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Andyg
03-01-2005, 11:27 AM
I am looking at installing a second battery in my 2003 PS197 with the MCX and was wondering if anyone has done the install on a PS197. Where did you put the second battery? What brand/part # isolator did you use? Where did you mount the isolator?
Thanks

andyg

tex
03-01-2005, 12:55 PM
I am looking at installing a second battery in my 2003 PS197 with the MCX and was wondering if anyone has done the install on a PS197. Where did you put the second battery? What brand/part # isolator did you use? Where did you mount the isolator?
Thanks

andyg
my dealer is putting them in a battery container under the observer seat. you lose some storage space but they feel it is the only place.

86PowerSlot190MC
03-01-2005, 01:29 PM
I am looking at installing a second battery in my 2003 PS197 with the MCX and was wondering if anyone has done the install on a PS197. Where did you put the second battery? What brand/part # isolator did you use? Where did you mount the isolator?
Thanks

andyg

I’d love to but a second battery in my boat…. The stereo is killing my cranking battery?? I have to keep the engine running… Pain in the rear if you ask me!!!

I was looking at the Isolator from West Marine:

Battery isolator- 160 AMP/3Bank 389791 $239.99
Battery isolator- 70 AMP/2Bank 389825 $57.99
Battery isolator- 160 AMP/3Bank 389833 $104.99

I’ve also found these two sites interesting:

http://www.stellino.com/Battery%20Isolator.htm
http://www.hellroaring.com/

Hope this helps.

SteveO
03-01-2005, 01:35 PM
I just put one in the boat through my dealers stereo shop and they added a perko switch and the battery box under the seat. The switch and box was $85 installed. The stereo store recommended (even though he had the gel batteries for big $) an Interstate marine battery from Sam's which I got for approx $65.

86PowerSlot190MC
03-01-2005, 01:48 PM
What’s your alternator put out??? I had to replace my last year, so I upped it to a 100 AMP and then proceeded to fit some nice new high output amplifiers. They suck a lot of juice if the engines not running. And yes I nearly did get stranded in the middle of Lake Powell (no one around) :eek3: , so when I get the cash I’ll be installing the second battery!!

Do you have any more info on the perko switch????

OhioProstar
03-01-2005, 01:57 PM
BlueSea Systems also offers a good two way switch.

http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?Product_Id=31165&d_Id=7458&l1=7458&l2=


As an FYI I have about 30' of 1/0 Gauge black battery cable if anyone is looking to add or move a battery. Get with me on the details.

SteveO
03-01-2005, 01:59 PM
What’s your alternator put out??? I had to replace my last year, so I upped it to a 100 AMP and then proceeded to fit some nice new high output amplifiers. They suck a lot of juice if the engines not running. And yes I nearly did get stranded in the middle of Lake Powell (no one around) :eek3: , so when I get the cash I’ll be installing the second battery!!

Do you have any more info on the perko switch????

I feared getting stranded and the boat was in for a stereo upgrade so I just let them do it. Probably could have saved a buck , but figured I'd do it then or talk about doing it all summer and get stuck. A quick search revealed the following;

http://www.1-boating.com/Perko-battery-switches-1.asp

Not sure of my alternator size, just standard with MXC

ChrisG
03-01-2005, 02:00 PM
I'm not sure what the technical term was for my set up (I don't think its the perko set up), but I have both batteries under the observer's seat. My main battery is only used for start up, clock, ballast, etc, while the other battery is only used for the stereo when the key is turned off. When the key is turned on (engine running), both batteries are being charged by the alternator. If anyone has any idea what this set up is called, feel free to chime in. The guys at United Car Stereo (in Dublin, CA) felt this was a better alternate than using the perko switch.

martini
03-01-2005, 02:32 PM
The perko switch is just that, a manual switch. The entire electrical system still runs off both batteries usually. An isolator actually allows you to separate the 2 battery banks completely. Meaning one battery is connected to the starter, ignition and any accessories you wish it to be plugged into. The other battery, usually a deep cycle battery, is separate from the previous and powers anything else you want, like the radio. The isolator will actually charge the 2 batteries, but allow you to keep the circuits completely separate. The Perko switch can't do that.

BriEOD
03-01-2005, 02:59 PM
BlueSea Systems also offers a good two way switch.

http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?Product_Id=31165&d_Id=7458&l1=7458&l2=


As an FYI I have about 30' of 1/0 Gauge black battery cable if anyone is looking to add or move a battery. Get with me on the details.

Bill a few questions:

1) How much was that switch?
2) Where did you get the tub for the second battery and where did you mount it
3) If it is on a switch what do you do to keep both batteries charged?

Lance
03-01-2005, 05:44 PM
The BatteryLink from Blue Sea Systems is apparently a solution that automatically isolates one battery from the other but ensures both charge when engine is running. This is available at west marine for about $80 I think.

I definitely like the idea that once it is installed you don't need to do anything else. I haven't used it though so can't say how well it actually works.


http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?Product_Id=53476&d_Id=7458&l1=7458&l2=

Here is a link to the West Marine article that talks about setting up a 'reliable battery system'

http://mastercatalog04.westmarine.com/0613.asp

Ski-A-Rees
03-02-2005, 10:10 AM
That sounds better to me! I wanted to buy the switch but then I found out that some have a higher output than others and I kinda of got scared away. I have a indmar 454 and it takes alot of jucie to crank over so I'm not sure what i'm going to do. I need to rewire the entire boat anyway so i might not do the switch anyway. Does anyone have advice on that or should I start another thread?

Andyg
03-02-2005, 11:04 AM
Problem Solved. I am doing what SteveO did and am brining it to my local car stereo shop. I figure the last thing I want to do is fry my electrical system. Thanks for all of the ideas.


Andyg

OhioProstar
03-02-2005, 11:25 AM
Brian,
I think the switch was something like $25. I bought the battery box and battery from Wal-Mart and mounted it to the left of the ski locker as close the hull and forward as I could make it. I charge with the #1 battery which I ran all the electronics and starting directly to and only use the #2 for starting if the main is low. Normally I charge both batteries prior to any trip.

I researched the isolators and you need to remember that pushing the charge across two batteries will most likely require a larger alternator. An isolator runs the output in serial while the charge is delivered to the banks in parallel. This requires more charge to maintain the batteries at normal levels. I found that it was less expensive and with less points of failure....more reliable to run a switch.

BriEOD
03-02-2005, 11:46 AM
How do you have the other battery mounted? Did you cut into the floor to put in a tub? Also, do you just alternate between the 2 batteries while you're out? I'm not sure how you're keeping a charge on the one running your DC stuff (stereo stuff, etc.). Could you give me a little more detail. I like that switch.

OhioProstar
03-02-2005, 01:04 PM
The battery that is in the floor is my primary or #1 battery. It has the direct connections to the two amps I have. The #1 bank also gets the standard house load and the starting duties. If I need to start with a stronger battery I switch to the #2 bank which also switches the house load and the starter w/o amps. Once the engine is running I switch back to the #1 bank to recharge making sure to go through the "both" position as not to fry any of the relays to the alternator. I mounted the battery to the floor with some simple Stainless lugs. Basically I keep a good charge in the #2 battery and only use it when I have run #1 down. I think this year I will mount a 2 bank charger in the space next to the Aux battery so I can keep the batteries charged up everytime I put it in storage for the week.



http://www.overtons.com/cgi-bin/overtons/detail/pdetail2.cgi?r=detail_view&item_num=70852

BriEOD
03-02-2005, 01:29 PM
Thanks Bill,

I'm tracking now. I like that setup and it doesn't break the bank either. Diapers are getting expensive!! :D

SteveO
03-02-2005, 01:36 PM
Thanks Bill,

I'm tracking now. I like that setup and it doesn't break the bank either. Diapers are getting expensive!! :D


Brian,

Diapers and the liquid gold they call formula. I'm clear on the formula part, but still wastiing perfectly good money on a place for my 2 1/2 year old to #1 & 2 in. I hope (or I hope my wife) corrects the diaper solution by the end of summer.

Good luck on the battery project

86PowerSlot190MC
03-02-2005, 02:05 PM
The battery that is in the floor is my primary or #1 battery. It has the direct connections to the two amps I have. The #1 bank also gets the standard house load and the starting duties. If I need to start with a stronger battery I switch to the #2 bank which also switches the house load and the starter w/o amps. Once the engine is running I switch back to the #1 bank to recharge making sure to go through the "both" position as not to fry any of the relays to the alternator. I mounted the battery to the floor with some simple Stainless lugs. Basically I keep a good charge in the #2 battery and only use it when I have run #1 down. I think this year I will mount a 2 bank charger in the space next to the Aux battery so I can keep the batteries charged up everytime I put it in storage for the week.


Could I make a little suggestion??

For the same price as the 110v battery charger, you can get a battery combiner that will charge both batteries when the engine is running. You could even use the one for cranking only and the other battery just for the house load.

Here’s a link to West Marine, they have a nice little 50 AMP combiner.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&classNum=12106&subdeptNum=544&storeNum=9&productId=5461
Here’s some nice instruction on how they work.
http://www.yandina.com/acrobats/C50Data.pdf


Hope this info is helpful.

BriEOD
03-02-2005, 02:22 PM
Is this what you are running?

MasterMason
03-02-2005, 02:23 PM
Brian,

Diapers and the liquid gold they call formula. I'm clear on the formula part, but still wastiing perfectly good money on a place for my 2 1/2 year old to #1 & 2 in. I hope (or I hope my wife) corrects the diaper solution by the end of summer.

Good luck on the battery project


you think diapers and formula are expensive, just wait till you need to feed teenagers, and their toys are way more expensive as well. But on the other side of the coin, thats what it is all about anyway.

OhioProstar
03-02-2005, 03:54 PM
86, Thanks for the links. The main reason I didn't use a combiner/isolator is I didn't want to tax the alternator any more than I had to. It doesn't matter how much back up power you have if the alternator goes 20 miles away from the dock. Plus without a strong charging current the battery runs the risk of never charging fully. For $25 in the switch, $20 in cables, and $90 in the trickle charger I will have a fully charged AUX battery for an emergency start, completely isolated from a draw from the amps. For what its worth I have never drained the main battery to the point were I even needed the AUX. It is there for peace of mind. If you are planning on running multiple large amps it would make sense to run the isolator and upgrade the alternator.

BriEOD
03-02-2005, 04:11 PM
Bill,
What are you running for your primary battery? I assume your secondary isn't quite as stout as the primary. Right now I've got a West Marine Sea Volt it has 1000 cranking amps. Not sure what I want to do for a secondary. I'm leaning towards the route you took. I'm not pulling loads of power and I don't want to replace the altenator. But I would like the reassurance a second battery would provide. BTW where did you purchase that switch? That site doesn't have appear to have a purchase feature. Thanks for the info!!

ChrisG
03-02-2005, 04:34 PM
OhioProstar,

You bring up an interesting point. The guys who did my installation reccomended the "isolator" over the "perko" but didn't mention anything about upgrading my alternator. Is this something I should worry about? If not now, than later on?

OhioProstar
03-02-2005, 05:40 PM
Chris,
I think the newer MCX engines have a larger amp alternator for driving Wake Tower lights and the larger amps for tower speakers. You might want to check.

Brian,
The main battery is a 1000CCA Deep Cell Everstart from WalMart...Yellow and black. The backup is a 650CCA Sears Marine Diehard that came in the boat.

http://www.sailnet.net/store/item.cfm?pid=20554

86PowerSlot190MC
03-02-2005, 06:13 PM
I had to replace my alternator last year….. :cry: I replaced it with a 100 amp single wire marine grade alternator.

Next step is to upgrade the charging wire from the engine to the battery and if the reserve pot of money is back to norm install the second a battery.

milkmania
03-02-2005, 06:37 PM
I keep these in the trucks.....
when I go to the lake, I grab one and stick in the boat:worthy:

http://store1.yimg.com/I/brandsonsale-store_1830_117118935

timandjesi
03-02-2005, 10:47 PM
May be I am a little dense but I just don't need to have 1000 CCA's floating thru my boat in unintended places (AKA starter). I have two batteries, I just bought the second after I found the first one dead the other day, got the first one replaced under warranty. The boat had not been started for a while and I did not have a battery charger. I alos got a superwhamadine Sears automatic battery charger that automatically tends the battery when not in use. Okay , so I also picked up the simple perko switch to hook up the two batteries. I am not too sure why I have FOUR cables coming off of my one battery right now. TWO very large cables and TWO small ones. How would I hook up the two batteries to the switch? Do I need to route the two smaller ones (one currently in the boat from the positive and one small one form the new positive) to the perko switch? Then from the perko to the circuit breaker? The drawing should help, but the one in the perko box is VERY BASIC. I am just not sure where the other batter should hook in to the perko switch. If any body can point me back in the right direction...I would be most grateful.

tim

86PowerSlot190MC
03-02-2005, 11:27 PM
May be I am a little dense but I just don't need to have 1000 CCA's floating thru my boat in unintended places (AKA starter). I have two batteries, I just bought the second after I found the first one dead the other day, got the first one replaced under warranty. The boat had not been started for a while and I did not have a battery charger. I alos got a superwhamadine Sears automatic battery charger that automatically tends the battery when not in use. Okay , so I also picked up the simple perko switch to hook up the two batteries. I am not too sure why I have FOUR cables coming off of my one battery right now. TWO very large cables and TWO small ones. How would I hook up the two batteries to the switch? Do I need to route the two smaller ones (one currently in the boat from the positive and one small one form the new positive) to the perko switch? Then from the perko to the circuit breaker? The drawing should help, but the one in the perko box is VERY BASIC. I am just not sure where the other batter should hook in to the perko switch. If any body can point me back in the right direction...I would be most grateful.

tim

All you need to do is install a new red cable from the original battery to the number 1 connection on the switch. Then attach another new red cable from the second battery to the number 2 connection on the switch. Now, remove the large red cable from the original battery and connect it to the common connection of the switch. Once all that’s done connect a black cable from one battery to the other. I would recommend using the same size cable as was first installed by Mastercraft, 4GA or 2GA, I can’t recall off the top of my head.

Here's a PDF file from West Marine. The first page shows how to hook up an OFF-1-BOTH-2 (peko) switch. Just ignore the C50 combiner.

http://www.yandina.com/acrobats/C50Data.pdf

Hope it helps.

timandjesi
03-02-2005, 11:43 PM
Should I have to cut the terminal post connector off of the old battery cable(large red one) and put a lug that is a ring to connect to the perko switch???

milkmania
03-02-2005, 11:54 PM
this is from the .pdf link that 86PowerSlot190MC sumitted above


Since the connections made in the battery circuits can
carry hundreds of amps, it is imperative that you have low
resistance connections. This means having clean metal to
metal contact, the right size ring terminals, properly crimped
terminals (preferably soldered also), and secure mechanical
fastenings.

also, on my PS190, I cut off the old nasty looking ring connectors, and soldered new ones on, for peace of mind:)

Leroy
03-03-2005, 12:09 AM
also, on my PS190, I cut off the old nasty looking ring connectors, and soldered new ones on, for peace of mind:)


Soldering 0 or 1 cable, you're my hero Milk :worthy: