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View Full Version : Engine Overheating - Please Help!


tblanks
08-01-2007, 03:42 PM
Hey Guys, I'm a long-time lurker around here and have always found this site incredibly useful in helping educate myself about Mastercraft boats!

Yesterday, my wife and I put the boat in the water (2002 MC X-10) and begin to idle out of the no wake zone when the boat didn't feel right. I noticed that the engine started to overheat on my guage and a little smoke started coming out of the engine compartment. I sat and let it cool off but the wind drifted us out to the middle of the lake and being a Tuesday, there wasn't anyone to tow us in. So, I had to idle back to the dock.

My oil pressure guage was at zero, so could it be that my oil pump went out? Or the impeller? I'm terrified!

Any help or guidance would really be appreciated!!! Here is some video I took that might help with diagnostics.

http://video.tinypic.com/player.php?v=502x36w

I'm anxious to get some feedback since my dealer couldn't fit me in until August 13th.

THANK YOU !!!!

Chicago190
08-01-2007, 04:49 PM
Sorry I'm at work so I can't turn the volume up much, but is the boat making a knocking noise? Running it with zero oil pressure for any amount of time will certainly spell disaster...Sorry for the bad news, hopefully its nothing major and it wasn't actually at 0 psi.

bigmac
08-01-2007, 04:58 PM
Oh man...the horror of that video!

Makes me want to throw up on several levels... zero oil pressure, the smoke coming out of the engine, the pegged temp gauge...all with the engine still running!. The worst part IMHO is the loud knocking sound coming from the engine. I hope I'm wrong, but I suspect the only things salvageable now on that engine might be the flame arrestor. I wouldn't have cared if my wife was in labor - I wouldn't have run that engine.

Chicago190
08-01-2007, 05:04 PM
Yeah bigmac basically said what I didn't want too. Maybe its some consolation that the engine might have already been done by the time you realized the problem.

Roonie's
08-01-2007, 05:09 PM
That video made me go noooooooo! That is scary stuff. I would replace your impellar first. I am assuming you checked oil level and it was ok. Running that hot could have done some serious damage to your engine but hope not for your sake.

Also check your oil cooler as you may have weeds stuck in it. If unsure what this is it describes it clearly and the process of how to in your owners manual.

Jkelly
08-01-2007, 05:19 PM
The knocking is probably the valves, with the engine that hot the heads are most likely done. I pray you were at running Synthetic oil, it my have saved the piston, block, and crank and I stress may, but with that knock I fear the heads are goners.

Chicago190
08-01-2007, 05:20 PM
That video made me go noooooooo! That is scary stuff. I would replace your impellar first. I am assuming you checked oil level and it was ok. Running that hot could have done some serious damage to your engine but hope not for your sake.

Also check your oil cooler as you may have weeds stuck in it. If unsure what this is it describes it clearly and the process of how to in your owners manual.

I definately would not just replace the impeller. There is a slim chance that if it was run at 0 psi that the engine may not be completely destroyed. Starting it again could finish it off completely. Start by checking the oil level to see if you had a massive leak which led to the loss of oil pressure (unlikely). Then drain the oil and look for metal shavings which will indicate spun bearing or other internal engine damage. I'm not sure how to check the oil pressure sending unit, but thats where I would go next to see if it is functioning properly.

Roonie's
08-01-2007, 05:27 PM
I saw another of his posts and he said he checked the oil level and it was fine so I can only hope for the best otherwise his engine is shot.

http://mymastercraft.com/Forum/view_thread.cfm?postid=4888&forum=3&category=2

JimN
08-01-2007, 05:56 PM
"I sat and let it cool off but the wind drifted us out to the middle of the lake and being a Tuesday, there wasn't anyone to tow us in. So, I had to idle back to the dock."

Don't EVEN tell me that you don't carry an anchor or an oar!

There is a possibility of the oil pressure not being indicated for reasons other than actual loss of pressure, like the gauge not working properly. First things first. Mark the rotor's position in the distributor (what it's pointing to) and remove the distributor. If the split pin is intact and the gear is OK, look at the gear on the cam, through the hole in the intake manifold. Turn the motor over, by hand preferably, but remove the spark plugs and mark the position of the timing mark before doing this (every time the crank rotates twice, the rotor's position will be correct). If the cam's drive gear is OK, then suspect the oil pump. The proof would be from putting a #3 slotted screwdriver tip in a drill chuck and turning the oil pump to see if it pumps. Removing the oil filler caps will let you see if oil is running down the head, below the valves. Pump the oil out and look for chunks. If it pumps for a while and stops, it could have pieces of whatever failed clogging the fitting and the plug will need to be removed.

If the oil pump is toast, the motor is rebuildable but the cause of this failure needs to be determined, first. MC may want to see what did it.

"The knocking is probably the valves,"

Valves don't knock, they tap or click. That wasn't tapping.

I'm not optimistic about this motor but the smoke doesn't necessarily mean death. It could be paint, oil, plastic, etc. I had a Chevy in the '70s that would inexplicably run low on oil. I would check it and it was fine. Drive on the freeway and think it was fine and it would knock, run like a stove and after I would add a couple of quarts, it came right back to life. Didn't smoke, drip all over the floor, nothing. Kept running and running. First of all, we all know of people who couldn't change or add to their oil if their lives depended on it and ran their car or truck for weeks, months or years on oil fumes. GM has done a lot of testing on these to see how long they last with no oil, coolant, etc. They don't all die instantly. It's not good to run a motor with no oil pressure but it wasn't run hard, either. That may be a plus.

I see that you're in the Southwest- where, specifically?

softailcowboy
08-01-2007, 06:59 PM
what happened to the auto shutoff? on my past boat when impeller went out the boat shutoff and a red light came on. seems there should have been something??

Leroy
08-01-2007, 08:35 PM
Roonie; SHows post #1 on this one, I think this is his one and only...

Sorry for your trouble tblanks.


I saw another of his posts and he said he checked the oil level and it was fine so I can only hope for the best otherwise his engine is shot.

http://mymastercraft.com/Forum/view_thread.cfm?postid=4888&forum=3&category=2

tblanks
08-02-2007, 09:53 AM
Thanks for all the replies and help, guys!

JimN, yours sounded very useful but I know NOTHING about engines! I'm in the San Antonio area...

What is the worst case scenario if the engine is toast? How much are we talking about here? $5k , $10k , etc...?

I want to go dig a hole and hide in it!

Roonie's
08-02-2007, 10:00 AM
Roonie; SHows post #1 on this one, I think this is his one and only...

Sorry for your trouble tblanks.

Leroy follow link I gave.

JimN
08-02-2007, 10:02 AM
San Antonio- SouthWest? Huh? That's like due South of where I am and I'm in Wisconsin.

Jasper, for one, sells marine remanufactured motors. They'll need specific numbers from your motor casting to be sure the replacement is correct but I would call around. All of the accessories will need to be transferred from the original motor to the new one, but it's more time consuming than difficult. It'll take some time for the replacement motor to arrive and I would imagine everyone's schedule is filled, but call and tell the service department what happened and maybe they can get you in for a couple of hours worth of diagnostics before proceeding. Figure roughly 12-16 hours for labor and whatever the motor costs.

Call your insurance company to see what they cover.

YooperScott
08-02-2007, 11:03 AM
I would make sure the gauges are indeed correct but the knocking noises and smoke probably indicate they are correct. How long did the motor actually run like this? It almost certainly needs to be rebuilt. Cost? Well, if you have someone pull it and bring it to a decent engine shop it might not be "that" bad. I would guess you can have this fixed below $5k. All depends on the labor costs for pulling and putting the engine back in. The rebuild if the heads are in good shape should be under $1k itself.

Running an engine with no oil pressure for any amount of time is really really really bad.

Scott