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mrprostar
09-14-2007, 05:09 PM
I just bought a 96 Prostar 205 and it has a few minor problems I would like to get worked out. First, it only does about 35 mph no matter what/who is in it. It is a 350 chevy with throttle body injection. It runs excellent other than top speed. Pulls really well out of the hole just tops out early. Top RPM is about 3900. Second, the alternator is bad and I can't seem to find one that I know will work. Where can I find it? Finally, is there anyway to repair worn screw holes in the fiber glass. I have several stripped screws causing rattling, etc.

92 190 PS
09-14-2007, 05:12 PM
Sure there will be several along soon to help you out that know more about the issues than I. You should have no problem running that boat in the 42 to 43 MPH range if it's propped right. Do you know what pitch prop it has on it now (it should be stamped on the center of the prop)? Three or 4 blade. I'm guessing your RPM's should be more in the mid 4000 range again if it's propped right.

Good luck and welcome to the board.

east tx skier
09-14-2007, 05:18 PM
Easiest thing first, clean the flame arrestor. May not solve your problem, but it could be that easy. Next thing to consider is fuel delivery. May be time for a filter change. May be the fuel pickup or pump.

That's the Holiday Inn Express answer. Just waiting for the sma't kids to get here.

Oh, and you can get that alternator at your local MC dealer or www.skidim.com. Or, you might be able to get it rebuilt by a local shop who knows about marine alternators. Marine is key. You don't want sparks in the bilge.

BrianM
09-14-2007, 07:18 PM
First thhing I would check is the prop. If it is bent it could be causing all of your problems.

JimN
09-14-2007, 07:38 PM
If you need an alternator, go to a rebuild shop and have them do it. It's less than a new one and if they know what they're doing, it'll be just as good. Plus, you don't have to worry about whether it's going to be a match.

See if you can try another prop. Is the alternator just discharging over time or is it not putting out the correct voltage? If the voltage is low, you may not be seeing the right RPM.

Stripped out screw holes can be filled and re-drilled, or you can use the next larger screw.

mrprostar
09-15-2007, 07:01 PM
The prop is a three blade. It says 17 on it, I think, but it is cut off by the nut. I will clean the flame arrestor and see what that does. The fuel injectors look old and gunked up. Would fuel injector cleaner help at all?

JimN
09-15-2007, 08:41 PM
If you can get Sea Foam, use that. WalMart and NAPA sell it. How well/smoothly does it idle? What is the idle RPM? If you can get a timing light, check the base timing. Do a search here for the procedure for putting it in diagnostic mode. Checking it without being in diagnostic mode will tell you nothing since the timing mark will jump around.

How old is your gas? If it's old, you will never get top performance. Additives will do nothing for old gas. If it's old, get rid of it properly. A dirty flame arrestor is like running a marathon with a sock stuffed in your mouth.

What is your elevation? If you're above 3000', it could explain part of your power loss.

mrprostar
09-17-2007, 01:47 PM
I will try the Sea Foam. It idles very smooth at about 800. I have a timing light so I can check that in diagnostic mode. The mechanic we took it too completely drained the fuel and changed the fuel filters and cleaned the screens on the pump. We ran it in Kansas and it ran one or two MPH better than it did here in Northern New Mexico at about 8000 feet. What is the best way to clean the flame arrestor? It looks pretty clean inside and out but that doesn't mean its not clogged a little bit. Knowing the evelation issue, I'm shooting for anything over forty.

JimN
09-17-2007, 02:06 PM
800 is nice but it's supposed to idle at 600. 10 BTDC is where the base timing should be set, in diagnostic mode.

You can use whatever de-greaser you want. Carb cleaner, brake cleaner, etc. I like NAPA carb cleaner, but it's not the nicest chemical. Ventilation and eye protection are needed. Don't get it on paint that you want to keep- it'll peel it instantly. Vinyl, ditto. If you can easily see through the spaces on the arrestor, it could be relatively clean.

Thrall
09-17-2007, 04:10 PM
Welcome. You must be the only other person in NM w/ a Mastercraft! I've been here 3 years now and have yet to see one on the lake!
If everything checks out fine w/ the engine, you may just be overpropped for the altitude.
What engine/trans does your boat have? You mentioned a "17" on the prop.
Any boats w/ the 1:1 trans will be ruunning a 13x13 down to about a 13x11 prop.
Boats w/ teh Powerslot trans (1.5:1 gear reduction) will be running a 14x18 to about 14x16 prop. (DOn't know all the avaliable pitches that are compatible w/ this model).
SOunds like you may have a "slot" in which case you may be running a 14x"17".
8000' is going to zap alot of hp from the boat........over 20%.
The highest I've run mine is at Abiquiu, which is 6800' IIRC. W/ the stock 13x13 I was only getting 35-37mph out of her. I went down to a 13x11.5 Acme 541 model prop and gained back most of the lost top end up at that lake. I've also run that prop down at low elev (Missouri) and did not over rev at all, and the boat was fast as he!!.
Just some other food for thought.

mrprostar
09-18-2007, 04:35 PM
I have yet to go to Abiquiu, but I've heard its really nice. We have been going to El Vado and I have never seen better water. Glass until 11 or 12 everyday. I'm not sure which transmission I have. It is the 350 TBI engine. Where should I look to see which transmission I have? This is my first Mastercraft and I'm learning about them as we go along. If I do have the "slot" transmission, I should go to a 14"x16" prop?

Ben
09-18-2007, 04:47 PM
Another thing with a boat you got used may be if the prop had ever been reconditioned. We have a "new" and "recond" 13x13 prop. I don't remember exactly, but think that the difference is about 3-4 mph & a few hundered rpm's wide open.

Thrall
09-19-2007, 11:45 AM
I have yet to go to Abiquiu, but I've heard its really nice. We have been going to El Vado and I have never seen better water. Glass until 11 or 12 everyday. I'm not sure which transmission I have. It is the 350 TBI engine. Where should I look to see which transmission I have? This is my first Mastercraft and I'm learning about them as we go along. If I do have the "slot" transmission, I should go to a 14"x16" prop?

Abiquiu is similar. Unless it's windy, the water is usually glass until lunchtime, then it gets a little busier. Haven't made it up to El Vado or Navajo.
If you have a Powerslot trans, there s/b a tag on the trans that says the gear reduction (I don't have one, so not sure). Also, the 'slot boats will have a 14"x18 pitch prop (stock), whereas the 1:1 boats have a 13x13 prop, stock. In general, less pitch will give you more of a hole shot and less top end, to compensate for less power (altitude), or more weight (ballast). More pitch will have the opposite effect.
If you're looking for prop reccomendations, call Bill at Acme Marine, or Eric at OJ Propellors. They are both very helpful and know what to reccomend if you're shopping for the right prop.

mrprostar
09-28-2007, 01:21 AM
I checked and have 1:1 tranny so what would be a good prop for high altitude? We also believe the thermostat is stuck open and it is running excpetionally cool (about 110 or lower). Would this make a 20 to 30% difference in performance? The list of off-season projects is quickly increasing. I want the boat to do everything it is designed to do. My family is content with the way it is, so none if this is life or death. Just want to get the most out of her.

JimN
09-28-2007, 10:06 AM
At normal operating temperature, it'll be a bit rich at high altitude and running cold makes it deliver even more fuel. Check the oil cooler, too. If the sensor doesn't see any water, it won't register the correct temperature either, and it can definitely indicate lower than what it really is.

Content or not, make sure it's running right or you will have more trouble later. Running rich can introduce gas to the crankcase and the diluted oil doesn't lubricate very well.

ride
09-28-2007, 02:17 PM
I checked and have 1:1 tranny so what would be a good prop for high altitude?

As for props, I run at 6800'-7,k' and get the best punch out of the OJ 13X11 CNC with my LT-1,1:1. If yours is a regular TB injection and 1:1, I'd have to think that anything with a "14" anywhere on it is way too much for high altitude. Drop EricOJ a PM. With deposit, he might let you test a different size to find the one that works best for you.

mrprostar
04-17-2008, 09:46 AM
Well its been a few months now and I can test some of the things you all helped me with before. First, the alternator was rebuilt at $110 and still doesn't work so we are taking it back to that guy. I did all the tests talked about in other threads and determined it is still the alternator at fault. The low speed was still an issue on our first trip. The engine will rev to 5000 in nuetral with little problem but loaded, in gear in the water it was only about 3500 and 33 mph. Thats at about 4800 feet elevation. It pulls out of the hole very well just the top end is no good. I really believe it is a prop issue but I'm reluctant to drop $400 on a prop and that not be the problem. I have not adjusted the fuel pressure yet, that is my next step. I'm also reluctant to do that because I have no idea how much to turn the screw on the bottom of the throttle body. A guage is probably in order before I attempt it.

wats218
04-17-2008, 10:14 AM
Are you still using the same prop, the one with the 17 stamped on it? If you are, i would think that is definitely your problem. With the 1:1 transmission you should have a 13x13 or similar prop.

JimN
04-17-2008, 10:17 AM
Have you checked the fuel pressure? If not, start there. If you want to change the pressure by adjusting the regulator, is this the screw behind the metal seal at the base? I would think twice before doing that. If you're set on doing this, get a manual.

mrprostar
04-17-2008, 10:25 AM
I'm going to take a closer look at the prop tonight now that I have seen what the stamping is supposed to look like. JimN: thats what I was saying about the fuel pressure. I was advised to adjust it there but I have zero experience with throttle bodies. I can handle a four barrel carb or a turn the knob regulator but this seems like it would be easy to make it not run at all.

JimN
04-17-2008, 10:40 AM
If you want to test for whether lower pressure will help, gently pinch the soft fuel line before it gets to the pump. You'll need to have one person for this and another to drive the boat. If you get the results you want, you'll know that decreasing the fuel delivery will get the performance but I still think it's best to decrease the pulse width for the injectors instead of decreasing the pressure. If it's too low, it won't atomize properly. If the pulse width is decreased, it atomizes but the injector is open for a shorter time. They increased the fuel pressure from 18 lb to ~30 lb for a reason.

Contact Engine Nut about what you want to do. He works for Indmar.

FrankSchwab
04-17-2008, 04:18 PM
mrprostar -
Contact Eric at OJ for your prop issues. He's been very helpful for people working on prop selection, and has made an unbeatable (http://tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=390475&postcount=23) offer in the past.

/frank

mrprostar
04-18-2008, 09:51 AM
I took the castle nut off of the prop shaft and now can fully read that the prop is 13x13 which means we have another issues, most likely. Going down to a 13x11 wouldn't make a 6-9 mph and 1000 rpm difference, I don't believe. (Correct me if I'm wrong) Also we took the alternator back to the place we had it rebuilt and he tested it no good and said he would figure it out. He called ten minutes later and said it was missing a jump wire between the large output post and the post labeled S. Haven't tested it yet, but hopefully that takes care of that problem. Anymore suggestions on the performance? Should I just write it off to elevation?

EJ OJPROP
04-18-2008, 10:02 AM
First, replace the castle nut with a ny-lock. Second have the propeller checked to see what it actually is as it may not be 13 X 13 with the cup that it left with how many years ago. I will be happy to check the prop for you. A 13 X 11 should work just fine with your set up. Give me a call if you'd like to discuss.

Eric @ OJ Props
800-359-9730

mrprostar
04-18-2008, 11:08 AM
Thanks Eric. Do you think the prop change would make that much difference? Obviously if mine was defective it would, but if it wasn't, would going to 13x11 solve the problem?

Rallyspitman
04-19-2008, 04:31 AM
You could have a bad spark plug or a plug wire. I had it recently on my PS190. Runs fine at idle, revs fine and is only a little rough on the pickup. I traced it to a cracked spark plug. Replace the plugs and plug wires - they're cheap!

If it's your first MC you'll think it's fast out the hole with only 6 or 7 cylinders firing. Wait 'till you get it fixed!

EJ OJPROP
04-19-2008, 08:34 AM
Thanks Eric. Do you think the prop change would make that much difference? Obviously if mine was defective it would, but if it wasn't, would going to 13x11 solve the problem?


The prop change should make a difference. If the 13 X 11 does not improve performance we will have a better idea (as we are using a prop that we know what the baseline should be) of what to do next.

mrprostar
04-21-2008, 12:15 PM
Update: Found a loose fuel line out of the tank. Not sure if that will make much difference but it sure sounds different sitting in the driveway. Alternator is fixed due to the discovery of a missing wire. We are going to a lower elevation lake this weekend and I will let you know what happens. Next question...what is optimal temperature to run at? We went from no thermostat to a 160. Still seems cool at 150 - 160 operating temp.

JimN
04-21-2008, 12:36 PM
If the boat has two fuel lines (one supply and the other is a return), you got lucky. The loose one was the supply line and yes, it would make a difference because the pump couldn't pull enough fuel to provide adequate pressure. If you look in other fuel pump/performance threads, they usually say that any performance issue diagnostics should start with a fuel pressure test, and not just at idle. Pressure at idle has absolutely nothing to do with running at WOT or anywhere near that.

If you find that it revs to about 3000-3500 RPM and has a soft spot, check the screen at the pump's inlet for debris.

jimmer2880
04-21-2008, 07:44 PM
Mid summer, I run a 142 deg thermostat. Spring & Fall, I run a 160 for the extra heat coming out of the heater.

You should be fine with a 160, but may want to drop to a 142 the next time you buy a T-stat.

JimN
04-21-2008, 09:05 PM
That motor is supposed to have a 160 degree 'stat and that is what should stay. 142 is too cool and it'll never run efficiently with that one unless the water and air temps are really high. Cold motors aren't efficient, hot ones are.

Iman
04-21-2008, 09:40 PM
Yup, I was a little confused until you mentioned your elevation. That's your problem. You'll have to reprop your boat to get it to run much faster but that will sacrifice your holeshot. I'd just leave it alone. My boat seems to get ahead of itself when I'm running over 40 and come outta power anyways plus I rarely have a need to go that fast, especially with gas prices as they are.

Usually the best price on Seafoam, etc for me is Advance Autoparts, etc.

If a bigger screw won't help your rattles, carefully fill the hole with Marinetex (from most any marine supply store) allow a few days to set if possible then redrill and screw.

jimmer2880
04-23-2008, 08:56 PM
That motor is supposed to have a 160 degree 'stat and that is what should stay. 142 is too cool and it'll never run efficiently with that one unless the water and air temps are really high. Cold motors aren't efficient, hot ones are.

Jim, Maybe it changed, but I just double-checked my manual. It says 142 is what is supposed to be in it.

Did this change later? I always thought 142 was kind of cool anyway, but since that's what the manual called for....

Chicago190
04-23-2008, 09:17 PM
Jim, Maybe it changed, but I just double-checked my manual. It says 142 is what is supposed to be in it.

Did this change later? I always thought 142 was kind of cool anyway, but since that's what the manual called for....

I just looked at the manual the other day and it says either 142 or 160. I run a 160 and the gauge never moves past the 1/3 mark if i remember correctly.

JimN
04-25-2008, 09:04 PM
The only one I remember having a 142 was the LT-1, for pre-warming the water so it wouldn't be such a shock to the motor.

Engine Nut- can you clarify this for us?

Chicago190
04-25-2008, 09:50 PM
The only one I remember having a 142 was the LT-1, for pre-warming the water so it wouldn't be such a shock to the motor.

Engine Nut- can you clarify this for us?

I just checked again. The 1996 Mastercraft manual says either 142 or 160, but the Indmar manual only lists 160. I guess what the MC manual is referring to is the 2 thermostats on the LT-1. Thanks for clearing everything up.

JimN
04-25-2008, 10:15 PM
I only have the manuals from MC training and along with my steel trap mind (nothing gets in), I was a bit befuddled when I saw the reference to a 142 degree thermostat going in a non-LT-1.

jimmer2880
04-26-2008, 08:14 PM
It's no biggy to me, I'll just use the 160 all season now. I never have a problem over-heating. Although, in mid-summer, when my water temp is hovering around 90 I will run 180~ish with the 160 T-stat.

JimN
04-26-2008, 08:21 PM
As long as the fresh water supply is good, it shouldn't be a problem. They use 180-194 degree thermostats in cars and trucks, so a 160 should be fine.

mrprostar
04-28-2008, 02:09 PM
Update: After calibrating speedos with a GPS we got 37.1mph out of it at about 4000 feet. Last summer at the end we had 36 mph at 6000 feet and with the adjusted speedo the real speed was about 40. I think we are still running the winter fuel out of it and once we get through that it will bump also Another cleaning and waxing of the hull should help too. I think the fuel line gave us maybe 2 or 3 mph but the rest can be attributed to elevation. Thank you to all who helped.

JimN
04-28-2008, 08:24 PM
I don't remember if you commented but did you verify that the base timing is at 10 BTDC and the ECM needs to be put into diagnostic mode first.

mrprostar
04-28-2008, 11:01 PM
I have not verified this yet. I will have a chance in the next week or so to look at this to make sure it is right.

mrprostar
05-28-2008, 04:38 PM
There's been a lot of talk about RPM and speed this week which raises another question for me. I noticed this weekend we got about 39 mph but would top out at 3800 RPM and not a tick higher. That seems way to low. I have a 13x13 prop like we talked about before and going from 6000+ elevation down to 3000 +/- seems to make little to no difference. We are getting all of these bugs worked out just taking a lot of learning and even more time.

mrprostar
09-02-2008, 12:50 PM
Has anyone had this problem with dirty injectors? The last 15% of the throttle movement does nothing. From idle bogs down if accelerating to fast. Could this be dirty injectors?

JimN
09-02-2008, 02:46 PM
Did you ever check the fuel pressure, like I recommended? That's the first thing you need to do. If that's in the 30 pound range and doesn't change much from one speed to another, you should be OK, but it HAS to be tested under load. Test it after purging the gauge of air at key ON, idle, 3000 RPM and WOT (Wide Open Throttle). If it drops at the speed you mentioned, it probably has carpet fibers in the screen at the pump's inlet. Do a search for Fuel Pressure Issues and you'll see all kinds of info.

If that doesn't show anything, with the key OFF, unplug and re-insert the connectors on the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and MAP sensor. Also, look at the vinyl/rubber tube that connects the MAP sensor to the throttle body or intake manifold (whichever it has). It shouldn't have any liquid in it.

Don't ignore the recommendations that have already been offered. Get a can of Sea Foam and put it in the tank. If the gas is old, take a sample when you connect the fuel pressure gauge. If it's bad, drain the tank and put fresh gas in, disposing of the bad gas properly.

mrprostar
05-15-2009, 01:25 PM
Fuel pressure good. Sea Foam good. All fuel lines tight. Where are the MAP Sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor?

JimN
05-15-2009, 02:08 PM
If you checked the fuel pressure only at idle, you need to check it while the boat is under load. The standard recommended procedure is:

Test at:

Key ON/engine OFF
At Idle
At 2000RPM
At WOT

The MAP sensor monitors the vacuum under the throttle plate(s). Vacuum is highest at idle and as the throttle plate(s) open, they can't restrict the way they do when closed. The reading can be tested but you need to be careful to not damage the weatherproof silicone rubber seals. The throttle position sensor is somewhat more self-explanatory- it tells the ECM where the throttle is. The ECM is programmed so that if the TPS is at ≤2%, the engine is at idle and that's what determines how much fuel is delivered, assuming everything else is normal. Above 2%, the MAP sensor is responsible for telling the ECM how much load the motor is under, although the TPS can cause the ECM to make the fuel mixture richer (acceleration) or leaner(deceleration) by indicating a + or - 20% change in position.

If either the TPS or MAP sensor are bad, you should see a trouble code and your motor can be connected to a simple OBDI scan tool. You can also use a paperclip by connecting terminal A and terminal B on the DLC (Data Link Connector) and count the flashes of the check engine light.

Unless you actually know that one of these sensors is bad, I would advise against replacing them. One thing I would recommend is checking the hose that connects the MAP sensor to the base of the throttle body for leaks and cracks. If it has any, replace it.

Have you checked the PCV valve?

"The last 15% of the throttle movement does nothing. From idle bogs down if accelerating to fast. Could this be dirty injectors?"

Based on this comment, it sounds like the screen at the fuel pump intake is clogged but you can check for dirty injectors by removing the flame arrestor while it's running. If the spray looks like a cone with no gaps, they're probably clean enough to run well but the Sea Foam should remove whatever is left. To check the intake screen, remove the fuel line from the pump and look for fibers or anything else that may be in there. Also, if you haven't looked, check the fuel shutoff and anti-siphon valve at the top of the tank, next to the sending unit. The tank can collect all kinds of debris when you or a previous owner don't realize it. You might remove the gas cap while it's running, too. If you hear a whooshing sound, it would indicate a clogged vent tube. Spiders like to build nests in there.

mrprostar
05-15-2009, 03:17 PM
I should probably mention that it bogs on hard acceleration. Always have to ease into the throttle to get up to speed.

JMann
05-15-2009, 03:21 PM
Fuel pressure good. Sea Foam good. All fuel lines tight. Where are the MAP Sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor?

What is the seaform and what did you do with it? Is it something you only clean the spark arrestor with?

Thanks

mrprostar
05-15-2009, 03:27 PM
Its fuel injector cleaner, essentially. Cleans the entire fuel system according to the can. I think the can says you can put in the crank case too.

JMann
05-15-2009, 03:36 PM
I'm taking mine out for the first time on Sunday. I need to clean the spark arrestor before I go. I will use carb cleaner and call it done.

454Prostar190
05-15-2009, 06:02 PM
I just bought a 96 Prostar 205 and it has a few minor problems I would like to get worked out. First, it only does about 35 mph no matter what/who is in it. It is a 350 chevy with throttle body injection. It runs excellent other than top speed. Pulls really well out of the hole just tops out early. Top RPM is about 3900. Second, the alternator is bad and I can't seem to find one that I know will work. Where can I find it? Finally, is there anyway to repair worn screw holes in the fiber glass. I have several stripped screws causing rattling, etc.

Just a thought..... Is your throttle linkage opening the throttle body all of the way? If not, that would cause your early top end.

JimN
05-15-2009, 08:32 PM
I should probably mention that it bogs on hard acceleration. Always have to ease into the throttle to get up to speed.

Hard acceleration is a good test for fuel pressure. If it drops significantly then, you will see it with the gauge attached. That's why they recommend the four tests I posted. I repaired a lot of boats that did exactly what you described and all but a few had a blocked fuel pump screen or some other fuel related issue.

I forgot to mention that the fuel pickup tube should be checked, too. It should have a screen at the bottom and sometimes that gets clogged.

JimN
05-15-2009, 08:33 PM
Its fuel injector cleaner, essentially. Cleans the entire fuel system according to the can. I think the can says you can put in the crank case too.

You can put it in the crankcase but only just before an oil change.

mrprostar
05-17-2009, 03:30 PM
I have taken the pump out and am looking at the above mentioned screen and it looks partially clogged. How do you clean it out? Do you have to take the pump apart?

JimN
05-17-2009, 04:39 PM
I have taken the pump out and am looking at the above mentioned screen and it looks partially clogged. How do you clean it out? Do you have to take the pump apart?

You may be able to use tweezers to pull the stuff out.

mrprostar
08-24-2009, 12:36 AM
Update- new 13x11 3 blade prop. Better acceleration but still bogs a little off idle. We got 39 MPH at about 4000 RPM at a lake that is about 4200 feet in elevation. We had one instance of hard starting due to lack of fuel, I believe. Other than that it was a great day.

mrprostar
03-09-2010, 11:06 AM
I'm finally going to jump into this whole heartedly. So here are my questions.

Where is the best place to test the fuel pressure? I'm looking into putting the guage inline just above the filter, but would this help me? How could I test if the regulator is bad? From what I have read the pump is a two stage; could the second stage not be kicking in? I've checked all the causes of fuel blockage that are common (carpet fibers, bad fuel, filter clogged, etc) with no problems seen. So IF the fuel pressure is bad, what else could be the cause? All spark plugs have been checked, but they are being replaced this season to make sure. I will confirm the timing in diagnostic mode again when I de-winterize. Other suggestions?

Jim@BAWS
03-09-2010, 11:13 AM
I'm finally going to jump into this whole heartedly. So here are my questions.

Where is the best place to test the fuel pressure? I'm looking into putting the guage inline just above the filter, but would this help me? How could I test if the regulator is bad? From what I have read the pump is a two stage; could the second stage not be kicking in? I've checked all the causes of fuel blockage that are common (carpet fibers, bad fuel, filter clogged, etc) with no problems seen. So IF the fuel pressure is bad, what else could be the cause? All spark plugs have been checked, but they are being replaced this season to make sure. I will confirm the timing in diagnostic mode again when I de-winterize. Other suggestions?


Take screen out of pump and discard
Change Fuel filter (s) One on side of engine. Possible 2nd one on top of fuel tank
Run a tank of 89 and go for it

Jim@BAWS

mrprostar
03-09-2010, 11:14 AM
Also, please forgive me for not being proactive enough with the advice given. Thank you for your help so far and I will not be as lazy anymore.

Holman J.B.F
03-09-2010, 06:08 PM
i,ve had a problem like this before, a 98' 205 revs fine but under a load it wouldn,t rev higher than 3600 ,checked everything but it turned out to be the ingnition coil.
The distributor cap has a center pin with a spring underneath it....spring was rotten away,so i guess this bad contact may have caused an overload on the ignition coil.


maybe you can borrow one,and try it,..easy fix.

mrprostar
03-10-2010, 01:17 PM
Thanks for the advice. I will look into this, also.

mrprostar
03-16-2010, 10:07 AM
I've been reading about testing the coil by testing the ohms. What is the spec on this coil?

mrprostar
05-26-2010, 01:03 PM
Hopefully the final update on this three year problem:
I took the boat out this weekend with the sole purpose of getting it fixed. This was the first time I have had the chance to do that. This off season a lot of work was done on the boat so I wanted to check it out before memorial weekend. After striking a rock at the end of last season I had to...
1) Replace prop (13x11 OJ to a 13x10.5 Acme)
2) Remove driveshaft, straighten, and replace.
3) Replaced packing
4) Aligned engine, shaft, shrut.
5) Replaced broken steering cable
6) Replaced trailer with a new 2008 Extreme trailer.
7) Replaced cap and rotor.

Once we got to the lake it ran about like it did before hitting the rock except for overheating. I took out the thermostat in the triangle block on top of the engine and then it ran at 160 like it was supposed too. Still didn't get above 4000 rpm. I pulled out the timing light and my paper clip. I tried this once before but when I tried I thought I was jumping the wrong terminals because when I put the clip in it sounded like it was dying. I double checked that I was supposed to jump A and B. So back at the lake with the boat in the water I jumped them again and the RPM dropped to about 400 instead of going up to 1000 like it was supposed too. Brought the RPM up to 1000 in nuetral and put the timing light on it to see it was 4 degrees retarded (below the big valley). I brought it up to 10 degrees advanced and tightened the distributor bolt. I let off the throttle and pulled the clip out. It reved up to about 2500 for a few seconds then back down to 650 all on its own. Pretty cool. Now its getting almost 4400 RPM and 40 mph at 4700 feet in elevation. I believe this will get a little better as we run out the winter cob webs and old gas. Thanks to this board for all the help. I'd be much dumber if it weren't for you all. Once again forgive me for not being more aggressive with your suggestions from the beginning.

JimN
05-26-2010, 01:52 PM
Hopefully the final update on this three year problem:
I took the boat out this weekend with the sole purpose of getting it fixed. This was the first time I have had the chance to do that. This off season a lot of work was done on the boat so I wanted to check it out before memorial weekend. After striking a rock at the end of last season I had to...
1) Replace prop (13x11 OJ to a 13x10.5 Acme)
2) Remove driveshaft, straighten, and replace.
3) Replaced packing
4) Aligned engine, shaft, shrut.
5) Replaced broken steering cable
6) Replaced trailer with a new 2008 Extreme trailer.
7) Replaced cap and rotor.

Once we got to the lake it ran about like it did before hitting the rock except for overheating. I took out the thermostat in the triangle block on top of the engine and then it ran at 160 like it was supposed too. Still didn't get above 4000 rpm. I pulled out the timing light and my paper clip. I tried this once before but when I tried I thought I was jumping the wrong terminals because when I put the clip in it sounded like it was dying. I double checked that I was supposed to jump A and B. So back at the lake with the boat in the water I jumped them again and the RPM dropped to about 400 instead of going up to 1000 like it was supposed too. Brought the RPM up to 1000 in nuetral and put the timing light on it to see it was 4 degrees retarded (below the big valley). I brought it up to 10 degrees advanced and tightened the distributor bolt. I let off the throttle and pulled the clip out. It reved up to about 2500 for a few seconds then back down to 650 all on its own. Pretty cool. Now its getting almost 4400 RPM and 40 mph at 4700 feet in elevation. I believe this will get a little better as we run out the winter cob webs and old gas. Thanks to this board for all the help. I'd be much dumber if it weren't for you all. Once again forgive me for not being more aggressive with your suggestions from the beginning.

The RPM will climb to 1000 only when a diagnostic computer is used to put it in diagnostic mode. When using a paperclip or scan tool, it has to be made to go to 1000 RPM manually and then, base timing can be set but only at 1000RPM. That 14 degrees of timing retard makes a huge difference- instead of hitting about 45-55 degrees of total advance, you were only going to 31-41 degrees.