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SDAhockey21
07-15-2007, 05:15 PM
Any of you saltwater series guys. Can you check you check values on the self bailing cockpit? I think mine were installed backwards.... Meaning water can come in the boat instead of going out like it is supposed to.....

Roonie's
07-15-2007, 05:26 PM
Any of you saltwater series guys. Can you check you check values on the self bailing cockpit? I think mine were installed backwards.... Meaning water can come in the boat instead of going out like it is supposed to.....

I do know the holes lead to the bilge area then the bilge pumps it out.

SDAhockey21
07-15-2007, 06:08 PM
This is different only on the saltwater series boats

Roonie's
07-15-2007, 06:19 PM
This is different only on the saltwater series boats

The sales rep told me this for the saltwater series. I don't have the saltwater series but this is how he said they work as I asked him because I was curious. Hope it helps.

SDAhockey21
07-15-2007, 06:45 PM
the self bailign coppit has two more drains above the main floor drain

SaltwaterMC
07-15-2007, 07:52 PM
SDAhockey, that is one feature in some of the Saltwater Series boats that could have been engineered better. First of all, the fact that the drains are mounted like 2 inches off the floor is one issue we've discovered. In order for water to ever get to those you would have to be pretty much sinking. We have taken some BIG waves over the bow and the water never even gets to those drains. It all goes into the bilge via the floor drain and the front access hatch for the center ballast tank. For that reason, we always make sure to hose down the bilge as well as the engine after every use. Secondly, in the X-Star for example, the deck is below the water line and as you know the principle of gravity prevents water from flowing uphill. So, if water ever did get to those cockpit drains they would be useless unless the water level in the cockpit was really high. What makes you think they are mounted backwards? As I recall, there are arrows pointing in the direction of the waterflow on the check valves. If yours are pointed the wrong way, they should be pretty easy to turn around by loosening the hose clamps and flipping the valve.

SDAhockey21
07-15-2007, 08:04 PM
SDAhockey, that is one feature in some of the Saltwater Series boats that could have been engineered better. First of all, the fact that the drains are mounted like 2 inches off the floor is one issue we've discovered. In order for water to ever get to those you would have to be pretty much sinking. We have taken some BIG waves over the bow and the water never even gets to those drains. It all goes into the bilge via the floor drain and the front access hatch for the center ballast tank. For that reason, we always make sure to hose down the bilge as well as the engine after every use. Secondly, in the X-Star for example, the deck is below the water line and as you know the principle of gravity prevents water from flowing uphill. So, if water ever did get to those cockpit drains they would be useless unless the water level in the cockpit was really high. What makes you think they are mounted backwards? As I recall, there are arrows pointing in the direction of the waterflow on the check valves. If yours are pointed the wrong way, they should be pretty easy to turn around by loosening the hose clamps and flipping the valve.

Yes the arrows are pointed the wrong way and as a result of all the things you stated above, when we have alot of people in the boat the water actually seeps into the boat via the self bailing cockpit.... due to the check valves being mounted backwards....

For the cockpit to be truely "Self Bailing" The drains need to be in the floor and the floor needs to be higher... and the drains in the transome need to be above the water line so water doesn't seep back in the boat like in my situation. But, however i do understand that if the check valves were mounted properly this wouldn't be an issue. But, since they are backwards this allows water to drip on to the carpet making it all wet and soppy.

And yes I thoguht it would be pretty "easy" to flop them around too... But i have found that this is wrong. The tubes are tight! I even busted out the hair dryer to warm them up but no go. So ideas on how to get the tubes off?

SDAhockey21
07-15-2007, 08:11 PM
I'm going o bust out the bigger tools tomorrow and see what i can do...

SaltwaterMC
07-15-2007, 09:29 PM
A simpler solution for MC would be to put the cockpit drains in the floor and have the water that gets into the boat drain into a sealed box that has a bilge pump with a hose coming out of it. The pump would then empty the water out of this box whenever the float switch kicked on. As far as getting those hoses off, I guess bigger tools would be your best bet or take it to your dealer and have them do the work.

SDAhockey21
07-15-2007, 09:37 PM
Great minds think a like I was just trying to design soemthing like this! You need to patent that! lol 8p

SaltwaterMC
07-15-2007, 09:54 PM
That would be nice but it has already been done I know. I have accepted the fact that saltwater is going to get in the bilge so I just hose the crap out of it when we get done using it to make sure no salt reamins in the bilge.

SDAhockey21
07-15-2007, 10:38 PM
SaltwaterMC what is your drill after you are done riding? Any tricks you have learned?

One thing I do is put the cover on the boat and then I spray down the tower really good. That way I get the tower and bimini sprayed down without getting everything else soaked. Another thing I did was get a big clear rectanglar tuberware for the V drive compartments to put wet life jackets and ropes in, that way the saltwater drains to tub and not the bildge.

Got anyhting else like that?

SaltwaterMC
07-15-2007, 11:07 PM
I try and clean everything with soap and water, spray the entire trailer down very thoroughly, and we ususally spend most of the time and tons of towels drying everything, not leaving a single drop of water or water spot. Like you, we cover the boat (after drying the interior, flushing the engine, and turning the batteries off) and then spray the tower and bimini down. We then proceed to dry the outside of the boat.

We always take our boards, jackets, and ropes out of the boat after hosing them down just to let them dry out and prevent any mildew because we have noticed that when the cover is on and the hatches shut, the storage compartments do not dry out. We actually made a suggestion to our dealer who passed it on to MC to line the storage compartments in the saltwater series with rubber instead of carpet as we salt users have to spray everything down thoroughly after every use. Like I said, the carpet just holds that moisture whereas the rubber would not. Our dealer thought this would be changed in 2008.

Another thing we do is open the engine and transmission compartments and spray them off really well as wet bodies cause these to get salty and eventually rust.

One thing I would definitely give extra care to is your trailer wheels. The salt will take its toll if you do not go above and beyond to prevent it. If you have access to freshwater at your ramp like we do, bring a hose and spray your wheels after putting the boat in the water. Even letting the wheels stay salty while you are out on the boat will eventually eat away at them. Also, spraying PAM on them is supposed to help.

SDAhockey21
07-16-2007, 12:11 AM
I was thinking that they should make fiber glass inserts that you could put into the v drive compartments. We are very carefull not to drip salt on the sunpad. We try...try.. to dry off on the platform...try lol

Thanks for the tips Josh

We aren't to to worried because we will be riding salt 50% of the time.

SDAhockey21
07-16-2007, 12:15 AM
Another Question,

How is your boat holding up? Where are you starting to see the salt use?

SaltwaterMC
07-16-2007, 12:43 AM
I try to make everyone dry off on the platform as well, but the reality for us is that saltwater will still finds it way in there one way or another. Our boat is actually holding up really well. We never have the carpet it in so I don't know what if any the effects of the salt would be on it. It is the trailer we were having issues with, if you'd like, I will PM you with the problems we were running in to. Where are you in FL? I know you are somewhere in the panhandle. I'm down in Tampa and if you ever get down here with or without your boat it would be great to meet up.

johkur
03-30-2008, 11:01 AM
My dealer just received a Saltwater Series X45 that I expected would have the rubber coating in the compartments instead of carpet. It was one of the selling points of the saltwater series upgrade. I had been told that the SS included a new coating instead of carpets. But the boat the dealer received has carpeting. The SS upgrade wasn't cheap, so surprised that some of the upgraded features weren't included.

Also, the 2 transom holes for the saltwater series that are white plastic with holes and in between the two stainless exhausts as pictured in the 'electric trim tabs' picture in the saltwater catalog and probably what you have in your boat are missing from my 2008 boat. Even a picture from the factory on 11/30/07 had those, but they aren't in the boat from the January-Feb production run. Instead, there are just the 2 holes in the transom with rubber flaps and stainless rings that get blocked by the swim platform. What are those?

I'm wondering if the drains will still work if the swim platform is up against them, or how far away from the boat the swim platform is supposed to be. The top of the stainless rings peeks out above the platform, but most of the opening would be blocked by the platform if the platform is flush with the boat. And those other two holes, between the exhausts, are missing, but I think that might be a good thing.

I'm also wondering if that piece of rubber fails, what happens. I certainly wouldn't want the flotation of my boat to depend on that piece of rubber, especially since I don't think it would ever have water coming out of those holes, and I still anticipate the boat being that deep in the water when I'm loaded up.

Also, the 2008 Saltwater Series catalog, which I based my purchase on, shows nickel platform brackets, and they look like they'd fold, and it says in the 2008 SS catalog that new for 2008, is the folding platform. The boat they shipped my dealer (I can't refer to it as my boat, because its certainly not what I ordered, and no explanations have been given) does not have nickel brackets, and they don't fold. Did anyone get the brackets MC advertises for SS platforms, or has seen the folding or nickel brackets? Or will the painted brackets really do better for Saltwater? The boat came with brackets with part# 530382 raised into the mold. Can't find that part# described anywhere yet.