PDA

View Full Version : Check Engine Buzzer


Matthewt
05-26-2007, 10:15 PM
Help! It's Saturday night of Memorial Day weekend and my new X-45 with about 14 hours on it is buzzing and a "check engine" digital display is showing up. It's the Indmar LY6 engine. I have checked the oil and Transmission level and both are good. When the engine is running, the oil pressure is right at the 40 and the Temp. reading is 160 degrees. Does anybody have any idea what's going on. Of course the Lake Lanier dealer is not open on Sunday and I'm pretty sure they won't be open on Monday memorial day. My weekend is shot unless I can figure this thing out. I'm sure a lot of you will not be in over the weekend but hopefully somebody may know something. Any help you can provide would be appreciated. Thanks

JimN
05-26-2007, 11:14 PM
Does the manual have anything about the possible causes of the warning buzzer sounding?

Matthewt
05-27-2007, 07:09 AM
The manual says to see dealer for problem.

Matthewt
05-27-2007, 07:53 AM
Additional information......It sat all night and I tried starting again this morning. Same thing, starts perfectly then within about 15 seconds or so the check engine buzzer starts. I don't believe it's temp. related since it's not even warm yet. I did put about 65 gallons of gas in it within 1/2 hour when it started the buzzing. Everything sounds good and the engine is running great, just the loud warning buzzer.

bigmac
05-27-2007, 07:57 AM
I suppose the oil pressure sender unit could be faulty, but one would hate to make that assumption about something so vital.

When my boat was new, it ran oil pressures at about 40 on the gauge at cruising RPM. It didn't trigger any warnings, but when I changed the break-in oil, I didn't use that (Fram-made) PZ3 oil filter that the boat came with. I switched to a Wix 51069 and immediately noted that the oil pressure registered 40 at idle and 80 at cruising RPM. You could take the opportunity at 14 hours to change the oil and filter now (use the 15W40 that Indmar recommends) and switch to a better filter like Wix or Baldwin (Wix 51069 or NAPA Gold 1069). Alternatively, if you're sure the oil is currently 15W40, you could just spin on a new filter. Do that with the engine cold, use a baggie over the old filter as you remove it, and put a towel in the bilge below it to minimize oil in the bilge.

Since oil and filter change is such a simple procedure, that's the first thing I'd do if I were getting low oil pressure on a new engine.

Matthewt
05-27-2007, 08:05 AM
Thanks, I may give that a try. I would guess I can get a filter at any auto parts store? Not a lot of choices on Sunday morning of Memorial Day weekend. Oil pressure running at 40 is normally correct at idle? Somewhat new to all this....seems to me my oil pressure has stayed right around 40 no matter what speed or rpm.

bigmac
05-27-2007, 08:13 AM
Thanks, I may give that a try. I would guess I can get a filter at any auto parts store? Not a lot of choices on Sunday morning of Memorial Day weekend. Oil pressure running at 40 is normally correct at idle? Somewhat new to all this....seems to me my oil pressure has stayed right around 40 no matter what speed or rpm.

My MCX idles at 40 and the pressure increases at the RPMs increase.

Yeh, but be selective. There can be wide variation in oil filter quality. Frams (including the Penzoil PZ3) are not-so-great. Auto parts stores that are open on Sundays may be more oriented toward cheapo filters like Fram. See if you can find a NAPA store that's open and pick a NAPA Gold. If the oil hasn't been changed since new, NAPA also sells Rotella T 15W40 oil. Your LY6 will use a Wix 51069 or NAPA Gold 1069 filter.

Has the oil/filter been changed since the boat was put into service? You don't mention whether or not that was done at the 10 hour mark as Indmar recommends, or who did it, what parts they used (oil/filter), or if the engine always had that low oil pressure warning, or when it started doing that relative to the break-in oil/filter change if it was indeed done.

Matthewt
05-27-2007, 08:23 AM
I have not done the 10 hour service yet. We really just hit the 10 mark or so Friday/Saturday. Did run it for about 4 hours or so yesterday. Nothing hard, just basic cruising. Figured I would drop it at the dealer on Monday afternoon or Tuesday morning. So...no oil change yet since new. I assume it has 15W40 since that is the recommended oil. Not sure I can handle an oil change.....but am capable of changing the filter. Understand we are guessing as to the problem, but I welcome the input.

bigmac
05-27-2007, 08:50 AM
I have not done the 10 hour service yet. We really just hit the 10 mark or so Friday/Saturday. Did run it for about 4 hours or so yesterday. Nothing hard, just basic cruising. Figured I would drop it at the dealer on Monday afternoon or Tuesday morning. So...no oil change yet since new. I assume it has 15W40 since that is the recommended oil. Not sure I can handle an oil change.....but am capable of changing the filter. Understand we are guessing as to the problem, but I welcome the input.

Did it always have low oil pressure, or is that a new thing?

I wouldn't run it with low oil pressure, but I definitely would change the filter - it might be plugged from break-in crap or something or its internal Fram-crappy valving might have failed - and see if it makes a difference in your oil pressure problem. Changing the oil is probably easier than changing the filter. Get an extractor pump (~$30), hook it up somehow to your oil pan hose (black hose with brass fitting that is probably visible and hanging on your engine), warm it up, drain it with the extractor, refill. Those kinds of oil extractors are readily available at most hardware or automotive stores. Most of those extractors come with a tube that's designed to go down the dipstick tube into your oil pan - that might be simpler than cobbling the parts together to hook it up to your oil pan hose (any hardware store will likely have the necessary parts), but that hose is located at the lowest point of your engine and will drain more completely. Also, I have heard of a couple of people who have tried to drain through the dipstick tube and gotten the extractor tube stuck in there.

JohnnyB
05-27-2007, 08:51 AM
I'm not sure about the orientation of the filter on the LY6 engine. However, I'm assuming it is like the other engine filter orientations and, if you're just going to change the filter, make sure you fill it with oil first. For two reasons:

1) Peace of mind that you're not starting the system with an empty oil filter....that air pocket's gotta go somewhere
2) You're going to be a 1/2 quart low because of the oil in the old filter.

As long as you're changing the filter, I'd just go ahead and pull it on the trailer and change the oil, too. It's probably worth the hour of your time.

bigmac
05-27-2007, 09:05 AM
I'm not sure about the orientation of the filter on the LY6 engine. However, I'm assuming it is like the other engine filter orientations and, if you're just going to change the filter, make sure you fill it with oil first. For two reasons:

1) Peace of mind that you're not starting the system with an empty oil filter....that air pocket's gotta go somewhere
2) You're going to be a 1/2 quart low because of the oil in the old filter.

As long as you're changing the filter, I'd just go ahead and pull it on the trailer and change the oil, too. It's probably worth the hour of your time.

Reasonable points.

Oil and filter change can done on the water or in a lift - if it's already in the water there's no need to pull it out. The engine should be at operating temp to change the oil (that wouldn't matter for a filter change), so if it is on a trailer and he doesn't have some means of hooking his boat up to a garden hose for cooling, then as a temporizing measure to try to address the oil pressure problem, I'd just change the filter.

Matthewt
05-27-2007, 09:07 AM
Thanks guys. I'm off to find a Napa store since it's now 9:00am. I'll buy a filter and some oil for the oil change. Also will look for the extractor pump. I may also pull it from the dock and try an oil change as well. May buy a couple of filters and see if the first one solves the problem. If it does and I feel brave, I may pull the boat and do the oil change as suggested. If I can get through the weekend, I would love to take it to the dealer and let them do all the maint. needed for the first 10 hour check up. I guess you guys feel it is a oil pressure problem....pretty sure.

Matthewt
05-27-2007, 09:14 AM
I could pretty easily pull it and place on the trailer. Would like to just get through the weekend without doing any damage.

bigmac
05-27-2007, 09:15 AM
Thanks guys. I'm off to find a Napa store since it's now 9:00am. I'll buy a filter and some oil for the oil change. Also will look for the extractor pump. I may also pull it from the dock and try an oil change as well. May buy a couple of filters and see if the first one solves the problem. If it does and I feel brave, I may pull the boat and do the oil change as suggested. If I can get through the weekend, I would love to take it to the dealer and let them do all the maint. needed for the first 10 hour check up. I guess you guys feel it is a oil pressure problem....pretty sure.

I'd say so, especially if the warning buzzer is a new problem. Make sure you get the right oil. NAPA carries Rotella T - get 15W40 with API service classification CI-4 / SL. Don't let the counter guy talk you into something that he thinks is equivalent. If your NAPA doesn't have Rotella T, Walmart usually sells Pennzoil Marine or Pennzoil Diesel (same oil) in 15W40 CI-4/SL.

JohnnyB
05-27-2007, 09:16 AM
Best of luck....hope it solves your problem and you have peace of mind for the rest of the weekend.

If the boat is in the water, I'd go ahead and use the extractor pump and change the oil. That pump is a good purchase as it's also good for changing tranny fluid.

Per Mac, get the oil up to temp before trying to drain or pump.

bigmac
05-27-2007, 09:18 AM
I could pretty easily pull it and place on the trailer. Would like to just get through the weekend without doing any damage.

No need to pull it out for an oil change or filter change.

Matthewt
05-27-2007, 11:24 AM
O.K. - I changed the filter the the "Check Engine" buzzer is still going off. Neighbor up here had a similar problem with his Supra at the 10 hour mark or so as well. He thinks it was just a reminder for service. So....I toggled through the selector switch and once I passed the hours meter, the check engine warning went off. I was wrong as well.....the boat had 11.1 hours when it started buzzing. I just took it out for a test drive and ran it for about .5 hour. It ran great and all the gauges are reading normal. I'm hoping that is all it was. Has anybody heard of this before? Like I said earlier, it was going in for the service on Monday afternoon or Tuesday for it's initial 10 hour check up. Thanks to all for your suggestions......at least I have a new oil filter for the rest of the weekend.

Matthewt
05-27-2007, 02:11 PM
Nope, thought it was taken care of but it still is going off every once in awhile while running. I'm starting to assume the selector switch toggle is just a reset and actually have a different problem. Does anybody know if a new Mastercraft actually will display "Check Engine" if the 10 hour service has not been done? Had one problem in the last couple of hours starting it as well. May need to park it until I get service?

bigmac
05-27-2007, 02:53 PM
Does anybody know if a new Mastercraft actually will display "Check Engine" if the 10 hour service has not been done?That's a new one on me, but I don't think so.

I'm unclear, though. Do you actually get a "check engine" light, or just a warning buzzer, or both? On 2007's, a low oil pressure condition will sound the alarm and display "OIL" in the multifunction gauge when the oil pressure is below 4 psi when the RPM less than 1000 RPM or the oil pressure is below 10 psi above 1000 RPM. That same alarm also sounds for engine over-temp, transmission over-temp, and low voltage. IOW, you should be getting a display on the multifunction gauge (LCD in the tachometer) that tells you what the warning buzzer means.

VOLT = Below 11.5 volts
OIL = Oil is below 4 p.s.i. when the RPM is below 1000 RPM or the oil pressure is below 10
p.s.i. and above 1000 RPM.
TEMP = High engine temperature alarm
TRAN = Transmission alarm

But, AFAIK there's no service interval reminder buzzer.

Matthewt
05-27-2007, 03:06 PM
I'm getting a "CHK ENG" display in the multifunction gauge as well as the warning buzzer. Both at the same time. Nothing like VOLT,OIL,TEMP or TRAN to tell me what's wrong. All the gauges are reading as they should. Oil pressure is about 30 or so at idle and at 4000 rpm's the oil pressure is running about 60. The temp gauge is reading 160 degrees when the engine is warmed up. I agree with you, I thought the multifunction display would tell me more if it was something like the oil or temp etc. Thanks again for your input. I really don't want to ruin my weekend, but I don't want to ruin my Mastercraft either.

bigmac
05-27-2007, 03:28 PM
I'm getting a "CHK ENG" display in the multifunction gauge as well as the warning buzzer. Both at the same time. Nothing like VOLT,OIL,TEMP or TRAN to tell me what's wrong. All the gauges are reading as they should. Oil pressure is about 30 or so at idle and at 4000 rpm's the oil pressure is running about 60. The temp gauge is reading 160 degrees when the engine is warmed up. I agree with you, I thought the multifunction display would tell me more if it was something like the oil or temp etc. Thanks again for your input. I really don't want to ruin my weekend, but I don't want to ruin my Mastercraft either.

Ah. In that case it would be my strong suspicion that the problem is in one of the emissions systems. Your dealer can put a code reader on the EFI and determine what the problem is. The 2007's are the first year for closed-loop EFI, and there are more emissions-related sensors (therefore more potential sensor faults).

I'd certainly be reluctant to tell you that just because it's likely emission- control related that it would be OK to run, but emissions systems malfunction shouldn't be nearly as engine-threatening as, say, over-temp or low oil pressure. On my truck, I'll get a Check Engine light if I don't get my gas cap on tight.

But, ICBW. Any "check engine" warning is worth worrying about.

Look at this thread FYI (http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=15209&highlight=check+engine).

Matthewt
05-27-2007, 09:15 PM
I started to think that it had to do with emissions as well. Thanks for sticking with me all day Bigmac. It was nice bouncing idea's and thoughts off of you all day. I too thought about gas caps and such early this morning, since this whole thing started soon after I filled the beast......( I did check both this morning) Once again, thanks for all your thoughts and help. Have a great Monday.

JimN
05-27-2007, 09:24 PM
Unless there's a vapor recovery system, the gas cap won't make any difference. Boats having a fuel tank vent eliminates the possibility of a pressurized fuel tank.

Just for grins, take a tour of the motor and look for loose plugs and harnesses. Specifically, the O2 sensors on the exhaust manifolds, the TPS and MAP sensors, coolant temperature sensor and oil pressure sensor. The oil pressure and temperature gauges each have one sensor and the ECM sees input from separate ones. The coolant temperature sensor has a two wire plug with one yellow and one black wire and this sensor should be on one of the heads.

bigmac
05-27-2007, 09:57 PM
Unless there's a vapor recovery system, the gas cap won't make any difference. Boats having a fuel tank vent eliminates the possibility of a pressurized fuel tank.


Ahem. Yes. I'm aware. I mentioned the gas cap thing only as being illustrative of how finicky emissions systems and their sensors can be on today's closed-loop internal combustion engines.

Otherwise, JimN's suggestion is a good one - a loose connector could well be the problem. Pay particular attention to the area of the engine intake air intake, fuel rail, and especially any wires/plugs attaching anywhere in the vicinity of the exhause manifolds. Don't forget the knock sensor, which ought to be along one side of the block or the other below the spark plugs and has one wire going to it.

Andyg
05-28-2007, 08:27 PM
My warning buzzer started going off the last time I was out (9 hrs) in my 07 197 with the LY6. The check engine display comes up on the multi gage display also. I am also having an obnoxious tranny noise while in reverse. I took it to the dealer and when they had it running with the computer hooked up to it and every minute and a half the #3 cyclinder registered a misfire and would setoff the alarm. By pressing the display button you are reseting the code. If the buzzer comes back it has identified the problem again. The dealer identified the code on Thursday and I haven't heard if they looked at it since. I will let you know what they tell me.

Later

Andyg

Matthewt
05-30-2007, 11:22 PM
Dropped it off at the dealer last night. Hopefully to have back by the weekend. Will let you all know what the heck was going on as soon as I do. Thanks to all for your thoughts.

Andyg
05-30-2007, 11:58 PM
They fixed the cylinder #3 misfire, it was a loose plug wire. Then another code came up when they were out trying to hear the tranny noise. It ended up being a tranny over heat code. They ordered a new tranny. I have my fingers crossed to get it back for the weekend.

onewheat
05-31-2007, 12:04 AM
Is there an OBD2 type connector on a MC you can hook an automotive code reader to? If so, where is it?

Matthewt
06-04-2007, 05:30 PM
Just heard from the dealer. They think the Throttle Body has a problem, at least that is what the code showing up on the computer is telling them. Can somebody tell me what the Throttle Body is or where I can find information about it?

vogelm1
06-04-2007, 10:07 PM
It'll be the unit which the flame arrestor (air cleaner) attaches to. There is a butterfly that opens and closes and controls the amount of air flowing into your intake, and thus mixing with the fuel. Beyond that, I have no clue as to why that would be causing your check engine alarm to fire. Hope everything works out - I'm sure it's in good hands at the dealer.

peemer
05-11-2014, 08:39 AM
I've got the same issue as described in this post.

Engine runs totally fine, but check engine comes up along with a solid tone after 10 seconds of running. Oil pressure fine, good flow of water out the exhaust when using fake-a-lake, connections all reseated, diet cap connections cleaned up, plug wires all look good. Haven not recently changed plugs. One other common theme is I did just top off the fuel.
Is there a way to get the code from the diagnostic connector on the back of the engine? Pretty sure I can get my hands on a computer with an ODB I connector if that is what it is.