PDA

View Full Version : Teak Care For "Normal" Owners.........


Diesel
05-15-2007, 01:34 PM
So we have the wonderful tutorial by Harold and a few pics of other owners who wielded the sandpaper for many weekends but how about some pointers for the everyday users??

I about to treat/oil my deck before my first outing this weekend and would like to hear what everyone else is using. I have no desire to sand anything and I just want to keep my teak looking like it did from the factory. I usually just oil it a couple of times a year when it needs it and to me it looks great.

So here are a few questions;

Do you use a sealer or oil? Which brand? How often do you apply? Do you use a brush or rag to apply? Do you do both sides or just the top? How many coats?

shepherd
05-15-2007, 01:55 PM
I've always gotten good results using the standard 3-step teak cleaner, brightener, and oil process. No sanding required.

alp
05-15-2007, 02:09 PM
We go with a good scrubbing brush and soapy water, rinse, let dry, then apply a 50/50 mix of linseed oil and mineral spirits. Two coats - let dry in between. Haven't sanded yet. Got this advise from Teak Industries in Tenn. when we bought a new platform from them in 05. Last year we re-scrubbed and applied 1 coat of oil/spirits mix mid summer and again before winter storage.

beatle78
05-15-2007, 02:13 PM
I used the Starbrite 3 step process and it worked nice!!!

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/72433/0/0/starbrite%20teak/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0

Ryan
05-15-2007, 02:22 PM
If you use the cleaner each time you 'oil yer teak' doesn't it eat away some of the wood pulp eventually leaving taller ridges from the rings of the teak tree? This would eventually require sanding to get it all plum.

I only use the clean and brighten steps once a year and oil a few times through the year. I use regular old Starbrite Teak Oil.

Upper Michigan Prostar190
05-15-2007, 02:40 PM
if its really bad, use the starbrite 3 step process. then after its done well, all you have to do is touch it up with a little teak oil if you get some bare spots from skis rubbing. easy. no sanding, no pain in the neck. easy and effective.

BTW, just so Steve dont have to, this is UMP informative post #23. :)

airwear
05-15-2007, 02:55 PM
I make my own solution for cleaning and brightening using TSP, bleach, and water. Then I follow Harold's process for applying the sealer and sanding. I apply about 5 coats to the top, 2 coats to the bottom using a brush. Usually this lasts most of the season. Near the end of the season I apply just teak oil with a rag to make it last.

Then I redo the process at the beginning of each new boating season.

I get comments on my platform all the time, so the process works for me.

Rich_G
05-15-2007, 03:09 PM
I have used the Semco 2-Part Cleaner; the 1st step is an acid and Step 2 is a Neutralizer.

The last couple of times I applied the teak oil, I let it "bake" in full sun after each coat. This seems to make the oil really absorb into the wood.

captain planet
05-15-2007, 03:18 PM
So we have the wonderful tutorial by Harold and a few pics of other owners who wielded the sandpaper for many weekends but how about some pointers for the everyday users??

I about to treat/oil my deck before my first outing this weekend and would like to hear what everyone else is using. I have no desire to sand anything and I just want to keep my teak looking like it did from the factory. I usually just oil it a couple of times a year when it needs it and to me it looks great.

So here are a few questions;

Do you use a sealer or oil? Which brand? How often do you apply? Do you use a brush or rag to apply? Do you do both sides or just the top? How many coats?
Diesel, all you need to know is this:

Deks Olje #2 Matte Finish.

Follow the instructions on the can and touch-up a little during the season depending on the useage of he platform. Use Brightener and Cleaner at the beginning of each season.

trickskier
05-15-2007, 03:53 PM
I wet sand with 600 and then spray several coats of Marine grade polyurethane...............Looks wet & is very slick............ask Chris Wingo!!! NOT RECOMMENDED FOR EVERYONE!!!

peason
05-15-2007, 04:36 PM
a couple coats of this and then touch it up on occasion and you are good to go.

Rich_G
05-15-2007, 04:53 PM
a couple coats of this and then touch it up on occasion and you are good to go.

that is a lower maintenance option, just make sure you understand that it does change the color from the traditional teak look, and doesn't show the grain as much. Has a little bit of an orange tint to it.

6ballsisall
05-15-2007, 05:28 PM
Sand, Sand, and more sanding. I don't go so far as to wet sand but I go up to a 300 grit.
Then I prefer the teak oil which can be found at Lowes. Usually takes a minimum of 2 coats, sometimes 3. For coat #1 I use a rag. All coats thereafter I brush on.
I prefer to add fresh teak oil after every few outings to keep that "fresh" look.

east tx skier
05-15-2007, 08:43 PM
When you sand process once, you really don't have to redo it. I took a power sander to mine, then put a couple three coats on with some progressively finer rubs with steel wool in between. Drying thoroughly in between coats of course. That was a year or so ago. This year, I just rubbed it with the "zero" steel wool and applied one coat of oil, then let it dry for a couple of days. Then lightly hit it with the zero wool again. Total work time was ten minutes. I do it once in February and only spot touch up as needed. Even with hopping off my platform with the ski on, it hasn't needed it again this year.

So the short answer is about 10 minutes a year once you get it set up.

This is an old picture, but it still looks about like this.

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j262/dnortonames/attachment-7.jpg

Diesel
05-16-2007, 10:47 AM
Great feedback. Now you guys keep talking about sanding and I guess I really don't know if sanding is necessary on my deck which only has two seasons on it? How can you tell if you need to sand and what purpose does the sanding serve? Is it just to make it smooth or does it help the oil penetrate?

KnoxX2
05-16-2007, 11:44 AM
Looks wet & is very slick............ask Chris Wingo!!! NOT RECOMMENDED FOR EVERYONE!!!

Nice Disclamer:)

east tx skier
05-16-2007, 11:47 AM
Great feedback. Now you guys keep talking about sanding and I guess I really don't know if sanding is necessary on my deck which only has two seasons on it? How can you tell if you need to sand and what purpose does the sanding serve? Is it just to make it smooth or does it help the oil penetrate?

I think it is just to smooth it out unless you're sanding to strip all the oil/finish off.

If your deck looks pretty good, I'd just hit it with some medium to fine steel wool to smooth things out and apply a coat of oil. I think others have suggested hitting it with the spray wand at the DIY carwash to remove any mildew that might have worked its way in there. After that single coat dries, if it looks good to you, hit it with a little finishing steel wool and put it back on the boat. That's worked well for me. I rarely touch it up apart from the first of the year.

To answer another question, I think the regular starbrite that has been recommended has a sealer. When I couldn't find it locally a few years ago, I went with Amazon Teak Oil. I honestly have no idea if it has a sealer or not. But it's been fine. The only oil I've used that I haven't been pleased with is Watco.

betsy&david Harrison
05-16-2007, 11:48 AM
You guys would cry if you saw my swim step :(

KnoxX2
05-16-2007, 11:50 AM
I just put a coat of Teak Oil on every few weeks. Looks good to me.

betsy&david Harrison
05-16-2007, 11:53 AM
I thought some of you put a good word in for my swim step?

fintek9
05-16-2007, 02:55 PM
just be carefull not to put on to much, to the point that the teak has absorbed all it can take,.. it will track on to the cushions from the feet
my lesson learned!!

TMCNo1
05-16-2007, 03:05 PM
just be carefull not to put on to much, to the point that the teak has absorbed all it can take,.. it will track on to the cushions from the feet
my lesson learned!!


:uglyhamme :uglyhamme :uglyhamme After 18 years, I guess it helps my upholstery stay new, I dunno?

atlfootr
05-16-2007, 06:53 PM
I've always gotten good results using the standard 3-step teak cleaner, brightener, and oil process. No sanding required.2ND that, what Shep said it's (lazy man's way) NO SANDING PROCESS :D

TMCNo1
05-17-2007, 02:38 PM
What is NORMAL?????????????:confused: :rolleyes:I haven't found anything in my owners manual to define it.

wake pop
05-17-2007, 04:05 PM
The last teak deck I had I used a product called TeakGuard. I was able to prep, clean, and get 4 coats on in the same day. Looked awesome and it was easy to spot touchup any damaged areas. You get 2 years out of it easy.

goplay
05-17-2007, 06:20 PM
I am not a big fan of teak oil... oil can start to degrade and actually mold.

I really like Semco. It keeps teaks natural traction, and maintains the natural color. I use it on my 65' as well as, my Mastercraft.

TMCNo1
05-17-2007, 07:43 PM
I am not a big fan of teak oil... oil can start to degrade and actually mold.

I really like Semco. It keeps teaks natural traction, and maintains the natural color. I use it on my 65' as well as, my Mastercraft.


I see what your talking about, ours has so much mold on it from so much teak oil, I have to trim the fuzz with my wife cordless waterproof electric shaver!

Leroy
05-17-2007, 07:48 PM
Teak oil in spray bottle, spray down every 2-4 weeks after use.

SkiDog
05-17-2007, 08:14 PM
This product is made by Shield Products. Check it out, It lasts for years without recoating. Also, its NOT slick!
www.shieldproducts.com






SKU-40078 TEAK SHIELD WOOD COATING Excellent for most woods, Long lasting, easy application, no fade, no chalking, very flexible, No mildew. Great for Teak & Mahogany. Can always be recoated. Quartts, Gal or 5ís

Diesel
05-18-2007, 09:32 AM
Teak oil in spray bottle, spray down every 2-4 weeks after use.

Now that's what I am talking about! Why did I not think of this.

east tx skier
05-18-2007, 10:20 AM
Now that's what I am talking about! Why did I not think of this.

Just be careful spraying while the platform is on the boat. And spread that stuff around with your, hand, a rag, or a brush so it doesn't bead up.

theDano
05-18-2007, 11:13 AM
The reason I went through the "big process" of sanding all the way down to the bare wood and go through all the sanding/oiling steps was to get remove previous owners attempts of partial sanding and stopping. So it left a very uneven appearance of dark/light patches all over. And the other reason was to remove some big dings that were put there over the years.

Now that I have all of this done.....it will be easy to keep it up and looking nice from year to year. No more huge project!