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View Full Version : sheered alternator bolts!!!


BCBlazers
05-01-2007, 10:07 AM
I've put about 6 hours on my new boat and developed a horrible squeal mentioned in an earlier thread, which went away after the boat warmed up. Now i have two sheered off bolts on my alternator bracket that are gonna SUCK to get out! I'm not sure if they were like that when i bought the boat and they just had the remaining one tightened enough to hold for the sale or what. Now i've got the wonderful project of getting the bolts out (better than paying MC for labor!)
If any of ya'll have any suggestions about getting the bolts out, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks guys

wsrobert
05-01-2007, 10:10 AM
From my experience, it's best to remove as much as possible to give yourself plenty of room. I know you don't want to have to take off and put back alot of equipment, but sometimes it's better to bite the bullet when trying to get to hard-to-reach bolts. I'm not a professional mechanic, so this is just opinion thru learning the hard way.

Ric
05-01-2007, 10:16 AM
There was some sort of recall on alternator bolts and a replacement alternator bracket. Do a search on this site, you are not alone. What year is the boat?

BCBlazers
05-01-2007, 10:20 AM
04 X-2 has 325 hrs. mint cond. guy ran in brackish water though

Ric
05-01-2007, 10:34 AM
so it's an mcx motor?

BCBlazers
05-01-2007, 10:38 AM
yeah 350 mcx

Romanod
05-01-2007, 10:49 AM
Go to an auto store and ask for an easy out. You drill a hole in the bolt and use the east out to remove it.

Ric
05-01-2007, 12:02 PM
Romanod has the fix (I'll add some liquid wrench to that autozone trip) . What I don't know is if MC is paying dealers to repair broken bolts under warranty or simply supplying the new bracket under warranty. Get on the horn and find out the details of that recall stuff. Call your dealer first... THat is the Mantra here!

Workin' 4 Toys
05-02-2007, 10:12 AM
I've put about 6 hours on my new boat and developed a horrible squeal mentioned in an earlier thread, which went away after the boat warmed up. Now i have two sheered off bolts on my alternator bracket that are gonna SUCK to get out! I'm not sure if they were like that when i bought the boat and they just had the remaining one tightened enough to hold for the sale or what. Now i've got the wonderful project of getting the bolts out (better than paying MC for labor!)
If any of ya'll have any suggestions about getting the bolts out, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks guys
BEFORE YOU DRILL ANYTHING!!!
Try this. Take a very sharp bit ( I would use a wood boring spade bit) and set the tip (Red circle in pic) and lightly tap in a counterclock wise rotation Until the bolt starts to turn. Tapping slightly harder each time until it turns. The closer the tip of the bit is to the edge of the bolt, the easier it should work itself out. DO NOT HIT THE BLOCK!!

Unless you know 100% for sure you can drill those grade 5 bolt with enough precision that you guarantee yourself you will not harm the threads in the engine block, You won't want to even think about labor involved to fix THAT problem!!!

And for the new an improved alternator bracket, I would HIGHLY suggest going to the dealer, and see if they can get it warrantied. If not, buy the bracket and bolts. I believe they suggest using stainless bolts in the new bracket.

Workin' 4 Toys
05-02-2007, 10:17 AM
Option 2, if you feel the need to drill them out. I might suggest a left-handed drill bit in lieu of a standard right-hand bit. Because while drilling with the right-hand bit, it will "tighten" the bolt if its already somewhat loose. A left-handed bit will "assist" in the removal....;)

JRW160
04-01-2012, 11:34 AM
I noticed this yesterday. Alternator belt was making some noise. I openen the engine compartment and saw a bolt hanging out of the alternator. I pulled it out and it was obviously sheared. When I gt it home and looked at it, I found out the the other bolt was also sheared and missing. I had to use a left handed drill bit to get the rest of the bolt out of the block. I replaced the bolts with grade 8 3/8" 16 x 3.5". Will the new bolts fix the issue or do I need to get the updated alternator bracket?

Jeff d
04-01-2012, 11:50 AM
Get the bracket too. If not you may end up breaking the lower alternator "ear" off like I did. I couldn't get the remaining bolt piece out of my bracket either. Broke an ez out off in the hole. Ended up having to buy a new alternator, main bracket, and the supplemental bracket. $25 for the supplemental bracket is cheap insurance especially when you factor in the possibility of being stranded on the water.

JimN
04-01-2012, 01:10 PM
Romanod has the fix (I'll add some liquid wrench to that autozone trip) . What I don't know is if MC is paying dealers to repair broken bolts under warranty or simply supplying the new bracket under warranty. Get on the horn and find out the details of that recall stuff. Call your dealer first... THat is the Mantra here!

They used to pay for the repair. If it requires removing the old bolts, so be it but a good mechanic will be able to remove them in very little time and on a new boat, they shouldn't be too hard to get out, especially since the bolt should never bottom out in the hole. For that matter, an old bolt/hole that hasn't corroded shouldn't be much of a problem, either.

Use a center punch to create a small dimple in the center, use a drill bit that's about 1/3 the diameter of the bolt and drill a hole. I have used small screwdrivers to get the bolts out after the hole is there. As long as the drill bit doesn't mess up the thread too badly, the new bolt should hold fine but even if the thread is damaged in a small area, the bolt should hold without letting the bolt back out. Worst case, drill the hole one size larger, tap it and replace the bolt.

Using a Grade 8 bolt as a replacement isn't the answer to this, either. A fastener is spec'd, based on the tension needed and the material it's going into. If a harder bolt is used and what it's threaded into can't survive the forces, the bolt isn't what will fail.

As far as drill bits, don't fall for the "anything with Titanium is great" trap. I have seen bits that were coated with this and they were absolutely crap. I once bent one with my bare fingers to make a point to an old boss. The ones I use are from Sears- Titanium Nitride- they have a groove for clearing out the metal chips and they last a long time. I originally got mine because someone here called The Legend was using them at the dealership where we worked and they survived fiberglass and stainless better than anything else.

CantRepeat
04-01-2012, 01:23 PM
Weld a nut onto the broken end. The heat will loosen bolt and you now have nut to turn it with.

Engine Nut
04-01-2012, 01:52 PM
The kit P/N is 495122. The bracket is bent differently so the bolts are not long like they were for the original bracket. Sorry, no warranty coverage on that issue any more. There was not a recall on the original bracket. The change was a running change in production.

JimN
04-01-2012, 02:06 PM
Weld a nut onto the broken end. The heat will loosen bolt and you now have nut to turn it with.

I doubt that would be necessary. I have removed some of these with a precision screwdriver after I drilled an 1/8" hole.

catamount
04-01-2012, 02:09 PM
I went through this recently. You method of attack, imho, should be the following:

- Soak with plenty of PB Blaster before doing anything
- Weld nut onto stud (if you own a welder, but if you owned a welder I doubt you'd be posting this)
- Left handed drill bit 2/3rds the width of the broken stud. Start SLOW. Find them at auto part stores. Must run with the drill in reverse.
- Easy Out should be avoided imho. If it's frozen enough to break the head off, you risk a broken easy out inside the hole which is -much worse-
- Heli-coil is your last resort, but fairly easy to do and a very solid repair.

JimN
04-01-2012, 02:24 PM
I went through this recently. You method of attack, imho, should be the following:

- Soak with plenty of PB Blaster before doing anything
- Weld nut onto stud (if you own a welder, but if you owned a welder I doubt you'd be posting this)
- Left handed drill bit 2/3rds the width of the broken stud. Start SLOW. Find them at auto part stores. Must run with the drill in reverse.
- Easy Out should be avoided imho. If it's frozen enough to break the head off, you risk a broken easy out inside the hole which is -much worse-
- Heli-coil is your last resort, but fairly easy to do and a very solid repair.

Most of the time, the bolt breaks because of stresses in it's installed position, not from being removed. For this reason, most of what you detailed isn't necessary. If you were to use a left-handed drill bit, I would bet the remains of the bolt would just come out as soon as the spur dug in to cut.

Yeah- I tried to use the square Easy Outs when I broke a head bolt on my '73 Nova and since the bolt was work-hardened, the Easy Outs were toast as soon as I tried to tap them in. The helical ones are a lot better and Sears has some with a twist drill at the tip, but I have never needed them- with PB Blaster, a small drill bit, a small screwdriver and patience, I was able to remove any bolt that was in the casting.

Table Rocker
04-01-2012, 02:33 PM
I'm not sure if it is the part you need or not, but the price is hard to beat:
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/MasterCraft-Alternator-Bracket-w-Bolt-NEW-/00/$(KGrHqN,!i0E4r-nDDdeBOLsVE6rkw~~_12.JPG
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MasterCraft-Alternator-Bracket-w-Bolt-NEW-/220868091891?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item336cc39ff3#ht_1728wt_977 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MasterCraft-Alternator-Bracket-w-Bolt-NEW-/220868091891?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item336cc39ff3#ht_1728wt_977)

catamount
04-01-2012, 02:36 PM
You've never had to resort to a heli-coil? Consider yourself very lucky not to live in the rust belt (I assume?).

25-30 years up here in Vermont where they throw salt on the roads every winter and a drill + punch is just not going to cut it sometimes. I've had to resort to some extreme measures from time to time.

I'll cross my fingers for the OP.

JimN
04-01-2012, 02:40 PM
You've never had to resort to a heli-coil? Consider yourself very lucky not to live in the rust belt (I assume?).

25-30 years up here in Vermont and a drill + punch is just not going to cut it sometimes. I've had to resort to some extreme measures from time to time.

I'll cross my fingers for the OP.

I'm in Wisconsin and the way they spread that crap around, I'm amazed cars last more than a year or two. I gave up buying cars and trucks here- I get them in Phoenix. Not only do I get a vehicle that has never been exposed to salt, snow and the roads here, but I get a vacation & a chance to see my friends.

The only time a Helicoil is needed is when the bolt goes into a softer metal, like aluminum or when you absolutely must use the same size of bolt. In cast iron, it's usually not needed but sometimes, the hole must be embiggened (yes, it's a real word), so a bolt of the next size can be used.

I thought the OP's boat is only about 6 years old. Either way, if drilling a hole is necessary, it's best to start with a center punch.

Cloaked
04-01-2012, 02:44 PM
.....25-30 years up here in Vermont where they throw salt on the roads every winter damn :D .....

Jeff d
04-01-2012, 02:49 PM
.. the hole must be embiggened (yes, it's a real word),
Yeah, if you're Jebadiah Springfield.

Jeff d
04-01-2012, 02:55 PM
Fwiw I wasn't too experienced with difficult bolt extraction when mine broke on my '00. It was both corroded and appeared to have been broken off for a while (before I owned it). The remaining bolt had been "peened" overtime by the loose alternator. So much so that I could barely tell where the bracket ended and the pice of the bolt began. I started with penetrating lube, a hammer and punch, attempting to rotate the piece out. It didn't budge so I drilled it and tried to use an ex out which broke off without budging. Then I opted to just drill a through hole in that ear of the bracket and use a nut and bolt. That worked but my hole was off slightly which caused a slight misalignment with the new supplemental bracket. So, I opted just to replace the main bracket too.

I don't recommend my methodology.

CantRepeat
04-01-2012, 02:59 PM
I'm in Wisconsin.

The only time a Helicoil is needed is when the bolt goes into a softer metal, like aluminum or when you absolutely must use the same size of bolt. In cast iron, it's usually not needed but sometimes, the hole must be embiggened (yes, it's a real word), so a bolt of the next size can be used.

I thought the OP's boat is only about 6 years old. Either way, if drilling a hole is necessary, it's best to start with a center punch.

And a spring loaded one at that.

JimN
04-01-2012, 07:05 PM
Yeah, if you're Jebadiah Springfield.

Don't judge me! It's a perfectly cromulent word.

JRW160
04-02-2012, 03:29 PM
Anyone know where I can get the updated alternator bracket?

mtajpa
04-02-2012, 07:49 PM
Not sure but this may be it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MasterCraft-Alternator-Bracket-w-Bolt-NEW-/220868091891?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item336cc39ff3

Jeff d
04-02-2012, 07:56 PM
Not sure but this may be it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MasterCraft-Alternator-Bracket-w-Bolt-NEW-/220868091891?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item336cc39ff3

That looks like her. Good price too.

gotta_ski
04-02-2012, 09:50 PM
JimN, can you elaborate a bit more on what you are doing with the small screwdriver after you drill a hole in the bolt? I'm not understanding exactly what you mean. Are you jamming it in the hole to turn the bolt? I'd like to get away from my method of breaking off an E-Z out in the hole and then having to deal with hardened tool steel instead of just a bolt stuck in there.

JimN
04-02-2012, 10:41 PM
JimN, can you elaborate a bit more on what you are doing with the small screwdriver after you drill a hole in the bolt? I'm not understanding exactly what you mean. Are you jamming it in the hole to turn the bolt? I'd like to get away from my method of breaking off an E-Z out in the hole and then having to deal with hardened tool steel instead of just a bolt stuck in there.

I just tapped it into the hole I drilled because, as I was drilling the hole, I saw the bolt turn. That means there's almost nothing keeping it from coming out and the precision screwdriver was handy, so I used it. In a situation where the bolt is rusted into the hole or the thread is galled, a larger hole and an Easy-Out might be needed. The Easy-Out would basically snap off and using a center bunch should fracture whatever is in the hole.

JRW160
04-03-2012, 10:24 AM
Not sure but this may be it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MasterCraft-Alternator-Bracket-w-Bolt-NEW-/220868091891?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item336cc39ff3
I don't think that's the right one. The picture in this post looks a lot different.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=121578&postcount=31

I searched using part number S495122 and found one on ebay for $22 shipped.