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View Full Version : Using RV antifreeze to winterize????


91ps190
09-26-2007, 08:59 PM
I just read a post where it was mentioned and was hinted to that this is bad. Didn't want to highjack the post so here is another started for it. Whats bad about using this. I have only done it this way once for last years storage because I heard about it from a dealer in Calgary and it seemed the enviro way to go. I used to use auto anti-freeze but you know you always spill a little bit :rolleyes: in the process so I thought the RV stuff might be easier for Al Gore to accept. But now I am wondering. Lets hear it!!! Thanks.

east tx skier
09-26-2007, 09:17 PM
As far as I know, propylene glycol (pink) antifreeze is fine. Sierra makes an enviro friendly antifreeze as well.

erkoehler
09-26-2007, 09:57 PM
RV antifreeze is premixed with water, so when you further dilute it with the water from the engine you may not have enough protection remaining........

mitch
09-26-2007, 09:59 PM
Doies the MC manual mention anything about using anti-freeze, pink or otherwise as part of the winterize process?

east tx skier
09-26-2007, 11:13 PM
My 93 manual didn't. Eric is right about the pink stuff. If you use it, don't dilute it. Might be hard with water initially in the engine, but run a bit more I guess.

Probably a good time to mention that I don't bother with antifreeze.

JimN
09-26-2007, 11:29 PM
The pink stuff is fine as long as the heads aren't aluminum. Apparently, it's OK for intake manifolds, since they're Al, too.

Regular car coolant is nasty stuff and should never be allowed to get into any waterway or ingested by animals because it shuts down just about every internal organ, almost immediately in sufficient quantity.

I would recommend draining the block to make sure it doesn't dilute as much.

mitch
09-26-2007, 11:31 PM
My 93 manual didn't. Eric is right about the pink stuff. If you use it, don't dilute it. Might be hard with water initially in the engine, but run a bit more I guess.

Probably a good time to mention that I don't bother with antifreeze.

Me either and my boat is below zero frequently in the winter. Did not use it on my 351w either. Never had a problem.

Isn't it a little early for a pink antifreeze thread. This will one of 40 by xmas:D

Laurel_Lake_Skier
09-26-2007, 11:35 PM
Warm the engine (this is done first so the exhaust manifolds/hoses don't get overheated while warming the engine later without water moving through them) then drain the block and manifolds. Fill a bucket with 3 or 4 gallons of the pink stuff. Pull the cooling hoses off both exhaust manifolds and plug one of them with a stopper. Put the open one into the bucket along with the raw water intake from the trans cooler (you may need some additional hose to reach). Run the engine long enough to be sure the thermostat has reopened while the antifreeze is circulating through the loop you have created.

I might add, just before shutting down the engine pour in your fogging oil.

At this point, the engine will be full of full strength antifreeze and you can plug the second hose to the exhaust and reconnect to the trans cooler. I've done this for a number of years on my boat and for several friends.....we have cold winters in northern Wisconsin and no problems using this method.

bigmac
09-26-2007, 11:59 PM
Don't use the -50 RV antifreeze - it's designed for drinking water and has no corrosion inhibitors. Get the -100 marine stuff.

http://images.westmarine.com/large/208341.jpg

88 PS190
09-27-2007, 12:04 AM
I drain my block as per instructions, then pour marine antifreeze into the raw water pump in, and place the hose in a bucket of marine antifreeze, turn it on till it sucks all the antifreeze in.

Then leave it.

The marina I used to work at had a large tub of antifreeze, they used a bilge pump and a battery to pump the fluid into Lower Unit muffs, or a flush kit, and then start the pump, and the engine. They don't then even remove plugs or hoses, just run it like that till it flows undilluted.

bigmac
09-27-2007, 12:10 AM
The marina I used to work at had a large tub of antifreeze, they used a bilge pump and a battery to pump the fluid into Lower Unit muffs, or a flush kit, and then start the pump, and the engine. They don't then even remove plugs or hoses, just run it like that till it flows undilluted.
My MasterCraft dealer is doing that to my boat at this very moment.

Leroy
09-27-2007, 12:11 AM
I did the RV antifreeze one year and after hearing that was really an unnecessary step have not done it the past 2 years with no problems....know on wood.

Really a pain to time the bucket of antifreeze and fogging and turn off the engine.....

bigmac
09-27-2007, 12:15 AM
I did the RV antifreeze one year and after hearing that was really an unnecessary step have not done it the past 2 years with no problems....know on wood.

Really a pain to time the bucket of antifreeze and fogging and turn off the engine.....


I agree. I decided it was easier and more satisfying to just pay my dealer the $125 to do it for me.

Leroy
09-27-2007, 12:19 AM
You have a great dealer there Bigmac! I always love the 16-20 hours it takes me to winterize. Man what a job, in the garage every night for 3-4 hours...work-drink-repeat!:D

I agree. I decided it was easier and more satisfying to just pay my dealer the $125 to do it for me.

bigmac
09-27-2007, 12:29 AM
You have a great dealer there Bigmac! I always love the 16-20 hours it takes me to winterize. Man what a job, in the garage every night for 3-4 hours...work-drink-repeat!:DYou forgot the part about the wife feeling greatful for all the work you're doing on your expensive investment, and all the money you're saving. 16-20 hours at $95 per hour shop rate and you've saved the family a lot of dough.

Footin
09-27-2007, 01:01 AM
No antifreeze for mine either, drain the block and exhaust, and pull off the hoses.

Leroy
09-27-2007, 01:06 AM
:D That might pay for the beer I drink that week! I don't think any shop would take me in for regular winterizations!

It is my good bye to my boat for the winter, stereo playing the whole time, ahhh, almost that time again!

You forgot the part about the wife feeling greatful for all the work you're doing on your expensive investment, and all the money you're saving. 16-20 hours at $95 per hour shop rate and you've saved the family a lot of dough.

88 PS190
09-27-2007, 01:55 AM
I don't see how it takes you more than 4 hours to winterize, the way I see it, start, warm up, trailer, drain water, antifreeze start, turn off, drain oil, fresh oil. Crank up pressure washer, blast down hull. Dry, wax. Allow carpet to dry out, vac. carpet.

Thats less than 4 hours of actual work, anyday, any time.

With 16 full hours I could have both boats winterized, the dock and shorestation out, pressure wash the dock and shorestation, get boats in sheds, drive the tractors around a bit for fun. And then kick up my feet. Hardest part is getting a second person to drive the boat, or finding 3 other people so you don't need to drive to the marina to pull the boats twice.

NeilM
09-27-2007, 10:46 PM
I use RV antifreeze in the heater (I disconnect the hoses from the block), the shower, and the ballast systems.

Everything else is disconnected & drained per the MasterCraft manual. Never had a problem and it gets to -40 here...

It takes me the better part of a day to winterize - change oil, change trans oil, wrap the tower in plastic wrap, empty out everything out of the boat, grease the steering, lube the cables, clean the interior.

Leroy
09-27-2007, 11:37 PM
I'll take a picture for you this year.......

I'm really busy out there!

I don't see how it takes you more than 4 hours to winterize, the way I see it, start, warm up, trailer, drain water, antifreeze start, turn off, drain oil, fresh oil. Crank up pressure washer, blast down hull. Dry, wax. Allow carpet to dry out, vac. carpet.

Thats less than 4 hours of actual work, anyday, any time.

With 16 full hours I could have both boats winterized, the dock and shorestation out, pressure wash the dock and shorestation, get boats in sheds, drive the tractors around a bit for fun. And then kick up my feet. Hardest part is getting a second person to drive the boat, or finding 3 other people so you don't need to drive to the marina to pull the boats twice.

91ps190
09-28-2007, 01:37 PM
I use antifreeze as I am paranoid of just draining but it probably isn't neccesary as the garage nevers gets that cold. Neilm - why do you wrap the tower???

JimN
09-28-2007, 02:11 PM
"but it probably isn't neccesary as the garage nevers gets that cold"

Never say "never". I was in LA for the holidays in '91 and my cousin's pipes burst in Menefee, CA, which is pretty far south.

Roonie's
09-28-2007, 02:13 PM
My MasterCraft dealer is doing that to my boat at this very moment.

Mine too in fact you will probably pic yours up before mine. Mine should be in the yard still as I am getting a couple other things done to it at Midwest. Look for the red and white 07 X2 and it is mine.

Roonie's
09-28-2007, 02:15 PM
I have been using the RV antifreeze in our cabin for some time now. I throw some in all the traps and behind the toilet. I have gone up there when it has been -30 degrees exterior and about 5 degrees interior and the water/antifreeze mixture in the toilets has never been frozen. I dilute the rv antifreeze all the time since I pour it in with existing water in toilets and just enough to make it turn pink. I have yet to see it freeze diluted down.

bigmac
09-28-2007, 04:31 PM
Mine too in fact you will probably pic yours up before mine. Mine should be in the yard still as I am getting a couple other things done to it at Midwest. Look for the red and white 07 X2 and it is mine.

IIRC you're in the Twin Cities. Midwest MasterCraft is a great dealer, by reputation. I live a couple of hours north of there and use the other MasterCraft dealer in this state. They're good too.

Roonie's
09-28-2007, 05:57 PM
Where is the other dealer in the state? I heard of one in Fargo ND am I right?

bigmac
09-28-2007, 07:01 PM
Where is the other dealer in the state? I heard of one in Fargo ND am I right?C&C Boatworks, in Crosslake, about 15 miles north of Brainerd.

NeilM
09-30-2007, 07:09 PM
I use antifreeze as I am paranoid of just draining but it probably isn't neccesary as the garage nevers gets that cold. Neilm - why do you wrap the tower???

Boat spends the winter outside. Wrapping the tower lessens the corrosion that tends to otherwise form over the winter months. Calgary's winters are incredibly variable in temperature: we get repeated cold & thaws over a winter.

André
09-30-2007, 07:22 PM
Boat spends the winter outside. Wrapping the tower lessens the corrosion that tends to otherwise form over the winter months. Calgary's winters are incredibly variable in temperature: we get repeated cold & thaws over a winter.
What a country you live in...8p
Move to texas...:rolleyes:
Hope you're doing great!:)

Leroy
10-01-2007, 01:24 AM
I spent 3-4 hours out there Friday night, checked every nut and screw in the whole boat to make sure they were tight. Found a couple missing nuts that I need to get like one screw on one of the pop up cleats. Also checked around the engine and wire to PP was touching the valve cover gasket and secured it. It's the small stuff.

I do take a relaxed attitude toward the winterization!

I don't see how it takes you more than 4 hours to winterize, the way I see it, start, warm up, trailer, drain water, antifreeze start, turn off, drain oil, fresh oil. Crank up pressure washer, blast down hull. Dry, wax. Allow carpet to dry out, vac. carpet.

Thats less than 4 hours of actual work, anyday, any time.

With 16 full hours I could have both boats winterized, the dock and shorestation out, pressure wash the dock and shorestation, get boats in sheds, drive the tractors around a bit for fun. And then kick up my feet. Hardest part is getting a second person to drive the boat, or finding 3 other people so you don't need to drive to the marina to pull the boats twice.

TRBenj
10-04-2007, 05:06 PM
Don't use the -50 RV antifreeze - it's designed for drinking water and has no corrosion inhibitors.
That may be true, but I would still think that filling the block with the pink 50deg RV antifreeze is better than leaving it dry. Surely the pink stuff cant cause more corrosion than water, can it? I leave water in the block all spring/summer/fall without any problem.

Willski
10-04-2007, 08:23 PM
I use regular anti-freeze, and I just drain the manifolds and block, then take the water intake hose, hold it above the engine and pour in until the hose fills all the way up, or antifreeze comes out of the exhaust. I also pull the impeller because it seems to allow the antifreeze in easier. I have done it for 10 years with no problems.

JimN
10-04-2007, 09:00 PM
"I use regular anti-freeze"

willski- you mean regular car anti-freeze? The green or red stuff? What do you do to get it out when you put it in the water the first time of the year?

bigmac
10-04-2007, 10:13 PM
Yeh, I see no reason to use something as toxic as ethylene glycol and go through all the driveway trouble of draining, recovering, and disposing of it when it's just as easy to use propylene glycol, which is non-toxic.

ride
10-04-2007, 10:37 PM
Threw this in a thread a while back, but got no response so I'll try again. Back in the mid-90's my dealer would winterize by draining the block and disconecting the hoses, pulled the impeller out, and would run the engine w/o a hose hooked up while in his shop bay. IIRC, his tech hooked something up to closley monitor the block temp as not to over do it, but he basically let the temp of the block steam any remaining water out. I always questioned the method, but I also never had issues when I owned that boat ('94 210 TBI) and all work was covered by the dealer anyway.
Sooo.... does anybody else remember their dealer doing this? Also, (JimN, EN) was this a technique that MC and/or Indmar approved their dealers to do?

As a post script, this particular dealer is no longer dealing as he sold out somewhere around '00.

JimN
10-04-2007, 11:37 PM
I wouldn't try to run it that way. If it isn't run for too long, it won't do much but there's no way to see how hot the internal areas of the block and heads are.

MC leaves it up to the dealers but they specifically said that alcohol based anti-freeze is not recommended for the LT-1.

Alan had a shop and they would do haul-outs in fall. They got to the boat, added fuel stabilizer, oil/filter change, ran it to the launch, fogged it, shut it down, pulled off to the side so they didn't hog the ramp so they could pull the hull and block plugs, disconnect the hoses, crank it over to clear out the pumps and let it drain while they drove back to the shop. By the time they got there, the block and hull were drained and all they needed to do was disconnect the battery, clear the speedo lines and ballasts, clean whatever was needed and cover it.

Scott
10-25-2007, 08:24 AM
I have never seen my dealer use any type of antifreeze. Are they doing wrong or is it optional???:confused:

bigmac
10-25-2007, 08:49 AM
I have never seen my dealer use any type of antifreeze. Are they doing wrong or is it optional???:confused:Sounds like he's doing what MasterCraft and Indmar recommend for their winterization procedure.

JohnE
10-25-2007, 08:54 AM
Joe at MC of Charlotte just talked me through my first winterization. He told me to just pour the antifreeze down the J-hose until it came out the thermostat housing. That's what I did, very easy. The whole winterization was very easy. Now that I'm familiar with the process, the next time will be so much quicker.

bigmac
10-25-2007, 09:13 AM
Boat spends the winter outside. Wrapping the tower lessens the corrosion that tends to otherwise form over the winter months. Calgary's winters are incredibly variable in temperature: we get repeated cold & thaws over a winter.

I would think that wrapping the tower with something impervious in the winter would mostly just trap moisture that condenses during all that freeze-thaw, freeze-thaw, and hold it next to tower...thereby increasing the liklihood of corrosion.

Roonie's
10-25-2007, 09:35 AM
A little off topic but I was reading in the 07 manual states with the CAT system not to fog the engine while running as it could hurt the CAT. Remove spark plugs and spray in that way.

Willski
10-25-2007, 10:11 AM
"I use regular anti-freeze"

willski- you mean regular car anti-freeze? The green or red stuff? What do you do to get it out when you put it in the water the first time of the year?

Green stuff. 1/2 water/1/2 antifreeze. I have drained the block back into the bilge then collect it from the drain plug. Not easy. I'm also sure that it doesn't all come out. Is it safe to let the RV antifreeze run out in the water?

sand2snow22
10-25-2007, 10:33 AM
Green stuff. 1/2 water/1/2 antifreeze. I have drained the block back into the bilge then collect it from the drain plug. Not easy. I'm also sure that it doesn't all come out. Is it safe to let the RV antifreeze run out in the water?

Yes, the RV stuff is supposed to be OK for the environment....and it won't kill your dog like the green stuff....

bigmac
10-25-2007, 10:53 AM
Yes, the RV stuff is supposed to be OK for the environment....and it won't kill your dog like the green stuff....

Let's be clear...antifreeze color is manufacturer specific and not necessarily related to type or toxicity. You can't assume ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, OAT etc based on color because it may vary from mfgr to mfgr. The color isn't inherent to the type of antifreeze -- the mfgr adds the color of their choice as part of the blending process. They may make a general attempt to provide some standardization, but looking at the color is absolutely no substitute for reading the label.

Here's three different colors of propylene glycol - all non-toxic

http://images.westmarine.com/full/004_134_003_504.jpghttp://images.westmarine.com/full/208341.jpghttp://images.westmarine.com/full/3556610.jpg

JimN
10-25-2007, 11:03 AM
As long as "the green stuff" is green RV anti-freeze, fine but green car/truck anti-freeze is specifically forbidden by the DNR, EPA, and every other agency unless it's in a closed cooling system and even then, the Sierra (or equivalent) non-toxic coolant should be used.

Roonie's
10-25-2007, 11:27 AM
I think if it says RV antifreeze or marine use you can bet it is non-toxic.

edit; this is a general statement about what to look for if your looking for non-toxic antifreeze.

JimN
10-25-2007, 11:34 AM
I was responding to "green stuff", which says nothing about RV. BigMac's photos shows that but the other post didn't.

dsoby
10-25-2007, 11:39 AM
Not to be a jacker but why is RV/Marine antifreeze bad for aluminium. Most Sea-doo owners that I know, including the local dealer, winterize with it.

bigmac
10-25-2007, 12:10 PM
Not to be a jacker but why is RV/Marine antifreeze bad for aluminium.

It's not. There has been concern in years past, mostly in Europe, that phosphates can cause precipitation (deposits) to form on aluminum in hard water. OTOH, phosphate is good for aluminum - prevents cavitation erosion. Do you remember the Scirocco, VW's first water cooled engine? There was general uproar when those owners had to get their antifreeze changed and found they had to use some German brand at $12/gallon. Then, Chrysler came out with the Omni/Horizon which used that exact same engine and Chrysler recommended standard US antifreeze after lengthy testing. Generally, the amount of phosphate in US antifreeze brands is low enough that this just hasn't been a problem. The concern from some areas about RV antifreeze is that its primary corrosion inhibitor is phosphate-based.

If you're concerned, I'd recommend you give Indmar a call. My bet is that they'll tell you that you can use phosphate-containing antifreeze in your aluminum-head engine. Of course, first they'll tell you that antifreeze is NOT a necessary part of winterization procedures.

I'd be inclined to put the RV antifreeze/aluminum prohibitions in the "old wives' tales" category.

JimN
10-25-2007, 12:55 PM
We were specifically told at MC training that RV anti-freeze should not be used on the LT-1. Call MC or Indmar to find out why.

"I'd be inclined to put the RV antifreeze/aluminum prohibitions in the "old wives' tales" category."

Aluminum is a very reactive metal and because of this, I would lean toward being cautious. If it causes pitting near the gaskets, a failure will occur. Not something I would want happening at WOT.

bigmac
10-25-2007, 01:04 PM
We were specifically told at MC training that RV anti-freeze should not be used on the LT-1. Call MC or Indmar to find out why.

"I'd be inclined to put the RV antifreeze/aluminum prohibitions in the "old wives' tales" category."

Aluminum is a very reactive metal and because of this, I would lean toward being cautious. If it causes pitting near the gaskets, a failure will occur. Not something I would want happening at WOT.

Old wives' tale, IMHO. I'd like to see the recommendation against in writing, along with an explanation. Too much worldwide voodoo on the subject for me to buy it at face value.

JimN
10-25-2007, 01:30 PM
Do what you want. This has been beaten to death, every year, since I got here. MC and Indmar set up the motors, GM built them, someone tested them and MC/Indmar enforce the warranty. MC's trainers told us to not use it because it's corrosive to aluminum. I suspect Alan knows what he's talking about. You, apparently, think otherwise without knowing him or his staff, so like I said, do what you want.

Engine Nut- any thoughts?

Voids in cast iron or aluminum, filled with air, won't expand and cause cracks. Water left behind from silt, sand, other organic material and blockages will. I don't particularly care if anti-freeze is used, or not. As long as the vast majority of the water is gone, the chances of a block, head or exhaust manifold cracking is very slight.

KnoxX2
10-25-2007, 01:36 PM
Here is an easy fix.......................................:rolleye s:

Don't winterize and use it all year! :D

P.S. Keep mine in the garage and never winterize.

bigmac
10-25-2007, 02:49 PM
Do what you want. This has been beaten to death, every year, since I got here. MC and Indmar set up the motors, GM built them, someone tested them and MC/Indmar enforce the warranty. MC's trainers told us to not use it because it's corrosive to aluminum. I suspect Alan knows what he's talking about. You, apparently, think otherwise without knowing him or his staff, so like I said, do what you want.

Engine Nut- any thoughts?

Voids in cast iron or aluminum, filled with air, won't expand and cause cracks. Water left behind from silt, sand, other organic material and blockages will. I don't particularly care if anti-freeze is used, or not. As long as the vast majority of the water is gone, the chances of a block, head or exhaust manifold cracking is very slight.


The only explanation I've ever seen about using RV antifreeze with aluminum heads here has been you relaying something you say you once heard from someone at MC and took at face value without knowing the reason. I'd be interested to know WHY antifreeze shouldn't be used in an aluminum-containing engine (in case I ever get a boat with an LT-1 engine :rolleyes: ).

Yes. This question comes up every year, and never gets answered. Maybe we'll get lucky this year.

Patrick Hardy
11-09-2007, 03:40 PM
I have a 1996 190 w/ LT1. I have owned it for 10 years now and have been told by four different local dealers/service departments over that time four different answers. Two said that you could use it and two said not to use it. They all had some long winded explanation for their view. I just follow the recommended winterizing guidelines and skip putting any antifreeze in the engine. I have never had a problem so far. Better safe than sorry.

I am with KnoxX2 - use all year if you can - set up engine, heater and shower with quickdrain connectors and drain system completely after every use.

bigmac
11-09-2007, 05:40 PM
I have a 1996 190 w/ LT1. I have owned it for 10 years now and have been told by four different local dealers/service departments over that time four different answers.


Ask each of those 4 dealers what engine oil you should be using sometime. The answers are likely to be just as accurate.

Patrick Hardy
11-09-2007, 09:49 PM
Bigmac your dead right, in my experiences they all give you the answer of whatever product(s) that their supplier is pushing. It would be nice if MC dealers / service dept.'s and engine manufacturers were on the same page ? It sure would be nice / easier for us end users !

mc79
11-27-2007, 01:19 AM
Here are a couple of points that have NOT been made multiple times:
1. It is Oxidation, not Corosion that is a problem. This happens in the presence of oxygen, which is most likely to occur when there is air in the system instead of water or antifreeze.
2. If you don't plan to keep the boat long, (e.g. 20 years), antifreeze is not required. It takes a long time for the exhaust manifolds to rust through. The previous owner of my '79 MC did not use antifreeze. The exhaust manifolds are intact, but I purchased a bucket full of rust in each manifold of a "fully rebuilt" engine.
3. My MC Owner's manual specifically recommends using "Zerox or Prestone". Apparently, poisoning a fresh water lake was not a concern in 1979 or there were no environmentally friendly alternatives.

This point was made once but bears repetition: the Pink RV antifreeze is intended for drinking water systems. It contains no rust inhibitors. Don't know why, but it carries the warning "Do not use in automotive cooling systems radiators".

JimN
11-27-2007, 01:25 AM
It's not to be used in automotive cooling systems because it's anti-freeze, not coolant.

TRBenj
11-27-2007, 10:23 AM
3. My MC Owner's manual specifically recommends using "Zerox or Prestone". Apparently, poisoning a fresh water lake was not a concern in 1979 or there were no environmentally friendly alternatives.
Im sure it doesnt tell you to blow the coolant out into the lake come springtime either. The beauty of RV antifreeze is that you can do just that. If you use the toxic stuff, its recommended to drain the block in the spring and capture it all.

Otherwise, good points. Agree with JimN on the coolant.

88 PS190
11-27-2007, 11:14 AM
Im sure it doesnt tell you to blow the coolant out into the lake come springtime either. The beauty of RV antifreeze is that you can do just that. If you use the toxic stuff, its recommended to drain the block in the spring and capture it all.

Otherwise, good points. Agree with JimN on the coolant.

you could... but probably shouldn't.

It is afterall not toxic but it is still pollution.

So if you can just dump the stuff in a bucket to get most of that junk outta there.

mc79
12-03-2007, 10:06 PM
Touche' Jim. Still, the pink antifreeze does not contain rust inhibitors. Didn't mean to preach, just provide clarification on why marine antifreeze mentioned earlier in the thread might be better. By the way, I just winterized with pink RV antifreeze because I couldn't find a higher grade of marine antifreeze locally. I figure it is better than having air in the engine block and exhaust manifold.

JimN
12-03-2007, 10:56 PM
"It is after all not toxic but it is still pollution."

It is toxic because it contains alcohol, technically, but not if it's highly diluted. There's bound to be something that dies if it can't get away from the plume when the motor is started but again, it will be very dilute.

JimN
12-03-2007, 11:02 PM
"Touche' Jim. Still, the pink antifreeze does not contain rust inhibitors. Didn't mean to preach, just provide clarification on why marine antifreeze mentioned earlier in the thread might be better. By the way, I just winterized with pink RV antifreeze because I couldn't find a higher grade of marine antifreeze locally. I figure it is better than having air in the engine block and exhaust manifold."

I don't remember anyone saying it has rust inhibitors. Water doesn't have any, either, but I don't see anyone freaking out about that and there's water in these motors all season long, which is usually longer than winter. If you do or don't use anti-freeze, the motor won't dissolve over the winter. People used nothing for a longer time than RV juice has been around, I would imagine. Cars used to be cooled with water, then they started adding things to it, some of which were on long road trips and there was usually one source of "water", which was the driver and passengers. The RV/Marine anti-freeze has lubricating properties, which are good for the impeller when it won't be replaced. We like to replace them (don't we?) but many boaters don't do this annually.

east tx skier
12-03-2007, 11:28 PM
Touche' Jim. Still, the pink antifreeze does not contain rust inhibitors.

Peak RV antifreeze says on the bottle that it contains a rust inhibitor (or anti corrosive). Granted, this is not long term as would be required for cooing an engine. But am I missing something?

east tx skier
12-03-2007, 11:32 PM
The RV/Marine anti-freeze has lubricating properties, which are good for the impeller when it won't be replaced. We like to replace them (don't we?) but many boaters don't do this annually.

Jim, my local boat mechanic essentially told me the opposite, i.e., that the rv antifreeze tends to eat up the impellers over layup. I'm not really concerned as I change them every spring, but you guys saw positive effects from it?

JimN
12-03-2007, 11:47 PM
I saw a lot of vanes ripped off because they stuck to the housing. Whatever effect the anti-freeze has on the rubber depends on which anti-freeze is used. At the first place, the owner who stole the company refused to buy it in barrels, so they were constantly running out to buy more cases of gallon jugs. That was the run-of-the-mill pink stuff. The second place had a clue and my shop got a pallet of four 50 gallon drums of -50º (I think that was the rating- it's been a while) and I had a big plastic watering tank that was filled with it, so I could run the motor on that, instead of running it on water and changing over at the end. That way, there's no doubt at all as to whether the thermostat closed prematurely and water stayed in the motor- there was no way it wasn't just anti-freeze. I never saw a single impeller that seemed to have any damage from it. Your mild winters may be the reason. Yeah, that's it!

Hear anything from Brian?

east tx skier
12-03-2007, 11:57 PM
Hear anything from Brian?

Yeah, got an email from him over the weekend. Got there safely and is set up pretty well.