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Rich_G
04-20-2007, 04:47 PM
I am wiring up my newly installed ballast system, and using the Accessory switch panel (left of steering wheel) for my new switches - 3 ON/OFF/ON switches. I am using the existing (factory installed) Positive / Negative leads to the switches. I had 5 of the 6 pumps working.

I must have crossed some wires because I shorted out the whole switch panel. Now even the horn won't work. All my other electrical stuff works; lights, blower, bilge pump.

Where do start to track this down? Breakers, fuses, etc. thanks for any help

nuckinfutz
04-20-2007, 05:17 PM
look for a breaker thats out on your panel. I dont know what boat you have, on my X-Star, the panel is under the driver area (about where your right knee would hit)

Hope it helps,
Jason

Rich_G
04-20-2007, 05:51 PM
My boat is a 99 205V that is new to me. The boat didn't come with a manual.

There are some little rubber covered buttons under the dash to the right of the steering column; labeled for differenct elec functions; including Accec 1, Acces 2, Access 3; I have punched the buttons but they don't seem to trip anything.

I need to find and check the fuse panel.

Rich_G
04-20-2007, 06:24 PM
here is the only panel I can find. ACCY 1,2,3, and Horn are the ones I need to reset. I have no clue how to reset them. I have pressed the buttons.

Rich_G
04-20-2007, 08:25 PM
the 20 Amp Accy Fuse on the Pos. battery terminal was fried. I didn't even know that thing existed; never noticed it.

I'm still curious about that reset panel. There don't seem to be any buttons under the button covers.

X-5 Driver
05-07-2009, 02:34 PM
I am trying to wire a lightbar up to Accessory 1 and have no clue what goes to what in the back. It has 2 posts coming off of every switch. Does anyone know what goes where?

Sodar
05-07-2009, 02:46 PM
This might help a little... might not!

http://forums.wakeboarder.com/viewtopic.php?t=7670&highlight=ballast%2Bsystems

jbanczak
05-07-2009, 06:37 PM
the 20 Amp Accy Fuse on the Pos. battery terminal was fried. I didn't even know that thing existed; never noticed it.

I'm still curious about that reset panel. There don't seem to be any buttons under the button covers.

I have similar buttons on my 230, and installed a ballast system to mimic yours Rich. It is not 100% working yet - but should be this weekend now that the last piece of the puzzle was unlocked.

I opened up those buttons - and from what I could tell, they are breakers. Mine seem to pop out when blown - and click back in to reset. I thought at first they were actual fuses, but that does not seem to be the case.

bainez23
05-07-2009, 07:13 PM
I am trying to wire a lightbar up to Accessory 1 and have no clue what goes to what in the back. It has 2 posts coming off of every switch. Does anyone know what goes where?

let me know x-5 when you figure that out because i am going to do the same install soon

JimN
05-07-2009, 08:03 PM
I am wiring up my newly installed ballast system, and using the Accessory switch panel (left of steering wheel) for my new switches - 3 ON/OFF/ON switches. I am using the existing (factory installed) Positive / Negative leads to the switches. I had 5 of the 6 pumps working.

I must have crossed some wires because I shorted out the whole switch panel. Now even the horn won't work. All my other electrical stuff works; lights, blower, bilge pump.

Where do start to track this down? Breakers, fuses, etc. thanks for any help

You're only switching positive, not negative. The circuit starts at the battery, feeds the dash fuse, goes to the switch, then to the device powered through the switch and the device's negative goes to ground. The only reason a switch usually has any kind of a ground wire is if it also has some kind of light.

If your devices exceed teh current capacity of the switch, go to a car stereo shop and buy a Bosch-style relay. You can use the positive output from the switch to latch the relay and find an adequate source for the voltage. DO NOT share a circuit that's already in use, one for the gauges or the motor. Add the total of the breakers and find the wire size that feeds the dash wiring. If your pumps are in the 10A-15A range, you may be better off running a new feed for accessories, to the dash, with a separate ground wire. Also, if you do this, remember that the fuse should be located no more than 12" from the positive battery terminal- if this is omitted or it's farther from the terminal, it doesn't take much to cause a fire.

JimN
05-07-2009, 08:04 PM
let me know x-5 when you figure that out because i am going to do the same install soon

Two posts- one for in and one for out. As I posted, you're only switching the positive.

X-5 Driver
05-07-2009, 08:54 PM
Two posts- one for in and one for out. As I posted, you're only switching the positive.

So, as you look at the rear of the breaker panel, there are 2 posts. Are you saying I need to hook the positive wire for the lightbar to one of those (which one?) and then ground it somewhere else?

jbanczak
05-07-2009, 09:30 PM
So, as you look at the rear of the breaker panel, there are 2 posts. Are you saying I need to hook the positive wire for the lightbar to one of those (which one?) and then ground it somewhere else?

This sounds like a different panel than what Rich_G has. If you are using ACC 1 - there must be other switches that are already wired. You should be able to tell which post is positive, and which is negative just by looking at them.

Meaning a black is typically negative/red positive. Typically with ACC switches - there is already a wire right there for the negative, and perhaps the positive as well.

You can either ground the lights to whatever everything else is grounded to, or if you have the wires for the lights both coming to the panel, buy a little F-connector that allows two wires to be connected to the ground on the switch - you ground your switch and lights at the same time.

JimN
05-07-2009, 11:25 PM
There's usually a metal strip with all of the grounds on it, connected to the battery negative with a heavier black wire. The strip is called a buss and serves as a common grounding point for any accessories that can use it without problems (anything but the head unit in an elaborate stereo system). Lights and small motors don't have a problem with slight grounding issues the way a stereo does.

Unless the switch has the in and out marked, it doesn't matter which is connected to the supply and which is connected to the load. A switch and fuse are in series with the load, never parallel. The loads can be connected parallel to each other but the load from each must be added to any others in the circuit.

If you're adding a lot of accessories, it's best to add a completely new circuit, with a positive, negative, fuse and if necessary, a distribution block or buss for each polarity.