PDA

View Full Version : Engine Removal


87MCProstar
10-09-2007, 10:06 AM
Hey guys anyone every remove their motors that have detailed information on how to do it. Looking to rebuilt block this winter but don't want to pay someone to take the motor out if i can help it. so any leads/tips would be great. thanks
tim

76S&S
10-09-2007, 12:34 PM
Leave the motor mounts attached to the engine. Unbolt the mounts from the stringers and pull mounts and motor out. This will eliminate any allignment issues when you go to reinstall.

Label the wiring and then take digital photos. Disconnect wiring and pull the motor. If you loose a label refer to the photos when reconnecting.

Slinkyredfoot
10-09-2007, 12:40 PM
Obviously you will also have to disconnect prop shaft from tranny and do what 76SS said on the motor mounts and wiring, It is really a pretty easy job...

mayo93prostar
10-09-2007, 01:02 PM
fuel hose, water intake hose, exhaust hoses too. trick is to get a lift that goes high enough to get the engine over the gunnel. good luck, take pics and post.

BuzzSr
10-09-2007, 01:22 PM
All good advice above. Take as many photos as you can stand. Also easier to pull the engine and transmission as one unit. Make sure your engine lift will clear the gunnel. If I am not mistaken you will need a lift that can go approx. 115" w/plenty of capicity so as not to tip over once you get it jacked up. Have plenty of help. You will need to totally remove your engine cover for access. Good luck

Dan K
10-09-2007, 01:24 PM
to save weight I pulled off the exhaust manifolds right on the boat and left the exhaust hoses attached to them. I also removed the tranny separately since it went off to rebuild as well.

87MCProstar
10-09-2007, 09:13 PM
guys this is going to help tremendously, does anyone have pics??

JLeuck64
10-10-2007, 02:29 PM
Yes I have removed and installed engines in boats a few times. I always fortunate to have either a boom truck or a fork lift handy. I guess I was lucky to have that type of equipment available to use because it sure made it easy...

Sorry I don't have pics to show you how. I would recommend taking lots of pictures before removing anything! They help a lot to help jog your memory when putting everything back together.

I only disconnected what was necessary to remove the engine and transmission together. Engine cover/floor boards, Fuel lines, Electrical wiring, Control cables, Fresh water hose, Exhaust hoses and Driveline.

It is really a good idea to check the drive shaft alignment periodically, especially after major work like this! The tolerances between the drive flanges is so small and it is impossible to get the engine back exactly where it was before removal.

JimN
10-10-2007, 04:43 PM
To keep the interior from getting messed up by the exhaust manifolds, I would remove them before the motor comes out. It'll be easier to set it to TDC with the manifolds off. Go to a paint store and buy a roll of plastic sheeting for protecting carpeting and put two layers down. If your lift isn't high enough, you can deflate the tires. Put tarp tape of tape a layer of thin carpet over the gunwales. Add padding underneath. That way, if the motor does hit, it won't be as bad and if it's unprotected.

If you can, get an engine stand. If you want, get one at Harbor Freight, use it and sell it later. They're pretty cheap, now. Chain hoists are cheap, too. Get a piece of chain that will support more than the motor could possibly weigh and get some shackles, so that when you lift it, it can hang and not be a capacity problem. Mount the old motor on the engine stand and leave the new one on the pallet until the intake manifold, valve covers, distributor and upper accessories have been installed. Then, lift it and move the engine stand close so you can remove things from the old motor and install them on the new one immediately after. You won't lose any bolts or parts. If you want to clean and paint things, go ahead. Take photos if this will take more than part of one day. Use air tools! Make sure the gasket set is for marine use! Make sure that the torque wrench used is accurate and things are torqued in the right pattern.

Laurel_Lake_Skier
10-10-2007, 06:41 PM
Make sure the gasket set is for marine use!

Jim

What's the difference in the gaskets? I am planning on swapping the heads and intake manifold over the winter/spring and got a set of gaskets for the 351 from FelPro....figured they would work for me. What do I need to check for? What's the difference?

Thanks in advance

87MCProstar
10-10-2007, 09:36 PM
i love all the great info and heads up with this future project for the winter!

JimN
10-10-2007, 10:06 PM
Sometimes, the openings for coolant in the intake manifold are different sizes when you compare them, sometimes they're different materials. FelPro makes marine gasket sets- I have used them. Depends on the materials and some are more impervious to water seepage/absorption.

87MCProstar
10-11-2007, 07:46 PM
great to know, i am looking forward to tackling this project within a month.

Slinkyredfoot
10-11-2007, 07:55 PM
Well then, lets get some pictures posted of this project...this is what I did not do, and I am still ticked at myself for not documenting my Mastercraft piece of work....

stars79stripes
10-12-2007, 01:34 AM
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/mpjwalsh/DVC00303.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/mpjwalsh/DVC00302.jpg

mayo93prostar
10-12-2007, 07:11 AM
stars, did you pull the boat out from under the engine? it does not look like the engine is high enough. nice a-frame hoist.

stars79stripes
10-12-2007, 12:26 PM
Yes, I pulled the boat out after I let the air out of the tires. These pics were taken early in the process. I built the A-frame too short, so it was a juggling act. I had to lift the trailer tongue to tip the back of the boat down. It wasn't too bad, but I did it by myself, would have been nice to have had some help.