View Full Version : Engine Teardown
10-16-2007, 07:11 PM
i am going to have the motor done this off season like some of my other threads have lead to...tring to get as close the Benj's motor as i can...my question is about travel, need to get the boat to a mechanics with a chain hoist to pull out. is it safe to disconnect the transmission before i get the the shop? or do i need to keep it connected along with the motor mounts.
10-16-2007, 07:40 PM
Well the trans is the rear engine mount so unless you find a way to support the tail of the engine w/ the trans out I would leave it connected for holding it in place.
As far as a chain hoist. The boat in a trailer is going to be very tall. Alot of crane type lifts will not clear your boat's sides. So a hoist would be better for that application.
10-17-2007, 09:29 AM
88, is that the whole trans or just the driveshaft connection?
10-17-2007, 09:56 AM
The engine has 2 mounts attached to it, one on the left and one on the right. At the rear it bolts to the bellhousing and to that the transmission is attached.
On the transmission there are 2 more mounts. again one per side, for a total of 4 places where the weight of the transmission and engine, as an assembly. Anytime you remove the transmission the engine must be slung or jacked such that it cannot move.
If you plan on trailering the boat the engine should be out or in someway secured. This will need to be very carefully devised if the transmission is removed, as the engine can drop and hti your hull by swiveling on the front mount.
The driveshaft is not load supporting, it just comes through the strut, through the stuffing box, and bolts to the rear of the transmission.
10-17-2007, 10:02 AM
thats what i thought, just wanted to make sure it was ok to disconnect shaft from tranny
10-18-2007, 07:58 PM
is this normal?
10-19-2007, 02:23 AM
I'll bite, what exactly is being shown in each image.
10-19-2007, 07:54 AM
is this normal?
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa218/87MCProstar/Motor055.jpgyes that is normal i have the same thing on my engine when i tore it apart and rebuilt it
10-19-2007, 10:21 AM
those pics are of the inside of the intake manifold, therm housing and circulation pump. looked pretty rusted and just wanted to make sure it was normal.
10-20-2007, 12:22 PM
I think what you see there is pretty typical for a raw water cooled marine engine. That's the difference between running a water/antifreeze cooling system mix with rust inhibitors in a car and pure H2O lake water in a boat. Good thing they still make some 100% cast iron auto engines for marine use. Otherwise we would all be running closed cooling systems. I suppose we will get to that point eventually.
10-30-2007, 10:57 AM
motor comes out of the boat on saturday!
10-30-2007, 02:13 PM
Keep us updated!
10-30-2007, 02:21 PM
you can slow the corrosion by using rv antifreeze when you winterize, but realy, not that big a deal.
11-03-2007, 10:56 AM
hey guys, pulled the motor out this morning, took all of 20 minutes with a chain hoist at a buddy's garage. it will be dropped off at the machine shop next week when i get an afternoon free...just wanted to send in an update
Cast iron rusts. You can't change that. It would take more years than most people have, for the block to rust through unless it's in really harsh water.
If you want to clean up the outside of the thermostat housing and re-paint it, go ahead. It'll hold off having water bypass the hose on the outside and cause a slight leak.
11-03-2007, 01:45 PM
after i got the tranny off noticed the flywheel has about half a dozen teeth missing...it is just a standard 351 flywheel right??
11-07-2007, 04:05 PM
can we change this topic to "engine disassemble", we tear down fences, old sheds etc.. be nice to your engine