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View Full Version : Dead Engine on Prostar 190 LT1


don937
07-15-2007, 04:57 PM
I'm having trouble diagnosing a problem with my PS 190. About 3 to 5 minutes after I initally started the engine it died. The engine started fine like it always does, but it just died while in neutral, while warming up. I tried starting it again, but all I got was a rapid clicking like a weak battery or something. I then opened the engine cover and could smell a burnt wire coming from somewhere. I tried to start it again and could hear a shorting sound at the rear of the engine. I have traced every wire, looked at the wiring harnesses closely and checked the negative and positive leads. Everything looks good. The battery is a new Platnum Die Hard that was just purchased a month ago. The battery checked out fine. The alternator is brand new and the starter has been rebuilt. I went ahead and replaced the ignition switch with a new one so that is not the problem. When I try to start the boat, I can hear a click at the silinoid at the rear of the engine. Then the circuit breaker pops on the ignition switch on the dash and all functions on the dash are dead. The owners manual says there is a 35 amp breaker on the back if the engine. I have found a red button with "50" on it. Nothing happens when I push it in. I checked the safty switch and it seems to be good and the boat is in nuetral. I'm getting power to the back of the motor but that's it. I have not changed the silinoid yet. Are there any relays or anything I'm overlooking? What would cause the engine to suddenly die like that? Any suggestions?? Thanks.

JimN
07-15-2007, 06:26 PM
The best thing to do is follow the path from the battery positive post, to the starter and on from there. The wire loom may be covering the separate wires but their colors and gauge won't change from one point to another. There's a plug on the harness that separates the motor harness from the boat harness. Unplug that and become familiar with how a digital multi-meter is used, if you don't know now.

snivesatgt
07-16-2007, 07:07 AM
I had a similiar issue w/ my starter solenoid a little while ago. It would actually ground the main current wire to the starter, causing it to heat up and the starter not to get very much juice. Oddly, the starter would still turn a little making a clicking noise - much like as if it was bad starter/battery.

The 10-20 dollar part is a good place to start. The wiring to the starter (on mine) is such that it has a main cable going from the battery to the solenoid. Another cable going from that to the starter. the ignition enables that connection turning it over... ( of course I'm simplifing it somewhat... )

Good Luck,
Ben

JimN
07-16-2007, 09:18 AM
To add an important bit- if the battery was replaced because it died completely several times while cranking, low battery voltage and capacity kills starters and solenoids. Once the starter begins to crank slowly, cranking should stop. Never keep cranking until the starter will not move and it just clicks.

don937
07-17-2007, 09:29 PM
If the starter relay is bad, would that cause the circuit breaker on the ignition switch to pop when the ignition is turned? I was just out on the boat and noticed that when I turn the key to the "on" position, the breaker on the ignition pops after about 4 seconds. If I reset it and try to turn the motor over I can hear the starter relay click and then the circuit breaker on the ignition pops.

JimN
07-17-2007, 09:42 PM
Go back to the area around the breaker and do a visual inspection, then do a wiggle test on all of the wires. You may see that one or more is loose. Also, look at and wiggle all of the ground wires at the rear of the motor. Your visual check may reveal some melted wires and loose terminals. Repair them properly with the right sized terminals and don't just crimp them, solder them, too. If you are just turning the key to ON, the solenoid shouldn't affect it. Look on the purple wires for shorts. The red wire from teh breaker feeds teh ignition switch, which then feeds the ignition circuit (purple wires) and everything that's hot when teh switch is in the crank position. Crank isn't a problem if the breaker pops when the key is just ON. That's a problem with the purple wires or the ignition switch.

If the motor has overheated badly recently, look at the whole wire loom as it comes into contact with the motor. The plastic loom can and does melt, which puts the wires in direct contact with the hot motor. I have seen several motors that overheated and had similar problems with melted wires.

don937
07-17-2007, 11:43 PM
Just checked every wire at the rear of the motor. I unplugged the harness, unbolted the plastic cover and checked all wires and their connections. Everything looks to be fine. One thing I noticed is that when I push in on the red 50 reset button, there is not much play in it. There is not "click" like the reset on the dash ignition reset.

If the neutral safty switch was bad, it is my understanding that power would not reach the rear of the engine to activate whatever I'm hearing click under the plastic cover. But if the neutral safty switch went bad while the boat was at idle and killed the engine that would make sense. Something caused the engine to die. Would a bad starter relay or the 50 amp circuit breaker kill the engine after it has been running?

milkmania
07-17-2007, 11:59 PM
One thing I noticed is that when I push in on the red 50 reset button, there is not much play in it. There is not "click" like the reset on the dash ignition reset.

If the neutral safty switch was bad, it is my understanding that power would not reach the rear of the engine to activate whatever I'm hearing click under the plastic cover. But if the neutral safty switch went bad while the boat was at idle and killed the engine that would make sense. Something caused the engine to die. Would a bad starter relay or the 50 amp circuit breaker kill the engine after it has been running?
there is no play in my red relay button either, but when it's popped, you'll know it.


when my 191 PS 190 clicks like you're speaking of, my battery is low.
I found this out after removing the starter and taking it to autozone and having them test it.... it tested fine.

got a new battery.

reinstalled the starter, installed new battery and my clicking problems were over.

also, I was able to "test" the solonoid by jumping across with a screwdriver, but it get's hot enough to melt the tip off of a phillips screwdriver:o


just re-read your initial post.....
this wire frying sound, were you able to check inside the plastic wiring loom?

JimN
07-18-2007, 12:01 AM
Neutral safety switch only works when you crank the motor. It interrupts the lead that feeds the solenoid but has absolutely nothing to do with the ignition circuit. The 50 amp breaker (not a relay) would kill the motor.

Commandohorn
07-20-2007, 01:35 PM
Here's a wiring diagram, this may help.