View Full Version : Painting Trailer

01-31-2005, 05:05 PM
I am going to repaint my trailer. will automotive work on the metal and the fiberglass fenders? :headbang: :headbang:

east tx skier
01-31-2005, 05:09 PM
Krylon or Rustoleum over primer worked great on the frame for me. Not sure about the fenders though as mine didn't need any paint.

01-31-2005, 05:11 PM
does it come in like a quart or half gallon, where do you get it from and how much

01-31-2005, 05:28 PM
Don't paint fiberglass fenders, if they have faded use rubbing compound to bring back they're shine. You could have a fiberglass shop shoot another layer of gel coat on them but this could get expensive.

east tx skier
01-31-2005, 05:44 PM
Mine came in cans with little metal balls in them and a spray nozzle on the top. :)

01-31-2005, 05:49 PM
i am wanting to paint the trailer a different color, the fiber glass is off white and i am going to paint it black. will the fiberglass react weird to the paint.

01-31-2005, 05:52 PM
How many cans of Spray Paint did it take to do the whole thing? Does the spray paint work and look good?

01-31-2005, 06:04 PM
It's been many years since I painted a car, but I don't know of any reason why automotive paint wouldn't work and the color select is infinite. Seems like a Jeremy question! For any painting you need good preparation, clear out all rust, feather the paint, etc, good primer, good paint, plus a dust free area to do this or you will be familiar with mosquito hatches, pollens, and all sorts of airborn particles. My advise for the whole trailer if you don't already have the equipment is to just have a body shop do it, it's real easy to look like your first job! :eek:

east tx skier
01-31-2005, 06:20 PM
I was touching up a number of different areas as well as the entire prop guard. Unless I'm really close (less than a foot away), I'd be hard-pressed to tell what was factory and what was touch up. It was white paint so it looks about as good as I expected it to look. I probably went through 3 or 4 cans.

01-31-2005, 06:25 PM
The primer is as important as the paint itself.Are you sandblasting the trailer?
Are you starting from bare steel?

01-31-2005, 08:18 PM
What are you doing to prep the metal for painting? I have a few rust spots I'd like to take care of - I don't want to make it a bigger job than it needs to be, but still want it to look good.

01-31-2005, 10:29 PM
If you're careful you can do a few spots like Doug did, but the whole trailer seems like a big job for the little cans with a ball in them.

02-01-2005, 11:16 AM
i am planning on pulling of the fenders and the slides. i am then going to sand down the whole trailer until i can't see any more rust then primer and paint it. i and also going to sand the fenders smooth and paint those as well and put some new side maker lights on it. i have all the tools and compressor but i am not sure how much paint i will need and how much the paint will cost.

02-01-2005, 12:42 PM
Automotive paint will work well both on the trailer and on the fiberglass. Preparation req'd is of course thoroughly clean, all dirt, oil, etc off. Sand rusty spots down to bare metal and prime ASAP. Everything else, sand completely w/ 400 grit (need to take the "shine" off of everything fro the new paint to bond).
Some paints require primer first, others don't.
Before priming or painting, entire surface need to be wiped down with solvent (lacquer thinner, or product specific prep. cleaners) to remove all dust, oils, etc again.
Paint either with single stage enamel, or base coat/ clear coat. If the trlr sees alot of sunlight, I'd go 2 stage (base/clear). If not, single stage will last for years.
To do an entire trailer, although not that much surface area, you'll have alot of overspray due to the narrow rails you're painting. It'll take close to a gallon of paint. If you buy a gallon, w/ the reducer it'll make 2+ usable gallons. Although if you buy by the quart, 2 quarts costs almost as much as a gallon.
DO NOT paint your whole trlr w/ spray cans! You won't like it and it won't last near as long as professional grade coatings.
Cost, prep and paint materials only. $200-500 depending on the quality of the paint.
Your best bet if unfamiliar w/ auto painting, is to go to a good body shop supply store. Get a reccomendation for materials and get all the literature they have for each product, which gives prep, prime, compatability, painting, mixing instructions. If you follow those, your only variable is getting the gun to spray right.
These are pretty vague guidelines, but if you have an A/C, and a paint gun, the rest is mostly elbow grease, not rocket science.

east tx skier
02-01-2005, 12:46 PM
For the rust spots, I took a grinder and worked it down to the metal (take your bunks off and have a look at the angle irons that suppor them). Then I primed. Then I painted.

02-01-2005, 01:08 PM
I had a guy sandblast, etch-primed, and paint my trailer with black car (sintara?) paint. He then took the fenders and clear coated them, because that is the only thing you see with the boat on with the 80's trailers. I then finshed it out with LED lights all the way around, raised letter Marathons, and alum. 5 spoke rims w/ new hubs. This is a second income for the guy so he only charged me 375 for everything. Well worth it. Pic's of it are in my gallery.

02-01-2005, 02:02 PM
Thanks for the info guys. 86Craft i have that same boat was your trailer a off white color? that is what i want my trailer to look like i think the black looks alot cooler. :headbang:

02-01-2005, 02:07 PM
86Craft where did you get those stickers for your trailer?

lakes Rick
02-01-2005, 06:32 PM
I had a guy sandblast, etch-primed, and paint my trailer with black car (sintara?) paint. He then took the fenders and clear coated them, because that is the only thing you see with the boat on with the 80's trailers. I then finshed it out with LED lights all the way around, raised letter Marathons, and alum. 5 spoke rims w/ new hubs. This is a second income for the guy so he only charged me 375 for everything. Well worth it. Pic's of it are in my gallery.

Dupont "Centari" paint was all we ever used before the BC CC paints emerged.. Good stuff...

02-01-2005, 06:56 PM
I paid a guy $350 a few years back to blast my trailer and repaint it with some sort of zinc primer under the paint. (this was on a Supra)
It DID NOT look OEM, but it looked really good for $ 350 and no rust
I had to remove, boat, bunks, lights and hardware, then he did the rest.

I was shocked when he called me up and said I need to come see the trailer after blast
there were some areas rusted clean through and I think the bunks were about the only thing still holding it together! I took it to a welder buddy and had him weld up all the rotted areas and then back to the painter. Had I only patch shot the rusty areas, I'd have never known just how bad it really was :eek:

02-02-2005, 08:00 AM
Yes, my trailer was white, and a eye sore. :noface: The fenders just need a little extra care on getting them ready to paint. All hardware, lights,carpet and hubs/rims came from Champion Trailer Sales in Louisiana. Sorry, I forgot about the stickers. I had a gal from Marketing help me find the font that match what MC use those years and had her send that to a local sign shop where they cut me stickers for all the way around. Cost was 40 dollars, plus one for the back window of the truck. They are made on Chrome paper as that is what sticks out on the black and also matches the rims/truck. I replaced the bunks also and there seemed to be a funky angle on them that we cut on the table saw with no problems.

02-02-2005, 08:56 AM
Good to know ~$350 seems to be the price to get trailer prepped and painted.

02-02-2005, 10:54 AM
IMO, if you can get your trailer prefessionally painted for $350-400 that's a good deal and not worth the time to do it yourself.

east tx skier
02-02-2005, 11:19 AM
Agreed. But the question is, where are you going to put the boat?

Dan K
02-02-2005, 11:26 AM
I agree that 350 is a good deal. I did mine (80's era) last summer myself. I sandblasted the entir trailer primed it with a polyurathane undercarriage prime and repainted it white. Added New Bunks, LED lighting and Aluminum rims. This was a few days work. Sandblasting can be a pain but provides the best bite for the new paint to hold onto. The undercarriage primer had to be recoated within a few hours or it required thorough sanding if allowed to dry completely. this was the most touchy part.
I am very satisfied with the results and wished I had done it sooner since the rusty trailer was pretty ugly looking.
I used 1qt of primer and 1 1/2 qt of paint since I painted the fenders without using the same primer (just used a can for this).
LED's really make the trailer look cool when your all done, see previous thread on this.

03-01-2005, 01:45 PM
I highly recommend having your trailer done by someone who knows what they are doing. Automotive paint can be harmful to you and the enviorment. Collision shops have special paint booths that can filter out the harmful toxins and they have trained people that know who to use and handle the chemicals. Not to mention the only way to have a quality paint job is to do all the prework right. I restore cars as a hobby and my brother works at a collision shop.

Actually probabaly going to give our trailer a redo this summer.

Dan K
03-01-2005, 02:32 PM
excellent point on the toxicity. I used a respirator even though I did it all out in the open. Sandblasting produces silica which is bad for you and the paint fumes are pretty potent as well.

03-01-2005, 03:58 PM
The way I look at it 300 to 500 bucks is cheap health insurance. :D

03-01-2005, 04:21 PM
I think I have told this story before, but..........in the early 90's I had a 87 PS 190 and the trailer was starting to look pretty bad. I paid a local marina $25 to lift it off the trailer and store it for a week while I took the trailer to the local vocational school body shop. The students sand blasted it then painted it. I had set this all up with the teacher before hand and he did tell me it may have a few drips in the paint but it should look ok. It may have had a drip or two but over all it looked very good. I was only charged for materials that amounted to about $80.00.

Money well spent. Check out your local vo-ed schools.