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View Full Version : Rotary Buffer and what pads to use???


beatle78
04-27-2007, 05:10 PM
Hi guys,

I bought the Meguiar's Fiberglass Restoration kit to fix the oxidation on the back of my 205V.

http://www.meguiars.com/?boat-rv-kits/Fiberglass-Restoration-System

1. I'm looking for a decent (cheap) rotary buffer to buy.
2. What pads should I buy for it for each step (ox. remover, polish, wax)

Any suggestions?

thanks,
beatle78

JKTX21
04-27-2007, 05:49 PM
Hi guys,

I bought the Meguiar's Fiberglass Restoration kit to fix the oxidation on the back of my 205V.

http://www.meguiars.com/?boat-rv-kits/Fiberglass-Restoration-System

1. I'm looking for a decent (cheap) rotary buffer to buy.
2. What pads should I buy for it for each step (ox. remover, polish, wax)

Any suggestions?

thanks,
beatle78

I purchased a variable speed rotary buffer from Habor Freight for $30 a while back. I still need bust it out of the box and get to waxing. That looks like it will be my weekend project.

beatle78
04-27-2007, 06:58 PM
sweet JTX. They just opened a Harbor Freight near my house. Let me know how you like it. I may go pick one up next week!!!

hester
04-27-2007, 08:52 PM
Some how I talked myself in to the high $ route and will report back on the results. I saw the 1990 PS190 restoration thread and wanted those results.

I got the complete restore kit from properboatcare.com and the Hitachi SP18VA circular.

I'm sure just about anything would work but the Hitachi has been desigend to compete with the big dog brands and has a 5 year warranty.

JKTX21
04-27-2007, 09:44 PM
sweet JTX. They just opened a Harbor Freight near my house. Let me know how you like it. I may go pick one up next week!!!

I really like this place. It's perfect to buy tools/equipment that you will use once or lightly. Every now and then I purchase something that doesn't work, but they always refund me.

Hoosier Bob
04-27-2007, 11:57 PM
I own a couple of Milwaukee Buffers. I have had one since the early eighties and the other is a recent variable speed job. No slow, rebuildable and run like a dream! Heavy maybe but solid as a rock.

Workin' 4 Toys
04-28-2007, 03:23 PM
This is the one I have, and if I were shopping, I'd get it again or the milwaukee.http://www.1car-detailing-training.com/catalog/images/DW849.jpg

Workin' 4 Toys
04-28-2007, 03:25 PM
And a good site to see which pad you want to use...
Buffer pads click here (http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/marine/node_GS4MRNDDGTbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GS4JK4Y166ge/gvel_9NQK7NZ8TZgl/theme_us_marine_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html)

beatle78
04-28-2007, 09:06 PM
what speed buffers are all of yours?

Are the variable by trigger or is there a high and low setting? If the latter, what's the high speed and what's the low speed.

and last, what speed to do compound, polish, & wax at?

Can you tell I'm nervous? :o

Hoosier Bob
04-28-2007, 09:25 PM
Automobiles, darker the paint the thinner. Lighter is thicker and KEEP OFF THE EDGES. Too slow will burn keep it wet and moving. 1750 RPM on both of mine but one is variable. Always run full on. Gel you should be fine with almost anything as it is much harder than paint. Wetsand a bad spot (2'x2')with fine/ultra fine if heavily faded you may need a little more then buff with some gelcoat compound. Work a small area and once confident move on. I purchased my newest buffer at a pawn shop less cord for $50, you cannot tell it is not new! Steve SlinkyRedfoot took care of the rest! He may have the hot setup so PM him. Many on here will give you some solid advice but Gel is hard and you have a ton more freedom to "buff" than you do on a black auto. I doubt you will burn it but the wetter and the messier the better IMO! Constantly watch what is happening and keep a rag around to wipe and check. If you get one of these buffers watch the cord! On autos watch anything that is loose, antenna, wiper, moulding etc.. these buffers will remove more than paint. Set towels/drop cloths over areas you do not wish to clean later. If you do not wish to buff your auto and motorcycle at the same time MOVE THEM!:D

Good luck!

HB

Carbrite makes some great stuff. Dupont has the ultimate foam pads that are awesome but costly!

Workin' 4 Toys
04-28-2007, 10:01 PM
when HB says ultra fine, that means in the range of 1600 or 2000 grit....And it must be wet/dry paper and should be used with a soap/water solution.
Variable speed is better IMO, especially if its your first time. You will want to test an area and I use a slow start speed to "spread" the polish before Splattering it all over the place. Guys with experience will use high speed all the time. I prefer the ease into it method, but they both do the job, you just have to be real careful.
I went against my better judgement and recently loaned mine to a friend that wanted to use it on his boat. He had never used one before. I still don't know which wax/cleaner he bought, but he can't believe how well it turned out. (I have not seen it yet) And for the most part, I gave him the same advice you are reading here in your thread.


Oh, and I should note, its good to be nervous....If you burn a hole in the side of your boat, I am going to delete all of my suggestions....:rolleyes: HB might let you come practice on his truck......8p

Blair
04-28-2007, 10:33 PM
WFT is your the electronic variable???

we bought dad this one for his birthday...

http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=174

variable speed... 8 settings from like 1000rpm to like 3000...

expensive as hell... but its what a friend whos a bodyman recomended as its what they use at the shop..

Hoosier Bob
04-28-2007, 10:34 PM
Nice WFT! You had me at Ultra Fine! Truck is Black and not the best starter color. I began life at Car Cosmetics as a Wheel Man back in 81.
Turn and burn! I turned and made the mess and some one else finished and cleaned up. Clean myself up with the compressor and head to the bar! Nothing like peeling off a days crust. Newport News VA in the summer time gets hot! High school was cool! Job paid very well back then.

Nice advice again!

88 PS190
04-28-2007, 10:48 PM
I also have that milwaukee, unlike many of the others you could put a cut off wheel on it and it would work.

Workin' 4 Toys
04-29-2007, 12:03 AM
WFT is your the electronic variable???

we bought dad this one for his birthday...

http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=174

variable speed... 8 settings from like 1000rpm to like 3000...

expensive as hell... but its what a friend whos a bodyman recomended as its what they use at the shop..
Yes it is trigger variable speed. REAL nice unit. I use the rubber backing pad with disc nut for the wool pads, but I have the hook and loop backing pad for the foam pad. I believe its speed range is 0-1800....

Blair
04-29-2007, 02:35 AM
Yes it is trigger variable speed. REAL nice unit. I use the rubber backing pad with disc nut for the wool pads, but I have the hook and loop backing pad for the foam pad. I believe its speed range is 0-1800....


so ours are diffrent then... the one we have has a thumb wheel dial to adjust the speed...

but yeah it has the same pads... the boat will be getting some much needed TLC after a long winter

bret
04-29-2007, 08:56 AM
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/index.html

you can take these same principles and products and apply them to your boat. I use a cleaner, polish/swirl remover, then wax. I don't use a sealant but some do. I do use a sealant on my old black Porsche.

http://www.tmcowners.com/photopost/data/501/247master1.jpg

beatle78
04-29-2007, 09:45 AM
THANKS GUYS!!!! This was very helpful.....

my last question is, do I use wool or foam pads? Or am I reading that I need different material for different steps in the process?

hester
04-29-2007, 10:15 AM
Yes, you will use different pads for different steps. If you search the board and google you can find good buffing procedures. This is the free guide I'm going to use.

http://properboatcare.com/bowtostapgu.html

Workin' 4 Toys
04-29-2007, 10:21 PM
IMO- you will probably be happy with the results of the wool....

beatle78
04-30-2007, 02:07 PM
thanks Hester! I'm gonna check out that link whe I get home.

Workin4Toys,

Can I use a wool pad for for all 3 steps? Or is a wool pad just for the compund phase?

wakescene
04-30-2007, 03:02 PM
Here's some info on a buffing project I did 2 years ago... http://www.wakeboardnj.com/projects/My%20beautification%20project.pdf

beatle78
05-01-2007, 09:59 AM
nice article wakescene!

I'll be skipping the wet sanding and starting with the compound.

It seems like the compounding is done at a pretty low speed compared to the latter steps...

wakescene
05-01-2007, 05:42 PM
beatle78, true it is. a little fact I learned on this board too! speed has a lot to do with the over all finish. keep the pads moist and constantly moving. and don't forget to wear your eye protection...(a glob of wax in the eye never feels good! LOL)

pilot02
05-01-2007, 05:50 PM
This is the one I have, and if I were shopping, I'd get it again or the milwaukee.http://www.1car-detailing-training.com/catalog/images/DW849.jpg

I've got the DeWalt as well. Excellent product and although they are pricey, I picked mine up like new in the box at a pawn shop a few years back for less than a hundred bucks.

beatle78
05-01-2007, 09:50 PM
hmmm... I need to call a pawn shop... my cousin gets all his tools there....

etakk7
05-16-2007, 12:15 PM
beatle, I bought a Makita for $175 a few years back for use on cars. I have seen the one at Harbor Freight and I woud buy that one without question if I was a first timer or only wanted to do a one or two time job.

You only want a wool pad for the compounding "cutting" process. When you get up to the swirl remover and polish/wax, use a foam pad. I generally keep the rpm's lower for the cutting (2000 or so), and maybe 3000 or so for the foam pad.

beatle78
05-16-2007, 02:09 PM
ok thanks etakk

beatle78
05-16-2007, 02:14 PM
etakk,

which one would you recommend?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90820

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92623


Are there any special features I need to look for?
I'm still looking at the pawn shops

etakk7
05-16-2007, 03:26 PM
I think you'd be fine with either, although I'd go with the 92623 for the following reasons:

-it doesn't appear to have an LCD readout, which seems to me would be prone to breaking in a cheap unit!

-it's got a better setup for your hands (similar to the Makita).

-higher RPM range

-hook and loop backing pad is more likely to be compatible with the foam and wool pads from 3M, etc


Either one would do the job, no question.

etakk7
05-16-2007, 03:28 PM
the one I have is the Makita 9227. If I had known about the Harbor Freight ones at the time, I would have gone that direction. Mine is purely for occasional use.

beatle78
05-17-2007, 11:36 AM
thanks!!!!!.....

beatle78
05-25-2007, 12:17 PM
I just bought this buffer this morning. It rang up at $39.99 even though the shelf said $49.99. BONUS!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92623

It's a new store so maybe they were offering a special.

It came with some synthetic wool pads for compounding and a foam pad for the polish. I just need another one for the waxing....

Kummer
05-25-2007, 12:30 PM
Keep us posted with pictures on the process. I have the buffer but have not gone through the process so I will be excieted to learn how it goes.

beatle78
05-25-2007, 03:12 PM
I will take some pics and post some lessons learned....

beatle78
05-27-2007, 11:55 PM
Hey Kummer,

Rotary buffer worked AWESOME!!

Before:

beatle78
05-27-2007, 11:56 PM
After awhile the compound pad dtarted to get clogged, so I swapped it out for a new one. (I'm too lazy to "clean" it like the direction suggest. Who has time for that?
AFTER:

beatle78
05-28-2007, 12:00 AM
Lessons Learned:

The oxidation between the letters was BAD. I tried to hit some of it with the buffer, but it would have done too much damage to the letters. I hit in between them a bit with a hand applicator, but not much as all.

I compounded some parts of the transom twice. Then the direction said to wash before polishing. Well I washed and I saw some spots that still seemed oxidized. I was fed up so I moved to the terry cloth on the buffer with polish. HOLY COW! The polish brought out such a shine that I did the green portion of the entire boat!! All those spots that I thought will still oxidized went away. Then I did the entire hull with wax and I'm done!!!

Hoosier Bob
05-28-2007, 12:01 PM
Hey Beatle,

You can buy a set of spurs to clean the pad without washing. In the old days I would lock speed on, hang upside down on my hip and clean using a screwdriver blade. This burns the pad up quicker but cleans none the less. The spurs clean very well and are safer on the pads. Pick one up and forget about cleaning. You can re-use for compound over and over without cleaning as long as you use the spurs between sections! No cleaning needed for the compound pad. Do not reuse pad for wax or light polish. The spurs will also keep you pad in exc condition. Use it on you wax pad and polish pad.

HB

PS Mine are much older and made of metal. This picture must be of the new and improved variety! These are for the wool pads not the Dupont Foam pads! You use a small nylon brush for those. When hanging the buffer on your hip WATCH THE CORD! You only need to catch it once to figuer that one out. Do not loop your cords to keep from disconnecting either. There may come a time you will want them to come disconnected.

beatle78
05-28-2007, 02:13 PM
Thanks HoosierBob! That's good to know. I'll probably buy some good wool pads for next time.... hopefully that won't be for awhile :)

This time I just used the cheap synthetic wool pads that came with the buffer.

Where can I buy that spur tool?

beatle78
05-28-2007, 02:14 PM
Another lesson learned.

I waxed the boat by hand, application and removal. Maybe I had the buffer going to fast, but the wax was coming off when I was trying to apply it.... waxing by hand actually went pretty fast...

TMCNo1
05-28-2007, 03:03 PM
Another lesson learned.

I waxed the boat by hand, application and removal. Maybe I had the buffer going to fast, but the wax was coming off when I was trying to apply it.... waxing by hand actually went pretty fast...

Buffeing pad with wax on it, against fiberglass = friction and friction generates heat and heat drys wax and...............................:D

atlfootr
05-28-2007, 03:27 PM
And a good site to see which pad you want to use...Buffer pads click here (http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/marine/node_GS4MRNDDGTbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GS4JK4Y166ge/gvel_9NQK7NZ8TZgl/theme_us_marine_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html)I was not aware they sold to the general public ...

TMCNo1
05-28-2007, 05:32 PM
I was not aware they sold to the general public ...


Get part numbers, and anyone who sells 3M products, also has a catalogue that can buy from 3M and can sell to you! Ace Hardware can even get stuff, not just auto paint supply wholesalers or retailers.

atlfootr
05-28-2007, 05:35 PM
:cool: I'll look into that, right after I finish the baseboards.:)

beatle78
05-28-2007, 08:08 PM
hmmm..... TMCNo1.... soooo If I put wax on the pad and run the buffer on the gelcoat, I'm actually waxing, drying, and removing the haze all in 1 shot?

TMCNo1
05-28-2007, 08:56 PM
hmmm..... TMCNo1.... soooo If I put wax on the pad and run the buffer on the gelcoat, I'm actually waxing, drying, and removing the haze all in 1 shot?


If it works for you, go for it!:D

Workin' 4 Toys
05-29-2007, 12:57 AM
I was not aware they sold to the general public ...
Sorry if they don't..........:o

Workin' 4 Toys
05-29-2007, 01:00 AM
Hey Beatle,

You can buy a set of spurs to clean the pad without washing. In the old days I would lock speed on, hang upside down on my hip and clean using a screwdriver blade.
This method still works these days....;)

etakk7
05-29-2007, 01:20 AM
This method still works these days....;)

my method as well

Kummer
06-05-2007, 11:48 AM
Nice Work! looks great. This makes me want to give the old X2 a shine. I have the dewalt buffer but dont have the foam pads. I have to figure out what will work with it.

beatle78
06-05-2007, 12:29 PM
I used a cheap synthetic wool pad for the compound, then a cheap terry cloth pad for the polish, then I waxed by hand with a #M foam hand applicator......

Update, when you look closely at the lettering on the back of the boat, the oxidation between the letters came back out pretty quickly, but the back of the boat still looks great!