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chevy08bud
03-15-2007, 05:38 PM
The teak platform on my 205 was polyurethaned by the previous owner and it is peeling and I don't like the way that it looks. I am planning on following the procedure outlined throughout this site to bring the teak back to its original luster. The questions that I have though are should I find something to chemically strip the poly off with or should I just sand all of the poly off? I would like to say that stripping would be easier, but don't want to hurt the wood. (Wow, that whole last sentence really reads bad if you take it out of context. Oh well!):D The other question is that some of the screws are rusting on the bottom side of the teak and I would possibly like to replace them, maybe with SS screws. Don't know if anyone has encountered either of these problems, but as always, your input is much appreciated.

G-man
03-15-2007, 05:44 PM
Sand - sand -and sand some more, it won't be an easy project but should be worth it in the end. A good excuse to get the power sander you always wanted. You may want to wait till next winter unless you have a lot of time on your hands

TMCNo1
03-15-2007, 05:53 PM
The teak platform on my 205 was polyurethaned by the previous owner and it is peeling and I don't like the way that it looks. I am planning on following the procedure outlined throughout this site to bring the teak back to its original luster. The questions that I have though are should I find something to chemically strip the poly off with or should I just sand all of the poly off? I would like to say that stripping would be easier, but don't want to hurt the wood. (Wow, that whole last sentence really reads bad if you take it out of context. Oh well!):D The other question is that some of the screws are rusting on the bottom side of the teak and I would possibly like to replace them, maybe with SS screws. Don't know if anyone has encountered either of these problems, but as always, your input is much appreciated.

You should IMO chemically strip it yourself or check with some local furniture refinishers that may have contacts with someone in your area that has a stripping business. They put the platform in a vat of chemicals (acid dip) and take it out about 1/2 hour later and it's raw undamaged wood and they even wash it before returning it to you to remove the residual chemicals. Remove all the rusted screws ASAP and replace with S/S.

G-man
03-15-2007, 06:28 PM
I llike TMC#1 idea if you have access to a place like that

TMCNo1
03-15-2007, 06:41 PM
I llike TMC#1 idea if you have access to a place like that
Check your phone yellow pages for "Furniture Refinishing" or "Furniture Strippers" etc.

chevy08bud
03-15-2007, 06:54 PM
Thanks for the tips TMC#1 and G-Man, you are always helpful. I'll check and see if we have anyone around here that does that type of thing and see how much it will cost. I'll post before and after pics on here when I get it done. Love the way that good teak looks on an MC.

TMCNo1
03-15-2007, 07:28 PM
Thanks for the tips TMC#1 and G-Man, you are always helpful. I'll check and see if we have anyone around here that does that type of thing and see how much it will cost. I'll post before and after pics on here when I get it done. Love the way that good teak looks on an MC.


Anytime, if I can be of any more help, just let me know!

chevy08bud
03-20-2007, 01:26 PM
I have stripped, acetoned, and rough-sanded the platform, and it looks 500% better. I still have not posted pics, but will post them when I get a chance. The question that I now have, is that one of the local boat dealers around here doesn't carry the white bottle of Star brite Teak Oil/Sealer. The only one that they carry is the Star brite Premium Gold Teak Oil. I am wondering if this is just as good or better or worse than the white bottle. Again, any light shead on this would be much appreciated. I'm planning on picking it up tonight on the way home if it will work.

TMCNo1
03-20-2007, 02:10 PM
I have stripped, acetoned, and rough-sanded the platform, and it looks 500% better. I still have not posted pics, but will post them when I get a chance. The question that I now have, is that one of the local boat dealers around here doesn't carry the white bottle of Star brite Teak Oil/Sealer. The only one that they carry is the Star brite Premium Gold Teak Oil. I am wondering if this is just as good or better or worse than the white bottle. Again, any light shead on this would be much appreciated. I'm planning on picking it up tonight on the way home if it will work.

I have used it in the past and gave it to someone. It is essentially the same as the regular Starbrite Teak Oil and more $, but when it dried on my platform it had a satin finish to it rather than the gloss I wanted. It also dried at a much slower rate. The people who have the premium oil, should be able to order the white bottle for you. They had to get it somewhere, besides they have catalogues to look through too. Any catalogue marine supply has Starbrite and you should be able to get it in a couple days via UPS/FedEx, like Overtons, West Marine, Boaters World, etc.
Before you apply any teak oil, wet block sand it and dry block sand it a couple times first with 600 sandpaper. That will give it a real velvety finish to start with. Apply oil to the joints and slats with a brush, but finish applying elsewhere with your hand, so you won't apply too much at a time.

rlaing
03-25-2007, 03:23 AM
Does anyone have experience using the STARBRITE teak cleaner? I have a 98 X-star, and I do not think the previous owner did any work on the swimgrid, hense, it is looking dark. I know there is such a product. Any advice? I already have the Starbrite teak oil and plan to follow your recommendations for that. Thanks :)

TMCNo1
03-25-2007, 09:16 AM
Does anyone have experience using the STARBRITE teak cleaner? I have a 98 X-star, and I do not think the previous owner did any work on the swimgrid, hense, it is looking dark. I know there is such a product. Any advice? I already have the Starbrite teak oil and plan to follow your recommendations for that. Thanks :)


The cleaner will work fine along with the Brightner, but from my experience, Tilex, Dawn, a medium stiff scrub brush will accomplish the same end result in cleaning and brightening the teak. All you are doing is removing the top of the water gunk, exhaust film, mold, mildew and then by sanding you are removing dead/dry wood fibers down to the good naturally oily wood.

JohnnyB
03-25-2007, 10:46 AM
I have used the 3-step process sold by star-bright....cleaner, brightener, oil.

However, if you read the teak refurbishing threads on this site, you should sand between the brightener and the oil. Use the cleaner and brightener as directed. Then let the whole thing dry real well. Sand with progressively finer grits of paper, clean off the dust and then oil.

It'll come out looking like a piece of fine furniture. Caution, I have found that very finely sanded and oiled teak is slippery and tend to stop at a higher grit than others on Team Talk.