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View Full Version : Trailer Bounce - Is There a Definitive Fix?


blacter
04-23-2007, 02:25 PM
I'm going to be shuttling an empty trailer quite a bit this summer for my 2004 X10. I've searched through all the threads that dealt with the empty trailer bounce issue and still don't have a good idea of how to deal with this problem.

Has anyone tried the fix recommended by "Mark" at M/C that involved an O-ring in the brake line (Part number 650680)? Is there a way to install a switch in the wiring to disable the trailer brakes when it's not carrying a boat?

Thanks, in advance, for the help.

...Barry

dmayer84
04-23-2007, 02:38 PM
I'm sure that if you want to get creative you could put a switch on the trailer that will move the power over to the brake lights so that when you step on the brakes it effectively disables them, just like when you are backing up.

Mag_Red
04-23-2007, 02:50 PM
I'm sure that if you want to get creative you could put a switch on the trailer that will move the power over to the brake lights so that when you step on the brakes it effectively disables them, just like when you are backing up.The problem is, when empty, is the trailer keeps surging forward against the ball activating the brakes. Those disc brakes really grab when this happens, and the trailer will violently shake your tow vehicle. I hooked up a seperate power lead to the back up light lead on the trailer ( this is what tells your trailer selenoid to active, effectively cutting off the brake line so no fluid will flow and activate the calipers. My only problem is I now need to hit a switch, inside the cab of my truck when ever I need to back up the trailer. Really much better than the alternative. Hope this helps:wavey:

dmayer84
04-23-2007, 02:53 PM
The problem is, when empty, is the trailer keeps surging forward against the ball activating the brakes. Those disc brakes really grab when this happens, and the trailer will violently shake your tow vehicle. I hooked up a seperate power lead to the back up light lead on the trailer ( this is what tells your trailer selenoid to active, effectively cutting off the brake line so no fluid will flow and activate the calipers. My only problem is I now need to hit a switch, inside the cab of my truck when ever I need to back up the trailer. Really much better than the alternative. Hope this helps:wavey:

Basically what I was trying to descibe, just not too good with all those words.:worthy:

TMCNo1
04-23-2007, 02:54 PM
The brakes are locking up, because there is no weight on the trailer to hold it on the ground, very very easy on the brakes when stopping and it will go away. Try it!

Mag_Red
04-23-2007, 02:55 PM
Basically what I was trying to descibe, just not too good with all those words.:worthy: Usually I won't type that much............I leave that to UMP......he's much more verbose than I......but the damned brakes on these trailers really piss me off:mad: Never had a trailer I couldn't comfortably drag empty.

Mag_Red
04-23-2007, 02:57 PM
The brakes are locking up, because there is no weight on the trailer to hold it on the ground, very very easy on the brakes when stopping and it will go away. Try it!Stick to your teak instructions8p

Sodar
04-23-2007, 03:05 PM
I know that the UFP Actuators are different than the new ones, but is their a manual lockout piece like this:

http://www.dhmtrailers.com/online/product_image.php?imageid=930


Here is the diagram of where it goes and what it does:

http://www.dhmtrailers.com/online/product_image.php?imageid=1035

TMCNo1
04-23-2007, 04:03 PM
Stick to your teak instructions8p

I towed a empty trailer around West Palm Beach, FL for a week for the UNC Ski Team and I learned how to deal with it and it wasn't a problem.:twocents:

Mag_Red
04-23-2007, 04:04 PM
I towed a empty trailer around West Palm Beach, FL for a week for the UNC Ski Team and I learned how to deal with it and it wasn't a problem.:twocents:was it one of the newer ones??? 2004 or up??

nuckinfutz
04-23-2007, 04:09 PM
Bags of concrete and bunge cords! :popcorn:

TMCNo1
04-23-2007, 04:23 PM
was it one of the newer ones??? 2004 or up??


Sorry, it was drum brakes, by UFP, but they performed just like discs w/o the boat on the trailer. At 50 MPH, I could hit the brakes and it would slide, squall and bounce like it had explosives in the tires, till I started braking early and gently and it stopped.
I could really have fun with panhandlers at intersections, they would jump up off their milk crates and start running thinking the trailer was going to attack them. Very much like pulling the emergency brake handle up real quick on a Front Wheel Drive car and dragging the rear tires. I sure hope they begged enough money to buy new underwear!

Leroy
04-23-2007, 04:51 PM
Can't you just fasten a lock-out in the lock out hole?

TMCNo1
04-23-2007, 04:56 PM
Can't you just fasten a lock-out in the lock out hole?


Someone previously stated that and posted a link to the clip, but it's probably too simple!
They could probably duct tape it on for a short period of time to keep it in the slot.

Sodar
04-23-2007, 05:09 PM
Someone previously stated that and posted a link to the clip, but it's probably too simple!


Last time I post something of any type of value... JEESH!!! :D

Mag_Red
04-23-2007, 05:31 PM
Sorry, it was drum brakes, by UFP, but they performed just like discs w/o the boat on the trailer. At 50 MPH, I could hit the brakes and it would slide, squall and bounce like it had explosives in the tires, till I started braking early and gently and it stopped.
I could really have fun with panhandlers at intersections, they would jump up off their milk crates and start running thinking the trailer was going to attack them. Very much like pulling the emergency brake handle up real quick on a Front Wheel Drive car and dragging the rear tires. I sure hope they begged enough money to buy new underwear!Harold, you need to pull one of these new fangled trailer empty.........and if you're real adventurous.....go down hill once with it:D Mine will buck like a wild bronco with it's balls in a vise at any speed. Quite embarrassing when you are going down the ramp to fetch your boat:o

dsoby
04-23-2007, 06:09 PM
Not sure if you have the same trailer as mine (02) or if anyone has mentioned this, but.... I reverse the flat electrical plug and tow with the headlights on. This has the effect of tricking the trailer into thinking that you are backing and disables the brakes.

TMCNo1
04-23-2007, 06:51 PM
Not sure if you have the same trailer as mine (02) or if anyone has mentioned this, but.... I reverse the flat electrical plug and tow with the headlights on. This has the effect of tricking the trailer into thinking that you are backing and disables the brakes.


We Have a Winner!!!!!!!!!!!

YOU JUST WON A FREE PULL @ CSM, WOULD YOU LIKE TO TRY FOR 2?

Leroy
04-23-2007, 07:14 PM
So you are good with duct tape Cameron? :D

Last time I post something of any type of value... JEESH!!! :D

blacter
04-24-2007, 02:54 PM
Not sure if you have the same trailer as mine (02) or if anyone has mentioned this, but.... I reverse the flat electrical plug and tow with the headlights on. This has the effect of tricking the trailer into thinking that you are backing and disables the brakes.

Does this trick affect the turn signals (so right is left etc.)?

dmayer84
04-24-2007, 02:58 PM
Does this trick affect the turn signals (so right is left etc.)?

It would affect the turn signals, but I know that here in NJ if you can see the tail lights on the vehicle, the trailer does not need them.

boatwake
04-25-2007, 08:41 PM
I have complained about this SAFETY issue for well over a year now. I am amazed that MasterCraft has not stepped up to at least warn their customers of this hazard. I've been a loyal MasterCraft owner for over fifteen years and respect all the great things MasterCraft has done for its customers. Hopefully they are working on something to address this operational hazard as well. I have thought about flipping the plug, but until MasterCraft recommends a fix or work around I will continue to use the product as they have instructed (insurance companies are very clear about that).

AndyGJ
06-04-2007, 11:13 PM
I have the same problem with my 2002 Prostar 205V trailer. My Dad who has towed boats for 45 years refuses to move my trailer unloaded because of this problem. Even slowly stopping, it is a major problem as my trailer can bounce 2" to 4" off the ground when the brakes activate and trailer is unloaded.

Is the lockout plug available to order?

AndyGJ
06-08-2007, 10:54 PM
For all interested, I looked up DHM Trailers in CA and tried to order one of the lockout plugs directly online. The system would not let the order go through for the $3.70 part. I called the company today and spoke to the parts manager for DHM. He said that you can order the part from the internet or over the phone, but any order has a minimum of $15.00, so you will need to order 4 of them. He told me that the part is not designed to stay in while towing since it is illegal in many states to disable the brakes. To keep the part in place you will have to tape it up in place and hope it holds. He suggested that I get a large C clamp and file the edges to match their part and tighten the clamp in place to lockout the brakes safely without the possibility of the lockout failing. I did call my Mastercraft Dealer and described this part - they have them in stock and mailed one to me today to use. Hope that helps someone else!! This trailer issue is the pits!

stevenm2
06-10-2007, 08:19 AM
The trailer brakes are the most annoying thing about my 04 x30. I think an alternative besides "clamping" a "piece" on and hoping it holds just does'nt work for me. The thought of duct tape is even worse.

kyfooter
06-10-2007, 10:09 AM
I too had that issue with my brakes locking up without the boat on it. My fix was simple. I added one more male/female connection from an old light hookup. I spliced one end to the blue wire that locks out the trailer brakes (on the trailer itself, it's the blue that runs near the master cylinder), and I connected the other end to the power on my truck connection. When I don't want the brakes to activate, I plug these two "spare" wires together and turn on my truck lights. This sends power to the brake lockout and stops them from engaging. You will actually hear the cylinder lock-out.

I usually do this as soon as I launch my boat, that way if I have to tow the trailer any small distance even at a ramp, I won't have the pleasant sounds of the trailer bouncing like I just went off-roading.

My fix wasn't fancy, but it works and it didn't cost me anything since I had to switch from a 4-prong to 5-prong when I got the new boat.

jscheule
06-12-2007, 07:36 PM
get the manual lockout that SodarSki is showing you, it is cheap and will help you a bunch.