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View Full Version : 2000 205V Custom Ballast Install Pics


etakk7
06-05-2007, 01:43 PM
I posted them to my Wakesiderides profile:

http://www.wakesiderides.com/rides/index.php?page=out&id=2282

lassy
06-05-2007, 02:32 PM
looks good.

i hope you have a way to easily remove those pumps...or the complete manifold.....impellors go out and need replacing

etakk7
06-05-2007, 03:13 PM
yes, with the way I constructed the manifold, the pumps screw in and are not glued at all. I haven't ever had issues with impellors on aerator pumps though.

beatle78
06-05-2007, 04:23 PM
NICE!.

I like that the system fills in under 5 minutes and you only put a single 2" hole in the bottom. I'm always nervous with putting too many holes in the bottom of my boat. :o

I'd be willing to bet that the systems that take too long to fill don't have adequate pumps and/or vents in the bag. Vents make a HUGE difference in filling a bag with water!

Could you post pics of the wake empty and then filled? I'd love to see the difference. Get a pic of you hitting some serious air!! :)

I'm hoping to get the ballast system figured out and installed for next year. Budget is empty for this year.

beatle78
08-07-2007, 02:16 PM
Hi etakk7,

How's the ballast system treating ya?

I'm in the process of getting all my fat sacs ready for my winter project.

Anything you would have done differently?

Also, what your fill time from empty and your drain time from full?

THANKS!
beatle78

beatle78
08-08-2007, 07:59 AM
bump.....

Already on Page 2, wanted to make sure you see it :)

etakk7
08-13-2007, 02:32 PM
Sorry Beatle, I was on vacation last week at the cabin. I did remember I owed you some information so on Thursday night I did some tests. Standing still, with all pumps on at once, fill time was exactly 5 minutes (roughly 2000 lbs). Empty time was exactly 6 minutes.

What would I have done differently? I need to have check valves on the supply lines for the rear bags. When I fill unevenly for surfing, they even themselves out over time through backflow. As I close a ball valve on the thru-hull, the water stays within the bags and lines but evens out over time. I will probably move the check valves off the drain lines (leave them on the vent lines though) as the water could never climb that high on its own (referred to as "looping" the line by others). Check valves on my drain lines have proven to be unnecessary.

Other less-problematic potential changes:
1. I may work the fill lines for the center bag into the main manifold instead of using a dedicated pump on the center drain plug. I have to sit with the boat on a hill for awhile to make sure to drain it out the back, as the water loves to stagnate in the center bilge area. This is a problem because my damn bilge pump won't prime unless there is a large amount of water in there.

2. My old ballast bags (center and rear specifically) are less than ideal. The blue waterbed fittings can slip off, tend to leak a little, and I had to cut holes for thru-hulls in the bottom of the bags. There have been some trials and tribulations with the thru-hulls popping out (due to me using a "cheap" silicone sealant and not 3M 5200 immediately) which led to some bilge water. I will buy bags that have built in holes at the bottom of the bag that I can actually thread the pumps into, so they are watertight and always prime perfectly.

3. Under the rear hatch, I can barely hear the pumps, which led to me leaving one on the other night and draining down my battery. I don't plan to do any mods here, just make sure to check the switches before heading in for the night. (no excuses, my switches have backlights too!)

etakk7
08-13-2007, 02:37 PM
weighted and unweighted pics, plus one of my IPOD mount if anybody cares.

The wake pics have poor lighting and are pretty undefined, I will need to take some others on a better day.

beatle78
08-13-2007, 03:30 PM
Thanks for getting back to me! I love the fille/drain times!! Nice Job.

When I get to doing the work over the off season, I may bug you a bit with some tips :)

swatguy
08-13-2007, 07:06 PM
Etak,

Nice job.
If ou wanted to rid the water bed fittings you can put barbs on the end instead. Not sure if yu thought about that, but that is what I had til i decided to bite he bullet on some new fly high sacs. The nice thig about the new fly high's is that because they ar rectangular they don't bow the dividers so much. Gonna ad the integrated bow sac this fall. You think it fills up that much with about 400? I have 2 side sacs under there that i just keep filled. They fill up pretty close to fill. I estimate mine at 400, but I want to fill by switch. so am going the integated bow sac upgrade.

Again nice job.

etakk7
08-14-2007, 10:36 AM
I've heard many people say they can only get 200 lbs in the bow sac, I personally believe it gets at least 75% full in my bow. Not sure if the difference is the old integrated bow sac vs. the newer one.