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View Full Version : 2004 X2 stereo electrical problems


cmillertulsax2
04-21-2007, 07:52 PM
Hello everyone - My first post, but I have been reading your helpful comments the past few weeks.

My problem: I purchased a 2004 X2 last week. The boat is in great shape with 150 hrs. The Clarion stereo consisted of 4 interior clarion speakers with seperate tweeters, 2 clarion tower speakers, a Clarion 200.2 amp and no sub. I purchased a rockford 550.2 sub and a 10" sub with a Qlogic sub box. I also purchased a rockford 2 amp installation kit. I installed a new line to the battery and ran it to the 2 fuse splitter that came with the installion kit. The kit also came with a ground system that uses a splitter. The Clarion amp was connected to the battery prior to this, but now it is hooke up on one side of the fuse splitter and this amp is powering my sub. The rockford amp is powering all 6 boat speakers. Everything went very smoothly and the system was working very nicely as I was on the lake. Very loud and clear. Then, when I was sitting in the drivers seat, I switched the tower light toggle on (I don't have tower lights, I was just messing around) and the fuse to the rockford anp blew in the splitter. I only have one battery, but I kept the engine running when I was playing the music loud. When I turned the tower light switch off, I think the bulb behind the toggle was on and was starting to smoke. So I switched it on and off and left it off and it appears to be not smoking anymore. But when I replaced the amp fuse (5ag30a) the stereo sounds very staticy (sp) and doesn't sound good unless I crank the volume. No idea what is going on here.

Can I go to all 6 speakers from this amp without causing problems? The Clarions are 4 ohm speakers. Would this potentially cause a heat problem somwhere?

The sub amp and speaker were not affected.

I've only had the boat a short time and do not know of potential problems.

Why would the tower light switch have this affect? I tried disconnecting all wires leading to the tower on both sides of the tower, but this did not change the current problem.

Any help would be great!

Chris

JBaker
04-24-2007, 01:08 PM
You cannot power 6 speakers with the 550.2 (unless you got creative and started wiring in series which I wouldn't recommend.) You need another 2 channel or mono amp, or replace one of your 2-channels with a 4.

Which fuse blew? One on the amp itself or did you run a 30A fuse as the inline or at the fuse block? If you did, you have also seriously underfused your system, which probably means you ran too small of power wire. You should have an 80A fuse inline and at the fuse block and if you had to run the power wire over 7.5' then you should have 2 gauge, otherwise 4.

You are really overworking that fosgate amp right now. It is seeing a load below its rated impedance, and possibly while not having sizable enough power and ground. That is like asking it to run a marathon at a sprinter's pace while breathing through a straw. You will cause your amp to run hotter, possibly enter thermal protection (or blow fuses) and surely shorten its life.

cmillertulsax2
04-25-2007, 11:13 AM
Thanks for your help. After posting my message, I read alot more about amps and speakers and decided that I was pretty much a complete idiot by hooking all 6 speakers up to a 2 channel amp. I guess the upside would have been if somehow something exploded and killed me, I may have won a Darwin award! Anyway, going back this weekend with a 2 channel amp for the towers (only 2 tower speakers!), a 4 channel amp for the interior boat speakers (only 4 boat speakers!) and a mono amp for the sub (only 1 sub!). I am also going to try to install the two battery setup per Diesel's instructions. If you hear a loud bang and see sparks on Friday, you know who and what it was all about.

I do have one more question, and by now all of you know it will not be a tremendous thought provoker, Since I do not have tower lights, if you push the tower light switch on, is the switch suppose to overheat like mine does? I'm not real fond of the tower light switch location being next to the ballast switch...