View Full Version : Clarion Remote Installation

08-21-2007, 10:52 AM
I have an 06' TT 197 with the CMD4. This boat didn't come with the stereo remote so I picked up a CMRC1 with 24' extension cable off of ebay.

Looking to install in the same location as the factory does. Took a brief look at the wiring. Appears that the existing IPOD jack wiring goes forward from the jack located adjacent the throttle. Appears to head towards bow area through gunnel. It re-appears on port side of boat behind the CMD4 from that gunnel.

I'm assuming this means the wire runs inside the gunnel all the way up under the bow navigation light, and back up towards throttle area.

Anyone have any input or ideas on how to run the CMRC remote wiring from the CMD4 to the right side panel near the throttle?



08-21-2007, 11:07 AM
Mine was run just under the seats in the bow around to the throttle. If I lift the cushions I can see the wire.

08-21-2007, 11:13 AM
I believe most go around the front. Your correct the wire runs around the gunnel. Should be PVC loops that are fiberglassed into the gunnel section of the boat? If there is not a wiring loop to tie into you should be able to wire the hot wire into the ingnition switch so it powers up with the stero. If you add one in the rear/helm you will need to get the Y spliter to make both work.

08-21-2007, 11:35 AM
I was able to see one PVC wiring ring on each side of the boat heading forward. Any idea how I would physically run a new wire? Is the gunnel area accessible if the 197's bow interior pads are removed? Does the fiberglass frame under the pads have openings? If so, how do I remove the interior pads. Perhaps I can just remove the speakers, that might give me enough room to pull the wire.

Not sure I want to run the wire under the seats, as this area is used for storage and I don't want to see the wire get snagged by a life preserver or slalom course bungee being yanked out.

I'm not going to do a transom or aft install, so the MC101 single cord will be fine for now.

Thanks for the replies, keep em' coming.


08-21-2007, 11:47 AM
It is easy enough to remove the cushions start with the outside ones pull them first then pull the front center one. it is accessible to run the cable there. Mine is just laying in the bottom under the cushions. Let me know if you need some pictures. My boat is a 2005 X7

08-21-2007, 12:00 PM
If you want to run around the bow under the seats and your worried about the wire go get some of that blue flexible conduit. You could secure it against the inside edge or up high around the outside edge.

08-21-2007, 12:12 PM
IPerhaps I can just remove the speakers, that might give me enough room to pull the wire.

This is how it is done. Start at the drivers side and you can reach the first pvc tube behind the kick panel. Then you should be able to reach the next one from the bow, and then the next one through the speaker hole. There is one right under the bow light you can reach from under the front bow cushion. Then continue on down the port side back to the radio.

08-21-2007, 02:04 PM
Here's an ignorant newbie question....

How do I remove the interior panels from the bow? I've looked briefly, and the answer didn't jump out at me in the form of a clip, bolt, screw, etc.

08-21-2007, 02:38 PM
I tried to run mine under the gunnel on my X-1, but found it was just impossible to do (after getting more than a few fiberglass splinters). I ran mine around the inner edge of the floor under the seat cushions and tied it down. It doesn't interfere with the storage at all and works fine. I later realized there's a space right under the floorboard where I could go straight across under the pass through. That's where I ran my ground wire to the battery.

08-21-2007, 04:20 PM
Jerry, no need for all that. Seriously.... THere is a factory installed pvc tunnel which runs under the walkthru ice chest from the storage area to just aft of the kickpanel on the drivers side... It's easy, once you find the tube. You can run all kinds of wire thru it, as it's about 2" if I remember right....

feel around at the base of that sidewall near the footrest on the drivers side and you will find the tunnel... I suggest fish tape to get it started

08-21-2007, 04:31 PM
This is a horrible pic, but it was at the Mastercraft Factory (can you hear the harps playing?) where i learned that there is a passageway for wiring which runs to the driver side under the walkthru..

08-21-2007, 04:52 PM

I agree with Rick there is a tunnel under the walk thru you just need to pull back the carpet to find it. Makes running cable easier. Remember to leave a pull string there in case you need any wiring in the future


08-21-2007, 04:54 PM
Great news! Thanks guys. Now as soon as it stops raining I'll head down there and check it out. Remote arrives tomorrow.

I'll try to take some pics of the install as it progresses.

08-21-2007, 05:04 PM
Some Pictures from my 2005 X7
Hope it helps.

You can push it out near your feet and run it to the corner and up near the steering.

Or you can just run it through this pipe.


08-21-2007, 05:10 PM
OOPS Double POST!!!

08-21-2007, 05:11 PM



It is your choice. I didn't install mine but my local dealer did.
Good luck

P.S. I could not find a pipe that runs under the cooler on my boat, I trust that it could be there but just didn't see it.

08-21-2007, 10:41 PM
Thanks for all the pics. The first two - referencing the battery - what did you do there? I see how you came off the head and went under the bow seat frame. Just confused how that all ties into the battery area.

08-21-2007, 10:58 PM
I just replaced my stereo and remote. I know there is a pipe chase connecting the 2 compartments, but I ran the wire around the bow. It was easier, and if and when I get ambitious over the winter, I'll find that chase and do it "right".

08-22-2007, 09:23 AM
Thanks for all the pics. The first two - referencing the battery - what did you do there? I see how you came off the head and went under the bow seat frame. Just confused how that all ties into the battery area. those leads in the battery pic go to the bilge. you wouldn't want to run your remote cable that way.

08-24-2007, 12:58 AM
Ok, install is complete . Thanks everyone for the input. Its great to have some ideas and know where to look for certain things with a project like this.

Ric - that passageway is there for the heater duct. I took a look at it, as I have a heater. The opening is just big enough for the flexible duct to go through, along with the heater wires. To shove the large ended remote wire through there, although possible, would have been tough to snake through then go upwards to pop out over or under the kick panel.

I decided it would be easier to run it forward with all the other wires. I removed the front speakers and began snaking forward. Went through that first visible FG hoop above the heater. Then I fished a piece of metal wire aft through the speaker hole. Hooked it up to remote wire and pulled. That got me to the left front speaker. Fished the wire into the right speaker hole - and pushed forward around bow. Once it was around the corner, I was able to get it out the left speaker hole to grab the remote wire and pull. I then pulled from above the kick panel.

Then I went to plug it in.....and discovered I had run it backwards. So....I did it all over again!

To install the CMRC1 I removed the 3 top screws securing the right side cockpit panel to hull. There was one rogue phillips head at the bottom. To get to that one required the seat to be removed or pivoted. I was able to remove 3 of the 4 seat track screws. The aft outboard one was not cooperating, so I had to settle for a pivoting seat. I was going to remove the side panel and do the install out of the boat. The throttle is mechanically rigged to the tranny, however. I decided to do the install in the boat (in the water.) Decided on a location and used a drafting compass to draw and position the 3" hole. Used a razor knife to cut away the rubber coating. Then I drilled a ton of holes around the circumference (did this in the water and didnt have cordless dremel.) Used a loose hacksaw blade to cut the piece out. Grinding wheel to smooth out inside of hole. Had to custom drill 2 new holes in the CMRC's backing plate. If it was put on horizontal, it would strike the FG gunnel. It is now nearly vertical for clearance.

Attached a positive and negative wire for backlighting, and re-secured side panel and seat. There was a factory installed harness wired into Nav light switch that wasnt utilized. I simply crimped the wires to this harness from the CMRC for backlight power.

Works great. I'll post pics tomorrow for anyone else who decides to do this.

Thanks everyone!