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View Full Version : 10 ga. colour coded wires?


kah68
05-24-2007, 09:56 PM
Does anyone know if there is a source for correct, 10 ga. colour coded wires to upgrade the exising wiring harness?

Thanks

Kirk

Workin' 4 Toys
05-25-2007, 08:37 AM
Are you just looking for "labeled" wire? Or are you looking for an entire OEM harness?

kah68
05-25-2007, 09:10 AM
I am looking for proper colour coded wire in a heavier gauge than 14 to replace my purple ignition wires and orange alternator wire. I want to keep the correct marine colours if at all possible.

Kirk

kah68
05-25-2007, 09:10 AM
I am looking for proper colour coded wire in a heavier gauge than 14 to replace my purple ignition wires and orange alternator wire. I want to keep the correct marine colours if at all possible.

Kirk

JimN
05-25-2007, 09:12 AM
There aren't that many 10 AWG wires in the harness, maybe a red and an orange. Any terminals that are on the wires will need replacement and if they aren't installed properly, failure is possible and likely to cause you to hate your boat.

Why do you want to replace the wiring?

JimN
05-25-2007, 09:16 AM
If the purple wire is being upgraded to handle stereo equipment or other accessories, you don't need to replace that wire. You can run a red wire from the battery (fused properly) and use a relay to handle the current. The wiring in the boat is definitely adequate for whatever most applications would call for but the purple should never be used to supply voltage/current to accessories that draw a lot. Also, if you try to supply more current on the purple wire, the ignition switch won't handle it.

You may be able to find these colors in 10AWG but unless you go to a service shop, you probably won't be able to buy a short section, only a full roll. If your alternator isn't a high output model, increasing the wire gauge isn't going to help much of anything. It's not likely to hurt but there is a connector in the harness that you'll need to bypass or include, which adds to the likelihood of connection issues.

Workin' 4 Toys
05-25-2007, 09:25 AM
Wire...... (http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/catview.php?SearchField=24)

JimN
05-25-2007, 03:55 PM
Thanks for the link- I forgot about them.

Workin' 4 Toys
05-25-2007, 03:58 PM
Thanks for the link- I forgot about them.It was my pleasure.....;)

FrankSchwab
05-26-2007, 01:28 AM
This guy on Ebay:
http://stores.ebay.com/Genuinedealz

has good wire deals. I've bought from him in the past; 50' lengths rather than the 25' lengths in Workin's link, but genuine marine-grade wiring.

Marine grade uses thinner strands, but more of them, to make the wire more flexible and less susceptible to fatigue failure from vibration than your standard automotive cable. I'm not sure why a 20' ski boat used 100 hours per year would have to worry about vibration more than my Explorer used 15000 miles per year, with 1000 or so over washboard dirt roads, but hey, who am I to argue?

/frank

Workin' 4 Toys
05-28-2007, 11:05 PM
I've bought from him in the past; 50' lengths rather than the 25' lengths in Workin's link, but genuine marine-grade wiring.

From that link.......;)

FrankSchwab
05-29-2007, 12:42 AM
Of course; I figured that OP would be looking for shorter lengths rather than longer, and the link I provided had the disadvantage that he'd have to buy 50' hanks rather than the 25' hanks in yours.

But my link has prices, nyaa nyaa nyaa.

/frank

Workin' 4 Toys
05-29-2007, 10:46 PM
Enter any of the painless part numbers into the search window within this link (http://www.summitracing.com)

kah68
06-02-2007, 09:49 AM
I am adding a D.U.I. performance distributor and was thinking of running a new 10 ga. purple wire to it. Also the original 10 ga. Orange wire running to the alternator was nicked and is corroded so I am replacing that.


Thanks

Kirk

JimN
06-02-2007, 10:43 AM
I have never seen a 10 AWG wire going to a distributor. That would be a new one for me.

If the charging lead is nicked and you can't find what you want to replace it, you can slide a piece of "heat and seal" shrink wrap over it and shrink it. There's a glue inside that is heat activated and oozes out of the ends, then completely seals. It's better than anything boat and engine manufacturers generally use from the factory and no cuts need to be made, other than possibly replacing the ring terminal on the end.
If that is replaced, I would recommend crimping and soldering it, not just one or the other.