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dmayer84
03-26-2007, 10:42 AM
I spoke to my dealer this weekend, the contact that I had there is no longer there and they said that now they will cover the actuator under warranty but that I would have to pay for labor. I am trying to find out now how much work it will be to replace it myself and which model actuator it will be replaced with and if it comes with a new solenoid.

Also since there was rust in the master cylinder of the old actuator do you think that I should replace the brake lines or they will be ok?

All input is appreciated. Thanks

erkoehler
03-26-2007, 10:44 AM
Do you have an extended warranty, or are they covering this under MC's factory warranty?

dmayer84
03-26-2007, 10:49 AM
They are doing it under the factory warranty out of good faith, trailer is no longer under warranty.

I was told by the member of the staff late October that it would be covered and to bring it in April since they were undergoing construction. Unfortunately he is no longer there.

Ric
03-26-2007, 11:40 AM
I've always said.... The trailer is key to a good day at the lake

Doug G
03-26-2007, 06:45 PM
DM, Who's gone ? I haven't been up in a while...

Sodar
03-26-2007, 06:51 PM
Changing out the actuator is easy... the toughest part is bleading the brake lines after you switch the actuator out. Just buy a pair of clip ring pliers like this and you can have the actuator changed out in 3 minutes....
http://www.pavoniexpress.com/ringpliers.jpg

Ryan
03-26-2007, 07:23 PM
Changing out the actuator is easy... the toughest part is bleading the brake lines after you switch the actuator out. Just buy a pair of clip ring pliers like this and you can have the actuator changed out in 3 minutes....
http://www.pavoniexpress.com/ringpliers.jpg


Second that. If all you have to change is the actuator it's piece of cake. Make sure get a brake fluid hand pump ($20ish @ auto parts store). Using the UFP screwdriver method to pump the actuator is nonsense.

One more slow down is id your roller pins have exbanded or worn off-true then you'll need a sledge hammer to tap them loose.

dmayer84
03-26-2007, 10:26 PM
Doug PM at ya

I got a pair of clip ring pliers, been looking for an excuse for getting pressure bleeder.

Where are the roller pins located, have never worked on trailer brakes before?

Ryan
03-27-2007, 12:45 AM
Where are the roller pins located, have never worked on trailer brakes before?

The roller pins are what the C clips are attached to.

TMCNo1
03-27-2007, 12:23 PM
The roller pins are what the C clips are attached to.


The front pin is the slider and the rear pin is the stationary one that holds the actuator assembly in the tube and allows it to work the master cylinder in and out like a break pedal would. There is 1 clip on each end of the front pin and the rear pin that protrude from the outside of the actuator tube

dmayer84
04-08-2007, 08:28 PM
Well I got the new actuator yesterday. It is the new style that comes on the new trailers, and it came with a new tounge. Since it is just bare metal I have to paint it. Does anyone know where I can get the yellow paint so that it will match the rest of the trailer?

TMCNo1
04-08-2007, 08:40 PM
Well I got the new actuator yesterday. It is the new style that comes on the new trailers, and it came with a new tounge. Since it is just bare metal I have to paint it. Does anyone know where I can get the yellow paint so that it will match the rest of the trailer?


ACE Hardware has "Bondo" Black primer in the spray can and after you sand and clean the metal, prime it, let it dry and wet sand it with 600, clean and apply the Yellow spray you can order from a MC dealer or you may be able to get a Yellow Krylon to match close from ACE hardware.

Mag_Red
04-08-2007, 09:13 PM
I spoke to my dealer this weekend, the contact that I had there is no longer there and they said that now they will cover the actuator under warranty but that I would have to pay for labor. I am trying to find out now how much work it will be to replace it myself and which model actuator it will be replaced with and if it comes with a new solenoid.

Also since there was rust in the master cylinder of the old actuator do you think that I should replace the brake lines or they will be ok?

All input is appreciated. ThanksYou might want to check the entire sysytem.......look at the mess I had. It all started with rust in the master cylinder.http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=12671

dmayer84
04-08-2007, 09:22 PM
You might want to check the entire sysytem.......look at the mess I had. It all started with rust in the master cylinder.http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=12671

I'm going to check the entire system. The brakes are functioning but I get the clunking. Once I have the boat off the trailer it will give me a week or 2 to do all the work. Hopefully I will not have to run new brake lines and such, I am thinking that the pads will be fine, but I dont know as of yet. Luckilly there is a brakes only place in town that we have been going to for years for our cars. I let him know what I'm going to have to do the the trailer. He said he can get any part that I need.

Mag_Red
04-08-2007, 09:27 PM
I'm going to check the entire system. The brakes are functioning but I get the clunking. Once I have the boat off the trailer it will give me a week or 2 to do all the work. Hopefully I will not have to run new brake lines and such, I am thinking that the pads will be fine, but I dont know as of yet. Luckilly there is a brakes only place in town that we have been going to for years for our cars. I let him know what I'm going to have to do the the trailer. He said he can get any part that I need.Good to check it out thoroughly. As you could see, from my thread, the rust was all the way back to the calipers.