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View Full Version : Did I winterize correctly?


bfinley
10-22-2007, 10:33 AM
OK, so here's what I did. I put very few hours on my boat this summer (<10) due to an injury so I did't worry about changing the oil. In fact, the boat hadn't been touched since early July. Here are the steps I took:

1. I charged up the battery and got the boat running and warmed up off of a garden hose.
2. Pulled the two plugs on the block and the two on the exhaust manifolds and let the water drain out.
3. Took out the thermostat so I would be guaranteed that the antifreeze would go into the block
3. Put 5 gallons of pink RV antifreeze in a buck and disconnected the hose from the transmission cooler and put it in the bucket.
4. Started the boat back up and ran until the bucket of antifreeze was almost empty, then I fogged the motor until it stalled.

Of course at this point, the pink antifreeze is pouring is pouring out of all the drain hoes. Is that OK, or should I have put the plugs back in first.

Is there anything else that I should have done differently?

Brandon

bigmac
10-22-2007, 10:51 AM
OK, so here's what I did. I put very few hours on my boat this summer (<10) due to an injury so I did't worry about changing the oil. In fact, the boat hadn't been touched since early July. Here are the steps I took:

1. I charged up the battery and got the boat running and warmed up off of a garden hose.
2. Pulled the two plugs on the block and the two on the exhaust manifolds and let the water drain out.
3. Took out the thermostat so I would be guaranteed that the antifreeze would go into the block
3. Put 5 gallons of pink RV antifreeze in a buck and disconnected the hose from the transmission cooler and put it in the bucket.
4. Started the boat back up and ran until the bucket of antifreeze was almost empty, then I fogged the motor until it stalled.

Of course at this point, the pink antifreeze is pouring is pouring out of all the drain hoes. Is that OK, or should I have put the plugs back in first.

Is there anything else that I should have done differently?

Brandon

In its current owner's manuals, MasterCraft makes no mention of antifreeze in the winterization process. It's sufficient to drain the block, exhaust manifolds and hoses. Don't forget shower and heater, if you have them. They way I would do it (did do it) was to drain the block and manifolds, replace those plugs, warm up, suck up the antifreeze, fog til it dies, drain again by removing block plugs, exhaust manifolds, remove and drain RW intake hose, circulating hose. Pump antifreeze into the heater core. Remove impeller. The way my dealer does it is warm, drain, replace all drains, fill with -100 RV antifreeze.

I still would have change the oil. And I would remove the cover plate on the raw water pump, remove the impeller - put a new one in in the spring.

BrianM
10-22-2007, 10:52 AM
You should have put the drain plugs back in before sucking up the anti-freeze. Want to make sure it gets into all of the passages. You should have pink coming out the exhaust. Also did you stabalize the fuel? Should have done that first then ran for a good warm up to make sure it got into the entire fuel system.

And I agree with BigMac. I would have changed the oil anyway regarless of the low hours this season.

bfinley
10-22-2007, 11:20 AM
I did pull out the impeller and stabilize the fuel.

Do you think I sholuld put the plugs back in and suck in some more antifreeze?

32offer
10-22-2007, 01:50 PM
I also loosen the belts, and pour SeaFoam into each cylinder and crank a time or two to get it into the cyliners. Don't let the engine start.

JohnnyB
10-22-2007, 01:58 PM
I also loosen the belts, and pour SeaFoam into each cylinder and crank a time or two to get it into the cyliners. Don't let the engine start.


Isn't seafoam a fuel additive and thus somewhat volatile/evaporative? Why would you put this in the cylinders instead of a couple sprays of fogging oil?

bigmac
10-22-2007, 02:14 PM
SeaFoam is a better water dispersant than most fogging oil, and it is also will help get rid of varnish and gum in fuel intake passages and valve train. It's not a great lubricant, however and personally I wouldn't use is as a fogging oil. I'd use a ...well...fogging oil. Likely to have better film strength, provide better storage lubrication for cylinders, valves and crank bearings.

bigmac
10-22-2007, 02:17 PM
I did pull out the impeller and stabilize the fuel.

Do you think I sholuld put the plugs back in and suck in some more antifreeze?

Personally, I wouldn't bother. I'd just leave all those plugs and hoses detached. With the block drained that way, you have fulfilled the mfgr's recommendation for winterization and storage

bfinley
10-22-2007, 02:51 PM
Thanks BigMac

vegashomeexpert
10-23-2007, 12:15 PM
You will find out this spring. I have found that no matter how thorough I was winterizing, I always get an uneasy feeling when things get really cold.... And then it fires right up in the spring and its "all good!".OK, so here's what I did. I put very few hours on my boat this summer (<10) due to an injury so I did't worry about changing the oil. In fact, the boat hadn't been touched since early July. Here are the steps I took:

1. I charged up the battery and got the boat running and warmed up off of a garden hose.
2. Pulled the two plugs on the block and the two on the exhaust manifolds and let the water drain out.
3. Took out the thermostat so I would be guaranteed that the antifreeze would go into the block
3. Put 5 gallons of pink RV antifreeze in a buck and disconnected the hose from the transmission cooler and put it in the bucket.
4. Started the boat back up and ran until the bucket of antifreeze was almost empty, then I fogged the motor until it stalled.

Of course at this point, the pink antifreeze is pouring is pouring out of all the drain hoes. Is that OK, or should I have put the plugs back in first.

Is there anything else that I should have done differently?

Brandon

Tourney Team 197
10-24-2007, 02:48 PM
My 197 was serviced by the dealer before I purchased it. I have since taken over those duties and found that the block drain plugs had silicone tape on the threads similar to what you would see in your residential plumbing. Has anyone used this?

TMCNo1
10-24-2007, 03:00 PM
My 197 was serviced by the dealer before I purchased it. I have since taken over those duties and found that the block drain plugs had silicone tape on the threads similar to what you would see in your residential plumbing. Has anyone used this?

Some recommend doing that to prevent the valve body from sticking to the steel block and help them come out next time if they need to be removed and it makes a good seal.

bigmac
10-24-2007, 03:21 PM
My 197 was serviced by the dealer before I purchased it. I have since taken over those duties and found that the block drain plugs had silicone tape on the threads similar to what you would see in your residential plumbing. Has anyone used this?Tape, teflon paste, NevRseeze. IMHO the goal isn't watertightness but prevention of corrosion that might make it impossible to get the things out next time.

bdecker
11-04-2007, 05:57 PM
I decided to winterize myself this year, and have run into two hopefully minor "issues". Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have an MCX.

1- Heater hose won't come off on one end. Any tricks for getting these off? It is the end with the facet.

2- Fogging.... My engine never died during the fogging process. I sprayed for about 20 seconds. Should I pull the plugs and spray a little in each cylinder too? Also, the air intake valve did not close totally. Is this a problem? I pushed it open with a screwdriver slightly to spray oil in, could I have screwed something up? I actually turn it off and restarted it and sprayed for another 10 seconds or so. Should I start it again and spray until it dies?

Laurel_Lake_Skier
11-04-2007, 06:11 PM
I decided to winterize myself this year, and have run into two hopefully minor "issues". Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have an MCX.

1- Heater hose won't come off on one end. Any tricks for getting these off? It is the end with the facet.

2- Fogging.... My engine never died during the fogging process. I sprayed for about 20 seconds. Should I pull the plugs and spray a little in each cylinder too? Also, the air intake valve did not close totally. Is this a problem? I pushed it open with a screwdriver slightly to spray oil in, could I have screwed something up? I actually turn it off and restarted it and sprayed for another 10 seconds or so. Should I start it again and spray until it dies?
1. Try twisting the hose a bit before trying to pull it off.

2. You should have at least gotten some pretty heavy smoke out of the exhaust....that will let you know the oil is making its way through the intakes, cylinders and exhaust. I think getting enough oil in to kill the engine is easier with a carbureted engine. A shot of the fogging oil in each of the cylinders would be worthwhile. I do it on the theory that the oil will settle on/between the rings and grooves keeping them free. During the fogging process, it seems to me most of the oil ends up burning in the cylinders.

bdecker
11-04-2007, 06:39 PM
Thanks, I didn't notice any smoke... Will spray in the cylinders do the trick or does it make sense to start it again? Does it need to be hot for this? If not, do I need to hook up water or is it okay to run dry for the 30-60 seconds this should take?

As for the hose, I've tried twisting, prying, etc. Guess I just need to be more agressive about it...

bigmac
11-04-2007, 06:41 PM
I decided to winterize myself this year, and have run into two hopefully minor "issues". Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have an MCX.

1- Heater hose won't come off on one end. Any tricks for getting these off? It is the end with the facet.




Note that MC likes to glue those hoses on. It may not ever come off. I found that my heater hoses were glued to the heater. Made replacement difficult unitl I figured that out.

If your heater hose doesn't already have a double-barbed fitting, you should put one in. Just cut the hose and insert and hose clamp. Alternatively you can get a flushing T (Prestone Flush n' Fill) and put it in same way. Most hardware stores are likely to have that stuff.

Look at your heater hoses where they lie in the bilge - see if there isn't a barbed disconnect there on one of the lines. Mine came from the factory with one.

TOO-TALL
11-04-2007, 11:51 PM
OK, so here's what I did. I put very few hours on my boat this summer (<10) due to an injury so I did't worry about changing the oil. In fact, the boat hadn't been touched since early July. Here are the steps I took:

1. I charged up the battery and got the boat running and warmed up off of a garden hose.
2. Pulled the two plugs on the block and the two on the exhaust manifolds and let the water drain out.
3. Took out the thermostat so I would be guaranteed that the antifreeze would go into the block
3. Put 5 gallons of pink RV antifreeze in a buck and disconnected the hose from the transmission cooler and put it in the bucket.
4. Started the boat back up and ran until the bucket of antifreeze was almost empty, then I fogged the motor until it stalled.

Of course at this point, the pink antifreeze is pouring is pouring out of all the drain hoes. Is that OK, or should I have put the plugs back in first.

Is there anything else that I should have done differently?


Brandon

This will be the first time I winterized my boat and am alittle nervous.Thanks for all the tips on here.
Here is what I did.......Did i miss anything.

-Changed engine oil+filter .
-removed knock senser let water drain.
-removed plugs on exshaust manifoilds let water drain.
-removed shower connection on block let water drain.
-disconnect hose running to left and right exshaust risers let water
drain.
-Dissconnect heater hose and blow in hose.
-put all plugs back in and run 5 gallons of RV antifreeze threw motor and shower and heater.
-Put fogging oil in air intake and removed each plug and sprayed
fogging oil in each cylinder.
-Put 2 gallons of antifreeze in ballast system.
-Changed tranny oil.

H20skeefreek
11-05-2007, 08:44 AM
I'm not sure why you guys are draining the block, then putting the plugs back in and running antifreeze. Run the antifreeze through, and leave it, or pull the plugs then, but why drain it first?

And bdecker, NO DO NOT run the engine w/o a water supply!!!

TOO-TALL
11-05-2007, 08:05 PM
I'm not sure why you guys are draining the block, then putting the plugs back in and running antifreeze. Run the antifreeze through, and leave it, or pull the plugs then, but why drain it first?



I like to make sure all the water is out before running AF.Maybe its overkill but, better safe then sorry.

WTRSK1R
11-05-2007, 08:51 PM
I'm not sure why you guys are draining the block, then putting the plugs back in and running antifreeze. Run the antifreeze through, and leave it, or pull the plugs then, but why drain it first?


Mostly to ensure the antifreeze does not end up too diluted.

Covi
12-03-2007, 05:16 PM
I hear it's ok not to run AF through the engine? Is this true?

As long as the H2O has fully drained, realizing fulling drained would never completely happen. But, drained enough where the amount of water is so small if it were to freeze the expansion would not do any harm?

Environment?

Footin
12-03-2007, 05:38 PM
I never run antifreeze through mine, just make sure the drains are not clogged and drain the water. I take mine about 2 hours away for winter storage so the trip will pound out any left over water in the motor.

corey
12-03-2007, 05:39 PM
RV antifreeze is not designed to be diluted so if you use it use it with a drained block. Personally I look at RV like added insurance, it is cheap, effective and gives me peace of mind.

RV also makes winterizing your shower and heater easier, it can be difficult to get all of the water out of these items, adding RV and redraining the system can help make sure both items work in the spring, esspecially the heater!

André
12-03-2007, 05:43 PM
I hear it's ok not to run AF through the engine? Is this true?

As long as the H2O has fully drained, realizing fulling drained would never completely happen. But, drained enough where the amount of water is so small if it were to freeze the expansion would not do any harm?

Environment?
It's not ok for engines with Alumium heads like LT 1 but for a regular casr irons heads there's no problems.I drain mine carefully before launching.Read somewhere that it helps prevent rusting...

east tx skier
12-03-2007, 05:52 PM
RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) has a corrosion inhibitor in it.

bigmac
12-03-2007, 07:20 PM
It's not ok for engines with Alumium heads like LT 1 ....

That antifreeze/aluminum head thing is something I keep hearing repeated here, but it's always quoted as "I heard it from a guy". Nobody has ever proposed a reason or explained what the problem is. Call me stubborn (or whatever) but I've never been comfortable with "just because..." as a reason.

Personally, I'm not sure I believe that it's true with modern antifreeze. I'd like for somebody to 'splain it to me, and rationalize why it's a problem. I don't understand what it is about the chemistry of RV antifreeze that makes it hard on aluminum. Yes. I'm skeptical, but I'd certainly be open to a rational expanation.

east tx skier
12-03-2007, 08:03 PM
That antifreeze/aluminum head thing is something I keep hearing repeated here, but it's always quoted as "I heard it from a guy". Nobody has ever proposed a reason or explained what the problem is. Call me stubborn (or whatever) but I've never been comfortable with "just because..." as a reason.

Personally, I'm not sure I believe that it's true with modern antifreeze. I'd like for somebody to 'splain it to me, and rationalize why it's a problem. I don't understand what it is about the chemistry of RV antifreeze that makes it hard on aluminum. Yes. I'm skeptical, but I'd certainly be open to a rational exp[l]anation.

The original quote was from JimN circa 2003 (I have it printed out for some reason). No idea here the science behind it, but I'm generally comfortable taking his statements to the bank (not that I've ever had to rely on this on as my boats have all had cast iron cylinders). Based on that, it's in my winterization checklist as an aside. As for the reasoning behind his statement, I'll leave that for him to explain (although I know I've read the explanation before). But to answer the question, he is the source of that information as it has been repeated here for whatever it's worth.

After doing a search, I realize you've had this discussion with Jim before, so I realize I'm not telling you anything you didn't already know as far as the source goes.

Link (http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=19490&page=2&highlight=antifreeze+aluminum)

Covi
12-04-2007, 08:28 AM
In case you're wondering? NO antifreeze for me.