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View Full Version : Replacing Ballast Impellers


prostar205
04-05-2007, 12:57 PM
I will soon be replacing the stock black impellers on my three ballast pumps to the yellow ones I got from MYMC (thanks again for the help).

I have never replaced the stock ones since I bought the boat in 2005. I think they were replaced when I got the boat. Anyway, are there any tricks in need to know when replacing these? I have replaced the raw water pump impeller on the engine several times. It appears that there just is not that much room to work behind the motor. What may make it hard for me is that my X30 has the L-18 shoe-horned into the engine compartment, making it even harder to get there. Should I take the pumps out of the boat or can I do this job with the pumps installed?

Let me know your thoughts.

TX.X-30 fan
04-05-2007, 01:22 PM
I have just replaced 2 of mine and it took only a few minutes. The starboard pump in installed upside down too close to the hull to get a screwdriver on or get the impellar out for that matter. So I decided to remove the pump, wait not so easy cant get to those screws either. So remove the carpeted back cover, nope wont come out without removing the ballast tank itself :mad: . I decided to attack that last one another time.

Why would they install it upside down. A few more inches of hose is all they needed to do it right side up.:mad: I will add longer hose when I change that last pump impellar.

ps mine is the mpx.

FlatBoard
04-05-2007, 02:13 PM
How often should they be replaced? I can't find any info in the manual.

prostar205
04-05-2007, 02:17 PM
I think a good general rule of thumb is once a year in the spring. I am doing it to upgrade to the new yellow impellers.

FlatBoard
04-05-2007, 02:22 PM
Copy that. I need to change the raw water pump impellar, better check those ballast pumps!!

vogelm1
04-05-2007, 03:41 PM
Need to be a little cautious when tightening down the impeller cover....those three screws just need to be snug, not super tight or they may snap off - think they are brass IIRC.

Harvey
04-05-2007, 03:45 PM
They are not difficult to change at all. I would only replace them when the flow decreases. And keep a spare on the boat.

prostar205
04-06-2007, 01:08 PM
The starboard pump in installed upside down too close to the hull to get a screwdriver on or get the impellar out for that matter. So I decided to remove the pump, wait not so easy cant get to those screws either. So remove the carpeted back cover, nope wont come out without removing the ballast tank itself :mad: . I decided to attack that last one another time.

Why would they install it upside down. A few more inches of hose is all they needed to do it right side up.:mad: I will add longer hose when I change that last pump impellar.

ps mine is the mpx.

Your are right, they are pretty easy to replace. The only one I had an issue with was the starboard pump because it is installed upside down. However, I was able to get to the 4 screws that hold it to the boat relatively easily.

I was thinking about turning it right side up but have the following concerns?

1) the toggle switch for that pump would have to be flipped because once you flip the orientation of the pump, the inlet and outlet will have to be flipped as well. If you don't re-wire the switch, then everything would be backwards (fill would be empty and vica versa).

2) I noticed that the hose coming off from the manifold to the inlet of the pump was 1" diameter, however, the hose going from the outlet of the pump to the ballast sac was only 3/4". Why wouldn't you have a 1" outlet and therefore be able to flow more water and fill more quickly? Maybe MYMC will come along and answer this question.

3) Since I removed the hard tanks from the rear of my X30 and replaced them with the BI Fat Sac (750 lbs on each side of the engine), it takes forever to fill the sacs. I was wondering if I changed the outlet line to 1" diameter and filled from the top of bag and emptied from the bottom of the bag, if that would work. I would have to put a "Y" in the outlet line with one-way valves on the fill and empty. Anyone thought about doing this?

prostar205
04-07-2007, 09:33 PM
Bump

Bump

Bump

prostar205
04-11-2007, 06:51 PM
I was thinking about turning it right side up but have the following concerns?

1) the toggle switch for that pump would have to be flipped because once you flip the orientation of the pump, the inlet and outlet will have to be flipped as well. If you don't re-wire the switch, then everything would be backwards (fill would be empty and vica versa).

2) I noticed that the hose coming off from the manifold to the inlet of the pump was 1" diameter, however, the hose going from the outlet of the pump to the ballast sac was only 3/4". Why wouldn't you have a 1" outlet and therefore be able to flow more water and fill more quickly? Maybe MYMC will come along and answer this question.

3) Since I removed the hard tanks from the rear of my X30 and replaced them with the BI Fat Sac (750 lbs on each side of the engine), it takes forever to fill the sacs. I was wondering if I changed the outlet line to 1" diameter and filled from the top of bag and emptied from the bottom of the bag, if that would work. I would have to put a "Y" in the outlet line with one-way valves on the fill and empty. Anyone thought about doing this?


BUMP
BUMP
BUMP

Blair
04-11-2007, 07:04 PM
what are these "yellow" impellers you speak of? what are the benifits?

prostar205
04-11-2007, 07:43 PM
The "yellow" impellers are the new versions that came out about 9-12 months ago. They supposedly reverse easier and are made from a different material that lasts longer. Along with installing the new "yellow" impellers, I polished the underside of the ballast pump impeller lids thinking that a smoother surface would also help in reversing the pumps and possibly making them run better and not get bind-up.

treptowr
04-12-2007, 10:01 AM
The way I look at it, the pump that people claim to be upside down is actually the one that is installed correctly. I pulled both the pumps from my 02 X-star in back. For the starboard one, that had the impellar facing down, the electric motor was in excellent condition. The port one with the impeller on the top was completely rusted and corroded inside. The bearing was froze up. Probably because with the water coming across the impeller on top, any water leakage finds it's way down into the motor. I'm trying to order a couple new seals from Jabsco and will try to pick up a new bearing for each pump. Shouldn't be too hard to replace. As far as changing the inflow to outflow, you can remove the two brass screws that hold the impeller to the motor and turn it 180 degrees. It says right in the instruction manual that you can do this. Also, I don't see any reason why you couldn't change the tubing to one inch on the side going to the ballast bags? I just received a new water puppy in the mail and there isn't the reducer fitting on one side like there is in the pumps installed in my boat. I wonder if Mastercraft does that for some reason? Maybe by going from one inch to 3/4 inch it increases the pressure so it's easier to fill the stock hard tanks from the bottom up? You said you have sacks filling from the top and planning on putting a Y in the line so you can drain from the bottom so that shouldn't be an issue? When I put my pumps back in though, I think I'm going to put both in with the impeller facing down. I only have to remove the rear access panels and four mounting bolts on the pumps to change my impellers. Would rather protect the electric motor by having it above the impeller.

TX.X-30 fan
04-12-2007, 10:14 AM
Bump

Bump

Bump


Sorry I cant help with your question. I was wondering, did you lose all the storage with those soft sac's.

prostar205
04-12-2007, 12:35 PM
Sorry I cant help with your question. I was wondering, did you lose all the storage with those soft sac's.

No, in fact I gained a TON of storage. When I am not using them, I just take them out. I put the quick disconnector connectors on all the lines. It takes about :30 seconds to remove both bags. Even when I keep them in but have not water in them, I still have alot more room. Those tanks are a joke. They only hold 175 lbs of water on each side. It really is not enough weight to do much to the wake, in my opinion. The down side of the sacs is that they take alot longer to fill since their capacity is over 4X that of the hard tanks.

I am toying around with changing the outlet line diameter to 1" (same as the inlet for each pump) to see if that will get me higher flow and fill the bags up quicker.

TX.X-30 fan
04-12-2007, 07:06 PM
No, in fact I gained a TON of storage. When I am not using them, I just take them out. I put the quick disconnector connectors on all the lines. It takes about :30 seconds to remove both bags. Even when I keep them in but have not water in them, I still have alot more room. Those tanks are a joke. They only hold 175 lbs of water on each side. It really is not enough weight to do much to the wake, in my opinion. The down side of the sacs is that they take alot longer to fill since their capacity is over 4X that of the hard tanks.

I am toying around with changing the outlet line diameter to 1" (same as the inlet for each pump) to see if that will get me higher flow and fill the bags up quicker.



Thanks 205 I didn't know the capacity of those giant boxes back there. Sounds like a new project for me, is there carpet back behind those tanks. Not a big deal either way. I guess that's why those screws holding the pump were easier to access :rolleyes: . I can imagine their would be much more room with those hard tanks out, I'm not a big man(180lb) but i feel like shamu in a sardine can when I crawl in there.:D

prostar205
04-12-2007, 07:15 PM
Thanks 205 I didn't know the capacity of those giant boxes back there. Sounds like a new project for me, is there carpet back behind those tanks. Not a big deal either way. I guess that's why those screws holding the pump were easier to access :rolleyes: . I can imagine their would be much more room with those hard tanks out, I'm not a big man(180lb) but i feel like shamu in a sardine can when I crawl in there.:D

TX.X-30 fan:

Yes, the entire area is carpeted. When you remove the tanks, the only thing that tells anyone the tank was in there are the small screw holes left. Yes, the tanks out of there and after removing the rear carpeted walls, the ballast pumps are pretty easy to get to. I, too, am not a really big guy - 6'2" and 195-200 lbs. I hit with room to spare. While you're at it, you might as well change the outlet hoses from 3/4" to 1" to increase the flow. MYMC told me MC did not change them until 2005 boats, so your 2004 and my 2002 have 3/4" outlet hoses from the pumps to the tanks.

TX.X-30 fan
04-12-2007, 07:51 PM
TX.X-30 fan:

Yes, the entire area is carpeted. When you remove the tanks, the only thing that tells anyone the tank was in there are the small screw holes left. Yes, the tanks out of there and after removing the rear carpeted walls, the ballast pumps are pretty easy to get to. I, too, am not a really big guy - 6'2" and 195-200 lbs. I hit with room to spare. While you're at it, you might as well change the outlet hoses from 3/4" to 1" to increase the flow. MYMC told me MC did not change them until 2005 boats, so your 2004 and my 2002 have 3/4" outlet hoses from the pumps to the tanks.


Prostar205, thanks again, that is the setup I will change to soon. I read you have BI fat sacs? where do I look for those. With those big bags in the rear do you have a problem wit the boat not wanting to plane at wakeboard speeds? I have added lead shot to the starboard side to level the boat due to the 2 additionl batteries on the port side. I have seen some posts about adding some weight in the bow:confused: have you had to do that yet. When the stock bags are full on our boat its hard to see while sitting down. I fill the center bag just to smooth the boat out while cruising. Have you changed the center ballast bag with a bigger one.

prostar205
04-12-2007, 08:01 PM
Prostar205, thanks again, that is the setup I will change to soon. I read you have BI fat sacs? where do I look for those. With those big bags in the rear do you have a problem wit the boat not wanting to plane at wakeboard speeds? I have added lead shot to the starboard side to level the boat due to the 2 additionl batteries on the port side. I have seen some posts about adding some weight in the bow:confused: have you had to do that yet. When the stock bags are full on our boat its hard to see while sitting down. I fill the center bag just to smooth the boat out while cruising. Have you changed the center ballast bag with a bigger one.

TX.X-30 Fan -

I don't have a problem with hole shot, even with the boat fully loaded with people, gear and ballast (1,900 lbs estimated when completely full) because my boat has the L-18, 8.1L motor. I never have to worry about torque with that thing.

I do have issues with porpoising, both when the ballast if full or empty. I removed and threw away the ski locker bag and replaced it with a custom made ProX bag that I got directly from BI. I think is was just under $200 including shipping. My stock 2002 center ski locker bag kept getting the vent lines full of water and therefore, the bag would never completely fill full of water. Also, I increased its capacity to just under 400 lbs from the stock capacity of 285 lbs. The one in your 2004 boat probably alot better than my stock one was.

I got my Fat Sacs from Adrenaline Watersports. They are local here in the Seattle area.

My next set of plans include adding the 2006 Lenco trim tab to the boat if I can not get the porpoising to go away with the added weight in the bow. I have always been told you want to have about a 40% front / 60% rear wieght balance in the ballast system. If this is correctly, I would need about 760 lbs in the front. I am about 360 lbs short of that right now.