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View Full Version : Tri Star 220 Engine Problem Please help!


cstark22
03-24-2007, 01:37 PM
I have an '87 220 w/big block chevy and it starts fine the first time going out but every time after it takes multiple trys no matter how many pumps of the throttle. every time i try it just does a quick 1 second start/turnover then dies. I have replaced the carb with a new one and no change. Any and all ideas are greatly appreciated.

Leroy
03-24-2007, 07:46 PM
There has to be someone that knows about this?

AirJunky
03-24-2007, 08:03 PM
You don't mention where your at or what conditions your in so I'll make the assumption that it's hot out & the engine is hot when you see this problem.
MC had some issues with hot start problems & have a fuel line insulation kit to get over it. We've had hot start problems on an 88 PS190 with the Ford 351 & on a 94 PS205 with the TBI Chevy 350. Disconnecting the fuel lines & putting this insulation on them solved the hot start problem in both cases. Even though my dealer service dept swore it wouldn't happen on a TBI.... but lets face it, it's just a computer metered carb anyway.
We only saw the problem when it was hot out (over 85 or 90) and the engine was hot. Otherwise both boats ran great. And both boats always started again after cooling down.
Good luck!

cstark22
03-25-2007, 12:15 PM
Thanks for the reply. It happens hot or cold....but at this point, i will try it. what does the insulation prevent?

Leroy
03-25-2007, 12:45 PM
What I have heard is without the insulation the gas boils creating bubbles in the line.

TMCNo1
03-25-2007, 01:03 PM
Coating the fuel line with aluminum foil and maybe a couple or 3 wooden clothes pins. The aluminum foil will/can block radiant heat from the fuel line and the cloths pins act like heat sinks to remove heat from the fuel line causing vapor lock. Worked like a charm on a 350 PCM I once had.

cstark22
03-25-2007, 06:29 PM
thanks i will try it out and report back.

LakePirate
03-26-2007, 08:02 PM
What is the make and model is the carb?

Doug G
03-26-2007, 08:08 PM
Coating the fuel line with aluminum foil and maybe a couple or 3 wooden clothes pins. The aluminum foil will/can block radiant heat from the fuel line and the cloths pins act like heat sinks to remove heat from the fuel line causing vapor lock. Worked like a charm on a 350 PCM I once had.

The aluminum foil will also help keep the aliens from reading your thoughts or brainwashing you about teak maintenance. The clothes pins can double as nose plugs to avoid drain bramage from teak oil fumes.

Sorry threadjack over .

cstark22
03-26-2007, 10:16 PM
just put a new holley on , same issue. no change.......nice pic, good lookin 190;

LakePirate
03-26-2007, 10:20 PM
What model Holley? 4110 or 4160?

The 4110 has a documented hot stall problem.

jimmer2880
03-27-2007, 05:32 AM
Does anyone else think the problem may be in the distributor?

Does this boat still have points? If so, it would pay you to spend the $100.00 & switch over to electronic ignition.

Bruce Carr
03-27-2007, 08:02 AM
Ignition was my first thought as well. Still using points?

viabill
03-28-2007, 03:28 PM
Sounds like ignition to me, too. I would suspect the wiring and/or ballast resistor. The old points distributors get a direct 12V connection while they are cranking, then switch to running through the resistor once they are running. If the ignition switch, the wiring to the resistor or the resistor itself is bad, you can see the problem you're describing.

If you don't mind investing some money in that boat, MSD makes a marine-grade drop-in distributor that totally eliminates the starting/idling problems associated with these engines. I put one in my '89 Barefoot 190 with the 454/425hp last year and it runs great.

cstark22
03-30-2007, 01:22 PM
thanks thats a great area to look, i been working my way thru the fuel system but i will try the resistor, maybe new cap and points as well for the new season. I have the MSD sitting on the shelf.
I was playing around with it sunday and will throw this out as another quirk, which is if i am quick enough to throw it in gear during the start (that 1 second running turnover) it works and runs fine in gear, but i leave it in neutral it just dies.

viabill
04-05-2007, 03:05 PM
cstark...
This new info sheds some different light on your problem. Since it keeps running if you quickly put it in gear, that means that is could be the carb or ignition.

I don't know what your experience is with carbs, or if you made any adjustments when you installed the new carb, but here's a possible resolution.

If, when you "keep it running" by putting it in gear, you are moving the throttle enough to engage forward gear AND applying some throttle (as in opening the carb butterflys a bit), then the problem could be as simple as a rich or lean condition at idle, or simply too low of an idle speed setting. The way to check for this is to disconnect the throttle from the carb, hold it open a bit by hand while someone turns the key to start. If you are able to keep it running by manipulating the throttle by hand WHILE IT IS IN NEUTRAL, then the problem should be fixable with carb adjustment.

If it just dies no matter what you do with the carb throttle IN NEUTRAL, then we' re back to an ignition issue. If this is the case, the first thing you need to check is the voltage supply to the coil as you crank it release the key to the Run position. Use a volt meter with the negative lead connected to a good ground on the engine, and the positive lead connected to the + terminal on the coil. With your normal points ignition, you should have 10 to 12 volts while cranking the engine, and at least 6 or 8 volts after you release the key. If the voltage drops to zero whe you release th ekey to the Run position, you have a wiring problem or a problem with the ignition switch or a safety switch. You would need to get a wiring diagram, available as a download from the MC site, and trace the problem with your voltmeter.

If you have tried some of these things, respond with your results and we can go from there.

LakePirate
04-05-2007, 08:15 PM
thanks thats a great area to look, i been working my way thru the fuel system but i will try the resistor, maybe new cap and points as well for the new season. I have the MSD sitting on the shelf.
I was playing around with it sunday and will throw this out as another quirk, which is if i am quick enough to throw it in gear during the start (that 1 second running turnover) it works and runs fine in gear, but i leave it in neutral it just dies.


Dude do not put points back on that boat.

Get the Electronic Ignition from Ski Dim and be on your merry way.

Click Here (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP173072)

wesgardner
04-06-2007, 11:06 AM
If you're having ignition problems try this...I replaced my Mallory distributor this year as it broke/corroded...I had previously changed out the points with a Pertronix unit and coil

http://www.performancedistributors.com/marinedui.htm

This new distributor allows you to open the spark plug gap for a hotter burn...

My carb is a dual pump 4150 I rebuilt, I tie my electric choke open as I don't need it - a couple of pumps on the throttle, and it pops right off, once warmed up, it pops right off with no throttle pump just leave it in neutral and off it goes...I think once warmed up, if you pump on the throttle, you'll flood the carb...

Furthermore, I 've replaced ALL my ignition/starting wiring with 10 GA. - the new distributor eliminates a separate coil and the ballast resistor - fewer things - I like that...my boat used to eat starter solenoids - no longer...

Eventually you'll get it squared away...tell us what carb you have, there are a couple of folks here with ALOT of experience in 4160's as well as the not-so-well-liked 4110