 PM
Stop having kids, leave the boat at the lake and use someone elses vehicle to put it in and out and then sell that thing during daylight hours!!!

Have a good holiday CP.

captain planet
12-19-2008, 04:04 PM
Stop having kids, leave the boat at the lake and use someone elses vehicle to put it in and out and then sell that thing during daylight hours!!!

Have a good holiday CP.

Har, har. You as well jkski.

Jerseydave
12-19-2008, 05:03 PM
On my 2000 Sub, my horn quit working and the dealer had to replace a harness in/near the steering column. (not sure if this is related to your problem)

captain planet
12-19-2008, 05:48 PM
That's what I fear it is. It couldn't have been a cheap fix.

trickskier
12-19-2008, 06:13 PM
Well here we go again. :mad:

Driver side high beam doesn't work. Went to store, bought new bulb...still doesn't work. Tested with meter, no voltage at plug. In previous wranglings with this truck I had to remove the windshiled washer fluid res. to replace leaky pump (which I need to do again, no big deal), figured that since the high beam wire runs in that area, maybe I pinched it or something reinstalling the res. Well not the case. I can't figure out why I have no power to that plug. Fuses are fine. I have read on other forums about some wiring harness that is near the steering column that goes bad in these trucks. Ugh, I'm not good with electrical issues.

I thought somebody might be able to shed some....uh....light on this issue. :rolleyes:

CP ole buddy................Face it, the Burb is WORN-OUT time to buy a new one. You want your wife and kids to be riding in "DEPENDABLE" transportation...............:D

captain planet
12-22-2008, 10:53 AM
CP ole buddy................Face it, the Burb is WORN-OUT time to buy a new one. You want your wife and kids to be riding in "DEPENDABLE" transportation...............:D

Har, har. Unfortunately we will have that friggin truck for about another 5 or 6 years. It only has 99K on it. My brothers 93' had 195K on it when he got a new one. It's almost paid for and has been reliable...it's just thirsty. I figure when the kids are about 10 years old, they won't trash vehicles as bad as this one and it will be time for a Honda Ridgeline, unless something better comes along that can tow the boat and get decent mileage.

....maybe GM or Ford will come out with something that can tow the boat and get the mileage of a Ridgeline......but I'm not going to hold my breath. :rolleyes:

dog paw
12-22-2008, 11:36 AM
Trading mine (99 Yukon 125k) on a AWD Torrent today.....Prolly gonna regret it. We have sold our Pontiac franchise back to GM and the deals are to good to pass up. Getting this toy for not much more than the last Sea Doo I bought. Gonna miss the old beast. Best driving vehicle I have had. Still have the Super Duty to do real work.....

captain planet
02-23-2009, 04:28 PM
More fun fellas. :rant:

A couple years ago we received a recall on the front brakes on my Suburban. At low speeds (less than 5 mph) occasionally the anti-lock brakes will kick in when the tires are not locked up. The letter instructed me to take the truck to the dealer and they would take care of the problem. We had this done and have had no problems until recently the truck started doing it again. I want to say I read somewhere that all they did was clean the anti-lock sensors. If this is the case, what would you use to clean them and where are they? I had a Ford Ranger that you could see the sensors when you had the rotors off, but I don't recall ever seeing them on my truck. Admittantly, I haven't looked very hard yet. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Yea, I know jkski and tricky, it's old, time to upgrade. But the ******* thing is almost paid for. I would like to have a free truck for a while before I buy again. :rolleyes:

Witness140
02-23-2009, 04:31 PM
My 04' is starting to feel like it has a slight miss, but only at idle. Just not as smooth as it used to be. Runs fine in general. Any suggestions?

TX.X-30 fan
02-23-2009, 05:30 PM
Been through the brakes and roters and brake lines on my 99 burb. great truck but not the brakes up there.

MIMC
02-25-2009, 12:11 PM
CP - sorry to hear having probs again. :( I'll shed a little light on the front ABS sensors. In a nut shell, corrosion attacks the housing that holds the sensors, over time, the corrosion may cause the sensor to be pushed out of position, thus causing false or interuppted ABS signal/readings. Your two front ABS sensors are located on top of the hub/wheel bearing, one left side and one right. When you pull off the wheel you will see a wire coming down along the knuckle (only wire in this area), the wire will lead you to the sensor. Remove the sensor and clean out the corrosion from the housing then apply a small amount of grease, try not to get any grease on the tip of the sensor. Re-install the sensor. I have the same issue on my 98', everytime I replace the brakes I clean the sensors, shouldn't have to, but do it anyway since I'm in there. This "MAY" be your problem, if the problem persists then there is an entirely different diagnostic list to follow. Does the ABS light on the dash stay on all the time, or are you just getting occasional ABS activiation? I'll help with what I can.

Thanks -
MIMC

captain planet
02-26-2009, 08:54 AM
Thanks for the reply MIMC. The light doesn't come on. I think it does at start-up but it is not on all the time. I only get an ABS activation below 5 mph, like when getting ready to pull out of the driveway or creeping up at a light. I also get ABS activation when it is necessary, like when on snow or ice. It works when it is supposed to and a little more than occasionally at speeds below 5 mph.

Last time it did this it was the sensor recall (clean sensors). After they were cleaned it never did it until this winter. I will check this out and then just make cleaning the sensors an annual event. Sounds like they are pretty easy to get to from your description. I'll see if I can get to them in the next week or so and if I have problems I'll probably try to pick your brain again.

Thanks again for the reply.

Sodar
02-26-2009, 10:14 AM
I had a similar problem on my '04 Tahoe, only my brakes did not lock up, but my ABS would come on when I was below 5 mph coming to a stop. Luckily the problem happened as the tech was pulling my car onto the lift. I looked back through my paperwork and they replaced the driver's side front ABS Sensor and cleaned the other 3. I have not had a problem since.

I will tell you one thing, though. This is the last GM product I will own... they seem to make these vehicles fall apart on their 75k mile birthday!!

MIMC
02-26-2009, 10:38 AM
CP - Understand that it is absolutely normal to have ONE ABS activiation when you first move the vehicle after a key cycle (I.E - in the moring, pulling out of the garage, driveway, etc). The ABS will do a self check under 8 mph after every key cycle, after that the ABS should not have an event unless it is warranted (ice, etc). It is also normal for the ABS light on the dash to come on for a few seconds upon start up, but should go off after a few seconds. It's a good sign your light does not stay on, just another indication you have corrosion in the sensor retainer. If you have issues don't hesitate to "pick my brain"!

Sodar - As a GM employee it does concern me that you are having such problems with your Tahoe, to the point where you can honestly say it will be the last GM product you will own. :( If you don't mind me asking, what problems are you having or have you had in the past that has turned you away from GM? Just curious.

Thanks -
MIMC

TMCNo1
02-26-2009, 10:44 AM
I will tell you one thing, though. This is the last GM product I will own... they seem to make these vehicles fall apart on their 75k mile birthday!!

Man, that makes me feel good, I've got a little over 15k before the '88 Astro Van starts coming unglued!:rolleyes::D

Sodar
02-26-2009, 10:56 AM
Sodar - As a GM employee it does concern me that you are having such problems with your Tahoe, to the point where you can honestly say it will be the last GM product you will own. :( If you don't mind me asking, what problems are you having or have you had in the past that has turned you away from GM? Just curious.

Thanks -
MIMC

I have had had to replace a transmission.
I have had a front wheel hub seize.
I have piston slap that makes my engine sound like a freaking diesel truck.
I have had my gauge cluster replaced 2 times (1 failed, 1 made horrible clicking/groaning noise).
My intermediate steering shaft has been done 3 times (repacked 2 times and replaced with the "new" design 1).
My rear axle seal burst, spewing crap all over the boat, my wheels and my wheelwell.
My interior has rattles that make it sound like my vehicle has been offroaded and driven on a farm for its whole life. It is truly ridiculous.

I will add to the list as it comes to me.

I was so excited to get my Tahoe and I have pampered it for 69k miles, but I find myself so excited to be getting into something else.

Just in the wheel hub and transmission repalcement, I covered my $1200 extended warranty. I am very glad I purchased it!

flipper
02-26-2009, 11:07 AM
I have had had to replace a transmission.
I have had a front wheel hub seize.
I have piston slap that makes my engine sound like a freaking diesel truck.
I have had my gauge cluster replaced 2 times (1 failed, 1 made horrible clicking/groaning noise).
My intermediate steering shaft has been done 3 times (repacked 2 times and replaced with the "new" design 1).
My rear axle seal burst, spewing crap all over the boat, my wheels and my wheelwell.
My interior has rattles that make it sound like my vehicle has been offroaded and driven on a farm for its whole life. It is truly ridiculous.

I will add to the list as it comes to me.

I was so excited to get my Tahoe and I have pampered it for 69k miles, but I find myself so excited to be getting into something else.

Just in the wheel hub and transmission repalcement, I covered my $1200 extended warranty. I am very glad I purchased it!

Is this the tahoe in "great shape" on craigslist?:D

Sodar
02-26-2009, 11:12 AM
Is this the tahoe in "great shape" on craigslist?:D

It is in great shape. Everything has been replaced and the car has a monthly check-up when it is in the dealership for repairs! :o

Seriously though, everything on the vehicle is 100% perfect. I spent $600 to dynomat the whole cab (quiet and rattle free), all the issues have been corrected and it looks damn good. I have no reservations about selling it and calling it perfect condition. I baby and pamper my stuff and this Tahoe is no exception.

flipper
02-26-2009, 11:14 AM
It is in great shape. Everything has been replaced and the car has a monthly check-up when it is in the dealership for repairs! :o

Seriously though, everything on the vehicle is 100% perfect. I spent $600 to dynomat the whole cab (quiet and rattle free), all the issues have been corrected and it looks damn good. I have no reservations about selling it and calling it perfect condition. I baby and pamper my stuff and this Tahoe is no exception.

Does that dynomat stuff work pretty well? I've thought about putting it in my Dodge diesel to quiet engine noise and tire noise down a little.

Sodar
02-26-2009, 11:17 AM
Does that dynomat stuff work pretty well? I've thought about putting it in my Dodge diesel to quiet engine noise and tire noise down a little.

I actually did not use dynamat, (Dynamat is just the name brand everyone knows) I used SecondSkin (http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php?category=70) Damplifier Pro(better than Dynamat). It works great and really cut down on the road noise and the rattles. I noticed the biggest difference in the doors and roof.

flipper
02-26-2009, 11:19 AM
I actually did not use dynamat, (Dynamat is just the name brand everyone knows) I used SecondSkin (http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php?category=70) Damplifier Pro(better than Dynamat). It works great and really cut down on the road noise and the rattles. I noticed the biggest difference in the doors and roof.


Thanks, I'll have to check that out

MIMC
02-26-2009, 05:18 PM
Sodar -

I have to admit that is quite a list! I would be disappointed if I had the same list, in particular the transmission! The steering i-shaft rattle was a big customer dissatisfier, especially since it took so long to get the new design released. Not that it will make any difference, but on the behalf of GM I apologize for the issues you have had. Obviously GM needs to retain current customers (and obtain new) but it is hard when a customer has had the list of concerns you have had. I wish you better luck with your next purchase, what ever brand it may be.

MIMC

Sodar
02-27-2009, 11:26 AM
Sodar -

I have to admit that is quite a list! I would be disappointed if I had the same list, in particular the transmission! The steering i-shaft rattle was a big customer dissatisfier, especially since it took so long to get the new design released. Not that it will make any difference, but on the behalf of GM I apologize for the issues you have had. Obviously GM needs to retain current customers (and obtain new) but it is hard when a customer has had the list of concerns you have had. I wish you better luck with your next purchase, what ever brand it may be.

MIMC

Thanks for the well wishes. MIMC.

I really do love the looks and interior of the new Tahoe/Suburban and 3/4 Ton Trucks, but I always seem to catch myself wondering if the next generation will hold the same issues this generation did.

I will be honest... I test drove a Tundra and a Sequoia (GASP!) I am not going to lie, I liked them, however I do believe that their interiors are a far cry from the GM counterparts.

Either way, I do not think I will be in the market for a new vehicle for a while with the economy the way it is and the anemic used SUV market. I just cannot trade in my current vehicle for what the dealer offers... even though I paid cash for it.

captain planet
03-23-2009, 12:57 PM
I have noticed a knocking/slapping sound in my Suburban lately upon cold start-up. I found this thread on Automotive Forums about this issue.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=943576

I have never used marvel mystery oil in any vehicle I've ever owned. Does the suggestion in this thread sound credible or worth trying? If it will work I'll try it, but I'm just a little hesitant to try this on my truck.

Also, anyone ever had one of their front headlights not work due to no power going to the plug?

Same truck, same nagging, irritating issues. 9 years old, 101K miles. Don't know how much more of these little problems I want to deal with.

TX.X-30 fan
03-23-2009, 01:09 PM
Bigmac strongly recommends that product and Amsoil. :D

brucemac
03-23-2009, 01:09 PM
that's interesting. i have a 06 denali xl with the 6.0. bought it new about 3 years ago. since day one on cold starts i get a "ker-chunk" or a "ker-klunk". sometimes pretty loud. it only does it once and is gone. i've taken it to the dealer 3 times and of course they can't seem to replicate the problem. :(

everything else has been a great. no issues. i think i'm around 45K. i haven't confirmed yet, but i don't believe it happens when i have the air/fan/ac/defrost off prior to a cold start.

people who've heard it, have guessed that it's the starter, but i'm not so sure.

captain planet, for a sec, i thought maybe that thread would have the answers i seek, but it doesn't sound like the same sound/issue.

captain planet
03-23-2009, 01:24 PM
that's interesting. i have a 06 denali xl with the 6.0. bought it new about 3 years ago. since day one on cold starts i get a "ker-chunk" or a "ker-klunk". sometimes pretty loud. it only does it once and is gone. i've taken it to the dealer 3 times and of course they can't seem to replicate the problem. :(

everything else has been a great. no issues. i think i'm around 45K. i haven't confirmed yet, but i don't believe it happens when i have the air/fan/ac/defrost off prior to a cold start.

people who've heard it, have guessed that it's the starter, but i'm not so sure.

captain planet, for a sec, i thought maybe that thread would have the answers i seek, but it doesn't sound like the same sound/issue.

Different engine and different sound. It is definately a slap/knock, lasts for up to a minute or so when cold. It only does it on a cold start, but unless my imagination is running wild it maybe has started doing it a little more under load. I may REALLY be trying to hear it after it is running and it may not actually be doing it.

I heard GM was having problems with the 6.0 when it came out with the oil pump and the cam running dry for longer than normal.....or something along these lines.

I hate to keep bringing up the problems with my truck, however the response time here is miles ahead of Automotive Forums group. Your lucky to get an answer inside of a week of posting a problem/question. That being said, I am pretty thankful of all the responses I get here so a big THANK YOU to those of you who help out. :)

zberger
03-23-2009, 02:42 PM
Different engine and different sound. It is definately a slap/knock, lasts for up to a minute or so when cold. It only does it on a cold start, but unless my imagination is running wild it maybe has started doing it a little more under load. I may REALLY be trying to hear it after it is running and it may not actually be doing it.

I heard GM was having problems with the 6.0 when it came out with the oil pump and the cam running dry for longer than normal.....or something along these lines.

I hate to keep bringing up the problems with my truck, however the response time here is miles ahead of Automotive Forums group. Your lucky to get an answer inside of a week of posting a problem/question. That being said, I am pretty thankful of all the responses I get here so a big THANK YOU to those of you who help out. :)

sounds like good ol fashioned GM piston slap in the 5.3's..

Big Dogg
03-23-2009, 02:43 PM
Different engine and different sound. It is definately a slap/knock, lasts for up to a minute or so when cold. It only does it on a cold start, but unless my imagination is running wild it maybe has started doing it a little more under load. I may REALLY be trying to hear it after it is running and it may not actually be doing it.

I heard GM was having problems with the 6.0 when it came out with the oil pump and the cam running dry for longer than normal.....or something along these lines.

I hate to keep bringing up the problems with my truck, however the response time here is miles ahead of Automotive Forums group. Your lucky to get an answer inside of a week of posting a problem/question. That being said, I am pretty thankful of all the responses I get here so a big THANK YOU to those of you who help out. :)

I do not know if this is any help to your slap/knock problem. I have a 2000 Tahoe (5.3L) and a family member has a 2002 Yukon XL (5.3L) and we both have a very distict knock especially during the colder winter months. In both vehicles it was orginally thought that a valve was stuck and slapping the piston, or that the cam shaft was knocking on the tie rods but both were incorrect. Both vehicles have been serviced since new the same way (typically by ourselves) but both have been to the Chevrolet/GMC dealership to look further into the slapping problem. The only thing that we understood out of the whole deal is that GM knows the motors do it, all of the older 5.3L's are starting it after or around the 60K mile mark (ironically about the same time I noticed mine). There is no fix for the sound, but there isnt any damage being done to the motor (how a metal on metal slapping sound doesnt do damage is beyond me). I have continued driving my Tahoe up to the current 110K miles and the "sound" has not caused me a lick of problems. The same goes for the Yukon XL. None the less, my dealership seemed to have the answers from GM who from what I understand knows about the problem but does not have a "fix". On a different note, the sound does go away after engine temp comes up, in the cold winter, the sound disappears after 5 or so minutes of run time. I dont recall hearing it as much during the warmer parts of the season.

Bottom line, I would check into it, but that is my experience. Reading your previous posts, I can understand your frustrations. This is my families or immediate families 8th GM truck, the current 3 are a Tahoe, Yukon XL, and Avalanche (no gas hog problems here :cool:) and we havent had problems with any exception of a POS S-10. But youll have that with a wantabe truck. None the less I hope your problems cure and maybe this will shed some light on your "slapping sounds"

MIMC
03-23-2009, 02:50 PM
Captain Planet -

You know diagnosing over the net is very dangerous!:D However, I can't remember if you have a 5.3 or 5.7 liter? PM the last 8 digits of your VIN and I can do some checking. If a 5.7, chances are you have a lower end (crank/bearings) knock, or if it's the 5.3 you most likely have piston slap. Unless the noise is suddenly new, then I have to say you really have nothing to worry about. Somewhat common in cold climate for these engines. If you want to use a synthetic, or an oil filter with check vlave, those may help, but can't guarantee. My 1998 5.7 liter has been knockin since day one, 160k miles later still runs great, no smoke, no oil consmption, etc. I know you don't like the sound, so synthetic may assist in dampening the knock/slap. Sorry I don't have more, send me the VIN and I'll see what TSB's I can find.

Thx -
MIMC

captain planet
03-23-2009, 03:43 PM
Thanks MIMC, it is the 5.3L. I have read up on this a little on forums and I have all the characteristics of the piston slap. Bad in the winter until it warms up, and not much, if at all, in the summer. If this is typical, I'm not going to worry about it much. This is just the first vehicle I have ever had that has produced such engine noise and wasn't sure what to do about it, but I didn't want to just ignore it. I will probably take it to my local dealer for them to look at and see what they say.

Hey MIMC, have you heard about the Dexcool issues with the intake manifolds on the 5.3? A buddy of mine called me and told me to take out the Dexcool and replace it with regular antifreeze because it was eating holes in the intake, IIRC. I plan to replace my engine coolant now that it has over 100K anyway, but I just heard about this a few months back.

MIMC
03-23-2009, 04:22 PM
CP -

As I mentioned earlier, everything on the net IS NOT true!:D If that was the case, then why would GM still be using Dex-Cool today? GM is still putting Dex-Cool in our new cars and trucks today and no it does not eat up the intake gaskets or any other gaskets. It's the aftermarket's way of selling coolant flushes.:) We do have a bulletin advising not to mix Dex-Cool and your typical green coolant - that will cause damage to aluminum core products such as radiators and heater cores. If you decide to switch to green coolant then I recommend a good flush of the system and then follow the green coolant change intervals. There were some commercially available gasket adhesives out there that did not work well with Dex-Cool, that is why GM has a recommended adhesive. There was never a problem with our gaskets being eaten up by Dex-Cool. Hope this helps!

MIMC

captain planet
03-23-2009, 04:37 PM
CP -

As I mentioned earlier, everything on the net IS NOT true!:D If that was the case, then why would GM still be using Dex-Cool today? GM is still putting Dex-Cool in our new cars and trucks today and no it does not eat up the intake gaskets or any other gaskets. It's the aftermarket's way of selling coolant flushes.:) We do have a bulletin advising not to mix Dex-Cool and your typical green coolant - that will cause damage to aluminum core products such as radiators and heater cores. If you decide to switch to green coolant then I recommend a good flush of the system and then follow the green coolant change intervals. There were some commercially available gasket adhesives out there that did not work well with Dex-Cool, that is why GM has a recommended adhesive. There was never a problem with our gaskets being eaten up by Dex-Cool. Hope this helps!

MIMC

I actually heard that from a friend who works in the automotive industry, which is the only reason I gave it any credence. From what I have read in this forum I would also trust your word since you are on the inside. However, you told me it wasn't true and I did read that here on the internet....so should I believe it? :rolleyes: Just kidding, I couldn't resist. 8p

FWIW, I didn't run right out and change out my coolant. I figure 100K is getting close to time to change it, however I will refer to my owners manual first.

Jerseydave
03-23-2009, 05:03 PM
Sounds like a typical GM piston slap when cold to me. I have a 6.0 suburban and I had a 6.0 Denali, they both have piston slap during cold start/run for a minute or so. I tried synthetic oil in my current ride, does help some but did not totally eliminate the noise.

I was told the piston to cylinder fit is a bit on the loose side on these engines, not sure why. I just let mine warm up for 1-2 minutes before driving during the cold months.

As a side note, I had a Trailblazer with a terrible valve tap when cold (25,000 miles)
GM dealer said that's just the way these engines are. I soon traded it for an Infiniti FX35, no problems after 70K miles. :)

(still love my Suburban though, would buy another and probably will someday)

flipper
03-23-2009, 05:10 PM
If you can't believe the internet, who can you believe then? This bit of new really screwed up my day.

puck_11
03-25-2009, 06:06 PM
Ah, good old piston slap. Do you have any issues with your intermediate steering shaft as well? Two extremely common problems that I inherited with my 02 Tahoe.

MIMC
03-26-2009, 08:55 AM
Puck 11 -

There is a redesigned i-shaft to eliminate the rattle, GM p/n 19153614. Just an FYI.

MIMC

Ski-me
03-26-2009, 11:11 AM
I did the steering shaft to my 02' Tahoe.....much better.

Haven't noticed in my 04 Yukon XL :cool:

captain planet
03-26-2009, 12:05 PM
Ah, good old piston slap. Do you have any issues with your intermediate steering shaft as well? Two extremely common problems that I inherited with my 02 Tahoe.

Nope, just a power loss to my driver side high beam that I can't track down. :mad:

puck_11
03-26-2009, 12:17 PM
Puck 11 -

There is a redesigned i-shaft to eliminate the rattle, GM p/n 19153614. Just an FYI.

MIMC

Thanks, I was aware of the fix through another tahoe forum. Since its been "winter" here in WA the shudder has gone away. I'll get it fixed this summer.

Sodar
03-26-2009, 12:31 PM
Puck 11 -

There is a redesigned i-shaft to eliminate the rattle, GM p/n 19153614. Just an FYI.

MIMC

Yeah... new steering shaft has held up for me for 20k miles without the shudder coming back. Too bad the issue with the steering shafts started back in 1999 with the new body style Silverados and a re-design finally came out ~2005-06.... It only took GM 6 years to find a fix.... WOO HOO!!

Now if they would just get rid of the piston slap that makes their gassers sound like an idling semi!! :rolleyes:

captain planet
05-06-2009, 01:00 PM
AutoRide.......anybody mess with these? My compressor has started to sound like a coffee grinder over the last few weeks. It still works, however sounds REAL sick. I started to look into this and found that the compressor is fairly easy and cheap ($180) to repair, however I have heard it isn't supposed to run a lot.

Mine seems to run when you first start up the truck and then occasionally at a stop light. If you sit in one spot it seems to run every couple minutes for a few seconds. From what I have read this is NOT normal.....however from what I can remember it has always been this way. Anyway, new air shocks are about $400 for a pair. Anybody mess with these? I am going to be working on the truck tonight and am going to inspec the shocks and location of the pump.

MIMC, you out there? :rolleyes:

..........4 more payments......then it is ours.........:confused::o

MIMC
05-06-2009, 01:18 PM
CP -

Nope - nobody's home! :D

Never heard of autoride, I know nothing! JK

Let me poke around and see what I can find....stay tuned!

MIMC

MIMC
05-06-2009, 01:32 PM
Do you have a light on the dash?

Need to check the lines for kinks, bends, cracks, etc.

Still checking....stay tuned.

captain planet
05-06-2009, 02:13 PM
No light, just a lot of noise....and occasional running while sitting in one spot.

trickskier
05-06-2009, 09:34 PM
No light, just a lot of noise....and occasional running while sitting in one spot.

Didn't I tell you to sell that thing when I talked to you Saturday??? :confused::rolleyes:

cmw
05-07-2009, 08:12 AM
I drive a 1995 Tahoe. I have not had a payment for eleven years. The vehicle has 170,000 miles and I have had hardly any trouble. I am planning on replacing it with a 2007-2008 suburban in the next few months. This thread concerns me. Are most of these problems before the body change in 2007?

trickskier
05-07-2009, 08:17 AM
I drive a 1995 Tahoe. I have not had a payment for eleven years. The vehicle has 170,000 miles and I have had hardly any trouble. I am planning on replacing it with a 2007-2008 suburban in the next few months. This thread concerns me. Are most of these problems before the body change in 2007?

Yes, CP has a 2000 MY. I had a 2000 Suburban and a 2000 Tahoe. Both had simular problems to CP's. I now have a 2002 Tahoe and a 2005 Suburban and have had very little problems with them. I just bought a 2009 Tahoe and it rides and drives better than any of the others I have had............Go for it!!!

cmw
05-07-2009, 09:26 AM
Yes, CP has a 2000 MY. I had a 2000 Suburban and a 2000 Tahoe. Both had simular problems to CP's. I now have a 2002 Tahoe and a 2005 Suburban and have had very little problems with them. I just bought a 2009 Tahoe and it rides and driver better than any of the others I have had............Go for it!!!

Good to hear! I tend to keep my vehicles for awhile. I plan to fix up the 95 and keep it. My son will drive it one day. Still a good truck. Looking forward to a newer one.

Ski-me
05-07-2009, 10:16 AM
I drove my 02' Tahoe until about 130k before selling. Ran great but wanted a little more room. I now have an 04' 3/4 ton Suburban. A great truck and I wouldn't hesitate at all.

We had an 04' Volvo with less miles than the Tahoe and the Tahoe was considered the reliable vehicle. For every 5 trips to the Volvo dealer, the Tahoe made maybe one.

It has it's faults...but like any other vehicle, there will be some. Overall, very functional and reliable in my opinion. It IS a 4wd....just more parts that need maintenance vs. a standard car.

Roonie's
05-07-2009, 11:16 AM
Yeah... new steering shaft has held up for me for 20k miles without the shudder coming back. Too bad the issue with the steering shafts started back in 1999 with the new body style Silverados and a re-design finally came out ~2005-06.... It only took GM 6 years to find a fix.... WOO HOO!!

Now if they would just get rid of the piston slap that makes their gassers sound like an idling semi!! :rolleyes:

Is the steering shaft symptoms when you turn a corner and it sounds like the front end is loose or rattles? Usually only happens on corners for me. I have an 04 Suburban AWD and have yet to have them diagnose it.

Also interesting thing with my 04..... I need new belts about every 15-20k miles. I am at 60k and they have started squeeking again bad at start up. This will be the third time I have replaced them all. First two times under warranty. It usually turns out to be the AC belt causing the noise.

Thanks

Ski-me
05-07-2009, 11:47 AM
Is the steering shaft symptoms when you turn a corner and it sounds like the front end is loose or rattles? Usually only happens on corners for me. I have an 04 Suburban AWD and have yet to have them diagnose it.

Also interesting thing with my 04..... I need new belts about every 15-20k miles. I am at 60k and they have started squeeking again bad at start up. This will be the third time I have replaced them all. First two times under warranty. It usually turns out to be the AC belt causing the noise.

Thanks

"Belts" or "Belt"? I just hit 51k on my 04' and am on the original belt. Perhaps there is something wrong with your AC compressor and it's alignment? That is pretty strange to have it changed so often....maybe it isn't the belt that is the main problem...only a result of another problem.

If it is the AC unit or power steering unit or ??, you declaired the problem during the warranty period so you should be able to argue that they never it fixed during that time. Maybe a loose or wabbaly belt tensioner??

Ski-me
05-07-2009, 11:50 AM
I felt my 02' Tahoe steering shaft going over bumps mainly. Just a loose feeling basically. My 04' does not have it.

Sodar
05-07-2009, 12:09 PM
Is the steering shaft symptoms when you turn a corner and it sounds like the front end is loose or rattles? Usually only happens on corners for me. I have an 04 Suburban AWD and have yet to have them diagnose it.

Also interesting thing with my 04..... I need new belts about every 15-20k miles. I am at 60k and they have started squeeking again bad at start up. This will be the third time I have replaced them all. First two times under warranty. It usually turns out to be the AC belt causing the noise.

Thanks

Exactly. Intermediate steering shaft. Exact symptoms of it.

scott023
05-07-2009, 12:16 PM
I've got an '06 Z71 Tahoe and we have had no problems with it... will be buying another one when this ones time has come.

Big Dogg
05-07-2009, 12:45 PM
I have always had much praise for GM Suburbans and Tahoes but my recent problems have turned me away. This may have already been posted but I just want to re-iterate the problem.

1998-2003 GM trucks with the 4L60E transmission (typical to the 5.3L motor) have been known to have faulty/poorly designed Sun Shell Gears. The gear was designed and made from plastic (not sh*ting you). Typical symptoms of a broken sun shell gear is a loss of Reverse and 2nd gears. Not a cheap fix because the tranny has to be pulled disassembled and rebuilt. GM has acknowledged that there is a problem but will not recall it. It effects all GM truck from 1998 - 2003. Be aware some people have reported a broken Sun Shell gear at less than 20K while others are somewhere aroud 100K.

This is a recent experience and just got my truck back from the shop (because of this issue) earlier this week. The shop I took it to is for transmissions only and the owner said he has changed out hundreds if not a thousand or so of these gears. It cost me about a grand, however, when researching the internet on this problem, it has been known to cost significantly more.



Excuse any grammatical inconsistancys but this issue just frustrates me!
Just to wanted to make everyone aware of the problems. Plastic in a transmission just baffle me, I want to know what engineer in what country thought that was a "Good" idea!

MIMC
05-08-2009, 04:11 PM
Big Dogg -

Sorry to hear about the issues with your GM truck, not something you expect! Just curious how many miles on the truck?

Several trans manufacturers use nylon (not plastic) gears in their transmissions in some capacity, not just GM. The 4L60E trans has the best warranty performance in the industry and was considered best in class. Considering all the applications that trans was used in, I have to disagree with your previous comment.

"GM has acknowledged that there is a problem but will not recall it. It effects all GM truck from 1998 - 2003." :mad:

This is completely false; what proof do you have other than the word of an independant technician? GM does not have a "known problem" and it does not effect ALL 1998-2003 trucks. I have a 1998 with 167k miles, orig trans, original fluid and it's still pink - I have no problems. I tow my MC, my camper, pull docks, stumps, etc - no problems. I have several other friends, family members, etc that are more than pleased with the performance of their 4L60E. On a side note, GM does not make the decision to make a recall - NHSTA makes the decision from factual data received from consumers, dealers, BBB, etc.

Again, I understand your frustration and am sorry you had the issues. Unfortunatley your frustration was fueled by an un-informed technician that utilizes irresponsible speculation to promote his/her business. I'll be the first to admit when GM has made a mistake, but the 4L60E was not a mistake.

Thanks for letting me vent! :rant:

I'm all better now!:)

MIMC

Ski-me
05-08-2009, 04:24 PM
On a side note, GM does not make the decision to make a recall - NHSTA makes the decision from factual data received from consumers, dealers, BBB, etc.

MIMC

Good to know, thanks. I always thought the the manufacturer did the recalls. Perhaps there may also be a category for "voluntary" recalls that the manufacturer may carry out but I may be wrong.

Thanks....I always love to hear about an "informed" opinion on GM products. Keep them coming.:cool:

MIMC
05-08-2009, 04:25 PM
CP -

Could not locate any bulletins in regards to your suspension question. Not sure what to tell you. Possibly inspect/clean the compressor. Check connections at air lines, or check for damage in the lines. Possibly check/clean the position sensors. Sorry couldn't be more help.

PM me if you need specs/diag info.

MIMC

captain planet
05-11-2009, 12:36 PM
CP -

Could not locate any bulletins in regards to your suspension question. Not sure what to tell you. Possibly inspect/clean the compressor. Check connections at air lines, or check for damage in the lines. Possibly check/clean the position sensors. Sorry couldn't be more help.

PM me if you need specs/diag info.

MIMC

Thanks MIMC. As always you come through with some good information, thanks. :) My autoride still works, just noisy. I will address it next time I have some free time. :rolleyes:

I finally got to those anti-lock sensors last week and cleaned them. Had a little trouble getting the allen-head bolt out as it was rusted (ordered a couple to replace). On the passenger side the little o-ring that is around the sensor broke when I was cleaning the sensor. I put the sensor back in and am now in search of an o-ring that will fit. My local Chevy dealer doesn't have them and referred me to the local Napa store. :confused: Uh, I'm not sure what to say to that......so....I guess I will check the local Napa???? Please take no offense to this when I say......my Chevy dealership doesn't have a part for my Chevy? I know it is only an o-ring, but they could at least charge $10 for it or something to make it worth their wild.

Oh well. The battle continues. :rolleyes: On the bright side, my anti-locks are working properly now and I can fix this in the future myself......now if I could just find a spare o-ring......

TMCNo1
05-11-2009, 12:51 PM
Thanks MIMC. As always you come through with some good information, thanks. :) My autoride still works, just noisy. I will address it next time I have some free time. :rolleyes:

I finally got to those anti-lock sensors last week and cleaned them. Had a little trouble getting the allen-head bolt out as it was rusted (ordered a couple to replace). On the passenger side the little o-ring that is around the sensor broke when I was cleaning the sensor. I put the sensor back in and am now in search of an o-ring that will fit. My local Chevy dealer doesn't have them and referred me to the local Napa store. :confused: Uh, I'm not sure what to say to that......so....I guess I will check the local Napa???? Please take no offense to this when I say......my Chevy dealership doesn't have a part for my Chevy? I know it is only an o-ring, but they could at least charge $10 for it or something to make it worth their wild.

Oh well. The battle continues. :rolleyes: On the bright side, my anti-locks are working properly now and I can fix this in the future myself......now if I could just find a spare o-ring......

Check your local Ace Hardware store. They have a section in the plumbing department with about every size o-ring you would ever need. In a past boat life, I bought them to replace blown o-rings in our Mercruiser I/O tilt/trim cylinders and pump and never had to replace them again. IIRC, $24 for each Mercruiser cylinder o-ring repair kit from the boat dealer, but only $7 total for them from Ace hardware including some spares for both cylinders.

jrhollow
05-11-2009, 03:53 PM
MIMIC-

I have an 01 Yukon and put on ~110k miles without a single repair. However, over the last 5k I it has developed an issue with the steering. When I turn right at highway speeds it feels normal up until 5 o'clock and then jumps to the right when you pass that point. The odd thing is that it only seems to happen when I turn to the right and it has gotten worse (seems to be worse in the rain) . Have you ever heard of this? Do you think something is worn out/ broken in the steering box or EVO sensor?

MIMC
05-11-2009, 04:50 PM
jrhollow -

Are you sure your 01' has EVO? I thought GM did away with EVO on the utilities back in 99'-00' time frame - I will have to double check? You can PM me your VIN and I'll check to see if you have EVO. If you do have EVO we can look at disabling the system to help diagnose. My 98' experienced what I call the "phanthom assist" at highway speeds, but mine was more around 2 o'clock and varied on temp and left to right. I thought it was the spool valve in the gear. I replaced the gear, although much better, there is still an occasional assist - usually temps around 35-40 degrees. I did some checking and some have replaced there regular power steering fluid with synthetic and the problem is gone. I'll be flushing mine in the next couple of weeks, will let you know.

Thanks-
MIMC

captain planet
05-12-2009, 08:19 PM
MIMC, PM at ya.

captain planet
12-01-2009, 01:45 PM
Hey MIMC, I'm getting ready to replace my autoride shocks and compressor on my Burb. You know if it is beneficial to replace any of the air lines or the dryer? Currently having a hard time finding the dryer. Arnott doesn't sell it and they won't tell me who has it.

Arnott has the OEM shocks but also offer a set that are "passive" on the electric dampening. They come with an adapter that clears the code for the warning light on the dash. You have any recommendation on these? Thanks.

Anyone else on here messed with these at all?

captain planet
04-30-2010, 10:21 AM
Instead of opening a new thread...I'll just continue this one. :confused: I need to remove the inner door panels on my suburban to lubricate my electric window mechanisms and to check out a speaker that isn't working. Anybody know how to remove these without damaging them? I can only find one external screw on the bottom of the panel.

And for those trying to mess with their autoride system on thier suburbans/tahoes I just did mine. It was pretty easy to do.

Sodar
04-30-2010, 10:37 AM
Door panel removal is easy.

Behind the door handle, there is a removable panel with a screw behind it. Remove the screw.

Under the window switch panel, there is a screw also. Remove the window switch panel by prying it up and then remove the screw.

From there, the whole door panel lifts up and off. Remove the connectors and you are done!

JimN
04-30-2010, 11:01 AM
Instead of opening a new thread...I'll just continue this one. :confused: I need to remove the inner door panels on my suburban to lubricate my electric window mechanisms and to check out a speaker that isn't working. Anybody know how to remove these without damaging them? I can only find one external screw on the bottom of the panel.

And for those trying to mess with their autoride system on thier suburbans/tahoes I just did mine. It was pretty easy to do.

They have plastic plugs that hold it in place- once those have been released, the door panel lifts off. Remove any visible screws. If necessary, go to an auto parts store that has Chilton's or Hayne's manuals and look in there. Pry gently when you start, so you can see what holds the door panel on. The plugs are usually off-white or black and if they're old or cold, they can break. They're not expensive, but they're usually sold in small quantities.

Sodar
04-30-2010, 11:08 AM
They have plastic plugs that hold it in place- once those have been released, the door panel lifts off. Remove any visible screws. If necessary, go to an auto parts store that has Chilton's or Hayne's manuals and look in there. Pry gently when you start, so you can see what holds the door panel on. The plugs are usually off-white or black and if they're old or cold, they can break. They're not expensive, but they're usually sold in small quantities.

2000 Suburban is the newer body style that does not use the plastic plugs. :rolleyes:

captain planet
04-30-2010, 11:27 AM
Thanks for the help guys!

JimN
04-30-2010, 01:37 PM
2000 Suburban is the newer body style that does not use the plastic plugs. :rolleyes:

'L'-shaped clips molded in at the bottom of the panel that slide into a slot?

Sodar
04-30-2010, 01:57 PM
'L'-shaped clips molded in at the bottom of the panel that slide into a slot?

Exactly. The panel basically just hangs there and the 2 screws keep it from lifting up and off.

A whole lot easier then the old style plugs and clips... that is for sure! :D

captain planet
05-03-2010, 11:45 AM
I got a hold of this link.

http://www.bodyshopzone.com/archives/trim/door_panels/Chevy/Suburban_2002/dp_remove_brbn.html

captain planet
07-12-2010, 01:24 PM
The saga continues......

Saturday my ABS light was coming on for a split second here and there while returning to the lake. Today my better half calls me to tell me it is on virturally all the time. So....where do I start? I hate electronics. :mad:

JimN
07-12-2010, 01:33 PM
The saga continues......

Saturday my ABS light was coming on for a split second here and there while returning to the lake. Today my better half calls me to tell me it is on virturally all the time. So....where do I start? I hate electronics. :mad:

If any brake work has been done recently, it may be that the wires to the ABS sensor were damaged (like when someone hangs the caliper without disconnecting the wires) or from salt/water over time. Remove or turn the front wheels so you can see the two-wire loom. It's supposed to be held on with a metal clip and if that came free, it may have rubbed through on the rotor.

Otherwise, go to Autozone and have them scan it. IIRC, it's OBDII and that should show ABS sensor faults.

captain planet
07-12-2010, 01:49 PM
No recent brake work, although I'm probably due for front brakes. I am going to dive into it tonight and see what I can see. I know the wire your talking about, I'll check it out.

I had read that a low tire will make this happen. Any validity to this?

Double D
07-12-2010, 01:52 PM
The saga continues......

Saturday my ABS light was coming on for a split second here and there while returning to the lake. Today my better half calls me to tell me it is on virturally all the time. So....where do I start? I hate electronics. :mad:

I am sure you heard this before, but maybe its time for a new one??:rolleyes:

captain planet
07-12-2010, 01:56 PM
I am sure you heard this before, but maybe its time for a new one??:rolleyes:

Ha, ha. Did Tricky put you up to that? :rolleyes:

Don't like the truck....LOVE the payment!

trickskier
07-12-2010, 03:03 PM
Ha, ha. Did Tricky put you up to that? :rolleyes:

Don't like the truck....LOVE the payment!

This Suburban will be for sale as soon as I sell my 300-ZX...................

59652

captain planet
07-12-2010, 04:28 PM
This Suburban will be for sale as soon as I sell my 300-ZX...................

59652

What are the vitals?

captain planet
07-12-2010, 10:40 PM
I'm standing at my truck now. No wires damaged however when I was done putting my front tires on my truck, I checked my ball joints and my tie rod ends for play (my wife complained a couple weeks ago about a couple of loud noises coming from the front
of the truck). I put the wheels back on they have a bunch of play in them a d it isn't the ball joints. Upon further investigation it appears that the cv joints are worn and have slop in them! Uh, I'm guessing this needs fixed sooner rather than later? Is it even safe to drive like this?

KnoxX2
07-12-2010, 10:50 PM
It is safe to drive , However the longer you wait the more wear you put on other part. A few weeks yes a few months no. Hope this helps! Sorry about the bad luck!

captain planet
07-12-2010, 11:01 PM
Thanks Knox. Wow does that seem loose though. Looks like I'll be getting my truck fixed instead of going to Norris this weekend.:rant: I can fix most things on vehicles......but cv joints are something I have yet to attempt. I'm guessing about $1500 for this adventure? :rant: :cry:




I hate automobiles........

oxberger
07-13-2010, 09:51 AM
Sorry to hear about your luck Captain, but better to take that hit now then have much bigger problems later. Depending on where you take it, I think it could be less than the $1500 you're thinking. Good luck.

captain planet
07-13-2010, 10:12 AM
Sorry to hear about your luck Captain, but better to take that hit now then have much bigger problems later. Depending on where you take it, I think it could be less than the $1500 you're thinking. Good luck.

Is it typical for the whole wheel to move like the ball joints are severely worn when the cv joints are going? When the truck is jacked up and the wheels are off the ground, the wheel can be moved around. It's loose. That can't be good. I don't know what holds it in place behind the rotor because I didn't take it apart that far last night. What I know is the cv joint has play.

JimN
07-13-2010, 10:46 AM
Is it typical for the whole wheel to move like the ball joints are severely worn when the cv joints are going? When the truck is jacked up and the wheels are off the ground, the wheel can be moved around. It's loose. That can't be good. I don't know what holds it in place behind the rotor because I didn't take it apart that far last night. What I know is the cv joint has play.

The front end should be free of play if the tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, idler arm, Pittman arm and center link (if it has one) aren't worn. These all have grease fittings and should be lubed every time the oil is changed. If they get wet/full of dirt, they'll obviously wear faster. If you grab the wheels at 9:00/3:00 and try to move it with a vertical axis, it shouldn't move much. If it does, it's usually going to be easy to see what's moving the most. If you grab the wheel at 12:00/6:00 and push the bottom while pulling on the top (then reversing the movement) and it's sloppy, it's usually bad ball joints and control arm bushings. This should be easy enough to see, too. If you look at the bushings from the engine compartment, you'll see if they're worn because the cast insert will be off-center.

GM upper ball joints don't always have a grease zerk, which I find ridiculous. Aftermarket replacements come with one.

The good thing about these parts is that most are easy enough to replace and aren't all that expensive. If you have much mechanical ability, the tie rod ends, idler arm, Pittman arm and center link are pretty easy and don't require special tools. A pickle fork (to separate the tie rod ends from the control arms), a Pittman arm press and a hammer will usually get it all out. A ball joint separator may be needed, the control arm bushings need to be pressed out/in and stake-welded in place so they don't turn. If you don't have the tools, Autozone and some other parts stores have a program that allows borrowing them and if they have a shop, the bushings can be replaced there. It's not that hard.

oxberger
07-13-2010, 10:56 AM
I don't think that's typical and it sounds very unsafe to me. Anytime a wheel can move freely like that is not good, especially on wet ground. Depending on your application the joint is going to be anywhere between $80 to $170 and I think the labor is around 3 hours if you take it somewhere. Hopefully there isn't anything else worn out. I had a ball joint collpase on me while driving once, luckily i had just come off the interstate and was pulling away from a stop light otherwise it would have been very very bad.

captain planet
07-13-2010, 11:06 AM
The front end should be free of play if the tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, idler arm, Pittman arm and center link (if it has one) aren't worn. These all have grease fittings and should be lubed every time the oil is changed. If they get wet/full of dirt, they'll obviously wear faster. If you grab the wheels at 9:00/3:00 and try to move it with a vertical axis, it shouldn't move much. If it does, it's usually going to be easy to see what's moving the most. If you grab the wheel at 12:00/6:00 and push the bottom while pulling on the top (then reversing the movement) and it's sloppy, it's usually bad ball joints and control arm bushings. This should be easy enough to see, too. If you look at the bushings from the engine compartment, you'll see if they're worn because the cast insert will be off-center.

GM upper ball joints don't always have a grease zerk, which I find ridiculous. Aftermarket replacements come with one.

The good thing about these parts is that most are easy enough to replace and aren't all that expensive. If you have much mechanical ability, the tie rod ends, idler arm, Pittman arm and center link are pretty easy and don't require special tools. A pickle fork (to separate the tie rod ends from the control arms), a Pittman arm press and a hammer will usually get it all out. A ball joint separator may be needed, the control arm bushings need to be pressed out/in and stake-welded in place so they don't turn. If you don't have the tools, Autozone and some other parts stores have a program that allows borrowing them and if they have a shop, the bushings can be replaced there. It's not that hard.

Thanks Jim. There are grease fittings all over the front end of that truck. 13 to be exact which I get every time I change the oil.

I feel a little like a tool.....but it looks like the wheel bearings are actually going bad. Which makes sense since the play in the wheel is in ALL directions. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Funny thing is, I know what a wheel bearing sounds like when it goes bad and these never did it. Figure that one out. I did try unsuccessfully to get the cap off of the bearing housing to look at them. Oh well. I usually make all of my repairs, but I'm farming this one out. I must be getting old cuz I'm tired of messing with vehicles anymore.

I would like to thank anybody that has given advice to me about my suburban. I also use Automotiveforums.com and chevyforums.com as an information source to help me when working on my truck. 9 times out of 10 I get an answer or advice on here LONG BEFORE I get an answer on those other two forums. You can't put a price on the value of this forum and the people on it.....well, everyone except Tricky! ;)

oxberger
07-13-2010, 11:22 AM
I would like to thank anybody that has given advice to me about my suburban. I also use Automotiveforums.com and chevyforums.com as an information source to help me when working on my truck. 9 times out of 10 I get an answer or advice on here LONG BEFORE I get an answer on those other two forums. You can't put a price on the value of this forum and the people on it.....well, everyone except Tricky!

AMEN on the that! (except the Tricky part, I don't know him that well to comment but he seems like he adds value to the board along with a lot of humor)

MIMC
07-13-2010, 11:25 AM
CP -

Sorry to hear you have issues again. :( I highly doubt you have front axle/joint issues - not to common for them to fail unless you had some damage to the boot. If you have that much free play then I'm guessing hub/bearing, ball joints, or tie rod ends. My first guess is tie rod ends. If you had an axle/cv joint failing you would have some noise, vibration, and possibly some clicking/clunking noises, especially while making turns. If you have a hub/bearing starting to go then you should feel some vibration in the wheel and could even possibly hear a change in pitch of vibration when swerving from left to right (loading the bearing). My guess is suspension, in particular tie rod ends. They are cheap and I consider them as cheap insurance. You lose a tie rod end and you lose your steering input on that wheel. After replacing tie rod ends you will need to get a toe-set alignment, probably around $90. In regards to ABS, common on those trucks for the front sensor holders to develop rust and eventually push the sensor out of position, thus losing the ability to make good contact with the reluctor. Pull out your sensor, clean the holder out, make sure to remove any rust and place just a slight amount of lube in the holder - DO NOT get any grease on the end of the sensor. Put your sensor back in and make sure it is fully seated. No cost, just some time and labor of your own - I'm pretty sure that will resolve your ABS light - especially if intermittent! Good luck! :)

captain planet
07-13-2010, 11:55 AM
I would like to thank anybody that has given advice to me about my suburban. I also use Automotiveforums.com and chevyforums.com as an information source to help me when working on my truck. 9 times out of 10 I get an answer or advice on here LONG BEFORE I get an answer on those other two forums. You can't put a price on the value of this forum and the people on it.....well, everyone except Tricky!

AMEN on the that! (except the Tricky part, I don't know him that well to comment but he seems like he adds value to the board along with a lot of humor)

Obviously a poke of fun at one of my buddies on this board. I just can't wait until Norm gets me his hat!

CP -

Sorry to hear you have issues again. :( I highly doubt you have front axle/joint issues - not to common for them to fail unless you had some damage to the boot. If you have that much free play then I'm guessing hub/bearing, ball joints, or tie rod ends. My first guess is tie rod ends. If you had an axle/cv joint failing you would have some noise, vibration, and possibly some clicking/clunking noises, especially while making turns. If you have a hub/bearing starting to go then you should feel some vibration in the wheel and could even possibly hear a change in pitch of vibration when swerving from left to right (loading the bearing). My guess is suspension, in particular tie rod ends. They are cheap and I consider them as cheap insurance. You lose a tie rod end and you lose your steering input on that wheel. After replacing tie rod ends you will need to get a toe-set alignment, probably around $90. In regards to ABS, common on those trucks for the front sensor holders to develop rust and eventually push the sensor out of position, thus losing the ability to make good contact with the reluctor. Pull out your sensor, clean the holder out, make sure to remove any rust and place just a slight amount of lube in the holder - DO NOT get any grease on the end of the sensor. Put your sensor back in and make sure it is fully seated. No cost, just some time and labor of your own - I'm pretty sure that will resolve your ABS light - especially if intermittent! Good luck! :)

Thanks MIMC for the input. I have both of those, but the ball joints and tie rod ends are solid with no play. It is most likely the wheel bearings which I am looking into currently and should have my truck in the shop later today or tomorrow. As for the sensors, I have started that process already by removing it and putting grease on the base. I even bought new bolts for those since the allen heads rusted out and I almost couldn't remove them.

TX.X-30 fan
07-13-2010, 12:42 PM
Don't work on that suburban unless someone is home!!

Sodar
07-13-2010, 01:08 PM
When my front wheel bearings went out on the driver's side, I had an annoying squeak at about 20 mph. I ended up taking it in and driving my Tahoe next to a cinder block wall, so the sound was reflected back at the car. The service writer immediately said "Wheel bearing is bad"

captain planet
07-13-2010, 01:26 PM
When my front wheel bearings went out on the driver's side, I had an annoying squeak at about 20 mph. I ended up taking it in and driving my Tahoe next to a cinder block wall, so the sound was reflected back at the car. The service writer immediately said "Wheel bearing is bad"

I love this site.

Sodar, a week or so ago when my wife first said something to me about the truck making a funny sound I took it for a drive and noticed a squeaking sound from the driver side wheel. It went away at about 30 mph or so. I thought it was the indicators on the brakes letting me know that the pads were worn. I found out that wasn't the case when I checked the brakes. Thanks for the help.

captain planet
07-13-2010, 01:29 PM
Don't work on that suburban unless someone is home!!

Now that was funny TX......very funny.

Oddly enough, when I was working on my car last night nobody was home. :o But I had my cell phone on my belt. :rolleyes:

Double D
07-13-2010, 01:41 PM
OMG!! I find it hard to believe that your up to 125 posts about an "on its last legs" Chevy Suburban and this is MasterCraft Teamtalk.

I have less posts and can hardly get an answer on my engine problem thread and here you are practically getting detailed instructions and schematics.

You know I jest because I know you (barely) and this is funny to me but every time I do a reload to see new posts I keep seeing "More Suburban Issues"...... :D I had to dig days back to find the last post on my thread.... :(

captain planet
07-13-2010, 02:42 PM
OMG!! I find it hard to believe that your up to 125 posts about an "on its last legs" Chevy Suburban and this is MasterCraft Teamtalk.

I have less posts and can hardly get an answer on my engine problem thread and here you are practically getting detailed instructions and schematics.

You know I jest because I know you (barely) and this is funny to me but every time I do a reload to see new posts I keep seeing "More Suburban Issues"...... :D I had to dig days back to find the last post on my thread.... :(

"on its last legs" suburban? How dare you Double D! :rolleyes: According to the commercials "a Chevy is just getting broke in at 100,000 miles". I guess at 115,000 is when they fall apart. :o

My brother had a 1993 Suburban that had 195K on it before he got rid of it so I figure I'm good for at least another 60K or so. I hope it lasts that long! It's been paid for for over a year and nothing runs forever without some problems.....the questions becomes, when do you dump it and move on?

Double D
07-13-2010, 02:57 PM
"on its last legs" suburban? How dare you Double D! :rolleyes: According to the commercials "a Chevy is just getting broke in at 100,000 miles". I guess at 115,000 is when they fall apart. :o

My brother had a 1993 Suburban that had 195K on it before he got rid of it so I figure I'm good for at least another 60K or so. I hope it lasts that long! It's been paid for for over a year and nothing runs forever without some problems.....the questions becomes, when do you dump it and move on?

I apologize since I was not dumping on the Chevy. I own two myself (Avalanche and Traverse) and will stick with Chevy's for a long time. It makes be laugh because the thread started with one problem and now we are into the 3rd or 4th one now. :D

BTW, thanks for the bump on my thread.

TX.X-30 fan
07-13-2010, 02:58 PM
I love this site.

Sodar, a week or so ago when my wife first said something to me about the truck making a funny sound I took it for a drive and noticed a squeaking sound from the driver side wheel. It went away at about 30 mph or so. I thought it was the indicators on the brakes letting me know that the pads were worn. I found out that wasn't the case when I checked the brakes. Thanks for the help.




Wifes 99 had to have brake lines up front, the guy said the system was not very good that year.

captain planet
07-13-2010, 03:28 PM
I apologize since I was not dumping on the Chevy. I own two myself (Avalanche and Traverse) and will stick with Chevy's for a long time. It makes be laugh because the thread started with one problem and now we are into the 3rd or 4th one now. :D

BTW, thanks for the bump on my thread.

Well, I figure the Moderators would appreciate me not plugging up the site with excess threads about the same stupid truck.

It's funny, as much as I don't like that truck...I like the Dodge and Ford equivalents even less! (Even though neither ford or dodge really have an equivalent to the Suburban) This will make MIMC smile, when this one dies I'll have to get another due to my boat and my business. :o:confused: So the question becomes, would I be able to right now go out and buy a 2006 Suburban LT 1500 4X4 with 45K miles for 20K?

JimN
07-13-2010, 03:36 PM
Thanks Jim. There are grease fittings all over the front end of that truck. 13 to be exact which I get every time I change the oil.

I feel a little like a tool.....but it looks like the wheel bearings are actually going bad. Which makes sense since the play in the wheel is in ALL directions. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Funny thing is, I know what a wheel bearing sounds like when it goes bad and these never did it. Figure that one out. I did try unsuccessfully to get the cap off of the bearing housing to look at them. Oh well. I usually make all of my repairs, but I'm farming this one out. I must be getting old cuz I'm tired of messing with vehicles anymore.

I would like to thank anybody that has given advice to me about my suburban. I also use Automotiveforums.com and chevyforums.com as an information source to help me when working on my truck. 9 times out of 10 I get an answer or advice on here LONG BEFORE I get an answer on those other two forums. You can't put a price on the value of this forum and the people on it.....well, everyone except Tricky! ;)

Does it make a droning sound that gets worse when cornering? That means you have hub assemblies and the ABS sensor in in that, so both problems are related. I replaced the ones on my '92 LeSabre and it wasn't terribly hard, or expensive. They don't have grease zerks. When I found that out from a friend who worked at GM's Desert Proving Grounds, I asked how they fail if "they're permanently sealed?" and his reply was, "That's the beauty of the design".

JimN
07-13-2010, 03:38 PM
"9 times out of 10 I get an answer or advice on here LONG BEFORE I get an answer on those other two forums. You can't put a price on the value of this forum and the people on it....."

You better take that back, or we're gonna have words!

Double D
07-13-2010, 03:38 PM
Well, I figure the Moderators would appreciate me not plugging up the site with excess threads about the same stupid truck.

It's funny, as much as I don't like that truck...I like the Dodge and Ford equivalents even less! (Even though neither ford or dodge really have an equivalent to the Suburban) This will make MIMC smile, when this one dies I'll have to get another due to my boat and my business. :o:confused: So the question becomes, would I be able to right now go out and buy a 2006 Suburban LT 1500 4X4 with 45K miles for 20K?

Yeah, there really is no equivalent to the Suburban. Ford tried with the Excursion but that didn't last long....

As for 20K for that vehicle, I haven't checked the EBAY market, but I highly doubt it. Good luck!

captain planet
07-13-2010, 04:06 PM
Does it make a droning sound that gets worse when cornering? That means you have hub assemblies and the ABS sensor in in that, so both problems are related. I replaced the ones on my '92 LeSabre and it wasn't terribly hard, or expensive. They don't have grease zerks. When I found that out from a friend who worked at GM's Desert Proving Grounds, I asked how they fail if "they're permanently sealed?" and his reply was, "That's the beauty of the design".

Nope.

if "they're permanently sealed?" and his reply was, "That's the beauty of the design" Doesn't that make you mad? Don't build something that will last, build something that they will have to come back and get parts from you when it breaks. Well, that mentality has caught up with them.

trickskier
07-13-2010, 04:23 PM
Obviously a poke of fun at one of my buddies on this board. I just can't wait until Norm gets me his hat!

It's just a parental feeling - But I'm sure my hat has been destroyed!!! 8p

captain planet
07-13-2010, 04:23 PM
"9 times out of 10 I get an answer or advice on here LONG BEFORE I get an answer on those other two forums. You can't put a price on the value of this forum and the people on it....."

You better take that back, or we're gonna have words!

I know about some folks having some issues between one another, but it didn't concern me so I didn't really pay any attention to it, so I guess I will let my comment stand for those folks that have helped me out, yourself included.

captain planet
07-13-2010, 04:24 PM
It's just a parental feeling - But I'm sure my hat has been destroyed!!! 8p

Not destroyed per se.....let's just say, it has been preserved. ;)8p

KnoxX2
07-13-2010, 04:45 PM
Not destroyed per se.....let's just say, it has been preserved. ;)8p

Thats funny we were just talking about that hat the other day :rolleyes:8p

captain planet
07-13-2010, 04:53 PM
Thats funny we were just talking about that hat the other day :rolleyes:8p

Norm keeps telling me that I'm going to get my shot at it, but then it never ends up in my hands. I would have a ball with that thing! There would be pictures on here at least 2 times a week with that hat in another location/predicament.

captain planet
07-15-2010, 12:46 AM
For those of you interested, shy of $900, I have new bearings, new ABS sensors, and turned rotors. This is the second most money I've ever spent on an auto repair...... And it doesn't bother me much. I hope for my wallets sake, this attitude doesn't stick.

JimN
07-15-2010, 09:16 AM
I know about some folks having some issues between one another, but it didn't concern me so I didn't really pay any attention to it, so I guess I will let my comment stand for those folks that have helped me out, yourself included.

Ah, crap! I forgot to put a smiley on that one.

:D

Double D
07-15-2010, 09:38 AM
For those of you interested, shy of $900, I have new bearings, new ABS sensors, and turned rotors. This is the second most money I've ever spent on an auto repair...... And it doesn't bother me much. I hope for my wallets sake, this attitude doesn't stick.

Glad to hear your back up and running smoothly. I look forward to the next time I see this pop up on the main page. :D NOT!! Hope your issue free for a while.

oxberger
07-15-2010, 09:43 AM
Good to hear the damage to the wallete was minimal and you're running safe again. I'm curious to hear about the travels of this hat you guys are talking about.

bcampbe7
07-15-2010, 12:50 PM
For those of you interested, shy of $900, I have new bearings, new ABS sensors, and turned rotors. This is the second most money I've ever spent on an auto repair...... And it doesn't bother me much. I hope for my wallets sake, this attitude doesn't stick.

That doesn't sound too bad... Although it is not my money either. :D

I think I am due for some costly maintenance/repairs on my 2004 Yukon XL. She just turned 90k miles.

I just installed front rotors and pads over the 4th weekend. ~90k miles on the original rotors and pads! That was about $230 and my dad and I did the work. Since I was doing the work I went with upgraded pads and rotors. EBC slotted rotors and EBC green stuff pads. So far the brakes are far better than stock.

Have a slight vibration at 50mph. I do need the tires rotated and balanced so I will start there. I also have a slight clunk (If you can even call it that) going over bumps and while turning. I think this is the steering shaft (known problem).

A transmission/transfer case fluid change is on the list too. While on our trip to Iowa over the 4th, the transfer case selector switch went into fault mode (red neutral light). Got the codes read and got C0327. This is pretty indicitive of a encoder motor sensor fault from what I could find online. I can replace the sensor for around $140 or the entire encoder motor which includes the sensor for $450. This is parts only. I will be doing the work.

All-in-all it still beats a car payment. :)

trickskier
07-15-2010, 04:01 PM
For those of you interested, shy of $900, I have new bearings, new ABS sensors, and turned rotors. This is the second most money I've ever spent on an auto repair...... And it doesn't bother me much. I hope for my wallets sake, this attitude doesn't stick.

That thing is going to Nickel and Dime you to death!!! 8p

KnoxX2
07-15-2010, 04:17 PM
That thing is going to Nickel and Dime you to death!!! 8p

Spoken like a true sales man8p:D

jraben8
07-15-2010, 04:38 PM
. I also have a slight clunk (If you can even call it that) going over bumps and while turning. I think this is the steering shaft (known problem).



Look at the ball joints for that clunk in the front end. They are also notorious for that.

bcampbe7
07-15-2010, 06:09 PM
Look at the ball joints for that clunk in the front end. They are also notorious for that.

Will do, thanks!

trickskier
07-20-2010, 04:01 PM
Look at the ball joints for that clunk in the front end. They are also notorious for that.

My ball joints clunk all the time!!! :rolleyes:

captain planet
07-20-2010, 04:30 PM
For anybody that cares, the ABS light kept coming on after the bearings were redone. Took it back in and MAYBE have the fix. A ground from the sensor was corroded. It was cleaned and taked for a test. Appears to have solved the problem. If this doesn't solve the problem......I get to buy a new EBCM (electronic brake control module) if I want the ABS to work to the tune of $1030.00 plus labor. The circuit board could be cracked causing the intermitten signal from the sensor. WHOO HOO! :( I don't think ABS is all that important.


If it wasn't paid for, I think we'd have gotten rid of it by now.

captain planet
07-20-2010, 04:37 PM
My ball joints clunk all the time!!! :rolleyes:

Is that because of lack of use???? :D:purplaugh

trickskier
07-20-2010, 10:17 PM
Is that because of lack of use???? :D:purplaugh

No --- They're just worn wornout --- ;)

DemolitionMan
07-20-2010, 10:22 PM
No --- They're just worn wornout --- ;)

I told you not to take that pill this morning.:D

trickskier
07-20-2010, 10:26 PM
I told you not to take that pill this morning.:D

I don't listen very well --- 8p

ProStar190Fan
07-20-2010, 11:25 PM
My ball joints clunk all the time!!! :rolleyes:

This is a normal issue, use auto 4 wheel drive and it will solve the problem.

Tom

ProStar190Fan
07-20-2010, 11:29 PM
For anybody that cares, the ABS light kept coming on after the bearings were redone. Took it back in and MAYBE have the fix. A ground from the sensor was corroded. It was cleaned and taked for a test. Appears to have solved the problem. If this doesn't solve the problem......I get to buy a new EBCM (electronic brake control module) if I want the ABS to work to the tune of $1030.00 plus labor. The circuit board could be cracked causing the intermitten signal from the sensor. WHOO HOO! :( I don't think ABS is all that important.


If it wasn't paid for, I think we'd have gotten rid of it by now.

Captain, what year is yours and whats the mileage, it seems you are having way too many problems with the truck than you should be?

captain planet
07-21-2010, 12:06 PM
Captain, what year is yours and whats the mileage, it seems you are having way too many problems with the truck than you should be?

2000, 115,000

ProStar190Fan
07-21-2010, 01:09 PM
2000, 115,000

Its the age of the vehicle and some parts will never get used, i have a 01 yukon and had to replace the rear door checks just because i never used them.

captain planet
07-21-2010, 01:30 PM
Its the age of the vehicle and some parts will never get used, i have a 01 yukon and had to replace the rear door checks just because i never used them.

The rear one on my driver side has been defective since I've owned the vehicle. I know I'll have to replace that before too long. Did you do yours yourself? How much did it cost?

ProStar190Fan
07-21-2010, 01:33 PM
The rear one on my driver side has been defective since I've owned the vehicle. I know I'll have to replace that before too long. Did you do yours yourself? How much did it cost?

Took it to my favorite dealer, Sedlak in Minocqua and the bill was just under 240 with parts and labor. I am planning on having the front soon after i move later this month.

captain planet
01-11-2012, 11:27 AM
So....anybody ever replace the transfer case seal on a Suburban/Silverado? A buddy of mine says they all leak and are simple and it'll take me longer to fill the transfer case up with oil than it will to replace the seal.

captain planet
08-09-2012, 12:51 PM
OK, next up. Got a real hard vibration. It has been developing slowly for the past 2 years. It would only occur between 63 and 68 mph. We took it to south carolina back in July and now it is there anything over about 53 mph or so.

In looking into this I have concluded that the vibration is from a worn u-joint that is on the drive shaft from the transfer case to the front drive-train. At idle speed there is a clicking sound that has developed that I have determined is that joint moving back and forth when the shaft spins at slow speeds. There is less 1/4" of play in the joint The question is, can this be the cause of the vibration? I really feel it is the case but has anybody else come across this?

mzimme
08-09-2012, 01:36 PM
Unless you lifted that sucker big time, the U-joint is most likely your problem. They shouldn't have play in them.

thatsmrmastercraft
08-09-2012, 01:39 PM
Agreed there shouldn't be any play, but should that shaft be turning in the first place? Unless, of course, the transfer case is engaged.

milkmania
08-09-2012, 01:46 PM
what year suburban?
had a 97, went through everything.... replaced rotors, tire balance many times, it started just shortly after a transmission rebuild.... after a dozen times in transmission shop....
finally learned it was a lazy front wheel caliperhttp://deephousepage.com/smilies/conf45.gif

captain planet
08-09-2012, 01:48 PM
Agreed there shouldn't be any play, but should that shaft be turning in the first place? Unless, of course, the transfer case is engaged.

The noise from that joint has been there for over 12 months. I noticed it last summer when pulling the boat down to the ramp. It is definately the u-joint so that shaft is definitely spinning when the truck is moving.

I always thought, unless you had hubs that could be unlocked, the front drive train was spinning when the truck is moving....which is why 4wd is so much less efficient. In the Ranger I had, the front drive train was stationary unless I had the hubs locked.

captain planet
08-09-2012, 01:49 PM
what year suburban?
had a 97, went through everything.... replaced rotors, tire balance many times, it started just shortly after a transmission rebuild.... after a dozen times in transmission shop....
finally learned it was a lazy front wheel caliperhttp://deephousepage.com/smilies/conf45.gif

2000 Suburban, 133K miles.

milkmania
08-09-2012, 01:54 PM
2000 Suburban, 133K miles.

my bad..... I thought the post at top of page was #1 in thread... I could have read back and probably figured it out myself


in my defense....
I did just come from the Swimsuit Threadhttp://deephousepage.com/smilies/tongueout.gif

thatsmrmastercraft
08-09-2012, 01:56 PM
The noise from that joint has been there for over 12 months. I noticed it last summer when pulling the boat down to the ramp. It is definately the u-joint so that shaft is definitely spinning when the truck is moving.

I always thought, unless you had hubs that could be unlocked, the front drive train was spinning when the truck is moving....which is why 4wd is so much less efficient. In the Ranger I had, the front drive train was stationary unless I had the hubs locked.

If there is that much play in the u-joint it will definitely cause a problem. Sometimes just a little wiggle in a u-joint can be a problem.

You can test this with a piece of duct tape and a 18" length of string. Tape it to the drive shaft and drive a few feet.

milkmania
08-09-2012, 02:02 PM
You can test this with a piece of duct tape and a 18" length of string. Tape it to the drive shaft and drive a few feet.

never heard this trick.....tell me more:confused:

milkmania
08-09-2012, 02:08 PM
CP,
I think these guys found your problem......http://deephousepage.com/smilies/scared.gif

thatsmrmastercraft
08-09-2012, 02:12 PM
never heard this trick.....tell me more:confused:

Just to determine if the shaft is turning or not.

Sorry......no magical way to determine if the u-joint is bad. I guess that sounded kind of divining-rod-like:D:D:D

thatsmrmastercraft
08-09-2012, 02:13 PM
CP,
I think these guys found your problem......http://deephousepage.com/smilies/scared.gif

I said 18", not 18 miles!:rolleyes:

captain planet
08-09-2012, 02:19 PM
CP,
I think these guys found your problem......http://deephousepage.com/smilies/scared.gif

Nice!

It was dark when I crawled under the truck to check out the u-joints, but I think I would have noticed that! 8p

milkmania
08-09-2012, 02:57 PM
Just to determine if the shaft is turning or not.

Sorry......no magical way to determine if the u-joint is bad. I guess that sounded kind of divining-rod-like:D:D:D

I was trying to picture it...... like you tape the u-joint tight with duct tape to determine if it's moving and clicking.... but I had no idea what to do with the stringhttp://deephousepage.com/smilies/rofl5.gif

captain planet
08-09-2012, 02:59 PM
I was trying to picture it...... like you tape the u-joint tight with duct tape to determine if it's moving and clicking.... but I had no idea what to do with the stringhttp://deephousepage.com/smilies/rofl5.gif

A zip tie works as well. This is a good practical joke to play on someone. Crawl under their car and put one of these on it and they will hear it going down the road and think something is wrong. :D I know this being a recipient of this joke once. :o

mzimme
08-09-2012, 03:14 PM
Your front driveshaft should not be moving unless you're in 4wd.

milkmania
08-09-2012, 03:17 PM
A zip tie works as well. This is a good practical joke to play on someone. Crawl under their car and put one of these on it and they will hear it going down the road and think something is wrong. :D I know this being a recipient of this joke once. :o

if you tied a cat to a drive shaft...... I bet it'd make a lot of noise too:D

just sayin' http://deephousepage.com/smilies/kos.gif

milkmania
08-09-2012, 03:26 PM
A zip tie works as well. This is a good practical joke to play on someone. Crawl under their car and put one of these on it and they will hear it going down the road and think something is wrong. :D I know this being a recipient of this joke once. :o

got just the thing and just the buddyhttp://deephousepage.com/smilies/scratchchin.gif

captain planet
08-09-2012, 03:34 PM
Your front driveshaft should not be moving unless you're in 4wd.

Based on my experience with the truck, it has always turned....at least for the past 12+ months that I have noticed the noise from the u-joint.

mzimme
08-09-2012, 04:00 PM
Based on my experience with the truck, it has always turned....at least for the past 12+ months that I have noticed the noise from the u-joint.

You are looking at the front drive shaft right? Not the axles?

If that front driveshaft is moving, that would mean you're in 4wd.

captain planet
08-09-2012, 04:16 PM
You are looking at the front drive shaft right? Not the axles?

If that front driveshaft is moving, that would mean you're in 4wd.

I'm going to check it tonight. Based on the noise for the past year, it is spinning. And yes, the drive shaft, not the axles.

thatsmrmastercraft
08-09-2012, 04:22 PM
if you tied a cat to a drive shaft...... I bet it'd make a lot of noise too:D

just sayin' http://deephousepage.com/smilies/kos.gif

Zip-tie would come in handy here, too.:rolleyes:

mzimme
08-09-2012, 04:29 PM
Zip-tie would come in handy here, too.:rolleyes:

Zip ties and duct tape can repair nearly anything you need repaired. Those are two items I'm rarely without. :D

milkmania
08-09-2012, 04:50 PM
Zip ties and duct tape can repair nearly anything you need repaired. Those are two items I'm rarely without. :D

I just bought some REALLY handy stuff to repair HVAC ductwork in the limousine.
it was a roll of Butyl Rubber and it had a silver foil like the foil tape...
I was able to reinforce the inside and out of the flexible plastic ductwork, much better than foil tape and duct tape.
Also, it can be applied underwater.... now, how cool is that?:cool:

similar to this
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51vRY9cJXxL._SL500_SS500_.jpg

captain planet
08-09-2012, 04:58 PM
Who would have thought my Suburban would have spawned such a discussion.

JimN
08-09-2012, 05:01 PM
Who would have thought my Suburban would have spawned such a discussion.

Ron Paul?:D

milkmania
08-09-2012, 05:14 PM
Who would have thought my Suburban would have spawned such a discussion.


here kitty kitty, here kitty kitty http://deephousepage.com/smilies/squish.gif

;)

captain planet
12-28-2012, 09:48 AM
Alright, so I come back to the fountain of knowledge to figure out another problem with my storied Suburban.

Back in July we were coming back from South Carolina and 10 miles from the house on the expressway the 2wd light goes out and the 'service 4wd' message comes up. Get home, next day light is on and everything is fine.

Fast forward to November I'm coming back from the inlaws house and I see the light go out again, so I hit the 2wd button and it comes back on for a few seconds, then goes out. I hit it again upwards of 10 to 15 times and it finally comes back on and stays on.

Fast forward to last Friday night, we are out driving around looking at christmas lights and I put it into Auto 4wd as we go into a neighborhood that hadn't been plowed. It goes in fine, leave the neighborhood and put it into 2wd and the light won't stay on. I put it into 4wd and I could feel it go in, hit 2wd and feel it go back into 2wd.

A buddy of mine says more than likely it is the front axle actuator which is a simple fix and $180.

Anybody go through anything similar?

XtwentyNot
12-28-2012, 09:57 AM
I agree. I always knew someday mine would give up the ghost since its very common and when it did I installed a posi-lok but sadly it looks like your truck is too new for one.
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_chevy-k.html

captain planet
12-28-2012, 10:03 AM
I agree. I always knew someday mine would give up the ghost since its very common and when it did I installed a posi-lok but sadly it looks like your truck is too new for one.
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_chevy-k.html

My buddy installed that on a 2000 Silverado. I'm not willing to do that to my Suburban since the wife drives it and the 'Auto 4wd' is a feature that is necessary.

MASTIQUE
12-28-2012, 10:14 AM
CP, mine is doing that sporadically now, I've been ignoring but anxious if you find anything out.


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk

XtwentyNot
12-28-2012, 12:03 PM
My buddy installed that on a 2000 Silverado. I'm not willing to do that to my Suburban since the wife drives it and the 'Auto 4wd' is a feature that is necessary.

I don't have that feature so it was an easy choice for me. I guess there have been updates due to problems for the actuator on your specific year as well. Hopefully a new one will get it working again.

captain planet
04-13-2013, 06:36 PM
So, I got new tires back in July and I went to rotate them today. The freaking place that put my tires on tightened the lugs so tight I can't get one of them off and it stripped the nut!!!!!!.:rant::rant::rant::rant: seriously?! Is there ANY reason to tighten them that tight? Rediculous! I hope they can get the nut off....AND replacement shouldn't have to be requested as I will be paying them a visit tomorrow. Reminds me of the first time I changed the oil in the boat. The guy that put that filter on should be tarred and feathered.

JimN
04-13-2013, 06:37 PM
So, I got new tires back in July and I went to rotate them today. The freaking place that put my tires on tightened the lugs so tight I can't get one of them off and it stripped the nut!!!!!!.:rant::rant::rant::rant: seriously?! Is there ANY reason to tighten them that tight? Rediculous! I hope they can get the nut off....AND replacement shouldn't have to be requested as I will be paying them a visit tomorrow. Reminds me of the first time I changed the oil in the boat. The guy that put that filter on should be tarred and feathered.

They get a six pack if they win the contest and your guy won. woo, hoo.

captain planet
04-13-2013, 06:40 PM
They get a six pack if they win the contest and your guy won. woo, hoo.

......yea, they are going to win alright! One pi$$ed of German will be Pulling in their lot at 7:50 Monday morning.

thatsmrmastercraft
04-13-2013, 06:50 PM
A properly torqued (read hand torqued) lug nut should be able to be loosened with a moderate sized 1/2" drive ratchet. A tire monkey with an impact will get them considerably tighter than they should be. Have fun Monday morning.

milkmania
04-13-2013, 06:54 PM
......yea, they are going to win alright! One pi$$ed of German will be Pulling in their lot at 7:50 Monday morning.
it could always be worse......... you're simply trying to rotate the tires.

just think, you could have found the issue on the side of the interstate8p
just sayin'

then it'd be an angry German pulling into their lot on Monday morning with a flat tire...
see how this works???;)
ya gotta find the good in everything sometimes!

milkmania
04-13-2013, 06:57 PM
A properly torqued (read hand torqued) lug nut should be able to be loosened with a moderate sized 1/2" drive ratchet. A tire monkey with an impact will get them considerably tighter than they should be. Have fun Monday morning.
I've used Jim Grizzle Tire Company in Fort Smith Arkansas since the mid-80's ....... they only tighten with torque wrench!
sure, it takes two guys, but it's their policy! one guy holds the tire, the other guy torques it down.
I've never seen them short-cut service.

mikeg205
04-13-2013, 07:01 PM
......yea, they are going to win alright! One pi$$ed of German will be Pulling in their lot at 7:50 Monday morning.

I hate that crap - been there... I always ask for torque wrench... and I watch.... if they don't have it - I take my biz else-where - my dicount tire co. has been good... can't say it's always been good...

captain planet
04-13-2013, 07:10 PM
I hate that crap - been there... I always ask for torque wrench... and I watch.... if they don't have it - I take my biz else-where - my dicount tire co. has been good... can't say it's always been good...

So you all are glossing over the rounded lug nut(compliments of a 12 point socket). So they will be able to get that off?

JimN
04-13-2013, 07:18 PM
So you all are glossing over the rounded lug nut(compliments of a 12 point socket). So they will be able to get that off?

Who said anything about a 12 point socket? Anyone who uses one of those for lug nuts is insane. The only time a 12 point is really useful is when the bolt head has twelve points.

thatsmrmastercraft
04-13-2013, 07:24 PM
I've used Jim Grizzle Tire Company in Fort Smith Arkansas since the mid-80's ....... they only tighten with torque wrench!
sure, it takes two guys, but it's their policy! one guy holds the tire, the other guy torques it down.
I've never seen them short-cut service.

Good service is really appreciated. Sounds like they are really overdoing it as it only takes one guy to install a tire when properly using the star pattern for tightening a wheel.

I don't think I ever left a place and said "they had too much service".:rolleyes:

captain planet
04-13-2013, 07:40 PM
Who said anything about a 12 point socket? Anyone who uses one of those for lug nuts is insane. The only time a 12 point is really useful is when the bolt head has twelve points.

Never had problems with a properly torqued lug nut. 12 point socket...yea I know, you can't fix stupid, but this is the first time this has happened in 20 years of working on my own cars.

milkmania
04-13-2013, 07:55 PM
Good service is really appreciated. Sounds like they are really overdoing it as it only takes one guy to install a tire when properly using the star pattern for tightening a wheel.

I don't think I ever left a place and said "they had too much service".:rolleyes:

well, it's still up in the air on the rack when they torque down the wheels.... so, they just holler "torque" and someone will run over and help.

thatsmrmastercraft
04-13-2013, 08:37 PM
well, it's still up in the air on the rack when they torque down the wheels.... so, they just holler "torque" and someone will run over and help.

I like it. Hand torqued with a witness.

milkmania
04-13-2013, 11:17 PM
I like it. Hand torqued with a witness.

and they both sign off on the work order... I don't know if something happened in the past, or just precaution.... but it's been like that since I've been going there

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-14-2013, 09:12 PM
So you all are glossing over the rounded lug nut(compliments of a 12 point socket). So they will be able to get that off?

Yes the stripped lug nut will eventually come off, the big tool companies sell "special" sockets that get pounded on that grips the nut and removes it, sometimes that doesn't work and have to get the ol' air hammer out. We're all the lug nuts gorilla tight, maybe the tire mechanic just f-up and stripped the one and didn't wanna get yelled at by his manager and decided not to say anything, as it would be 6 months before it was found . My shop is constantly repairing other "shops" f-ups...

They are probably going to tell you to pound sand, say something like were not responsible for something that happened 8 months ago, and prolly say well that wouldn't have happened if you brought it back for tire rotation, and will look at you oddly for using a 12 point socket on lug nuts.

JimN
04-14-2013, 09:40 PM
I like it. Hand torqued with a witness.

I think it's less a matter of being a witness and more like "HE DID IT!".

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-14-2013, 09:46 PM
For everyone saying I seen them use the torque wrenches, have you seen the setting, do you know your manufacturers torque settings, when was the last time the wrench was calibrated. Don't know, then you tell yourself it's just lug nuts not surgery. I have seen many people use air impacts then put a torque wrench on, sure hit it with air then the torque wrench just needs to click. if asked if they used a torque wrench they can answer yes did check it with the torque wrench. They just sign off the ticket to make it seem like their going above and beyond. It's lug nuts not rocket science, if you can't hand start some nuts to prevent cross threading and properly secure them you need to be fired or be made to repair what you f-up. Take some money out of the tire mechanics paycheck and watch how fast his work quality improves.

captain planet
04-15-2013, 12:46 PM
Yes the stripped lug nut will eventually come off, the big tool companies sell "special" sockets that get pounded on that grips the nut and removes it, sometimes that doesn't work and have to get the ol' air hammer out. We're all the lug nuts gorilla tight, maybe the tire mechanic just f-up and stripped the one and didn't wanna get yelled at by his manager and decided not to say anything, as it would be 6 months before it was found . My shop is constantly repairing other "shops" f-ups...

They are probably going to tell you to pound sand, say something like were not responsible for something that happened 8 months ago, and prolly say well that wouldn't have happened if you brought it back for tire rotation, and will look at you oddly for using a 12 point socket on lug nuts.

Highly unlikely. I have bought two sets of tires from them for my personal vehicles. They are right across the street from our office and I send our company vehicles over to them for service when they need it. It is in his BEST interest to keep me happy. Not only that, he said they would take care of it without hesitation when I took it over to them this morning.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-15-2013, 12:55 PM
Highly unlikely. I have bought two sets of tires from them for my personal vehicles. They are right across the street from our office and I send our company vehicles over to them for service when they need it. It is in his BEST interest to keep me happy. Not only that, he said they would take care of it without hesitation when I took it over to them this morning.

Well there ya go, their taking care of their screw up, good on em.

thatsmrmastercraft
04-15-2013, 01:01 PM
Highly unlikely. I have bought two sets of tires from them for my personal vehicles. They are right across the street from our office and I send our company vehicles over to them for service when they need it. It is in his BEST interest to keep me happy. Not only that, he said they would take care of it without hesitation when I took it over to them this morning.

Well there ya go, their taking care of their screw up, good on em.

I have always said that anyone can make a mistake in the operation of their business, it's how they handle the problem that makes the difference between keeping/creating loyal customers or chasing paying customers to the competition.

captain planet
04-16-2013, 11:13 AM
I have always said that anyone can make a mistake in the operation of their business, it's how they handle the problem that makes the difference between keeping/creating loyal customers or chasing paying customers to the competition.

That is the route they took.