View Full Version : Maintenance Info

03-28-2007, 08:15 PM
Normally I take my boat in to be serviced once a year. However, this year I am going to rebel against the outragous dealer prices that are charged for fluid changes and do it myself.
With that in mind, I have a couple of easy questions that I hope someone can answer.

I have an 04 X10 with the MCX package.

1) When changing the Transmission oil (15w40), Do you you extract the oil through the fill hole? If so, how much do I replace? How much can I expect to withdrawl? Is there a filter on the Transmission that also needs to be changed?

2) I was told that the replacement engine oil filter for the MCX is a Fram PH8A oil filter. Is this correct? Or is there a better option. I really don't want to drive 60 miles to the dealer to purchase a Mastercraft oil filter for $9.95.

Any feedback would be appreciated...Jim

03-28-2007, 08:20 PM
WHoever told you that a PH-8A is the right filter doesn't know what motor you have. That's a Ford filter, not GM. You can stay with the Pennzoil and change it right at 50 hours or go with an AC PF-52 (I think), a PF-1218 if you can use the longer filter, a NAPA Gold equivalent, Wix equivalent or something like that. There have been a few threads on filters and Fram isn't one of the ones that gets good grades.

If you need to use the short filter, get whatever crosses to a Pennzoil PZ-3.

03-28-2007, 09:33 PM
I have the same engine in almost the same boat. Both transmission and engine oil should be changed with the engine warm, so you'll need to run it a bit to get it up to temp, either in your driveway or at your dock/boat lift. Believe me, changing both is a bugger unless the oil is warm. If you are going to do that on the trailer in your driveway, you'll need some kind of means of getting water to the engine cooling system. Fake-a-Lake won't work because your trailer bunk blocks the intake screen, so you'll need to disconnect the 1 1/4 raw water intake line, which you'll find under the rear center seat/cooler, and fit it with a means of getting hose water into it. I made this for that purpose:


After the engine is warm, best way to change the oil IMHO is to suck it out using a vacuum pump or some similar kind of oil changer such as found here (http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/catalog.cgi?r=browse&aID=24A&cname=Oil-Changers-/-Filters). It's useful to cobble together some kind of brass fitting so you can hook the device up to your engine oil drain hose too. You'll get about 4 quarts out of the transmission.

Oil filter - STAY AWAY FROM FRAM. Stop at NAPA and get a a NAPA Gold 1069, or get a Wix 51069 (same filter) at some other auto parts store. The other ones JimN mentions are good too. Don't use the Pennzoil PZ-3 that MasterCraft/Indmar recommend - it's made by Fram.

As to oil...whatever 15W40 you can find that meets/exceeds API CH-4/SJ. Pennzoil Marine or Pennzoil Diesel, or Shell Rotella T seem to be the most readily available (NAPA usually sells the Rotella T in addition to the 1069 oil filter - WalMart usually sells Pennzoil Marine).