View Full Version : Timing mode and reading diagnostic codes
08-25-2007, 11:07 AM
I'm going to do a tuneup and am looking for info on timing and potentially reading engine codes:
For a 2004 310 Predator TBI engine and/or possibly other engines.....
Through various internet searches I've come to understand that shorting pin A and B (jumper with paper clip) on the DTC connector (connector you'd plug a code reader into) will put the engine into timing mode. I also read that when the jumper is in place, the check engine light will display engine codes in the following manner:
1) turn key to on
2) engine flashes code 1-2 three times if there are no codes set
3) engine flashes codes after the first 1-2 if codes are set
Can someone confirm this information on this method for putting into timing mode and for reading codes......"I read it on the internet so it must be true"....doesn't hold here. I trust the folks here, though.
Also, confirm the location of the DTC connector for me....
I'm guessing this info will benefit many on the site.
The sequence begins and ends with three flashes of 12. Anything in between is a trouble code. It will flash 12 three times regardless of whether codes are stored or not. If it just flashes 12, there are no codes, although there are a couple of situations where it can have a faulty EEPROM and it may not show any codes. There will usually be some other demonstrable problem that goes along with that, however.
The DLC will be at the main engine harness. It has a black plastic cover on it and the terminals will be marked. You'll need to raise the RPM to 1000 to set the timing but if you see that it's set to something other than 10º BTDC, it's either due to not having been verified/set by the selling/prepping dealer or the distributor clamp bolt wasn't tightened properly. If the motor has crank sensors (no distributor), you can't adjust the timing.
If you see nothing from the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp), you need to have that repaired. It should be under warranty. If it's not just a bad bulb or LED, it's a problem with the harness and MC needs to be informed.
08-25-2007, 12:17 PM
Clarify for me. You need to jumper Pin A and Pin B and run it up to 1000rpm to verify the timing. Or, does jumpering it cause the ECU to run the engine at a constant 1000rpm......I'm sure i'd figure it out but always good to get verification from someone in the know :D
Running it with A and B connected will drop the RPM to about 400. The Tech 1 automatically runs it at 1000 RPM and can raise or lower it but most people don't have one.
08-25-2007, 05:39 PM
My idle is at roughly 600rpm (can't remember for sure, but much much less than 1000rpm). Jumpering A and B took it to 1000rpm right on the head.
The 1-2 code continually blinked while the key was "on" (before starting engine)
08-25-2007, 05:46 PM
The connector is under this panel.....
08-25-2007, 05:48 PM
Here's the panel removed.....
08-25-2007, 05:49 PM
this is the connector with the cover off....
The labels for each pin connector are molded in the plastic around the base....
08-25-2007, 05:50 PM
Here's the jumper installed......
By the way, the cover for the harness is the grey thing with the orange dots in the upper right corner.
08-25-2007, 05:53 PM
I installed new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I did find the timing to be about 14deg BTDC. Here are a couple pics of the rotor....the cap looked about as bad (I forgot to snap a pic).
08-25-2007, 05:54 PM
Another pic of the rotor....
OK, they have the ECM programmed to do that. Your idle speed is right where it should be. The RPM drops on my truck but I don't remember the last time I jumpered a boat's DLC.
Unless the calibration has changed, the dealer never verified the base timing on this boat. One of the first things we were told at MC training was "Verify Base Timing!". You backed it down to 10º BTDC, right?
08-25-2007, 08:57 PM
Yup....its 10deg BTDC on the head.