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View Full Version : Wheel flies off trailer at 55 MPH ..?


feydakin
05-30-2007, 12:50 PM
Well - I definitely had an interesting experience this weekend. After trailering ~1hr home from Norris lake this weekend on the interstate, I noticed smoke coming from my left trailer tire.

I instantly started decelerating and trying to get into the right lane. There was a loud pop and the tire (including hub) actually came off the axle while on the interstate. The boat was riding on one tire and the disc brake on the other side - sparks were going everywhere. By the grace of god, the boat didn't turn over and kill me + about 20 others in a pileup.

This boat is a 2003 X2 with single axle Mastercraft trailer. I have oil bath bearings, the whole nine. I haven't done alot of maintenance on this trailer (as compared to boat), but the bath bearings had oil, and I hit it with the grease gun a couple times last year. Tire tread and pressure were fine as I checked before leaving. I am the second owner and the first kept it docked (which I do as well) so I've trailered it maybe 500 miles in two seasons.

Right now it's at the dealer waiting on whether Mastercraft will take care of the repairs. I sincerely hope they do as this has never happened to me with far less expensive boats before. The worst part is that the dealer says they have no answer for why it happens (and they've seen it before ...).

I have serious doubts about the quality of Mastercraft trailers now and am beginning to wonder whether I want to keep trying to trailer a ticking time bomb.

I've seen tons of posts on here and other sites about brakes locking up, faulty surge break systems, etc. Do other high end trailers even still use surge break systems or are they electrically actuated? Any thoughts or similar experiences? I will add pictures to this post soon.

jkski
05-30-2007, 01:00 PM
Sorry to hear about this, but glad to hear that all is OK..allthings considered.
As far as this happening before, if you do a search on this site, you will come across several others that have had the exact same thing occur, including a good friend of mine that had a 2003 X2. Long story short...MC makes a great trailer, it just so happened to be a problem with the some of the axles in that year. My friend ended up getting a new axle, wheels, brakes, etc. and between MC and the axle mfg. it was taken care of.
Hope all works out for you.

KnoxX2
05-30-2007, 01:11 PM
Feydakin - Glad to here everyone is ok and you did not damage your Boat.

On a side note what part of Norris dod you go too? We have a Floating house up there.

feydakin
05-30-2007, 01:17 PM
Thanks guys for the thoughts. We put it by Hickory Star and went all over (to the tune of about $85 in gas). Definitely got some big air but a bit crowded.

Here are pics of the carnage.

All things considered, it is good to be alive (and the boat came out relatively unscathed).

JK - Any reason they gave - other than faulty axle? Wondering why they haven't had a massive recall before now on all affected trailers. The dealer told me it happened to him with a 2007 trailer so something is still going on.

h20_skidog
05-30-2007, 01:32 PM
Sorry that it happend to you and I hope that it all works out...but I have to tell you that I do like the the 'baby suspended' photo with the trailer your 'baby' is going onto having the text 'The Careful Company'

jsc0324
05-30-2007, 02:28 PM
Sorry to hear of the problem. I am planning to trailer my boat A LOT this summer, probably 4,000 miles. I bought the boat used with only 80 hours for a 2000 model year. I am thinking I should have all the axles/bearings checked and repacked. Any damage to the boat, or does it seem limited to the trailer?

Workin' 4 Toys
05-30-2007, 02:37 PM
I am sorry to hear of your misfortune.

Ric
05-30-2007, 02:45 PM
Sorry to see that mess! Glad nobody was hurt! I've heard of wheels coming off trailers, but it's not yet happened to me :rolleyes:


no kidding, what if I invented some telemetry sys that would feed back air pressure and hub temperature and brake engagement to the driver? Probably make a mint!

Sodar
05-30-2007, 02:48 PM
Sorry to see that mess! Glad nobody was hurt! I've heard of wheels coming off trailers, but it's not yet happened to me :rolleyes:


no kidding, what if I invented some telemetry sys that would feed back air pressure and hub temperature and brake engagement to the driver? Probably make a mint!

I have heard of wireless air pressure meters for trailers...

Ric
05-30-2007, 02:50 PM
I have heard of wireless air pressure meters for trailers... that's a start .

bucky
05-30-2007, 02:52 PM
In the pictures, it looks like the hub is still attatched, and you just lost the oil bath (and wheel). Did the axle fail, or did the lug bolts shear? Sorry to hear about the damage either way.

trickskier
05-30-2007, 03:22 PM
In the pictures, it looks like the hub is still attatched, and you just lost the oil bath (and wheel). Did the axle fail, or did the lug bolts shear? Sorry to hear about the damage either way.
Just what I was thinking.............Why is the hub still attached and the studs sheared off??? :confused:

jkski
05-30-2007, 03:32 PM
My friends trailer had the exact same problem, where the lugs sheared off. At first they thought that the lugs must have been loose, and that the wheel coming off was the result of that, however it was tight. To make matters worse, when the dealer, who came to his rescue on the side of the road about 35 minutes from their shop, put a new hub on, checked the other side, then proceeded back to their shop with the trailer and YEP... you guessed it, the other side popped off.
So, in the end, I am not really sure what the reason was, and I would not want to speculate, except to say that if the problem warranted a complete recall, I am sure that MC would have done it.

jkski
05-30-2007, 03:36 PM
Try following this link:

http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=2652&highlight=wheels+fell

or just do a search on "Wheels fell off" and look for the topic posted by mhunter.

Tim205
05-30-2007, 03:48 PM
Holy sh$t - I'm about to tow from FL to NH, and am a freeking nervous wreck! I have towed many times LD with RamLin (Nautique) and Extreme ('bu) trailers - Never had an issue. They had a more traditional "bearing buddy" setup. The RamLin/Nautique trailers seem especially industrial strength.

Ric
05-30-2007, 03:56 PM
there has to be some issue with lug materials... I wonder if these are an inferior stud or possibly not rolled threads? (I am no doctor)

trickskier
05-30-2007, 03:59 PM
Holy sh$t - I'm about to tow from FL to NH, and am a freeking nervous wreck! I have towed many times LD with RamLin (Nautique) and Extreme ('bu) trailers - Never had an issue. They had a more traditional "bearing buddy" setup. The RamLin/Nautique trailers seem especially industrial strength.
You should be fine.......Just do a good pretrip inspection........If you can jack one side of the trailer off the ground at a time, then take your hands and put one each side of the tire and wiggle to check if there is any play......Then spin the tire to make sure it spins free and there is nothing binding........Also make sure your tire pressures are correct and re-torque your lug nuts...... I would recommend stopping at least every 2 hours and do a walk around.......Have a safe trip!

bigmac
05-30-2007, 04:02 PM
Looks to me like the lug nuts are gone. Sheared lug nuts are usually a result of improperly torquing them, or not torquing them at all. It's easy to overlook on a trailer that's not used much, but lug nuts do loosen themselves, and loose lug nuts are definitely prone to fail (more so than over-tight nuts). Been there, done that, and my trailer hub looked just like those pictures, except for the boat being a different brand. Re-torquing them is cumbersome to do, especially since torque wrenches that will go 90 ft-lbs or more tend to be expensive. If they get even a little loose, one nut goes, then the others follow in short order.

There have been a number of lug nut failures reported here on Team Talk, but IMHO no more than I see on other boards. I hope MasterCraft helps out here, but I doubt that lug nut failure is a mfgr defect.

TMCNo1
05-30-2007, 04:53 PM
I have read that there is a situation created by the use of aluminum wheels rather than steel on trailers. The aluminum is so much more sensitive to heat or cold than steel and due to the expansion and contraction factor of the heat/cold, lug nuts can become over tight with heat buildup and will be under tight when they then get cold. You just have to keep a constant check, think about it!

Workin' 4 Toys
05-30-2007, 04:59 PM
there has to be some issue with lug materials...
Agreed, Or the use of aluminum wheels.???

Thought...Heat transfered from the brakes into the wheel, next thing you know you arrive at destination zero, and splash right into the "cold" water instantly chilling that "hot" wheel.......There has to be more to it...

Workin' 4 Toys
05-30-2007, 05:01 PM
I have read that there is a situation created by the use of aluminum wheels rather than steel on trailers. The aluminum is so much more sensitive to heat or cold than steel and due to the expansion and contraction factor of the heat/cold, lug nuts can become over tight with heat buildup and will be under tight when they then get cold. You just have to keep a constant check, think about it!
We were typing at the same time, but along the same line....


FWIW- I can't say I've seen this problem first hand with a steel wheel.

Prostar19
05-30-2007, 05:07 PM
I have towed countless miles with no issues. However I torque the lug nuts before every tow just to be safe. If this was a major problem I think we would see many more people on here with the same problem. I am not saying the problem with his trailer is his fault. it may have had a manufacturing defect. I am meerly saying it is not a common issue.

P-hat_in_Cincy
05-30-2007, 05:15 PM
Looks to me like the lug nuts are gone. Sheared lug nuts are usually a result of improperly torquing them, or not torquing them at all.
You can tell it's getting close to boating season when you see my breaker bar and torque wrench go into the back of the tow rig. I don't mess around when it comes to these single axle trailers. I make sure I'm torqued to spec. And don't forget about the proper torque pattern.

One other thing...I posted this last August but will post it again.
Regarding trailer tire pressures. (http://www.goodyear.com/rv/pdf/marathon_gen_info_032806.pdf)

TMCNo1
05-30-2007, 05:37 PM
We were typing at the same time, but along the same line....


FWIW- I can't say I've seen this problem first hand with a steel wheel.


It started probably over 20 years ago, when aftermarket aluminum wheels started being put on trailers to dress them up, then the boating/trailer industry went to aluminum wheels as standard or as a option and the numbers of trailers sold now far outweigh the occasional problem for it to be addressed as a recall or a warning bulletin, from what I understand.

feydakin
05-30-2007, 06:05 PM
thankfully - not too much damage to the boat. there is a gelcoat scratch where the fender well hit it but it doesn't look too bad.

Ric - I like the way you're thinking ... I've got just the right motivation now to make a system like that (and it's not money).

KnoxX2
05-30-2007, 06:20 PM
You can tell it's getting close to boating season when you see my breaker bar and torque wrench go into the back of the tow rig. I don't mess around when it comes to these single axle trailers. I make sure I'm torqued to spec. And don't forget about the proper torque pattern.

One other thing...I posted this last August but will post it again.
Regarding trailer tire pressures. (http://www.goodyear.com/rv/pdf/marathon_gen_info_032806.pdf)


OK at the Risk of sounding dumb: Should you check your tire Pressure loaded or unloaded?:o

feydakin
05-30-2007, 06:21 PM
are those lug nuts screwed in on MC trailers? Why not weld or press them in if that's the case.

After reading all the posts about the brakes locking up inadvertently and peoples tires being hot when they put in at the ramp (and then instant cool as stated above) I wonder if that could contribute.

I still wonder what caused the smoke to pour out before the wheel went AWOL. That's got to have something to do with the failure.

Ric
05-30-2007, 06:24 PM
Agreed, Or the use of aluminum wheels.???

Thought...Heat transfered from the brakes into the wheel, next thing you know you arrive at destination zero, and splash right into the "cold" water instantly chilling that "hot" wheel.......There has to be more to it... Plenty of commercially available materials would hold up to that heat, but the instant cooling is an engineer's job.. the addition of the dissimilar, yet conductive wheel material may play into the "loosening"

Ric
05-30-2007, 06:29 PM
are those lug nuts screwed in on MC trailers? Why not weld or press them in if that's the case.

After reading all the posts about the brakes locking up inadvertently and peoples tires being hot when they put in at the ramp (and then instant cool as stated above) I wonder if that could contribute.

I still wonder what caused the smoke to pour out before the wheel went AWOL. That's got to have something to do with the failure. So did the bearings lock up or the brakes lock up? the smoke says something for sure

if the oil bath hub came off prior to the tire falling off, maybe the bearings got hot?

Upper Michigan Prostar190
05-30-2007, 06:33 PM
Plenty of commercially available materials would hold up to that heat, but the instant cooling is an engineer's job.. the addition of the dissimilar, yet conductive wheel material may play into the "loosening"
Did someone order an Engineer?:confused:

DemolitionMan
05-30-2007, 06:41 PM
Just remember always care a grease gun on long trips.

etakk7
05-30-2007, 06:42 PM
luckily I have a double axle. However, on one of my wheels, one of the lugs has broken off (before I owned it). Maybe it is a bigger deal than I think? I've towed at least 1500 miles on it that way.

bigmac
05-30-2007, 06:45 PM
It's hard to find a car or truck these days that doesn't have aluminum wheels, yet I believe that snapping lug nuts on the wheels of our vehicles is pretty darn rare, despite their much higher mileage. I don't buy the aluminum wheel theory no offense meant. The wheel that fell off my old boat trailer was steel.

Workin' 4 Toys
05-30-2007, 09:46 PM
Plenty of commercially available materials would hold up to that heat, but the instant cooling is an engineer's job.. the addition of the dissimilar, yet conductive wheel material may play into the "loosening"
Perhaps there is a need forged instead of cast aluminum? IMO it is somehow related to the dunkin' of a hot aluminum wheel that happens to be attached to a dissimilar metal this being steel, and the expansion and contraction at different rates. Something loosens.

Leroy
05-30-2007, 10:39 PM
It does seem odd that we do not see it on cars more also. I also think trailer hubs get hotter than car hubs.

I think it is the hot/cold shock. THe aluminum wheels being soft will get compressed a little each thermal cycle until the nuts get loose. I bet if you checked you would need to tighten the bolts on aluminum wheels at least once a year depending on use.

It's hard to find a car or truck these days that doesn't have aluminum wheels, yet I believe that snapping lug nuts on the wheels of our vehicles is pretty darn rare, despite their much higher mileage. I don't buy the aluminum wheel theory no offense meant. The wheel that fell off my old boat trailer was steel.

feydakin
05-30-2007, 10:45 PM
anyone know about other inboard brand trailers with this problem? I know someone with a nautique and he said he's never heard of this. what brand trailers do nautique and malibu use? apparently they buy their trailers (not mfg).

Do other trailer mfgs use surge breaks like ours or are they actuated by wire?

dmayer84
05-30-2007, 10:55 PM
Our trailer for our old Sea Ray was a Load Rite and had surge brakes.

Leroy
05-30-2007, 11:59 PM
Aluminum coefficient of expansion is 12 (in/in.oF x 10-6) so 1/2 inch of aluminum over 200 degrees F times 12 would give ~.0012 inch expansion for each cycle. Not large, but fixed at the back so it will press against the nut.

For 20 turn per inch bolt is 0.050/turn so a single thermal cycle would mean 1/50th of a turn to tighten again or ~6 degrees on a wrench.

WHere are the ME's to tell me I'm full of it! I didn't take into account that steel also expands so the effect is almost double.


UMP, where are you at?

88 PS190
05-31-2007, 12:04 AM
closest thing I saw happened when I worked at a marina, to fit a boat in the show room they jacked it up and pulled the wheels and slid it to the wall.

When it came time to move it out, the jacked it up slid it away from the wall and threw the wheels on.

An employee (young one and not me) spun the nuts on but found he couldn't get enough room to torque the front of the two wheels where it was, and so figured he'd torque them outside the shop.

Anyway on to another task the guy goes to deal with a returned rental, while gone another employee figures he'll transfer the boat to the other location (same owner two marinas) takes off.

Boss gets a call 20 minutes later from the police, they have a lady with a trailer tire lodged in her grill, wondering if it was anything they knew about, boss says no (he really didn't know) The guy with the trailer arrives at the other location about 40 minutes later, backs the boat in and walks inside, not once noticing the missing wheel in a 25 mile trailer trip.

Well the boss eventually discovered it, and had to own up that indeed they had lost a trailer tire into the lady's car. But then again MI is a no fault state for insurance... the wheel was "unharmed" so who knows who currently owns that wheel.

This is the same marina that launched a Baja after summerizing it with all the cooling hoses off, pulled it over to a dock and left it to idle, finding it swamped an hour later as the engine pumped water in till they died.

As far as torquing aluminums, its the reason NTB and Discount tire always say to retorque your wheels after a week.

feydakin
05-31-2007, 10:14 AM
bump .

Tim205
06-01-2007, 10:54 PM
You should be fine.......Just do a good pretrip inspection........If you can jack one side of the trailer off the ground at a time, then take your hands and put one each side of the tire and wiggle to check if there is any play......Then spin the tire to make sure it spins free and there is nothing binding........Also make sure your tire pressures are correct and re-torque your lug nuts...... I would recommend stopping at least every 2 hours and do a walk around.......Have a safe trip!

Thanks Gator - Great advice.....Tim

Tim205
06-01-2007, 10:56 PM
You can tell it's getting close to boating season when you see my breaker bar and torque wrench go into the back of the tow rig. I don't mess around when it comes to these single axle trailers. I make sure I'm torqued to spec. And don't forget about the proper torque pattern.

One other thing...I posted this last August but will post it again.
Regarding trailer tire pressures. (http://www.goodyear.com/rv/pdf/marathon_gen_info_032806.pdf)

P-hat - Can you share the proper tourque and pattern?

Farmer Ted
06-02-2007, 12:40 AM
hydrogen enbrittlement?

what do you clean your wheels with?

bigmac
06-02-2007, 08:35 AM
P-hat - Can you share the proper tourque and pattern?

It's going to vary by axle manufacturer - somewhere between 90 - 120 ft-lbs. On current MasterCraft trailers, first torquing pass: Bring up to 45-ft-lbs. On second pass: Bring up to 70-ft-lbs. On third pass: Bring up to 90-ft-lbs. When you're checking them later, just bring each up to 90 ft-lbs using the same tightening pattern.

http://mccollister.info/lugnuts.jpg

bigmac
06-02-2007, 08:47 AM
Trailer manufacturers are apparently very concerned about what they see as an increase in the number of wheel separations. It's been the subject of a variety of white papers and organization conferences, and the NTHSB is involved as well. Looking at the info they've generated, it appears to me that the causes they are focusing on are related to poor material selection, poor axle design, poor manufacturing technique. I couldn't find anything in those industry papers that suggests a problem with aluminum wheels. The fact that it happens in steel and aluminum wheels with about the same frequency suggests to the Trailer Safety Industry Coalition (http://www.sandspreader.com/tiremountinginfo.pdf) in a couple of reports and national conference titles that the problem more often relates to cheap lug nut material, grease or paint on the lugs during manufacturing, or crappy axle design. There are a number of links, www.natm.com, www.rvia.org, www.nmma.org, or www.ntea.com.

WTRSK1R
06-02-2007, 10:19 AM
FWIW. I have seen this same thing on a camper with Steel wheels. The lugs loosened, and the tire came part way off slaming into the floor of the camper before shearing the remaining lug nuts. When my brother in law went into the RV shop to buy a replacement brake drum that still had all the lugs, the guy at the RV shop said it "happens all the time". He said it was from not checking the torque on the lugs often enough. Now, this was a small camper that had the little tires that are turning at a much higher rate then the tow vehicle, but it is still the same issue.

Steel Wheel
No lake immersion driving temp changes
Drum brakes not Disc
Tire flew off
Sheared remaining lug nuts
Trailer sitting on side of highway

To make matters worse, as I said, it slammed into the floor of the camper, so it also destroyed the cabinet that was above the floor, a section of floor, and repair required replacing the linoleum after repairing the flooring. Overall, the only good thing was that no one was hurt.

The whole experience gave me religion on torquing trailer tires. I only check my car lugs after rotating the tires. I check my boat before every significant trip (better then an hour tow), plus a couple of times just for kicks during the season.

Steve

kyfooter
06-02-2007, 10:48 AM
Must be something with Norris Lake! I was heading there two years ago, and once I got into the hills my left brake locked up as well and blew out the oil bath bearing. Luckily I was near the ramp so I hurried up and got the boat in the water, but there was no moving the trailer after putting it in the water. The rest of my week was spent calling MasterCraft and Dealers. MC wouldn't cover it if I didn't get it to a dealer...2 hours away. I couldn't get them to understand there was no seal left, and unless I wanted (presumably) your situation, I could not move the trailer.

I eventually convinced them to let me bring the caliper and rotor to the dealer and they agreed to cover it under warranty. What bothers me still is that there is a known issue with the 2003 brake systems, and to my knowledge there has been no recall. I'm a freak with boat and trailer maintenance, and this issue is not from lack of trailer care.

Luckily, I had the knowledge and tools with me to replace the entire brake system...but it was not much of a vacation. Guess I'm lucky my brakes locked up the last 1,000 yards of my trip, not going 55.

Workin' 4 Toys
06-02-2007, 05:58 PM
Trailer manufacturers are apparently very concerned about what they see as an increase in the number of wheel separations. It's been the subject of a variety of white papers and organization conferences, and the NTHSB is involved as well. Looking at the info they've generated, it appears to me that the causes they are focusing on are related to poor material selection, poor axle design, poor manufacturing technique. I couldn't find anything in those industry papers that suggests a problem with aluminum wheels. The fact that it happens in steel and aluminum wheels with about the same frequency suggests to the Trailer Safety Industry Coalition (http://www.sandspreader.com/tiremountinginfo.pdf) in a couple of reports and national conference titles that the problem more often relates to cheap lug nut material, grease or paint on the lugs during manufacturing, or crappy axle design. There are a number of links, www.natm.com (http://www.natm.com), www.rvia.org (http://www.rvia.org), www.nmma.org (http://www.nmma.org), or www.ntea.com. (http://www.ntea.com.)

Maybe it also has something to do with the conical shape of the lugnut vs. the concave shape in the wheel?

Just the other day, there was a car on the side of the road with one of its wheel about 1/2 mile further down the road....:confused:

wsrobert
06-02-2007, 08:50 PM
I recently replaced two bearings on my trailer, but I went back with the grease bearings. I considered purchasing the oil bath, but several folks told me horror stories of troubles they had and other people had. Sounds like there's a design issue with oil bath brgs. I don't think it is a MasterCraft design that's the problem, but they certainly need to recognize what's going on with all these oil bath brgs they're putting on.

bigmac
06-02-2007, 09:02 PM
I recently replaced two bearings on my trailer, but I went back with the grease bearings. I considered purchasing the oil bath, but several folks told me horror stories of troubles they had and other people had. Sounds like there's a design issue with oil bath brgs. I don't think it is a MasterCraft design that's the problem, but they certainly need to recognize what's going on with all these oil bath brgs they're putting on.


Sorry...this is the "trailer-wheel-falling-off" thread. The "oil-bath-hub-cracking" threads are here (http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=16749), here (http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=16612), here (http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=16608)and here (http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=16450). We also have "brakes-locking-up" threads, as well as "boat-buddy" threads. And then there's the "defective-bunk-design" thread, AKA "Rachael incognito".

MasterCraft makes pretty trailers, but when it comes to the engineering...well...let's just say that we have to keep these problems in their proper threads or there will be chaos.

feydakin
06-03-2007, 11:21 PM
Update - MC is apparently willing to cover the parts (axle, etc) for replacement but not labor to reassemble? I'm a little puzzled by that but still trying to discuss with dealer/MC. I'm totally convinced this was not caused by my failure to torque the lugs. I did it at the beginning of the season (without a measuring torque wrench albeit) and only trailered about 6 miles total until this happened. I have a hard time believing they loosened that quickly.

Also - what kind of regular maintenance can you do to an oil bath hub trailer besides change the bath oil? Besides the winch ratchet, etc there are no grease fittings anywhere are there? Other than checking brake pad thickness and rotor I'm not even sure of what maintenance I could be doing on brakes. Can you change these oil bath hubs to a grease type (bearing buddy) very easily?

CalmCraft
06-13-2007, 02:13 PM
:( Feydakin, 1) Mastercraft, and ALL boat trailer manufacturers use surge brakes. Electric brakes can not be submerged for obvious reasons.
2)Mastercraft builds a good trailer but they do NOT build the braking systems. Brake systems are purchased from the lowest bidder.
3) All systems are prone to heating up when the surge does not completely release upon forward motion. The sight glass is plastic which expands/contracts upon heating/cooling-it is a weak link.
4) I had the same thing happen on an '03 230 tandem trailer.
5) This is a common problem which will ultimately happen to almost EVERY mastercraft trailer as well as any other manufacturers trailer.
6) Solution-Convert to a Buddy Bearing system and/or annually disassemble the braking system, completey clean/oil/grease all moving parts and pray for a successful trailering season!

Hrkdrivr
06-13-2007, 06:45 PM
I haven't done alot of maintenance on this trailer (as compared to boat), but the bath bearings had oil, and I hit it with the grease gun a couple times last year.

OK...now you got me thinking...I thought w/the oil-bath bearings, there was no need to grease them, as in no way to grease the bearings??? :confused: Have I been driving around blissfully unaware?

Hrkdrivr
06-13-2007, 07:09 PM
Um...never mind...I just read all the great stuff P-hat wrote about them...GOOD WORK, THANKS!

feydakin
07-02-2007, 10:03 AM
Quick update for all. After more discussions with MC (corporate) they stepped up and covered everything, including labor. The guy I spoke with was very cool and said they have seen it before, but it is rare. Apparently the cause is still unexplained but some think the calipers from those years (03') were buggy. I think this makes sense in my case because something caused the wheel to smoke before it came off. The replacement calipers are apparently better and they have not had reports of failures after using them. Here's to never having that experience again ...

jayocheskey
07-18-2007, 06:14 AM
Quick update for all. After more discussions with MC (corporate) they stepped up and covered everything, including labor. The guy I spoke with was very cool and said they have seen it before, but it is rare. Apparently the cause is still unexplained but some think the calipers from those years (03') were buggy. I think this makes sense in my case because something caused the wheel to smoke before it came off. The replacement calipers are apparently better and they have not had reports of failures after using them. Here's to never having that experience again ...

Who did you talk to at M/C corporate? I just had the EXACT SAME THING happen to my single axle trailer tonight at 60 mph. Saw smoke, then tire ripped right off. Mine looked identical to the pics you posted. Had the wrecker tow it to the M/C service place and will be making a return trip there in the morning. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. THIS F%$#^%$ SUCKS!!!!!

TheOneandOnly
07-18-2007, 08:58 AM
Who did you talk to at M/C corporate? I just had the EXACT SAME THING happen to my single axle trailer tonight at 60 mph. Saw smoke, then tire ripped right off. Mine looked identical to the pics you posted. Had the wrecker tow it to the M/C service place and will be making a return trip there in the morning. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. THIS F%$#^%$ SUCKS!!!!!


Is this the same year trailer?

P-hat_in_Cincy
07-18-2007, 09:30 AM
Profile says 2004 Maristar 210???

jayocheskey
07-18-2007, 10:36 AM
Is this the same year trailer?

No. It's an '04. I had the axle replaced on this single axle trailer less than two years ago.

TMCNo1
07-18-2007, 11:06 AM
What exactly fell off? Tire only, tire/wheel, tire/wheel and hub rotor assembly, what? Just curious.

jayocheskey
07-18-2007, 01:00 PM
What exactly fell off? Tire only, tire/wheel, tire/wheel and hub rotor assembly, what? Just curious.

My bad, in my original post I said "tire". The tire, wheel, hub and studs were all gone. The trailer is sitting on the disc brake right now.

TMCNo1
07-18-2007, 01:04 PM
Is there any way you can post a picture.
If the hub is gone, so is the disc brake rotor and the only thing left would be the brake caliper, right?

jayocheskey
07-18-2007, 01:14 PM
Is there any way you can post a picture.
If the hub is gone, so is the disc brake rotor and the only thing left would be the brake caliper, right?

A few pics.

P-hat_in_Cincy
07-18-2007, 01:18 PM
How much brake pad do you have on that side vs. the other? Sure looks like a lot of heat was developed, unless that's brake dust on the torsion axle arm.

jayocheskey
07-18-2007, 01:24 PM
I haven't compared the two sides. All I know is when I left the boat ramp I had two tires on my trailer - and less than 5 miles later, one of my tires ripped off the trailer. The people at the service place say they see this sort of thing a dozen times a year. The aluminum wheel just doesn't stay put. They said you should check the lugs every 100 miles. In my case, this wheel (the spare) wasn't on the trailer more than 20 miles. The only thing I can think of is the lugs on the spare weren't torqued enough.

P-hat_in_Cincy
07-18-2007, 01:48 PM
They said you should check the lugs every 100 miles. In my case, this wheel (the spare) wasn't on the trailer more than 20 miles. The only thing I can think of is the lugs on the spare weren't torqued enough.

And that's why I always carry my torque wrench with me during towing season. I check before I leave and I'll check within the 1st hour of towing on a longer trip. Every stop I make, I check. It only takes 3mins.

I'd check out your pads to try to see if your caliper was hanging up. I know when my caliper was recently hanging it generated a LOT of heat w/i 3-5 miles and I could smell the pads (maybe some bearing axle grease) burning.

Sorry you have to go thru this. :(

EDIT: Oh...over torque can be just as bad. Go by the book. Torque lug directly opposite prior lug. 3 passes of increasing torque (45, 70, 90 ft.lbs)

TMCNo1
07-18-2007, 01:58 PM
I haven't compared the two sides. All I know is when I left the boat ramp I had two tires on my trailer - and less than 5 miles later, one of my tires ripped off the trailer. The people at the service place say they see this sort of thing a dozen times a year. The aluminum wheel just doesn't stay put. They said you should check the lugs every 100 miles. In my case, this wheel (the spare) wasn't on the trailer more than 20 miles. The only thing I can think of is the lugs on the spare weren't torqued enough.


Will or would the disc brake hub/rotor still spin on the spindle or is it frozen up. If it still spins, all indications would be the lugnuts were not torqued to spec and they worked loose, causing the wheel to wobble, breaking the lugnut studs off and taking the see thru hub cover with it. Did you recover the wheel/tire that came off? and what condition are the holes in the wheel that go on the studs?

It wouldn't be the wheels fault because it is aluminum. Vehicles all over the world, travel millions of miles a day with aluminum wheels on them from the factory and aftermarket and wheels aren't flying off everywhere, unless they are not installed properly and maintained.

jayocheskey
07-19-2007, 12:46 AM
I'm just posing the information that I was given at the service place about the aluminum wheels. This IS NOT an isolated incident. The service manager said he'll see this exact problem a dozen times every year with the aluminum wheels. This isn't my stance; simply the information I was given.

atlfootr
07-19-2007, 01:06 AM
Tell'em you'd like a new trailer, compliments of MasterCraft's Dealer :D :twocents:

feydakin
08-20-2007, 03:04 PM
For what it's worth - I actually will be driving the trailer back to Norris for the first time this weekend. It has taken all summer to get it fixed at the dealer (and get parts). Hopefully we won't see a repeat of the last trip to Norris ...

endl
08-20-2007, 04:15 PM
Hub is still there.......looks like the lug nuts came loose and the wheel sheared the studs off. Were the wheel bearings still intact?

P-hat_in_Cincy
08-20-2007, 04:24 PM
My caliper hanging up created a lot of heat in a very short period of time/distance. I could imagine this starting to weaken parts.

One of the first things that alerted me was the 'hot' smell of the brakes AND hub fluid.

Be prudent. Check tire pressure (especially cold inflation pressure), lug torque, and rim temperature (touch/feel method) often! 5mins of your time could prevent a world of hurt!

endl
08-20-2007, 04:31 PM
I had my old trailer blow out a tire and rip the back half of my fender off what a mess. I am pretty sure it was from low pressure and could have been avoided. I dont tow my new boat as much as it is on a lift but everytime I do now I check oil, lugs tires ect.

Ric
08-20-2007, 04:36 PM
bump . edit, I realize I quoted your old post.... What is the latest?

M-Funf
08-20-2007, 05:15 PM
Tire pressure monitoring systems are out there...

This one is pretty sophisticated, and can monitor both the trailer and the tow vehicle:

Tire Pressure Monitor (http://www.tirepressuremonitor.com/index.htm)