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h20winn
03-24-2007, 02:53 PM
Hello. I am having a problem with the pully of the raw impeller pump. I went to change out the impeller to get ready for the spring season and like in the past, I have been taking the whole pump out to get the impeller out easier instead on having the impeller housing in the boat and working it on the boat. My issue is that the impeller pump pully has siezed into the crankshaft pully and will not come out. Is there a specail pully that is made to get that out if in a situation arises like I currently have now? I cannot seem to get the pully to release. Will I have to cut the pully and get a new raw impeller pump?

bigmac
03-24-2007, 03:02 PM
Hello. I am having a problem with the pully of the raw impeller pump. I went to change out the impeller to get ready for the spring season and like in the past, I have been taking the whole pump out to get the impeller out easier instead on having the impeller housing in the boat and working it on the boat. My issue is that the impeller pump pully has siezed into the crankshaft pully and will not come out. Is there a specail pully that is made to get that out if in a situation arises like I currently have now? I cannot seem to get the pully to release. Will I have to cut the pully and get a new raw impeller pump?


I'm not sure what you mean by the "pully of the raw impeller pump". There is no raw water pump pully. It's a Johnson F6B-9 pump and it just bolts to the crankshaft. There's no need to be removing any pullies. Do you mean the flange with the four hex bolts that secures it to the crankshaft pully? Just unbolt the flange, unbolt the pump from the support bracket and pull it off. I'm not sure it wouldn't be easier to remove the silencer, though...if you don't want to hunker down in your right rear storage compartment to change the impeller, I doubt you'd want to do so to pull the pump off. The former is easier than the latter.

Getting the impeller changed isn't easy on a Maristar, but it certainly can be done without pulling the raw water pump. I do it with a vise-grip.

http://mccollister.info/rwpumpvisegrip.jpg

The ultimate solution IMHO is to remove the stupid silencer (brilliant piece of marine engineering, that...) and replace it with some inline mufflers or MasterCraft's baffled exhaust system they're putting on the 2007's.

h20winn
03-24-2007, 04:01 PM
I removed the 3 allen bolts that attach the impeller pump to the crankshaft. That portion that is attached by the allen bolts, is siezed up in the crankshaft pully. I cannot get it out.

bigmac
03-24-2007, 04:27 PM
I removed the 3 allen bolts that attach the impeller pump to the crankshaft. That portion that is attached by the allen bolts, is siezed up in the crankshaft pully. I cannot get it out.Hmmm..are there three, or four bolts that hold it to the crankshaft pully? I can't remember but I was thinking there were four, plus the bolt that holds the pump to the bracket. I can't think of any puller devices that would work in those quarters. My guess is that my dealer would say that you have to pull the silencer to get enough room to work.

Once all the bolts are out, maybe some tap-tap-tapping is in order, but be careful to only hit the flange and not the pump body. Too much torquing force on the pump body can damage the rear pump seal. I guess you could use some PB Blaster, but I'd be worried about getting it on the serpentine belt. If you do get it off, maybe reinstallation with a little Never-Seeze would be a good idea.

h20winn
03-24-2007, 06:04 PM
Thanks Mac for the advise. I will wait to see if anyone else has any ideas or if there is a puller for that module. I was thinking about modifying something like a steering wheel puller but there is really nothing to grasp on to pull that spindle that goes into the crankshaft out. I cannot believe that that siezed up in the crankshaft assembly.

PendO
03-24-2007, 08:44 PM
sure seems like you are going to a lot of trouble to take out the impeller? Am I missing something?

JohnnyB
03-24-2007, 10:07 PM
Thanks Mac for the advise. I will wait to see if anyone else has any ideas or if there is a puller for that module. I was thinking about modifying something like a steering wheel puller but there is really nothing to grasp on to pull that spindle that goes into the crankshaft out. I cannot believe that that siezed up in the crankshaft assembly.

I'm not sure I understand your issue....can you post some pics or a diagram....

h20winn
03-25-2007, 03:37 AM
The component that is attached to the crankshaft area with the three allen bolts does not want to come out of the crankshaft pulley.

Jerseydave
03-25-2007, 09:37 AM
Why not just change-out the impeller and leave the housing alone?

Most people never remove the housing for routine impeller replacement. Sounds like removing the silencer would be easier to gain more access.

The more often you remove the housing, the more likely that rear seal will start leaking, I would think.

JohnnyB
03-25-2007, 10:41 AM
Are you referring to these hex bolts(see white arrows)? If memory serves me correctly, there are four.

If it is these bolts, why do you want to remove the housing??? The cover comes off and you can extract the impeller like in the picture.

If we're all misunderstanding you, post pics and we'll do our best to help.

As others have said, access would be easier by removing the silencer

bigmac
03-25-2007, 11:18 AM
If the silencer were located in a better location -- higher up (or removed altogether) -- it would provide enough clearance that a person could get an impeller puller in there. As it is, the lack of clearance prevents such a puller from being applied, especially because the puller has to be oriented vertically - it bumps the silencer. It would be nice to use a puller because laying on one's side in the right rear compartment does not give good leverage to get the impeller out, and it has to come straight out without binding laterally because the tolerances are tight. I've found that by applying the needle-nose vise grip like this, I can reach OVER the silencer, grap the vise grips and be able to pull straight back.

Even so, I do think that's far easier than removing the whole pump body IMHO. My boat is an '04 230VRS - virtually the exact same boat as H2OWinn's (assuming he has the MCX).

It's kind of maddening because I see no reason that that silencer can't sit two inches higher - all it would require is for the upper exhaust hose to be 2 inches shorter and the lower one to be two inches longer. Again - IMHO a good reason to ditch the silencer altogether.

http://mccollister.info/rwpumpvisegrip.jpg

JohnnyB
03-25-2007, 11:25 AM
It's kind of maddening because I see no reason that that silencer can't sit two inches higher - all it would require is for the upper exhaust hose to be 2 inches shorter and the lower one to be two inches longer. Again - IMHO a good reason to ditch the silencer altogether.

http://mccollister.info/rwpumpvisegrip.jpg

Two observations:

1) The change you suggest sounds pretty easy to do and not very expensive.

2) That silencer looks very similar to the one found on the 91-94 Prostars...."the dinosaur egg" as we've referred to it in the past.

bigmac
03-25-2007, 11:34 AM
Two observations:

1) The change you suggest sounds pretty easy to do and not very expensive.

2) That silencer looks very similar to the one found on the 91-94 Prostars...."the dinosaur egg" as we've referred to it in the past.

It's a cylinder that sits transversely across the rear compartment..very much different than the Prostar version you're talking about, I think.

You're right -- lengthening/shortening the exhaust hoses is certainly possible - I'm just mad that MasterCraft didn't figure out the need for this when they designed their V-drives and decided to put the SilentMaster in that particular location. If I'm going to be buying/cutting/installing exhaust hose, I'm going to get rid of that bulky thing altogether and either switch to inline mufflers, or switch to the MasterCraft baffled exhaust. MYMC suggests that that's maybe a little cheaper for parts, but apparently requires some transom modification and I'm not sure if it's user-friendly for the home boat mechanic

JohnnyB
03-25-2007, 12:14 PM
I don't have pics of it, but the way my engine sits the impeller is right in line with the ski pylon. I can get the impeller puller in there, but it is a PITA. I need shorten the handle on my impeller puller by about an inch to use it correctly with this obstacle.

bigmac
03-25-2007, 12:40 PM
I don't have pics of it, but the way my engine sits the impeller is right in line with the ski pylon. I can get the impeller puller in there, but it is a PITA. I need shorten the handle on my impeller puller by about an inch to use it correctly with this obstacle.Yeh, I'm sympathetic. At least I can remove my silencer permanently if I choose. You probably want to keep your ski pylon...

h20winn
03-28-2007, 01:38 AM
Thanks for all the advise.. the only reason I want to remove the whole raw impeller pump is so that I can get the stuck impeller out. I normally do not have that much trouble removing the impeller in the boat but this time for some reason it is stuck. There are only three allen bolts that are used to bolt the raw water impeller pump to the crankshaft in my boat. It is a MCX motor. I am trying to get the whole pump out but the component that is held on by the three allen bolts is stuck in the crankshaft pulley.

TMCNo1
03-28-2007, 09:35 AM
Thanks for all the advise.. the only reason I want to remove the whole raw impeller pump is so that I can get the stuck impeller out. I normally do not have that much trouble removing the impeller in the boat but this time for some reason it is stuck. There are only three allen bolts that are used to bolt the raw water impeller pump to the crankshaft in my boat. It is a MCX motor. I am trying to get the whole pump out but the component that is held on by the three allen bolts is stuck in the crankshaft pulley.


You may want to try tapping on the housing with a rubber mallet and see if it will break loose, then if it breaks loose, when you reinstall, apply a light coat of grease to the back side of the flange that bolts to the pully so it won't stick again.

bigmac
03-28-2007, 09:59 AM
You may want to try tapping on the housing with a rubber mallet and see if it will break loose, then if it breaks loose, when you reinstall, apply a light coat of grease to the back side of the flange that bolts to the pully so it won't stick again.As I mentioned, the problem with doing anything to the housing is that eccentric torque on it across the pump shaft can damage the pump shaft seal, so be very, very careful with the tapping. Better, IMHO, would be to tap on the flange itself with a piece of dowel rod pressed against it. Swinging a hammer in the bilge of a Maristar ain't easy, though.

bigmac
03-28-2007, 11:41 AM
One thing you might consider trying is to use an air chisel with a blunt tip and apply it to the flange or neck to vibrate the heck out of the thing for a couple of bursts. That would eliminate the swinging hammer thing, the potential damage to the pump body, and the use of slippery liquids close to the serpentine belt. What do you think? I've never done that to my boat, but the concept works pretty well on other types of siezed materials....there may be some galling or corrosion over the flat surface of the flange and a little vibration or tapping may be all it takes to break it loose.