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View Full Version : Shaft Alignment - 205V


binnacle2
04-04-2007, 06:14 PM
This is my first post. We purchased a 2000 205V last summer and have had some issues with it. I have been able to find answers to almost all of my questions here. This site is a fabulous resource! Thanks to all who participate!

One of the things we had to have done was replace the shaft seal on the transmission. Since this involved removing the engine/trans we thought it would be a good idea to check and adjust the shaft alignment when we got it back from the shop.

I've read several posts on this topic including Ken Gibbon's instructions but am still puzzled on some things. After separating the couplers we tried to start with checking to see if the engine was "parallel & co-linear with the strut". Can anyone shed light on how this should be done with a v drive? Do you pull the shaft coupler from side to side from within the boat or do you get underneath and pull the shaft itself side to side with someone else watching the couplers? How do you measure/determine if the shaft coupler moves equal distances laterally/vertically from the transmission coupler? And, does the position of the shaft through the log matter?

The other thing that is confusing is how to set up the coupling faces to check their alignment. On our boat we can't seem to leave any gap between the couplers for measurement. The lock together when you get them close to each other. Do you put something between them to create a gap? If so, how do you hold them in place while measuring at the opposite side? Also, do you turn the couplers together to take the measurements a the 4 locations (12, 3, 6 & 9 o'clock) or measure them without rotating them? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Sodar
04-04-2007, 06:34 PM
A little too technical, for me, but I will throw a little bump your way!

Welcome!!

vogelm1
04-04-2007, 07:01 PM
Binnacle2 - I've got the same issue but only with a direct drive. Need to figure out how to do the "co-linear" business. I've done the feeler gauge part and that is pretty straight forward...leave the bolts/nuts off the coupler and press them together. There should be enough friction from the packing gland to hold everything together.

If you are close to spec, it will appear the flanges mate perfectly - until you begin checking with feeler gauge. You will probably find that you can insert say, a 0.005 feeler on one side, but not on the other. In my case I could get a 0.10 on one side. After adjusting the engine, it was within 0.003 all the way around. Took some patience, but it was well worth it. The drive train was noticeably smoother, and this was on a brand new boat (50 hrs)! Good luck and let me know if you figure the first part of alignment out!

vogelm1
04-04-2007, 07:05 PM
Oh, in searching for info on this topic, there was a fella on here going by StormTriple361 or something like that. Seemed like he was in the know on this. I may PM him and see.

binnacle2
04-04-2007, 11:22 PM
Thanks SodarSki73 & Vogelm1 for your comments. The flanges do seem to mate perfectly when you push them together but we did not try to get a feeler gage between them at more than just one spot. We'll give it another shot this weekend and see what happens.

wesgardner
04-05-2007, 12:17 PM
If the flanges are mating closely, disregard the "course" adjustment of getting things co-linear...they already are! Now deal with the "fine" adjustment with the feeler gauge...don't move anything, just check the 4 points (12, 3, 6, 9) with the feeler gauge...if they're all within spec, you're done, bolt 'er up and go ride/ski...if they're not, you'll need to do the alignment...

vogelm1
04-05-2007, 03:45 PM
Thanks Wesgardner - saw your post on my other thread too. Great that will save us some work only needing to do the feeler gauge part!

binnacle2
04-05-2007, 04:21 PM
Thanks for the info Wes! I don't want to fix any thing that doesn't need fixing. Will give it a try this weekend and post the results.