PDA

View Full Version : Starting problems after the winter


LSU97maristar
03-03-2005, 12:06 PM
Need some help here. I just took my boat out for the first time after the winter. I couldn't get it started and I noticed there was no fuel coming out of the injectors. I have a 97 maristar with the standard 5.7L engine. The engine turns but will not crank most likely because of the fuel.
As a side note, I just had the oil and transmission fluid changed about two weeks ago to get it ready for the season. Any help would be great.

east tx skier
03-03-2005, 01:00 PM
Did you happen to notice if the kill switch cord was loose or uninstalled. Sometimes it's the simplest thing.

I know I tend to turn the key on for 5 seconds, then off about 3 times before that first startup to prime it.

LSU97maristar
03-03-2005, 01:50 PM
the kill switch was definately in, i checked like a hundred times. But it acted like the kill switch wasn't right, which is why i assumed it may be electrical related

lakes Rick
03-03-2005, 04:44 PM
The plastic kill switch "cord/plug" can lose its shape over time and not push the kill switch button in all the way.. You might check it again and push the button in by hand.. With the newer boats its harder to diagnose with all the electrics, but always try the simple stuff first..

bradamerry
03-03-2005, 04:48 PM
The plastic kill switch "cord/plug" can lose its shape over time and not push the kill switch button in all the way.. You might check it again and push the button in by hand.. With the newer boats its harder to diagnose with all the electrics, but always try the simple stuff first..
Had that happen two yrs. ago, just bought a new one! No problems since :) !

rem_pss308
03-03-2005, 05:46 PM
Last summer my kill switch went bad, while on the river, I had to bypass it.
To check yours, you can unplug the coil, or sparkplug wire and insert a screwdriver, and see if it arks on the engine while someone cranks it for you . If there is no spark, then it could be your kill switch.

nashvillematt
03-03-2005, 11:29 PM
I was going to suggest the kill switch also. I made that mistake a while back...right after I totally freak out!

André
03-04-2005, 01:58 AM
There also a small reset breaker in the dash for the injection...

Leroy
03-04-2005, 04:25 AM
I would have guessed something in the fuel path since there is no fuel out the injectors? Is the pump running and putting out pressure.

Evan Jones
03-04-2005, 08:38 AM
I've got a '97 and last season had the same problem. When winterizing, I hit and disconnected the fuel pump electrical connection down behind the engine when pulling the hose for the raw water intake. It took me forever to figure it out. One in a million, but I thought I'd put it out here.

T Scott
03-04-2005, 09:04 AM
Did you happen to notice if the kill switch cord was loose or uninstalled. Sometimes it's the simplest thing.

I know I tend to turn the key on for 5 seconds, then off about 3 times before that first startup to prime it.

Doug,
Isn't your boat carbeurated? What are you trying to accomplish by turning the key on and off? I know on fuel injected models this would inject extra fuel and aid in cold starts.

Tom

LSU97maristar
03-04-2005, 11:22 AM
Well guys I'm starting to think it may be a bad fuel pump. I checked my kill switch, wiring to the pump and everything, nothing worked. I hooked a line directly from the battery to the fuel pump and it doesn't do anything.

Also, something that is kind of weird, when I turn the key the voltage is like 4.5 volts. If it were the kill switch, it should be zero at that point. Any other ideas? Does anyone know how much it costs to get a fuel pump?

east tx skier
03-04-2005, 12:02 PM
Doug,
Isn't your boat carbeurated? What are you trying to accomplish by turning the key on and off? I know on fuel injected models this would inject extra fuel and aid in cold starts.

Tom

Tom, I should've been more specific. Was referring to my father-in-law's boat, which is fuel injected like the 95 Maristar in question. With mine, per the manual, one pump forward to full throttle primes it before starting. Although, truth be told, this isn't really necessary with the fuel injected boats after the first of the season in my experience.

André
03-04-2005, 12:17 PM
Well guys I'm starting to think it may be a bad fuel pump. I checked my kill switch, wiring to the pump and everything, nothing worked. I hooked a line directly from the battery to the fuel pump and it doesn't do anything.

Also, something that is kind of weird, when I turn the key the voltage is like 4.5 volts. If it were the kill switch, it should be zero at that point. Any other ideas? Does anyone know how much it costs to get a fuel pump?

Where do you read 4.5 volts?
At the pump connector?

LSU97maristar
03-04-2005, 12:48 PM
yep, 4.5V on the wires that go to the fuel pump. Directly on top.

André
03-04-2005, 01:04 PM
When cranking?
Do you hear the pump priming at all when you turn to on?
But if you already tried to jump the pump directly to the batt...

MCPS205
03-05-2005, 02:01 AM
Be carefull about jumping yoru fuel pump like that. EFI engines use all sorts of wired voltages. I will check my merc manual for you, but i bet that 4.5V is right. Do you hear the pump turn on or off when you turn your key? Is it maybe a matter of not putting stabil in the gas and now the injectors are clogged? You should hear the fuel pump prime when you first turn the key... just one click to on, not crank.

MCPS205
03-05-2005, 02:07 AM
Ok, it is a 12v pump (in the merc's atleast). Manual says to check the pump relay before replacing the pump. I wish i had more info on where this is.

Storm861triple
03-05-2005, 01:06 PM
Well guys I'm starting to think it may be a bad fuel pump. I checked my kill switch, wiring to the pump and everything, nothing worked. I hooked a line directly from the battery to the fuel pump and it doesn't do anything.

Also, something that is kind of weird, when I turn the key the voltage is like 4.5 volts. If it were the kill switch, it should be zero at that point. Any other ideas? Does anyone know how much it costs to get a fuel pump?


If you ran a wire from a good battery to your pump, AND you had a good ground as well, and the pump didn't run, then your pump is pooched. Simple as that.

The relay isn't in the picture and doesn't matter if you're running 12 volts directly to the pump w/wires.

More complicated could be your "4.5" volts to the pump. ALL FUEL PUMPS RUN ON 12 VOLTS. You should see "battery" voltage at the pump at all times that the pump should be running.

John B
03-05-2005, 01:28 PM
[ Does anyone know how much it costs to get a fuel pump?[/QUOTE]

Last year when I looked into getting a new fuel pump for my boat it was $350 :eek:

JimN
03-05-2005, 06:16 PM
LSU- did you check for spark? If you have a timing light, hook it up as if you would in order to check your timing. If you have no spark during crank(as I suspect you will see), it points to the kill switch. If the starter cranks normally, the kill switch being bad will A) tell the ECM to not send spark, B) tell the ECM to not latch the fuel pump relay and C) your gauges may not show what they normally do. If you want to check voltages to the FP, do it at the relay. Remove the relay from its socket before you do anything else and see if it runs. You may have been reading 4.5V after the pump. Check your fuses. Don't just assume you have major parts going bad. It's common for a small thing to keep any boat from running, it's just a matter of looking for the problem in the right order.

LSU97maristar
03-07-2005, 01:06 PM
Ok guys, here is an update. This weekend i pulled the fuel filter and the gas is really nast coming out of there, so i changed that. I hooked 12V directly to the fuel pump and it still runs fine, so that is a bit of a relief. I traced the wires from the pump to the ECM, and I think I have a bad relay. I contacted the local dealer and I should be able to get a new relay today or tomorrow. Thanks for all your suggestions and help, I'll let you know how it turns out and if that was indeed the problem.

LSU97maristar
03-07-2005, 01:08 PM
also, i will sound like an idiot, but i thought my fuel pump was an in tank fuel pump. The original voltage tests I did were on the fuel sending unit. Now I am working with the right stuff though.

LSU97maristar
03-07-2005, 03:19 PM
does anyone know where I can get the plug that plugs into the relay? Do I have to buy a whole new wiring harness or what?

LSU97maristar
03-18-2005, 01:09 PM
The problem turned out to be the plug that hooks on to the fuel pump. The terminals were messed up and I don't know what the problem was, but it was weird. Thank you guys for all your help. I am off to the lake now :dance:

lakes Rick
03-18-2005, 07:30 PM
Did you put some Dialectric grease on the terminals before reinstalling the plug??????

JimN
03-18-2005, 10:02 PM
LSU- if you have a 97 Maristar, no, the pump isn't in the tank. They didn't go to that till 1999. The relay is just a Bosch 30 amp relay. If they ask more than about $8 for it, go to a car stereo shop. They use them all the time for door locks, trunk release, etc. It's a very common part. If the relay you find has a diode across the coil, even better. The harness is also easily available at car stereo shops. Nothing special, just needs to be soldered and heat shrink tubing to cover the splices.