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View Full Version : '06 X-Star: Can't pull prop past rudder


JohnW
03-21-2007, 03:15 AM
I almost have the prop off, but the center hub part is catching on the rudder before I can can completely slip it off the shaft. Is there a trick that I don't know? Do I need to remove the rudder? Is the shaft extended out too far?

Maristar210
03-21-2007, 10:04 AM
There is no trick that I know of other than have the steering cocked all the way to one side. It's a finger pincher for sure but it'll clear.

Got a pic?

ecelis
03-21-2007, 12:03 PM
The only way is to remove the engine mounting bolts so you can shift the engine, transmission and shaft to the front. Half an inch is enough.

;)

Or... you move the rudder to one side and try to slide it off. You also have to turn the prop just right, so that the blades don't hit the top of the prop. If it does not work turn the rudder to the other side.
I have done it 20 times on a 06 X-Star when I was trying out different props. I did not even have to use a puller.

PaulW
03-21-2007, 12:14 PM
Ecelis
Which prop did you find that worked the best for you on the X-Star?

djhuff
03-21-2007, 12:46 PM
Yeah, you have to kind of spin the prop into the rudder. I thought I was doing it wrong as well but once you figure it out, it's really easy.

Ole Miss Rebels
03-21-2007, 02:27 PM
on my 2005 xstar i had to disconnect the steering cable from the tiller arm and turn the rudder perpendicular to the drive shaft. i originally had an 05 (stock) rudder on my boat but i put the 2006 rudder on and it is shifted more forward and there is no way i could remove the original 05 prop or put on the xmp edge 14.25 x 14.5 prop without disconnecting the steering cable and rotating the rudder manually, and even then i had to try a lot of different angles (about 20 minutes to finally get the new prop on.) maybe on the o5 and o6 hulls the rudders are not in the exact same location. does anyone know if the 06 hull has the rudder mounting hole in a different spot then the 05 hull?

Jerseydave
03-21-2007, 08:03 PM
I think turning the rudder slightly may give you enough room. Try a few different rudder angles. If all else fails, disconnect the steering cable and turn the rudder 90 degrees, as someone said above. NEVER try to move the engine/trans. forward to gain clearance....this will really mess-up your engine alignment.

JohnW
03-22-2007, 05:00 AM
ecelis,
It looks like I have the exact same boat as you. I have worked spinning the prop and flipping the rudder around but it still hits. It may be as close as a 1/4 inch from clearing. I think I will try the suggestion of disconnecting the steering cable tomorrow to see if the rudder will move enough additional for the prop to clear. There must be some variability in the props they are using or how far the drive shaft extends from the hull. I'm suprised MC doesn't have any info posted on this problem.

My other big beef with MC is the pinched brake cable in the folding trailer tongue. It's bad design and I wasn't warned to be extra careful when folding the tongue back out. When I pulled out, the boat seemed heavy but I thought that I might have forget to empty some ballast water. I had the brakes smoking along the side of the highway before I figured it out. At first I thought the brake actuator must have stuck. After a couple of calls to me dealer I finally got it solved. This is bad design and looks like it could lead to a lot of problems.

Jerseydave
03-22-2007, 09:18 PM
There's a brake cable inside the hitch? I've never folded mine or looked inside, what's the cable for if they're hydraulic brakes?

TMCNo1
03-22-2007, 09:34 PM
There's a brake cable inside the hitch? I've never folded mine or looked inside, what's the cable for if they're hydraulic brakes?
The breakaway cable is there to engage the mastercylinder, lock it and apply the brakes in case the hitch comes off or loose from the ball. The cable is suppose to attach to something on the hitch/bumper/frame other than the ball mount on the tow vehicle. I don't see a reason for the cable to be back into the area of the folding tongue hinge, as it should be hanging out near where the trailer tongue goes on the ball.

TMCNo1
03-22-2007, 09:41 PM
My other big beef with MC is the pinched brake cable in the folding trailer tongue. It's bad design and I wasn't warned to be extra careful when folding the tongue back out. When I pulled out, the boat seemed heavy but I thought that I might have forget to empty some ballast water. I had the brakes smoking along the side of the highway before I figured it out. At first I thought the brake actuator must have stuck. After a couple of calls to me dealer I finally got it solved. This is bad design and looks like it could lead to a lot of problems.


Are you refering to the black rubber flexible brake line or the emergency breakaway cable with the "S" hook on the end. The black rubber flexible brake line and the trailer light wiring is the only thing that should be passing through those tubes at the folding joint.
Can you post some pics?

Maristar210
03-22-2007, 09:47 PM
ecelis,
It looks like I have the exact same boat as you. I have worked spinning the prop and flipping the rudder around but it still hits. It may be as close as a 1/4 inch from clearing. I think I will try the suggestion of disconnecting the steering cable tomorrow to see if the rudder will move enough additional for the prop to clear. There must be some variability in the props they are using or how far the drive shaft extends from the hull. I'm suprised MC doesn't have any info posted on this problem.

My other big beef with MC is the pinched brake cable in the folding trailer tongue. It's bad design and I wasn't warned to be extra careful when folding the tongue back out. When I pulled out, the boat seemed heavy but I thought that I might have forget to empty some ballast water. I had the brakes smoking along the side of the highway before I figured it out. At first I thought the brake actuator must have stuck. After a couple of calls to me dealer I finally got it solved. This is bad design and looks like it could lead to a lot of problems.


I am sorry but there are wires that have to go somewhere. This is common sense. Blaming MC because because you are unfamiliar with the trailer holds no water. If it took you until you got on the highway to figure it out perhaps you should get yourself more familiar with your equipment. Have you read, and do you understand the owners manual?

Flame if you choose but look inside first before lashing out at a great boat company. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

JohnW
03-22-2007, 11:40 PM
I believe that the hose that threads through the tongue is part of the surge brake system. It feeds brake fluid from the master cylinder back to the brakes. I think when you pinch it in the pivoting tongue, it puts enough pressure on the lines to activate the brakes. I suppose that you are also at risk of puncturing the hose and losing your brakes.

I just downloaded the MC trailer manual and it doesn't address the pivoting tongue at all. Seems like a big oversight.

ecelis
03-23-2007, 10:44 AM
Very strange that there would be a prop that is not easily removable. Sounds like a design flaw to me...
The prop I'm using is a 14.5 X 14.25 4-blade OJ prop (1285). Also says .120 cup on the box.
This is to get an (over)loaded X-star on a plane with the MCX motor. Standard ballast + 2100lbs Fly-High system + 300lbs of lead + couple of people.

ecelis
03-23-2007, 10:45 AM
BTW, this prop setup is NO good if you also want to use the boat for cruising. It runs too high rpm for cruising.

Jerseydave
07-31-2007, 09:15 PM
Okay, my prop would NOT clear the rudder either.

My X-star is an '05. I had replaced the old-style rudder back in march with the new-style rudder AFTER replacing my stock prop with the ACME 3-blade 13.5 X 15.5.

I wanted to put my stock prop back on since we won't be running any extra ballast this month and will be doing alot of lake cruising.

Between the extra rudder material and the large blades of the 3-blade prop, I had to totally remove the rudder to replace the prop. I even tried removing the steering cable to turn the rudder 90 degrees and no dice!

So some of you may have to remove your rudder to do a prop swap. At least I'm getting good at rudder removal. :)

JohnW
08-01-2007, 04:37 AM
Update: I have finally figured out how to finesse the prop on and off. You have to tilt it at just the right angle and have the rudder centered between blades. It just barely works and takes me a few minutes to figure it out everytime I need to replace the prop. Good Luck!

JohnW
08-01-2007, 04:50 AM
I am sorry but there are wires that have to go somewhere. This is common sense. Blaming MC because because you are unfamiliar with the trailer holds no water. If it took you until you got on the highway to figure it out perhaps you should get yourself more familiar with your equipment. Have you read, and do you understand the owners manual?

Flame if you choose but look inside first before lashing out at a great boat company. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

I love our X-Star, don't get me wrong. The problem is everytime you pivot the tongue and then extend it back to operating position, you need to carefully push the extra tubing length (necessary to bend the tongue to the side) away from the edge where it closes. On my boat, I have to push it with my finger out of the way and then pull my finger out right as it closes. If I don't do this, it pinches the hydrallic tube almost every time and partially actuates the brakes.

I will restate MY opinion that this is a design flaw. The pivoting tongue is designed for regular, repeated use. The fact that a user risks major mechanical problems if the the tongue happens to pinch the tube when used as directed makes this a design problem. And not documenting it anywhere or sending notices to owners seems to be a big oversight on MC's part.

just my 2 cents.

JohnW
08-01-2007, 04:55 AM
Are you refering to the black rubber flexible brake line or the emergency breakaway cable with the "S" hook on the end. The black rubber flexible brake line and the trailer light wiring is the only thing that should be passing through those tubes at the folding joint.
Can you post some pics?
Yes, it's the black flexible rubber line that gets pinched when closing the pivoting tongue. I think it's a hydraulic line and the pinching puts pressure on the line and partially actuates the brakes. I may be wrong on exactly how this works.

Sorry about the slow replies. i didn't get notification that I had replies on this forum.

Jerseydave
08-01-2007, 10:03 PM
John, you may want to have someone replace your rubber brake hose in the tongue with a braided one. I'm not sure where you would find one or how long it will hold up either (rust).

I would think repeated folding of the tongue and bending of the hose will shorten its life. It may just be something that will need annual attention. (???)

erkoehler
08-01-2007, 10:57 PM
If you can't remove the prop without disassembling other parts, there is an issue. You may have a bent shaft or strut, have you had that checked?